From Boston to Bareilly and back

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From Boston to Bareilly

AND BACK.

BY

WILLIAM BUTLER.

''^Earth's fairest recblms in clearest Teen
Stretched out to the amplest reach of prospect lay;
Q!he eye might there command wherever stood
City of old, or modern fame, the seat
Of mightiest empire from the destined walls
Of Camhalu, seat of Cathaian Khan,
;find Samarcand hy Oxus, QHmur's throne,
Co (PeTcin of Bincean Kings, and thence
Q^o :^gra and Lahor of great Jloghul,
Qown to the golden Chersonese."

Milton's PaR4.di8k Lost, Book XI.

New York :

PHILLIPS & HUNT.

Cincinnati :

CRANSTON & STOWE,

1886.

c/

Copyright, 1885, by

PHILLIPS & HUNT,

New York.

THIS BOOK

TO THE HON. JACOB SLEEPER,
"CHAPLAIN" C. C. McCABE, D.D.,

AND TO THOSE OTHER KIND FRIENDS WHO UNITED WITH THEM IN FURNISHING

THE MEANS WHICH CONFERRED UPON THE WRITER, HIS WIFE, AND

DAUGHTER THE PECULIAR AND EVER-TO-BE-REMEMBERED

PRIVILEGE WHICH THE FOLLOWING PAGES

ATTEMPT TO DESCRIBE, BY

THE AUTHOR.

Boston^ 1885.

M347001

PREFACE

THIS work owes its origin to the kind suggestion
of the Eev. J. H. Vincent, D.D. It has been
my effort, in its preparation, to keep close to the
ideal wliich he presented as to what should be its
character and aim. I found it impracticable to finish
the work at an earlier date, chiefly on account of the
statistics ; but I feel satisfied that the reader will not
regret the delay, when he comes to consider the
value of the figures presented ; a large portion of
which had to be referred to India for more careful
verification. The privilege conferred upon the
writer of this book was unique. After tlie expiration
of twenty-sevren years, those who sent him forth in
1856, on the duty of founding a mission for their
Church, concluded, in their generosity, to send him
again, that he might witness its development, and
rejoice over "what God had wrought" during the
interval in the field which he had selected, and along
the lines of labor w^hich he then laid out for his
associates and successors.

Few founders of missions have been thus favored
as to time and circumstance and the opportunity
for reviewing their work. Perhaps not one among

6 Pkeface.

them has been so peculiarly privileged, in view of
the extraordinary circumstances w^hich attended the
origin of our mission in the great Gangetic Valley.

The reader will excuse the occasional references
which I had to make to my other work, The Land
of the Veday as this book is, in a sense, the sequel
of that work. The Zand of the Veda shows " what
entering in" we had, and the immense resistance
which Almighty God overcame in order to open
the way for the Gospel which we had to plant
there for him. This book shows the results wliicli
have been accomplished, and enables the Cliurch
to understand what is the outcome and answer to
lier liberality and prayers, and thus gives the
facts by which she can contrast the fearful condi-
tion of her mission field in India in 1856 with the
blessed changes and results which it exhibits in 1884.

It has been said that " truth is stranger than
fiction." Of the assertion this book will furnish
many illustrations. As a participator and eye-witness
of most of the events described, it is a duty that I
should not leave them unrecorded, and especially
w^hen I have been so highly favored as to revisit the
scenes where they occurred, and review and rejoice
over those victories for Christ and Christian civiliza-
tion which the record of the first quarter of a cent-
ury presents to the Church.

William Butlek.

88 Bhomfield Street, Boston, Mass.

FROM BOSTON TO BAREILLY.

CHAPTEE I.

" And some days after, Paul said unto Barnabas, Let us go again
and visit our brethren in every city where we have preached the
word of the Lord, and see how they do. . . . And [they] departed,
being recommended by the brethren unto the grace of God." Acts
XV, 36, 40.

Boston, AjjtU 5, 1883. — In the record of the pro-
ceedings of the Kew England Annual Conference,
held on this date in Bromfield Street Church, there
occurs the following passage :

When the name of Dr. William Butler was called, the pre-
siding elder presented the following resolution, which was^
unanimously adopted by a rising vote:

Resolved, That this Conference has heard witli deep grati-
tude of the intended visit of our brother, Dr. William Butler,
and his devoted wife, to our missions in India, tlie scene
where, under God, by labors, sacrifices, and devotion of the
most truly apostolic type, they became the honored foun^Jers
of that, among the largest and most prosperous of our Church
missions. We rejoice that God has raised up to them frien«l8
wlio have so liberally contributed to enable them to enjoy
this privilege; and we bid them the most hearty Godspeed,
and assure them of our earnest prayers for their health and
success in their undertaking and a safe return again to Ui.

8 From Boston to Baeeilly.

On this action tlie editor of Zionh Herald was kind
enough to remark :

One of the most interesting events of the present session of
the New England Conference was the passage of the fraternal
resolution in reference to the visit of Dr. and Mrs. William
Butler to India during the coming year, and the responses
made by them. We have rarely seen the Conference more
moved than it was by the address of Dr. Butler, in which he
referred to the remarkable religious progress since he entered
alone the field of his mission in Northern India, and espe-
cially to his providential eecape in the Sepoy rebellion, and
his witnessing of the sentence and execution of the great
leader of it. Tears and subdued shouts bore witness to tlie
deep emotions awakened by the magnetic power and elo-
quence of the doctor's reminiscences.

Amid that blessed scene how easy it was for the mind
to rush back to the same !New England Conference,
when, on the morning of April 8, 1856, Bishop Janes
presiding, I stood before that body to take my fare-
well, and they listened and gazed upon me with tear-
ful eyes, as I was abont to go forth in their name to
found a mission in the far East, but with no definite
idea where it would be located, and with none there
then to bid us welcome ! But ere we say more about
that occasion, let us follow the present events, until
they lead us back, as they surely will, by a w^onderful
line of providences, to that remarkable hour, twenty-
seven years ago, in the city of Salem. The present
first demands our attention.

The Boston Methodist Preachers' Meeting passed
resolutions as cordial as those of the Conference here

From Boston to Bareilly. 9

given, and had even appointed their presiding offi-
cer and two of their number to attend the farewell
meeting in New York, and then see ns off from that
port on tlie following morning. With similar kind-
ness the ISTew York Preachers' Meeting took action,
appointed a committee of their number, with Dr.
Curry as chairman, and arranged for two meetings,
one in St. Paul's, IS'ew York, and another in Sum-
merfield Church, Brooklyn, as well as for the farewell
meeting in Washington Square Church on the even-
ing before we were to sail. This latter service w^as
the crowning occasion of all. Bishop Harris pre-
sided, and Drs. Keid and Fowler, the Missionary Sec-
retaries, addressed tlie crowded audience, and con-
gratulated "The Father and Mother of the Indian
Mission," who were thus so munificently privileged
to go forth to visit the scene of their former labors,
attended by the sympathy and blessings of the whole
Church. The singing was inspiring, especially the
new hymn, " The Church's Rallying Song," printed
for the occasion and distributed among the audience.
It was delightful to see the gifted authoress of the
hymn, Fanny Crosby, herself in the congregation,
her face aglow and her sightless eyeballs rolling with
enthusiasm, as she sang, with the rest, her own grand
words ; while J. E. Sweeney, the composer of the
music, presided at the organ, and did justice to his
own composition. Then Chaplain M'Cabe, sustained
by W. J. Kirkpatrick, led that wonderful outburst

10 Feom Boston to Baeeilly.

of glorious song, in whicli a tliousand voices united !
Perhaps heaven does not often hear from earth a
more enthusiastic paean of Christian joj.

It certainly ought to have inspired me when my
turn came to speak to such an audience, and under
such circumstances. But, though so v^ell used to
address public assemblies, and especially on the topic
of Christian missions, I found myself so over-
mastered by my emotions that I began to hope
I should not be required to say any thing upon tlie
occasion. 1 felt like one dazed, and wondering
whether all this honor and these words of eulogy
were not spoken of some one else than myself.
But I was called, and had to address the audience ;
my feelings overpowered me, and I realized how
weak I was, and how unworthy of this commenda-
tion. Beyond all former experience, I estimated how
appropriate and safe was humility, and had a con-
sciousness that the joy of heaven, and the words of
approval from the lips of even the blessed Master
himself, can best coexist with the most profound self-
renunciation, and the entire and hearty ascriptions of
all the honor and glory of whatever good is done to
Him to whom alone the praise is due. "He that
glorieth, let him glory in the Lord." Yet I could not
but feel what compensation was here for the long and
anxious responsibilities which I had tried conscien-
tiously to bear for my Church and my God in that
far-off land to which we were returning, and how on

From Boston to Bar kill y. 11

this glad occasion I was so amply repaid. We had
then to take our stand in the altar, and for nearly an
hour wife and daughter and myself had such a hand-
shaking as we never knew before : and still the people
lingered, and many a tearful " Good-bye " and " God
bless you ! " were spoken.

Next day. May 5, 1883, a large concourse of these
sympathizing friends assembled at the *' Anchor Line "
pier, where the steamer Devonia lay ready for depart-
ure. They soon tilled the saloon. Brother Cooper,
on behalf of the Boston Preachers' Meeting, and
Chaplain M'Cabe gave the farewell words, the warn-
ing wliistle sounded, and our friends passed to the
wharf and remained there to see us off. Even then
their wonderful kindness had not ended, for they held
an informal consultation and agreed that if we wished
to return home from India by China and Japan, they
would furnish the additional funds to enable us to do
so. Our beloved Brother M'Cabe (who, under God,
originated this delightful trip for us) came, on their be-
half, to the side of the ship, made the additional offer,
and urged its acceptance. I promised to give it care-
ful and grateful consideration during the voyage.
But, while fully appreciating the interest and joy it
would be sure to yield us, and especially to see our
missions in China and Japan, we felt that we ought
not to allow these kind friends to go to further ex-
pense on our account, especially as the great privilege
already conferred in this visit to our own mission

12 From Boston to Bakeilly.

field was in itself an enjoyment so complete and sat-
isfactory.

A few minutes after three o'clock P. M. the last
cable was let go, and the great ship moved into the
river, and turned her head to her course. But as
long as we could see that wharf, we could discern the
waving handkerchiefs which signaled the loving
benedictions of our noble friends. Thank God for
true Christianity ! Nothing else could create and
consummate the privilege and the joy of such an
hour as this. How fervently we prayed that night,
in our sea-home, that God might remember every
one, from first to last, who had united and sympa-
thized in conferring upon us this great privilege and
joy ! Surely if an_y thing could make an old mis-
sionary superintendent feel young again, to be the
center of a scene like this ought to do it. But the
joy was deepened w^hen I reflected upon the fact that
was underlying it all, and that fact was, how much
the Church must value her mission in India when
she can thus so magnanimously treat the humble
founders of that work ! We had no other claim
to her consideration, and she was generous enougli
to consider this sufiicient. But the reader will kind-
ly excuse all this talk about ourselves. "We will pro-
ceed to speak of the voyage, and one or two of its
incidents.

We had about eighty saloon passengers, mostly
quiet people. There was very little drinking or loose

Fkom Boston to Bareilly. 13

language. We had no storms certainly, and tlie offi-
cers said the " weather was fine," though there were
many of our number, among the ladies especially, wlio
concluded that these sea-faring people had a defini-
tion of their own for the word " fine." When one
' goes on board an immense ship of this class, 4,279 tons
burden, he cannot at first realize that any power less
than a storm can make her heave up her great form
and roll about as if she were a mere whale-boat. The
reflecting mind will naturally turn in such circum-
stances to Him, the Almighty One, who has con-
ferred this wondrous force upon these elements,
whose play around you is so amazing, and gather
comfort from the thought that there is more than
power here. There is control and guidance of these
forces by Him who "rides on the whirlwind and
directs the storm." This justifies the prayer with
which the anxious heart invokes his blessed protec-
tion from the raging violence around, and the con-
■fident expectation of being brought in safety to "the
desired haven."

On the fourth day out we were crossing "the
Banks," where the cod-fishing is carried on — a wild
and exposed occupation, prosecuted amid perils of its
own by our hardy " toilers of the sea." The locality
where we were now floating naturally suggested to
the memory those queer lines which were found about
two hundred years ago in the psalmody of the times :
lines which, in these days of sweeter songs and

14 From Boston to Bareilly.

perhaps of sweeter singers, make one wonder tliat such
doggerel ever could have been tolerated for an hour
by Christian people. The poet w^ho perpetrated this
amazing versification must have been at a great loss
for illustration, if not for sense, w4ien he allowed his
imagination to lead him to " evolve from the depths
of his inner consciousness " the following whimsical
specimen of hymnology :

" Ye monsters of the briny deep,

Your Maker's praises spout ;
Up from your sands, ye codlings, peep —

Aud wag your tails about 1 "

The remembrance of these queer lines was enough
to make a man laugh, even though he were sea-
sick. The laugh might have been longer and more
relieving, too, as we lay there and held on, but for
the untimely interference of the Devonia herself.
For just here she had begun to act as though resolved
to draw our attention from those codfish and that
poetry to the contemplation of her own performances,
with that great " tail " of hers, which, as it rose and
fell, and went round and round, and " wagged " from
side to side, showed how it could thrill and stir you
up, until all your poetry was gone, and several other
things along with it, and you had to conclude that the
situation was not friendly to merriment, and all the
more because this specimen of her ability to " wag
her tail about " became more lively in its manifesta-
tions, and was pertinaciouslj^ persisted in, as if to show

From Boston to Bareilly. 15

how tliorouglilj it could be done, and what pleasure
she took in doing it ! Still, in spite of her, we did
have our little laugh, and concluded therefrom what
a good tonic in sea-sickness a hearty laugh must be,
and especially if you can have a few of them quickly
after each other. On reaching the shore, and falling
in with an old antiquarian friend of mine, I inquired
if he knew where the quotation before mentioned
could be found. He promptly informed me that a
copy of the book was in the library of Trinity Col-
lege, Dublin, and offered to aid me in obtaining a
sight of it. I did not need his assurance that the
quotation, though in a version of the Psalms, had no
authorization from the sacred Hebrew. Of course
not. God's holy Book never violates good taste or
utters any thing preposterous, nor should it be held
responsible for the human errors which some of its
expositors, poets, and painters have committed. I
did not accept my friend's assistance in searching for
the book.

Our careful captain had chosen a southerly course
to avoid meeting with icebergs, and until the fifth
day, when in latitude 42° 23' and longitude 51° 03',
we did not sight any. But early that morning one
was passed, and three more before, midday, all of
them, however, away to the north and quite a distance
from us. But about three o'clock in the afternoon
one was discerned right on our course. The after-
noon was fine, sea-sickness was forgotten, and all

16 Fbom Boston to Bareilly.

crowded on deck to see that great sight. Every eye
was soon fixed upon it, though we required more
than an hour aud a lialf to come abreast of it. It was,
to the passengers at least, an awful sight, and we
shuddered at the thought of our great ship rushing
on to collision with such an object in the darkness of
the night. Here was explanation enough why some
vessels have never been heard of after leaving port.
This berg seemed almost a cube in shape. We dis-
cussed its dimensions and sought information from
the officers. It was generally agreed that it was
about four hundred feet long on the sides and per-
haps over one hundred feet high! Though I had
crossed the Atlantic six times, I never before liad an
opportunity of seeing an iceberg, and now, to see one
so large and so near, was quite an event. The afternoon
sun was shining upon the tall side, and made it look
as brilliant in its majesty as it was terrible. To crash
into that cold mass would be as sure destruction as to
strike any precipice that overhangs tlie sea, with the
additional horror that there might not be the most
distant chance of help or escape, and that the sur-
rounding waters, which would engulf the unhappy pas-
sengers, in their intensity of cold would freeze them
to death in a few moments. Although we were so far
away, the increasing cold which emanated from it in
the air and in the sea, changed all the conditions
around us. Our ship was kept not less than a mile
and a quarter south of it, and our careful officers had

Fkom Boston to Bareilly. 17

been all day testing the water and the air every half-
hour. By such process they are able, in the darkness
of the night, to discover the nearness of such a danger,
and so may decide upon requisite precautions. Half
an hour before we came abreast of this berg the water
was found to register 54°, while abreast of it the
mercury had fallen to 38° and the air had become
nearly 10° colder than it was half an hour previous.
Half an hour after passing (say six miles) the con-
ditions corresponded with what they were one hour
before. Such was the chill created on tlie outer rim
of a circle that was two and a half miles in diameter.
$he reader can imagine how the thermometer would
register half a mile or a full mile nearer, and what it
would likely be by its side.

AYe also had discussions as to what proportion of
this mountain of ice must have been below the snr-
face, in order to sustain the Inige dimensions w^hich
towered up above the water. The displacement
seemed to us almost incredible. Although the com-
position of the berg is said to include great masses of
compacted snow, the specific gravity of which is not
equal to the rest, and that the whole mass is not,
therefore, as hard and consistent as the ice blocks with
which we cool our summer beverages ; yet, after mak-
ing all allowance for this, let any one contemplate a
piece of ice as it floats in his tumbler of water, and
lie may gain some adequate idea of the colossal pro-
portions of this mountain of subrperged ice, wliich

18 Fkom Boston to Bakeilly.

could float and sustain to one Inmdred feet above tlie
water this fearful object, which for three hours we
watched with such intense interest. It was generally
agreed that at least seven eighths of the whole mass
must have been under the surface. If this calcula-
tion be correct, then this mountain of ice must have
been eight hundred feet high from bottom to top !
It impressed us as having such power of resistance to
the sun that it would require years of time to melt it
down, especially as the reserve below would come to
the surface as fast as the top portion melted away.
And so, pei'haps, it would, were it not for the pro-
vision made by the Almighty to have the warm soutli^
wind concur with the gulf stream to act on the enor-
jnous mass. How long this one had been floating
around, or where it came from, who can tell ! But,
what a sight it must have been when it first let go
its fastenings within the Arctic regions, and tore its
thundering way down those eternal hills of ice and
dashed into the deep and astonished ocean !

Yet this enormous mass was only one of those
" morsels " from his " treasuries," to which the Lord
God Almighty referred when he showed Job his ut-
ter insignificance, by asking him, " Where wast thou
when I laid the foundations of the earth? declare,
if thou hast understanding. . Hast thou entered into
the treasures of the snow ? or hast thou seen the
treasures of the hail ? Out of whose womb came the
ice ? and the hoary frost of heaven, who hath gendered

From Boston to Bareilly. 19

it?" Job xxxviii, 4, 22, 29. Or again, in David,
" lie casteth forth his ice like morsels : who can stand
before his cold ? He sendeth out his word, and melt-
eth them : he causeth his wind to blow, and the waters
flow." Psa. cxlrii, 17, 18. A Christia,n has a clear
right here to draw attention to the fact, that his Holy
Scriptures shine out with an original and permanent
light and knowledge, unshared and unapproached by
any, even the most ancient of human compositions.
The Yedas, for instance, of the land to which we were
going, tliough the most venerable of them all, has no
wide sweep of vision to include such facts. They are
local and limited in their allusions, and even their ad-
mirers have to admit their monotony, and their worth-
lessness to mankind. Brought into contact with these
great facts of nature, or science, or of human ex-
perience, they shrink, like so many owls, back to the
silence and the darkness of tlie ruins where they have
dwelt so long, unable to endure the light or the ques-
tionings to which our modern knowledge and civiliza-
tion would subject tliem. But this blessed word of
God, more venerable still than they, is as fully adap-
ted to the illumination and discoveries of the cent-
uries after Christ, as it was to the knowledge and
civilization of the centuries before him. From the
first it boldly accepted, in its utterances, all risks
of the future^ assured that no development of nat-
ure or man would ever be able to antiquate its ut-
terances. This was a wonderful risk to assume, and

20 Fkom, Boston to Bareilly.

that, too, in a world where there was so much change
inevitable, and at a time which was merely the early
dawn of knowledge. But the Bible could afford to
do all this, because it was written with divine fore-
knowledge. To-day, fairly interpreted, it transcends,
as fully as it ever did, the highest attainments and
experiences of the human race, and no doubt it will
continue to march ahead of all true development until
time shall be no more.

Here is as keen a test and as critical an appeal to
facts as even its foes might desire. The quotations
which I have just given were first spoken to men
more than three thousand years ago on the plains of
Mesopotamia or the hills of Judea — men who never
saw an iceberg, and never gazed upon even the outer
circle of that awful Arctic, whose interior secrets are
still only known to Him who made them. Even our
own hardy and inquisitive race, with all its appli-
ances for discovery and endurance, realizes keenly
its impotence, and the limit of its power and knowl-
edge, in the presence of these mysteries. Again
and again it has made heroic and desperate ef-
forts to penetrate and explore them. Alas! their
frozen bodies and deserted ships on its outer mar-
gin are the ghastly evidence of its inability to pene-
trate those reserved secrets of the great God. Their
very failure is additional evidence of the perpet-
ual truth of His holy word, which thus still main-
tains its indisputable right to "hide pride from

FiioM Boston to BxVreilly. 21

man," and to cliallenge his profound and intelligent
Imniility, as lie stands in a presence like this, and
reflects upon that unexplored birthplace of these
mysterious " wanderers of the sea." So that an-
cient revelation, and nature's amazing manifesta-
tions, and the true philosophy which reverently con-
templates both, combined to inculcate the duty of
adoration of that awful, but glorious Being, whose
wisdom and resources are so unsearchable and past
finding out, that, in this supreme independence of us
and of our judgments concerning him and his ways,
he can afford to make the visible operations and
forces of nature to become merely "the hiding of
his power." We bow in reverence before Him and
exclaim, " Thou art the God that doest wonders :
thou hast declared thy strength among the people.
. . . Thy way is in tlie sea, and thy path in the great
waters, and thy footsteps are not known ! "

As the sun went down we gladly parted company
with our fearful visitant, thanking God for our safety ;
but never shall we forget the wonderful scene on which
we so intently gazed that day. Next morning, no
other icebergs being visible, and the Great Bank
having been crossed, our course was altered more to
tlie north-east, but the chilly winds which soon poured
down from the icy north made warmer clothing very
necessary to our comfort.

On the second Sabbath the sea was calm enough
to permit us to hold divine service. The scene was

22 Fjrom Boston to Baeeilly.

very interesting. Part of the congregation occupied
the upper saloon, where the organ was, and looked
down, as from a gallery, upon the preacher and the
rest of the audience in the dining saloon below.
Beautiful flowers and creeping plants festooned the
sides, and ran across, and among them hung the
cages of canary birds. The singing of the hymns
was sweet, and a very gracious influence rested upon
the audience. How appropriate were the words,
" The sea is his, and he made it : and his hands formed
the dry land. O come, let us worship and bow down :
let us kneel before the Lord our maker."

On the evening of the tenth day our gentlemanly
captain informed us that before midnight we should
see the first light on the north-west coast of Ireland,
and we remained up to behold the welcome sight.
Early next morning we ran into Lough Foyle, and
landed the mails and passengers for Londonderry.
We then coasted round the Giant's Causeway and the
islands, entered the Clyde, with its historic scenery,
and at three P. M. reached Greenock. As we ap-
proached the pier, there stood James Young, smiling
his hearty welcome down upon us, the same kindly
face which, along with that of William Stewart,
shone out its welcome at the landing-place at Cal-
cutta on our arrival in India, September 22, 1856.
Here he was, twenty-seven years later, to repeat the
same kindness, and conduct us to his hospitable
Scottish home on the other side of this beautiful bay.

Fkom Boston to Bareilly. 23

Tliank God for Christian friendship I But how good
and grateful we should be to prove at all worthy
of those loving attentions on both sides of the
Atlantic !

After a delightful visit to Helen sburg and the
Scottish capital, I crossed over to Ireland in company
with my oldest clerical friend, Rev. John Hay, to
visit the scenes where we began our ministry together
in the centenary year of British Methodism. We
had, of course, a blessed time, full of suggestive and
grateful memories. From there I went to Dublin,
my native city, and to the locality where my religious
life began. I then recrossed the Irish Sea to Liver-
pool, and one of the first things I did was to visit St.
John's market, to find out the spot so memorable to me
for what occurred there forty-six years before. Had
it not been for that event I should probably never
have seen America, and this journey could not have
occurred. This, then, to me is memorable ground.
Hither my thoughts have frequently returned, and
here now the divine voice seemed to say, " Thou
shalt remember all the way which the Lord thy God
[hath] led thee these forty years," etc.

In view of its importance to me, and in the grateful
duty to recognize the links which have connected that
hour with this in a blessed chain of providences, which
included my becoming an American citizen and a
Metliodist Episcopal minister, and founder of American
Methodist missions in India and Mexico, I am here led

2i Fkom Boston to Bareilly.

back to review life and its results, with special refer-
ence to these facts, then so unexpected. I trust my
readers will excuse me in taking a few pages to
indulge these personal reminiscences. God may make
the record profitable to them, as it certainly will be to
myself. It was on this spot, one Sunday afternoon in
August, 1839, that I first made an attempt to preach
the Gospel. The duty was performed with much mis-
giving ; but by His grace I have been enabled to con-
tinue proclaiming his truth from then till now. Per-
haps I may not be assuming too much if I modestly
suppose that God had some special work that I could
do, and that, '' when he called me by his grace," it
was with the expectation that I should do that work
for him. Yet without that "revelation of his Son in
me" which took place a few weeks before I first stood
here, I should have been both unfit and unwilling to
be led forth to such a duty.

The reader will mark how, step by step, my narrative
will lead me back again to Boston, to find, there that
necessary providential development which includes all
the justification for this present joyous journey, the
account of which I must now suspend for a few pages,
until we are brought round once more to this city and
can resume it. I ought to add here that I have but
seldom given in detail the facts w^hich I am about to
narrate, and never before wrote them out. I do so now
^t the earnest request of some friends whose judgment
I have reason to respect, and who wish to have them

Fkom Boston to Bareilly. 25

embodied in the book, which they had ah'eady sug-
gested should be the outcome of this journey. I
ought no longer to have any hesitation in doing this,
as it is now evident enough to myself that these
facts show how and why it happened that, under the
divine guidance and calling, I became the founder of
the mission in India. This being so (as I presume
the narrative will evidence), the facts in question are
no longer private and personal to myself, they belong
to the Church of God, whose servant I became, so
far as she may choose to be interested in them, as
marking the hand of God in the history and agency
of her precious work in Hindustan. The narrative
will also teach a lesson on the duty of personal effort
for the salvation of others, which I trust God will
bless, and especially to my lady readers.

While lately in Dublin I went to visit a tomb in the
Mount Jerome Cemetery. That tomb contains the
dust of a saint who w^ill yet arise in glory, and whose
blessed face I shall see again with joy. Eleven miles
south of that tomb there is a little valley, where I
first saw that face. I went once more from the tomb to
that valley, on this the last occasion when I can hope
to visit it, and there for a few days I have been living
my life over again. Forty- seven years ago my home
was here. I was then in my nineteenth year, and
was regarded by my friends as a moral young man,
and considered, by myself at least, as a Christian. I
had been from childhood connected with the Episco-

20 From Boston to Bareilly.

pal Cliurcli, an attendant on its services and Sunday-
school, and diligent in all its duties, so that I
" profited above many " of my class associates, and
bore off, because of my superior knowledge of the
word of God, several of the valuable premiums in the
yearly examinations. 1 was praised and encouraged,
and became zealous for my Church. 'No doubt of the
safety and graciousness of my condition had ever
entered my mind. I was taught, and I believed it,
that in baptism " I was made a member of Christ, a
child of God, and an inheritor of the kingdom of
heaven." What more could I need ? I regarded
myself as safe for eternity. Had any one asked " a
reason of the hope that was in me," or why I laid
this flattering unction to my soul so confidently, I
would have appealed to the book and replied. My
Catechism tells me so ; I was made all this " in my
baptism." The bald Romanism of the statement,
its doctrine of baptismal regeneration, I was not
then intelligent enough to understand. Yet on this
unscriptural dogma I was risking all my future wel-
fare. Of repentance, faith in the Lord Jesus, the
new birth, or the witness of the Spirit, I knew
nothing, and had never heard. Truly

"A form of godliness was mine,.
The power I never knew."

How trustingly I clung to the teaching of my
prayer book, and, no doubt, would have clung to it,
living or dying, to the last, not imagining that there

From Boston to Bakkilly. 27

could have been dangerous error in it. So, had
death itself come, I was there instructed, in "The
Visitation of tlie Sick," to send for my minister (as-
suming that tliere was time to do so) and make my
confession, and he — this mistaken and presumptuous
mortal — would have stood by my bedside and uttered
these awful words : " Our Lord Jesus Christ hath left
power to his Church to absolve all sinners— and, by
his authority committed to me, I absolve thee from
all tliy sins, in the name of the Father, and of the
Son, and of the Holy Ghost ! " All this, according
to the requirement there, "I steadfastly believed."
I knew no other gospel save this diluted Romanism.
No other was within my reach. Iso evangelical min-
istry of any dissenting denomination was within a
dozen miles of my home.

I look back upon these circumstances with most
painfnl remembrance, yet, I hope, with entire freedom
from denominational bigotry. I was intensely loyal
to my Clnirch. Nothing short of the most serious
consideration could have detached me from her com-
munion. Changing one's Church relations is seldom
justified by any thing less than realizing greater help
in the religious life, or a larger opportunity of Chris-
tian usefulness. But I have never doubted the course
I was then led to take in tliis matter. How conld I
do so ? Here I was, like hundreds around me, sitting
under a State-Church ministry which, year after year,
left us unawakened to a sense of our guilt and dan-

28 From Uoston to Bareilly.

ger, and not only so, but wliich, as in my own case,
when God, by another agency and the help of his
holy word, enabled me to discover my state, actually
discouraged — I might almost say persecuted — me, be-
cause I was trying to find the light which they had
never shed upon* me. They were disgusted that I
should discredit, by my doubts, " the new birth "
which they said I had received in my baptism, and
which, they asserted, was further ratified to me when
the Bishop laid his hands upon my head in " con-
firmation." Yet, when awakened, I was not able to
find any evidence, save this clerical assertion, that any
such change had ever passed upon me. But I could
not afford to make a mistake here, for eternity was
involved. I had begun to feel through all my being
that I ^* must be born again " — must have " the inward
and spiritual grace," without which "the outward
and visible sign " was nothing to me but a few drops
of water. Alas ! I knew that I had not this regener-
ation of the Holy Spirit, for the " grace " and " the
fruits" of the Spirit are inseparable, and I feared,
and soon came to know, that these fruits were not in
me.

My religious guides were as confused as was Nico-
demus when our Lord preached the doctrine of the
new birth to him, and proved to his conscience that
he was ignorant of it, though he was " a master in
Israel." This question is vital to the ministry and
membership of every Church on earth. How terrible

From Boston to Bareilly. 29

that men should dare to enter the ministry of any
one of tliem as a mere ^' profession," by which to earn
a "respectable" living! If unconverted themselves,
how can tliey lead their unsaved hearers to salvation?
while, as unconverted, they are certainly uncalled
of God to this holy office, no matter what their other
qualili cations may be. Yet these are the men who,
in their presumption, I have heard so often talk loft-
ily of their superior, and, indeed, exclusive, " holy or-
ders," derived from their " apostolicoJ succession " —
that miserable Komish fable — and who could speak
contemptuously of what they were pleased to call
" the unauthorized ministry" of other men : men who
had, nevertheless, the divine seal upon their ministry,
and whose " proofs of apostleship" — and they needed
no other — were the souls which they had saved and
edified, and would yet present, as their "glory and
joy," before the throne of God. I had begun to un-
derstand that common sense concurred with Bible
teaching on this question. If a man trusts a preten-
tious lawyer, he can only lose his property if wrongly
advised ; or, an unskillful physician, he risks only
health and life ; but, if he be guided by an uncon-
verted clergyman, he adventures his soul's eternal
welfare, with the liability of finding himself and this
" blind leader of the blind " at last " fallen together
into the ditch " of hopeless misery ! How carefully
should the Churches of God ffuard the door which
admits to tlieir ministrv, and see to it that, whatever

30 From Boston to Bareilly.

other qualification their candidates have or have not,
thej shall have at least the experimental piety which
will enable them to guide poor awakened souls more
safely than I was guided forty-seven years ago, when
they so confidently cried "Peace, peace,'' w^here God
had not spoken it. Had I been left to them I should
probably have perished in my sins.

But, a compassionate God was preparing another
agency to undeceive me, to open iny eyes, and turn
me from darkness to light, that I might receive for-
giveness of my sins, and an inheritance among them
that are sanctified, all through the instrumentality
of that blessed woman from w^hose tomb I have just
returned. How heartily I may thank God that she
herself had found what she was so soon to teach me.
But how she was led out of darkness similar to my
own to that attainment, is an essential part of this
narrative, and will illustrate the grace of God in a
wonderful manner.

This precious lady belonged to the upper circles of
society. Her husband had been member of Parlia-
ment for the University of Dublin, and was at this
time one of her majesty's Judges. She was well qual-
ified, by her many accomplishments, for adorning the
position which they occupied. She loved worldly
splendor and the gayety of fashionable life, and yet
regarded herself as a Christian, and w^as very regular
in her attendance at church and sacraments. Being
fond of the harp, and wishing to perfect herself in

From Boston to Bareilly. 31

its use, slie hired a professional harper to instruct
lier. Tills harper was a Welshman, and one of the most
unique persons I ever saw. lie was very small in
size, entirely blind, dressed with scrupulous neatness
in black, and wore a white cravat. His hair, as white
as snow, hung down on his shoulders, and he looked
like what we might suppose one of the ancient bards
to have been. lie attended twice a week to give the
lessons. It was a beautiful picture to see the lovely
little man, with the harp towering above him, as he
sat and discoursed that sweet music ; and she would
listen, then take her place and submit herself to his
instruction and the requisite criticism upon her per-
formance.

He was a saintly man, but she knew it not. He
had not yet ventured to converse with her upon the
subject of religion, and probably may have had an
apprehension that her High-Churchism would lead her
to resent any effort of that kind as an intrusion. But,
one Monday morning, when taking her lesson, she
paused, and, turning toward liim, said, in her own
rapid and impulsive manner, " O, Mr. Lewis, I heard
such a magnificent sermon yesterday from Mr. M.
It was so grand ! Whom did you hear, sir ? Where
did you go ? " He paused, fearing his answer would
not please her " Church " notions. She perceived his
hesitation, and then insisted, in a half-earnest, half-
playful manner, on being informed where he went
and who he heard. He saw " the cross" was reached

32 Fkom Boston to Baeeilly.

and tliat he must take it up. So, lifting his heart to
God for help, lie quietly answered, " Madam, I went
to the Methodist chapel, and heard a Methodist
preacher." She broke out in such a hearty peal of
laughter, and exclaimed, " The idea, Mr. Lewis, that
you should go among those Methodists ! " And then
she overflowed again with her fun at his expense and
want of judgment " to go among those Methodists ! "
Poor soul, she knew nothing of them, and thus only
expressed her prejudice. But her curiosity was
awakened, and she urged him further, saying, " Come,
now, Mr. Lewis, I must insist on knowing why you
went among such people, for I understand that they
are very fanatical and ignorant ! " Again lie lifted
his heart to God for help and replied, " Madam, will
you listen patiently while I tell you V " Certainly,"
she said ; " I want to know all about it." He then
began and told her how he had gone among these
people, and had there heard, for the first time in his
life, the Scripture doctrine of a conscious salvation,
and how to obtain '' a good hope through grace." As
he spoke the grateful tears flowed down his face, and
he looked the joy which he described. She did not
lose a word. She could gaze into his sightless coun-
tenance and note the whole expression, and, as she
looked and listened to the wonderful story, her own
heart was opening with deep feeling to tlie truth.
She felt that he was sincere. Seeing the peace of
God on his beautiful countenance, she begnn to

From Boston to Barkilly. 33

realize that he had found something more in the
Christian religion than she herself had ever known.
But when he came to speak of his joyous hope that,
ere long, he would be done with the things of earth,
and God would open his eyes — which had never
looked upon this world — to behold the glories of eter-
nity and to " see the King in his beauty," her tears
were flowing in honest sympathy with his joy. Be-
fore he had finished his simple narration of "what
God had done for his soul," she had settled down into
the resolution that she must kno^v more about these
despised " Methodists," and would find out for her-
self if there was reasonable and scriptural justifica-
tion for such confidence and such happiness as her
harper had expressed that morning. She ascertained
from him where this Methodist chapel was situated
(they then used the word chapel for their places of
worship in Ireland) and the hour of service, and, as
they parted, she said a few appreciative words to him,
and he knew that he had not lost her good- will by
his candid statement that forenoon.

On Saturday evening she ordered her coachman to
have the carriage at the door next morning in time.
It was done, and when she stepped in she surprised
the footman who attended her, by telling him to
direct the coachman to drive her to the Methodist
chapel in Whitefriars Street. To the amazement of
the frequenters of this place of worship (built by Mr.
Wesley himself) the splendid equipage, drawn by

34 Fbom Boston to Bareilly.

four bay horses, stopped at the door, and the elegant
lady stepped out, entered, and took a seat in the
front of the gallery. It is probable that the preacher
was the Eev. Gideon Ouseley (a name famous in
Irish Methodism). She had never before seen a min-
ister in the pulpit without gown and bands, nor a
service conducted without the use of the prayer
book. It was all novel to her. But there was a
heartiness in the service that pleased her, and the
sermon found its way into her soul and gave her more
light than she had before. She returned home deeply
impressed, and began to pray earnestly to God to help
her to understand what true religion was. The fol-
lowing Saturday, in giving her orders, she told the
coachman to have tlie carriage ready next morning,
but to " leave off the leaders " — two horses would be
sufficient to take her. Her worldly pride was being
crucified, and she was becoming " lowly in heart."
This was more evident a week later, when she in-
formed the coachman she would not require the
carriage next morning. She would walk to the serv-
ice (as she did ever after), but that she wished him
to attend her, carrying her Bible and hymn book;
her object being to bring him, also, under the sound of
the GosjDcl.

She now invited the Methodist ministers to call
upon her, that she might receive further instruction
and have them pray with her, and place in her hands
suitable books on the subject of salvation. This was

From Boston to Bareilly. 35

done, and she soon read " William Carvosso's Life "
and " The Life and Letters of Hester Ann Rogers,"
and similar works on Christian experience. So faith-
fullv did she follow the instructions given, that she was
ere long gloriously converted, to the great joy of her
dear old harper. But she did not rest in that where-
unto she had now attained. Like Miss Frances
Bidley Havergal, (may God increase the number of
such Christians in that old Church !) she was led, by
her earnest love of holiness, to inquire if there was
not something more in Christianity for her to receive,
beyond the blessings that came to her in this " new
birth ? " She rejoiced to be assured that there was a
higher life, a perfect love, a state of entire sanctifica-
tion into which it was now her blessed privilege to
enter, and be " saved to the uttermost." With be-
coming earnestness she sought this " second blessing,"
and soon entered upon its enjoyment. Henceforth
her life became one of the most lovely patterns of
" the beauty of holiness." And now, to lead others
to the attainment of what she had herself found,
became her daily effort and her greatest joy. Her
first desire was for her husband's salvation, and he,
seeing what divine grace had done for her, submitted
himself to her guidance, and sought the Lord on his
own behalf, and a few weeks after they were rejoic-
ing as "heirs together of the grace of life." He
became a true Cliristian; a family altar was estab-
lished in that household and kept up to the close of

36 From Boston to Baeeilly.

life. All tlie influence of his position was thrown
henceforth on the side of evangelical religion and the
moral reforms of that day, including the temperance
cause. Then her friends and her servants became
objects of her solicitude, with gracious results in
many instances.

Such was the help that God was so soon to send
to me. Shortly after these events, and with special
references to her delicate health, her husband pur-
chased a beautiful country home near where I lived,
and there she continued her efforts to do good. Soon
after their arrival one of my young friends said to me,
"St. Yalori House has been purchased by one of the
Judges, and his wife is a great Methodist. She is in
the habit of walking out every morning, and takes
tracts w^ith her, and talks to people whom she meets
about religion." This was the first time that I had
even heard the word "Methodist," and asked my
friend what it meant? He sneeringly replied,
" Why, a Methodist is one who actually believes they
can know their sins forgiven and be assured of the
favor of God ! " He uttered this sarcastically, to
show how fanatical such people must be ; but his
words took a singular hold on my heart, and led me
to reflect much upon them during the day. I knew
they did not describe my condition, and I wondered
whether they truly described the condition of any one
in this world, these Methodists or any one else ?
But there was a rebound, and my religious pride w^as

From Boston to Bareilly. 37

alarmed. I found myself sincerely hoping that I
should not fall into lier hands or be talked to by her.
I did not wish to be disturbed as to my religious
condition. On inquiring as to her appearance, she
was represented to me as tall, refined, and delicate
lookino". It was sina^ular how uncomfortable I be-
came by the presence of this " Methodist " in our
neighborhood, and how much I began to fear that I
might come in contact with her, and that she might
talk to me about my religious state.

It was only a few mornings after this conversation
that I rose earlier than usual to attend to some busi-
ness, and going along the road near St. Yalori, I saw
her coming toward me, attended by her maid. From
the description I felt assured this must be the lady !
I at once slackened my pace in order to get time to
decide what I should do to escape. The wall on either
side of the road was over six feet high, and I could
not jump over. It looked cowardly to turn back and
escape by walking away from her, so I concluded to
take the alternative which remained, that, as the side-
walk was fully ^VG feet wide, I would, as we ap-
proached each other, step to the very outside limit
and leave her a wide berth to pass on. Quickening
my steps, to carry out my purpose, as I came near I
saw, to my confusion, that she did not intend to move
off to the inside, but was going to stop in the
center of the path, and so gently bar my way I She
afterward told me, that before I reached her, the

38 From Boston to Bareilly.

Spirit of God seemed to say to her heart, " Speak to
this young man." So, as she stopped, I had no alter-
native but to do the same, and then I ventured to lift
my eyes and look at her. How amazed 1 was, and
ashamed as well, that I should have imagined her
— "this Methodist" — something of a horror, to be
afraid of on meeting ! How sweet her face was, and
such a smile! She could not but see that I was
alarmed at her presence, and that I looked rather
wild. But she spoke, and said in such a gentle way,
and in tones that I shall never forget, " Good-morn-
ing, young man ; may I say a few words to you ? "
My trepidation at once calmed down, and I looked
again at that saintly face, and answered, "Yes,
madam, you may say whatever you wish." She saw
that she had gained her first point, and stepped nearer,
till she could touch my sleeve with that white hand,
so thin and wasted by the incipient consumption
which four years after was to lay her in the grave.

She then said, " I want to ask you this question.
Do you pray ? " Had»she asked me. Do you say your
prayers? I could have answered with great confi-
dence. But she did not say or mean that, though
herself an Episcopalian, and well acquainted with the
prayer book. I had never offered an extempore
prayer — could not have done it. My heart had not
learned to utter its own cry to God according to its
own feelings. I had only repeated the language of
other people, whether it fully expressed my own con-

From Boston to Bareilly. 39

dition or not. It was wonderful what clearness there
was in her question, how the Spirit of God carried
her meaning into my mind. Each sentence that
she liad uttered had that unction which accompanies
the words of one who lives in close communion with
God. So, though in such darkness, I saw at once
what she meant when she asked me if I prayed.
Being too manly to tell a falsehood, I promptly an-
swered, " No, madam, I do not." She drew a deep
sigh, and tlien said, " Well, if you don't pray, what
is to hecoine of your soul f " Up to that hour I had
supposed that my soul was all right, that I was safe
for eternity. But her question went through ray
heart, and woke me up to a suspicion, which imme-
diately became a consciousness, that I was unsaved,
that my soul was in danger! Her tender words had
" opened my eyes" — my ecclesiastical salvation van-
ished as in a moment, and I saw myself, in the sight
of God, a sinner, guilty and polluted,

" Faded my drtiious show,

My form without the power,
The sin-convincing Spirit blew,

And blasted every flower."

What a revelation that hour brought to me ! I had
nothing to say : I hung my head and was silent.

She saw how God was helping her, and touched
my arm again. How glad I am that she touched me !
Tlie Lord Jesus touched those he would bless. " Such
words and touches live" — there was sympathy and

40 From Boston to Bareilly,

personal appeal in it, no formality or aristocratic
bearing. How kindly and tenderly she touched me,
as she said, " Now listen to me ! " She talked, per-
haps, less than fifteen minutes, of repentance, what
it was to be born again, to have the witness of the
Spirit and real Christianity in tlie soul. When she
ceased I had learned more about true religion than I
had gained from all the sermons I had ever heard,
for I had been taught — wliat I least of all expected to
know — that I was, indeed, a sinner, needing a change
of heart, and must be converted or perish ; but I
learned, too, thank God, how I might be saved ! The
Holy Spirit sealed every word upon my conscience,
and I became so submissive to the guidance of God
through her, that it seemed as though a thread would
have led me anywhere to seek salvation. She closed
the interview, earnestly exhorting me not to lose an
hour in carrying out my resolution to seek the Lord,
and made me promise to call upon her that evening,
and then used these words : " Young man, God is not
only able and willing to save your soul, but he is also
willing to make you the means of the salvation of
other people." These words startled me. Realizing,
as I then did, the depth of my own unworthiness, I
could not imagine that God would add personal use-
fulness in my case to personal salvation. Perhaps it
ministers to her joy to-day to know that her expecta-
tion was not disappointed.

We parted, but I was so determined to lose no time

From Boston to Bareilly. 41

in seeking tlie Lord, that I let the worldly business
go for that morning, and walked on to where I knew
there was a gate leading into the field, and there I
entered, and behind that wall dropped on my knees,
and pleaded with God for mercy. The blessed Spirit
was helping me, and I found words to express myself.
Then and there I gave myself to Christ as Saviour
and Lord forever, and implored God to make me
such a Christian as this lady had taught me I must
become in order to be saved. That evening I called
upon her, and she further instructed and prayed
with me. She also put into my hands the same
precious books that had helped herself — Carvosso's
Life and Mrs. Eogers's Life — telling me to read
th^m daily, along with my Bible, and keep on pray-
ing earnestly until I felt that the Lord had converted
my soul.

But I had a hard conflict, and a long time elapsed
ere I entered into the light and joy of salvation. My
dear friend was my only helper. No Methodistic or
other evangelical ministry was within my reach, nor
any of our precious means of grace. I was "in a dry
and thirsty land." The wicked scoffed at me, and
some, from whom better things might have been ex-
pected, pointed the finger of scorn at "this new
Methodist." But I held on, though without any
comfort or joy, resolved not to give up seeking, let
them persecute as they might. My convictions of sin
were very keen. Often I could neither eat nor drink,

42 Fkom Boston to Bareilly.

nor even sleep. Sometimes I was so distressed that
I would rise at midnight and walk the fields, and look
up at the stars, and cry out to God above them to
come down to my help and grant me mercy. Satan
was doing all he could to buflTet and discourage me,
so that frequently I ahnost despaired of salvation. In
this weak and agonized condition a new difficulty was
added to my burden. I visited a person connected
with the "Plymouth Brethren" — an Antinomian and
Calvinistic community — who urged me to give up
this worry and anxiety about my soul, on the ground
that, " if you are elected to be saved, God will in his
own good time gather you in ; being complete in
Christ, why distress yourself thus ? " Had I yielded
to this seductive teaching, I should have lost my
convictions and cried "peace" when God had not
spqken it, and so, perhaps, added one more to the
list of those "goodly formal saints" whom I there
heard talk so smoothly of "the finished work of
Jesus" and "imputed righteousness," but whose
censorious spirit toward those "who followed not
with them," evidenced plainly enough, even to one
as feeble as myself, how easily a man could become
a Christian in their sense, and yet remain destitute
of "the meekness and gentleness of Jesus Christ." I
had light enough to see the danger, and cried to God
to save me from this self-deception, and not allow
me to rest in any thing but the atonement of Jesus
Christ, and the divine purpose of it in my heart. I

From Boston to Bareilly. 43

returned home, but realized soon that I had been
wounded — an envenomed arrow had pierced me, and
it was rankling keenly. That terrible doctrine of an
unconditional election and its counterpart, had been
insinuated into my soul. I thought and reasoned
over those words, " If I was elected to be saved," and
sliuddered as I reflected on the other side of that doc-
trine. I searched for reasons to enable me to believe
that I was one of the elect, and, therefore, my safety
was assured, but could not find tliem ; while, my very
anguish of soul and the length of time that I had now
struggled to find peace with God, seemed to prove
that I was, instead, one of the non-elect, and would
as surely be lost at last ! Had I gone and disclosed
this new sorrow to my beloved friend, she might
have helped me out of it, but I began to fear that
I was giving her too much trouble, and that my
delay in finding mercy was becoming discouraging
to her. What long and weary months of dis-
traction and mental pain I passed through ere relief
came !

Winter arrived, and my friend returned to the city
of Dublin, and I was left alone to wrestle with all
these difficulties. But after a while I followed her
to the city, and on the ensuing Sabbath morning I
accompanied her to the Methodist cliapel, the first
non-conformist service I had ever attended. How
simple and apostolic it all appeared! The hearty
singing, the extempore prayers, the experimental

44 Fkom Boston to Bareilly.

l^reacliing (preaclied, not read), all delighted nie.
My confidence was won. I felt that I had found,
here the very help my poor discouraged soul required,
and it was easy to conclude at once, as I did, that
these people should be my people for the rest of
my life.

Here I first saw that dear old harper. I happened
to sit where I had a good view of him. It was then
the custom in Methodist services to ''line the hymns,"
that is, the preacher gave out two lines, and when the
congregation had sung them the next two were given.
Every one sang, including the harper. His quick ear
could catch the words his eyes had never seen, and it
was inspiring to behold his glowing and beautiful
countenance as he sang so joyously. On this occasion
it happened that the hymn was the first in the collec-
tion, " O for a thousand tongues, to sing," etc. The
outburst of holy praise rose in ardor as the hymn
proceeded ; but when we came to the last verse,

" Hear him, ye deaf ; his praise, ye dumb,
Your loosened tongues employ ; "

I turned to see the effect of the next two lines on this
man, who, of all in that adoring assembly, could best
appreciate them. The preacher gave out the words,

" Ye blind, behold your Saviour come ;
And leap, ye lame, for joy."

The old harper was thrilled ; the effect on his feel-
ings was almost overwhelming. His face shone.

From Boston to Bareilly. 45

the tears rolled down his cheeks, and the sightless
eyeballs were lifted up in adoration of the Saviour he
seemed then and there to " behold."

Numbers of the congregation were looking at him,
and their tears were flowing in sympathy with his
ecstasy of joy. We all seemed to realize that, blind
as he was, he was beholding more than any of us
were favored to see. O, thank God ! there are reve-
lations in spiritual religion which the world knows
not, and of which mere formal Christians are not
aware, when

" Faith lends its realizing light;

The clouds disperse, the shadows fly;
The Invisible appears in sight,

And God is seen by mortal eye."

That radiant face was realizing its full significance,
as he sang and " saw God," and exhibited the effects
of that adoring humility in which i^elf sinks out of
sight, and the Lord Jesus becomes "all in all" to
the enraptured saint. Here, truly, was explained
and illustrated the full significance of Charles Wes-
ley's words :

" Open my faith's interior eye:

Display thy glory from above ;
And all I am shall sink and die,

Lost in astonishment and love."

The memory of that blessed Sabbath remains with
me to this hour. I joined a class, and entered at
once with avidity into the enjoyment of the means
of grace possessed by tliose people. I was no longer

46 Fbom Boston to Bareilly.

alone, witliout sjmpatlij or assistance, but was helped,
especially bj hearing the experience of others.

One Sunday afternoon, while in a meeting for
Christian fellowship, held in the vestry of Hendrick
Street chapel, I was enabled to rest on Christ as my per-
sonal Redeemer. All the burden rolled off my heart,
and I felt and knew that I was saved ! I rose to
my feet and at once acknowledged what the Lord
liad done for my soul, and those present rejoiced
with me.

My precious friend was made happy, and praised
God on my behalf. She now urged upon me the duty
of mental culture, and advised the keeping a journal
of my experience and humble efforts to do good.
But, above all, she counseled the devout and regular
perusal of the word of God, with special reference to
the attainment of that further state of grace to which,
as a child of God, I had now become entitled. I was
consequently led to join one of those little bands
which met to pray for this blessing of purity of heart,
that " perfect love which casteth out fear.'' To be
sanctified throughout body, soul, and spirit, now be-
came my intense desire. I longed to be saved " to
the uttermost," and to know for myself what it was
to " walk in the light, as He is in the light," and expe-
rience that " the blood of Jesus Christ his Son cleans-
etli from all sin." I did not trouble myself about defi-
nitions of the doctrine, the experience of which I was
seeking, no more than I did a few weeks before, when

Feom Boston to Bareilly. 47

God granted me the blessing of justification. I simply
accepted the words above quoted in their manifest
meaning, and entreated the Holy Spirit to grant me,
in his own way and manner, what they implied. Mr.
Wesley's sermon on " The Hepentance of Believers,"
and his "Plain Account of Christian Perfection," and
also Mr. Fletcher's treatise, greatly helped me ; so that
I had an intelligent apprehension of what I required,
and what the word of God offered to my hope. With
all sincerity and strong desire I sought it daily, I
might say, hourly. At one of our little meetings a
peculiar spirit of earnestness for the blessing sought
became manifest. We were kneeling round the
center table in the parlor, and one after the other
prnyed, and some one suggested that we should sing,
as we knelt, and with all the faith we had, these two
verses :

" 0 that it now from heaven might fall,

And all my sins consume !
Come, Holy Ghost, for thee I call ;

Spirit of burning, come I

"Refining fire, go through my heart;

Illuminate my soul ;
Scatter thy life through every part,

And sanctify the whole."

As the singing closed all became conscious of the
surrounding presence of the holy Sanctifier, whom
we had invoked. I can describe my own feelings
very imperfectly, for this was something beyond what
I had ever known before. It seemed to be light and

48 Fbom Boston to Bareilly.

life and love combined, so sweetly, and in such an
indescribable manner, resulting in

" The speechless awe that dares not move
And all the silent heaven of love."

Christ had become, beyond all former experience,
every thing to me, while I seemed to sink at his
blessed feet, " lost in astonishment and love." Those,
in any denomination, who have sought and found this
grace, will understand what I am trying to narrate
better than I am able to describe it.

The effect upon me was clear. I had henceforth
more delight in devotion, closer intimacy with God,
greater stability of heai*t and character, and more
deadness to the world. I was conscious of an increase
of calmly fervent zeal to lay out my life to do any
thing that my blessed Master might require of me.
Perfect peace — "the peace of God that passeth all
understanding " — kept my heart and mind from day to
day. I was free from excitement, from fluctuation,
and from all fear, resting sweetly in the calm sunshine
of the 'New Testament salvation, and living " a life
of faith in the Son of God," who, I knew, loved me
and had given himself for me.

" 0, days of heaven,

And nights of equal praise 1 "

Sometime after this the Rev. Dr. Durbin, president
of Dickinson College in America, then on a tour in
Europe, came to Dublin, and was announced to preach

FuoM Boston to Bareilly. 49

in Abbey Street cliapel. I went to hear him. The
audience was very large and deeply interested. His
sermon was to me a memorable one. The text was, "A
bruised reed shall he not break, and the smoking flax
shall he not quench." Those were the days of candles
in the pulpit, and, in illustration of his theme of the
divine tenderness toward every penitent soul, he lifted
the snuffers and took off the superfluous wick, then,
after a moment's pause, he opened the snuffers, and a
tiny puff of smoke rose up out of the holder, and he
stretched it out toward the audience, and proceeded
to show that a feeling in the human soul as
w^eak even as that " smoking flax " need not be dis-
couraged, for God would " not quench it." He car-
ried out and illustrated the doctrine of the divine
mercy to mankind, and showed that willful refusal of
his grace, and that alone, could cause the final rejec-
tion of any human soul. In the light of this sermon
that ghastly creed of an arbitrary reprobation of men
as men — that "horrible decree," which had hung
over my mind like a cloud — vanished away forever.
How gloriously this Arminian theology sounded in
my ears, and corresponded with all the joyous ex-
perience of my heart ! I blessed God for the conso-
lation, and felt that this service had become to me
one of the highest inspirations of my life.

What glorious perfections of the divine nature om-
niscience and foreknowledge must be ! There, in that

evening service, where His gracious j)rescnce was so
4

50 Fkom Boston to Baeeilly.

manifest, tlie future lay before the eje ef God in one
unlimited outlook, so that he could " call those things
which are not as though they were." He saw the
preacher become missionary secretary, and the un-
known listener a founder of missions, both brought
together in co-operation, and the India and Mexico
missions tlie result.

So far as I was concerned a new and special interest
for the great country which Dr. Durbin represented,
sprang up in my mind. But how far I was from
imagining that evening, as I sat and listened to him
with such delight, in what interesting relations he
and I were yet to stand to each other. How, from
the very hand which held forth that humble illustra-
tion, I was to receive, in another pulpit, and beyond
the Atlantic, that letter of instructions — that com-
mission and an American passport — under which I
became the chosen representative of his Church, and
the founder of that work in India on which his heart
was so long set, and to which some of his grandest
eloquence became so consecrated to the close of his
public life 1

Feom Boston to Bakeilly. 51

CHAPTER II.

" Unto me, who am less than the least of all saints, is this grace
given, that I slionld preach among the Gentiles the unsearchable
riches of Christ." — St. Paul.

The celebration of the centenary of "Weslejan Meth-
odism awakened in my heart deep gratitude to the
Author of all good for every thing which that event
implied. I was led to cross over to Liverpool to
be present ou the occasion w^hen the Kev. Thomas
Jackson, the president of the British Conference,
preached the official centennial sermon required by
the Conference of 1839. The text was from 1 Cor.
i, 26, " For ye see your calling, brethren," etc. It
was to me an occasion of great spiritual profit, and
gave me an enlarged appreciation of the work of God
being accomplished throughout the world through
the instrumentality of the Church with which I had
become connected. But God had led me to Liverpool
for higher purposes than mere religious enjoyment
and contemplation. A new and peculiar class of
thoughts and feelings were beginning to assert them-
selves over my heart and the purposes of my life.
But 1 knew not their significance, and dreamed not
where and how far they were going to lead me.
I had been brought into pleasant acquaintance with

52 Fkom Boston to Baeeilly.

a godly man, a local preacher, and, without my know-
ing it, he was closely watching the manifestations of
my experience. When the Sabbath morning arrived
it was his turn to preach in the open air at St. John's
Market. I gladly accompanied him to aid in singing,
as well as to see, what I had not witnessed before, an
open-air service. I greatly enjoyed the opportunity.
But what was my amazement to hear him, as he closed
the service, announce to the crowd, " Friends, I want
to give notice that this afternoon, at three o'clock,
"William Butler, of Dublin, will preach here. Come
and hear him ! " I was so surprised that my speech
seemed to leave me, and it was some time before I
could say any thing. When I recovered myself the
crowd had departed, and he and I were almost alone.
I asked the good man why he had made the announce-
ment. I expostulated, pointed out that I had but late-
ly experienced religion, had no training, was only a
youth, never had preached, and never expected to do
so. The easy way in which he bore all my expostula-
tion amazed me still further. He seemed to have no
sympathy for my distress, but he quietly rephed, " My
brother, you must preach the Gospel, or you will lose
your religion." In my simplicity, then, I supposed
whatever a good man said was not to be questioned ;
nor did it occur to me that he might be mistaken.
So I felt entirely bewildered. It seemed that I had
to do this thing or " lose my religion." We walked
home in silence. It grew awfully solemn the more I

From Boston to Bareilly. 53

thought about it. Some three hours before the time
for the service my friend handed me the Bible and
hymn book, and told me to retire to my bedroom and
ask God to give me a text, and then study it, and that
he would call me when it was time to go.

Entering the room, I threw myself on my knees
and tried to pray, but my great anxiety seemed to
frighten away every text from my remembrance. I
could not fasten on any. The distress increased as
the hour drew on. At length the words, " Ye must
be born again," seemed to shine out of the darkness,
and I thought, " Well, I know what that is, and can
tell them something about it, and then spend the rest
of the time persuading them to seek it." I had caught
hold of my two simple divisions. Just then my friend
knocked ; it was time to go. How solemn that walk
was ! " The burden of the Lord " had been laid on
my shoulders, and it was very heavy. But, sooner
than '' lose my religion," I would bear it ; and then, I
reflected, it would only be for that once. The con-
gregation were already assembled around the steps,
and I went up, knowing I could at least give oat the
hymn and offer prayer, and then read a chapter.
Whether I could go any further time alone could tell.
The second singing was ending, and the next thing
the people would expect to hear would be the text.
My poor heart beat fast and I cried to God for help.
At length the text was uttered, " Ye must be born
again." I saw there was only one way for me. If I

54 FiiOM Boston to Bareilly.

looked into the faces of the congregation I should, in
my timidity, surely become confused, and have to sit
down in silence ; so I immediately closed my eyes,
and dared not open them again until my poor little
sermon was ended. In a few minutes, as I was telling
them what God had done for me when I was " born
again," a person on the right hand said, " Amen ! "
How that helped me ! I felt that some one was being
beneiited. Well, I concluded at last, and then vent-
ured to open my eyes. I prayed, and the audience
was dismissed. The dreadful ordeal was over !

On our way home I timidly said to my friend, " I
have done what you laid on me, but, of course, that
is the end of the matter. I shall never make another
effort of the kind." He quietly smiled and said
nothing. How I did wish he would say that he
would not expect it of me ! But he kept his thoughts
to himself. I returned to my home in Dublin before
the following Sabbath. The news that I " had been
preaching in the streets of Liverpool " had reached
there before me, and the congratulations began to
pour in. But to call such a poor performance, deliv-
ered, too, " in weakness, and in fear, and in much
trembling " — to call that " preaching," and even con-
gratulate me upon it ! However, this was the " send-
ing forth " that I received, and, " having obtained help
of God, I have continued unto this day " to minister
the word of life as God enabled me. Yes, and even
upon that weakest of all efforts, a gracious God was

From Boston to Bareilly. 65

pleased to set liis own seal. I was to meet the blessed
result forty-four years afterward in America, when
going to attend my Conference in Boston on the 5tli
of Api4J^ 1883, to ask the sanction of my ministerial
brethren for my absence on this journey, the very oc-
casion when the resolution upon the seventh page was
so generously passed ! The excitement there men-
tioned w^as caused partly by my reference to this first
sermon of mine in Liverpool, and the remarkable fact
that on the evening before, w^hen returning from Bos-
ton to Melrose, a member of my charge informed me
that there was a person at their house who had just
arrived from New York, and who had told them that
he traveled up in company with a gentleman from
Canada, who, being a Methodist, had inquired as to
Methodist matters at Melrose, and, on the pastor's
name having been mentioned, the gentleman in ques-
tion started, and inquired eagerly as to the Christian
name and nationalitv, and when assured that it was
" William Butler, formerly of Dublin," he remarked,
with deep feeling, " Forty-four years ago I heard that
man preach in St. John's Market, in Liverpool, and
under that sermon I was led to Christ ! " How truly
was President Jackson's text illustrated in this case
also : " God hath chosen the weak things of the world
to confound the things which are mighty. . . . That
no flesh should glory in his presence."

But there was another purpose to be realized by
that visit to Liverpool. While there I made the ac-

66 From Boston to Baeeilly.

qiiaintaiice of the Rev. Mr. Trippett, a superannuated
member of the !N^ew York Conference, who had come
for a time to make his home in Liverpool. From
conversation with him I gained further information
of that free land beyond the Atlantic, and its grow-
ing Methodism. I told him how much I desired in-
formation about both, and he kindly offered to order
for me such books as I needed, and also to forward
my subscription for The Christian Advocate, I was
thus brought into contact and more intimate sympathy
with the life and action of John Wesley's Church ;
and this became, in some sort, a training that, under
Providence, more fully prepared the way for my con-
nection with that Clmrch, ten years afterward, when
I had gained that more special aptitude which was
requisite to prepare me to fill the peculiar position
which the necessity of the hour would require. I was
at this time inexperienced and young, and liad no
qualification for preaching the Gospel except piety
and zeal for souls. But that sermon at Liverpool
settled the whole question. My friends would take
no denial. I must go here and there and preach (or
" talk," if I preferred to call it so), and thus out of
one effort and revival into another I was carried for-
ward, trying to win souls for the Master.

After two years of various service in different
circuits, I was sent to Didsbury College, near Man-
chester, to take a theological course, under the devout
and venerable Dr. Hannah. During one of my vaca-

Fkom Boston to Bakeilly. 57

tions, learning that mj beloved friend was nearing
eternity, I crossed over to Ireland to see her once
more. She was an enthusiastic admirer of the beau-
ties of nature, seeing in them the handiwork of .her
heavenly Father ; so, as long as she could bear the
effort, she was carried out daily and laid on a bed
arranged in a little carriage, and a gentle pony, care-
fully led, took the dear invalid wherever she wished
to go. In this condition I found her near her home
one summer day, her good husband guiding the little
carriage. There she lay, her head on the pillow,
looking around and enjoying the lovely landscape,
which she knew she was ere long to exchange for the
more glorious scenes of the Paradise of God. I
came to the side of the carriage and looked in upon
her who had led me to Jesus. She smiled, and the
tears came down the sweet face as she saw me. She
stretched out her hand, now so thin and wasted, and
laid it on my head, and, looking up, said, " Thank
God, here is one that is faithful ! " She had tried to
be useful to many others, as well as to me, but some
"in times of temptation had fallen away," and it grieved
her. My steadfastness, however, and my prospect of
entering the holy ministry were a great joy to her.
It was evident now that I sliould not see her on earth
again, as I had to return to England to resume mj
studies. So, with tears, I bade her farewell, not
doubting that she would close her holy and useful life
triumphantly. She lingered until the morning of

58 FiioM Boston to Bareilly.

March 29, 1843, and then met death as such a Chris-
tian miglit be expected to meet it. She had her
bed wheeled to the window, which commanded a
grand view of the scenery she so much admired.
Ah'cady she had sent her final messages of Christian
love to her friends and those she had so religiously
helped, and was only waiting now for leave to depart
and be with Christ forever. The morning sun was
filling the view before her with loveliness, and the
nurse drew her attention to its great beauty, when

" Faith" lent " its realizing light,"

and she exclaimed, "O nurse! soon a brighter sun
will shine upon me on the everlasting hills ! " She
paused and then, her radiant face looking all the joy
that she expressed, she quoted the lines :

" The world recedes — it disappears ;
Heaven opens on my eyes ; my ears
With sounds seraphic ring ! "

Her ecstasy of joy increased ; she made an effort
to rise, and eagerly stretched out her hands, as if to
welcome the help that had come to aid her, exultingly
exclaiming :

" Lend, lend your wings ! I mount ! I fly 1
' 0 Grave, where is thy victory ?
0 Death, where is thy sting ? ' "

With the last word the head gently settled down, and
she was gone ! Gone to be " forever with the Lord."
Gone, too, where she will be henceforth surrounded

Fkom Boston to Bareilly. 69

by the fruits of her loving and gentle ministry here
below, showing wdiat one woman, and she even a
weak sufferer, may do for the souls around her, when
her whole heart is given in loving sympathy to the
blessed work. Nor w^as she unwelcomed to "the
everlasting habitations." There were those wlio
waited witli joy to greet her on her arrival. There
slie found her dear old harper — no longer old and
blind — for his eyes were wide open now to all the
glory he had so longed to see, and in his hands was
one of "the harps of God" (Rev. xiv, 2; xv, 2),

" Strung and tuned for endless years,
And formed by power divine."

And there, too, w^as Neill, her coachman (like his be-
loved mistress, for years a sufferer), \\iih many others,
also, who welcomed her to " the excellent glory,"
while here below there remain a few more of us w^ho
hope to overtake her soon. It may be also that she
has tliere met, and recognized already, such as " Sam-
uel " and " Prem Das," and " Eodrigues " and " Epig-
mio Monroy," and others of the redeemed converts
which have already " gone up " to the same glorious
home from the "valley of the Ganges" and the
"land of Montezuma," "the first-fruits" of a glori-
ous harvest from both climes. Doubtless it augments
her joy to know that she had something to do with
the founding of both those missions ! By her special
desire her mortal remains were laid to rest in a simple
tomb, similar in form, and side by side, with the tomb

dO Fkom Boston to Bareilly.

of the Kev. Gideon Ouselej, her religious friend, in
the Mount Jerome Cemetery, Dublin. Her honored
dust there reposes in sure and certain hope to " awake
to everlasting life." On the front of the tomb are
the words " Sacred to the memory of Sydney Mary
Crampton." In the same cemetery, and as near to
her resting-place as I could arrange it, lies the body
of another beloved woman, my first wife, whose early
death, and the circumstances following it, led me to
decide to emigrate to the United States. It was her
dying wish that she should be buried in the same
cemetery with Mrs. Crampton, and that affectionate
desire was gratified.

When God saved my soul he imbued me with the
missionary spirit. My sympathy for unsaved men
every-where, who are " perishing for lack of knowl-
edge," was called forth, and I longed that they, too,
should come to know my mighty Saviour. The resi-
dence in England gave me a special opportunity for
the cultivation of this missionary spirit. I had the
privilege of meeting some of the most honored and
useful missionaries of their time : men like Barnabas
Shaw, Peter Jones, and others, whose character and
labors filled me with admiration. There, too, I list-
ened frequently to the first missionary speakers of
their day : Robert Newton, Theophilus Lessey, Jabez
Bunting, and many more. It was impossible to hear
such men and not imbibe their Christlike spirit. I
read missionary literature extensively, and especially

From Boston to Bareilly. 61

the montniy " Missionary !N'otices " of tlie Weslejan
Society. The record of the spread of my Saviour's
kingdom over the earth became to me the grandest of
all literature, ^or was my reading limited to Meth-
odist missions. I read the publications of the other
societies as well, and rejoiced in the progress of them
all. A missionary library began to accumulate, and
my interest rose with my intelligence on the subject.
In the meantime I had been brought into intimate
relations with Eev. James Lynch, who, on the death
of Dr. Coke, had become superintendent of the Wes-
leyan missions in the East. He had now returned
home, and was in the last year of his ministerial serv-
ice, and, being feeble, I was sent to assist him.
From this venerable man I heard much that was cal-
culated to enlarge my views and deepen my interest
in missionary work, especially in India. The theme
thus became familiar to my thoughts and sympathies,
yet, beyond making a missionary speech occasionally,
I did not dream what particular use the Lord was
intending to make of the deep and increasing interest
he was so providentially creating in my mind on this
subject. But he intended that that should be mani-
fest when his own time had come.

In 1844 I joined the Irish Conference, was or-
dained in 1848, and labored altogether six years
in that connection. Still a regular reader of The
Christian Advocate^ and enlarging my acquaintance
with American Methodism by reading its books, my

62 Fkom Boston to Baeeilly.

thoughts and wishes were constantly turning to the
great West, so that, early in 1850, on the occurrence
of events which left me free to decide, I resolved to
transfer myself to the Methodist Episcopal Church,
though not definitely understanding why I had this
decided preference, only realizing that I was being
" guided aright," and that God would hereafter make
it plain to me. I reached America in time for the
meeting of the New York Conference, held that year
at JS^ew Haven, and was kindly welcomed by Bishops
Janes and Hedding. On examination of my papers
I was received into membership with the Conference,
but two days after, on the representation of the Kev.
Charles Baker as to the want of men in his district,
I was transferred to the New England Conference,
and stationed at Williamsburg, Mass. I now became
more fully impressed, in view of her growing power,
with the responsibility of the American Methodist
Church, before God and Christendom, to do her full
and proper part of that missionary service for which
the world was waiting, and began to talk and use
my pen in hope of somewhat stimulating her zeal.
Without realizing it, I was drawing attention to my-
self, and invitations began to come to me^ requesting
me to go here and there, to congregations and Con-
ferences, and talk upon the subject that lay so near
my heart.

In 1852 I published a " Compendium of Missions,"
several thousand copies of which went into circula-

From Boston to Bareilly. 63

tion, and drew some attention to the great duty
wliicli we owed to the world. I was also selected
that year to preach the missionary sermon before the
" Biblical Institute," at Concord, 'N. H., which I did
from the text, " Thy kingdom come." The institute
' published the sermon. In all my efforts I assunjed
that Methodism was essentially, and from the com-
mencement, missionary in her spirit and aims ; that
it became her to realize and act upon this con-
viction as God increased her ability; and that, in
proportion as she did so, the Lord would use and
honor her in extending the kingdom of his Son
upon the earth. By this time I was brought into
contact with Dr. Durbin, and was called upon to
render some service at our missionary anniversaries.
When Harvey Newcomb commenced liis preparations
for the publication of " The Cyclopaedia of Missions,"
he applied to Dr. Durbin to name a clergyman of our
denomination who would prepare the articles on the
missions of British and American Methodism ; the
doctor did me the honor to name me for the duty,
so that I soon found myself occupying a position of
special usefulness by the kind appreciation of my
brethren, and with work enough to do for the blessed
cause so dear to me. »

Meanwhile the tide of missionary interest was
rising in our Church. This was aided by the
visit, about this time, of Dr. Duff, from Calcutta,
and his earnest pleadings for the Ameiican Churches

64: Fbom Boston to Babeilly.

to extend their help in the East. Dr. Durbin was
leading our own Church on to a higher sense of lier
duty to Christ and to the world, and there was glowing
before his mind the idea of a mission of the Methodist
Episcopal Church to India. His grandest outbursts
of feeling and eloquence before our Annual Confer-
ences and the churches were, from this time forward,
on this topic. The Board took action for the estab-
lishment of such a mission, and the General Missionary
Committee, in November, 1853, made an appropriation
of $7,000 for its conmiencement, while the doctor
was instructed to seek a suitable man to go forth as
its founder and first superintendent. A volunteer
was desired, and an advertisement to this effect was
inserted in The Christian Advocate and The Mission-
ary Advocate, in which such a person was invited to
offer himself for this service. But the missionary
year closed without any one, deemed suitable, coming
forward. Dr. Durbin became very anxious, and so
was the Board. In November, 1854, the appropriation
was renewed, and the search for the man continued.
I watched the result with deep solicitude. In review
of the facts, and having had of late years — since my
return — conversations with some who then felt more or
less disposed to offer themselves for the service, I am
not so much surprised as I was at the time with the
singular hesitation of our ministers to come forward
for this duty. India then seemed very far away, and
had but little commercial relations with this country ;

From Boston to Bareilly. 65

most of what was done was by the Tudor Company
of Boston, which cut the Wenham Lake ice, and sent
it round the Cape of Good Hope to Calcutta, bring-
ing back India products. The intercourse with the
East was limited. Japan was then a sealed country,
and our mission in China very feebly developed. So
there was but little enthusiasm on the surface of
Oriental affairs to encourage our men to go there. It
need not be wondered at that our ministers were
slow in looking beyond all these discouragements to
the duty of carrying the Gospel to the perishing,
who seemed so far away. Then, in a few cases when
this was surmounted, and men felt disposed to go,
domestic considerations had to be weighed. The
wife was found unwilling to venture, or without the
health that such a duty would require ; or, where
health and wilHngness existed, it was hard to give up
the little ones, or it was found that they could not be
provided for. So one after another failed, and 1854
closed with nothing yet accomplished.

In the spring of the preceding year I had been
stationed at Westfield, and there my precious wife
died, and I was left with three little ones, the
youngest only four months old. Hitherto, though
my heart was yearning for the commencement of
that mission in India, I had not thought seriously of
offering myself to go. I reflected that I was only a
stranger in the land, and naturally felt that some

native American minister, and one better known,
5 •

66 From Boston to Bakeilly.

would attract more confidence, as well as bring to the
inception of the work an interest that I could not
hope to develop. Then, again, my wife's delicacj
of health had convinced me tlie burden was one that
she could not sustain for a single year. So it seemed
all that I could do in the case was to pray and hope
that some suitable man, with full freedom for the
burden to be borne, would offer himself soon. Dr.
Durbin and the Missionary Board could not under-
stand the reasons of this delay, and became impatient
over it. Some eminent person wrote to the doctor at
this time on the subject of his great solicitude, re-
marking, " If we have a work to do in that country,
we shall find God's chosen instruments to execute it."
On this the doctor, whose soul was exercised so long
by the " hope deferred," laconically remarked, " We
confess to a longing for their appearing." But when
the month of May, 1855, arrived, and the suitable
instrument had not appeared, he could endure it no
longer. He took up his pen and wrote an article
w4iich must liave cost him some of the deepest feel-
ing of his life. It appeared in The Christian Advo-
cate of the 10th of May, and was headed, " The
Crisis." I will quote the first part of it. He
says : " We are no alarmist, and do not now mean
to sound an alarm-note. But after consultation,
particularly with Bishop Simpson, who has charge of
our intended missions in India and Turkey, we feel
free to say, that this is the third year the General

Fkom Boston to Bareilly. 67

Missionary Committee lias provided the money for
the commencement of a mission in India, and yet the
Bishops have not been able to obtain a minister of
suitable age, healtli, and habits, as founder and super-
intendent of the mission. In general terms, the
superintendent should be from twenty-live to thirty-
ii ve years of age, and of at least seven years in the min-
istry ; of good health, not constitutionally inclined to
disease of the liver; married, and not with more
tlian one child or two, better without children ; health
of the wife good, and free from constitutional tenden-
cies to disease. Such a minister and his wife, w^ith
their minds made up to give their lives to a mission
in India, would be a great boon to the Church at this
time. We think we could iind two other younger
brethren, of similar conditions and habits as members
of the mission. These three mission families would
lay the foundations of the mission of tlie Methodist
Episcopal Church in India, and we do not doubt but
that the Church would afford the mission the means
of prosecuting its great work on a scale that would
secure the attention and confidence of the Church, and
redound to the glory of God.

"We are of opinion that the brethren competent
to found and execute tlie mission are in the ministry
among us, if we could be brought into connection
with them. Yery many letters have been written by
the Bishops and Corresponding Secretary, but as yet
without success."

68 Fkom Boston to Baeeilly.

Dr. Durbin then proceeded to urge upon the pre-
siding elders and others to look round them and try
earnestly to find the man so much desired, and get
him into communication with Bishop Simpson or the
Secretary, that the mission might be commenced
without further delay.

I thought, surely this definite and pathetic plea
would bring the proper person to the front, and
especially when so many were looking for him. So
I waited to see the result, confident it must be close
at hand now. Every issue of the Advocate was
watched, but week after week went over and no item
appeared. The case now began to look very serious.
Indeed, it became almost awful to realize that, from
the ranks of the thousands of our ministry, a super-
intendent for this mission could not be found.
Must the project, then, be abandoned by our great
Church, while God was opening the door of access
to those perishing millions, and the money was ready
and waiting, and all for the want of a suitable
man? If so, could we expect to retain the favor of
God while we thus left the souls for whom Christ
died to perish without hearing of him and his grace,
so free and abundant for them ? Thousands of our
spiritually minded people were asking such questions
as these, and they were urged for consideration at our
missionary services and Annual Conferences. In
these better days, when God's servants offer them-
selves so willingly for our various fields of missionary

Fkom Boston to Bareilly. 69

service, it does seem strange that such an emergency
could ever have arisen in our missionary history.
But the results show that the only thing really needed
was a leader, some one to go before and prepare the
way. Yet, under the circumstances which developed,
it seems evident that it required and received God's
more special providence to provide this leader for
this mission, and also to have him ready just at this
emergency. But this much having been done, men
in sufficient numbers began to come forward, and the
founder of the mission after two or three years be-
came well sustained with fellow-laborers in the field
chosen. I am the more particular to trace out these
facts, not to call attention to myself or my share in
the work (for what am I in the matter but an humble
instrument of the Divine purpose ?) I do it in the
hope that, having thus traced them, and furnished the
record, as no one else can, I may leave a permanent
impression upon the heart of my beloved Church in
regard to the definite and providential preparation for
til at great work to which she was thus called in India.
My heart's desire and prayer is, that she may be led
more fully to appreciate her opportunity, and be
faithful and strong to do her full duty, as God must
certainly expect she will, after all that he has himself
thus done to open her way for its accomplishment.

At the close of 1854 I had again married, and on re-
turning to my liome, in Lynn, found a letter awaiting
me from Dr. Durbin, which was, indeed, a surprise.

70 FiiOM Boston to Bareilly.

JN'ot knowing that I was about to marry, and suppos-
ing that he could somehow find homes for my mother-
less children, he wrote to ask me (not, whether I
would go to India, — had he put that question to me
at any time during the year preceding it would have
been promptly answered in the affirmative, but)
whether I would be willing to go to Africay to super-
intend the mission in Liberia ? I was amazed. My
interest and anxiety were with the project for India,
and all the preceding facts seemed to point there and
not to Africa. But the question had come, and I
had to answer it. I felt at once that, with my full-
blooded habit, I should probably liave but small chance
of life and service in Africa. It seemed to me a mis-
take to send me there. Yet, I am grateful I did
not answer " No," that I told Dr. Durbin if it was
considered, after medical examination, that I had a
fair chance of life, and, therefore, of labor, in Africa,
I would go. But an immediate reply from him
came back, explaining that he supposed I was still
single and could go alone. And this not being so,
he did not wish to have me go, and withdrawing his
letter. So I was reserved for the more important
duty that was yet to be presented, but had to wait
till God had made the requisite preparations, on the
other side of the world, for our coming. This ac-
complished. He knew, doubtless, that every thing
requisite on this side could be consummated in a few
days, and the mission to India would be initiated as he

From Boston to Bareilly. 71

desired. It is said that " God is never in a Imrry,"
but when his " set time " is come, and lie has made
all ready, he is often in haste for the accomplishment
of his purpose. He requires promptitude from those
whom he calls into his service. When he says " Go,"
the unburied relatives must be left to other hands,
and the plow be forsaken in the furrow, by the mes-
sengers on whom the mantle of duty has fallen, or they
are not Ht for the service of the kingdom of God.

]S"early three months had passed since that appeal
appeared, on the 10th of May, and Dr. Durbin, be-
coming discouraged, began to intimate that, if a suit-
able man did not offer to go to India within a few
weeks, the Board would not recommend to the General
Committee another renewal of the appropriation, and
the project of a mission to India by our Church
would, consequently, be abandoned ! How much pain
must that apprehension have cost the doctor! I
was exceedingly distressed. But my mind was at
once made up, that the project should not be aban-
doned, if they thought me suitable for the position.
Though I would have much preferred, for the reasons
given a few pages back, that this responsible duty
had been laid upon the shoulders of some brother
better known and an American ; yet, failing such a
one, my simple and decided purpose was, " Here am
I, send me." That I miglit however be clear in my
own mind that the duty was really left to me, I re-
solved to wait two or three weeks more, and if the

72 Feom Boston to Baeeilly.

American brother, whom I preferred for the service,
did not come forward and respond to the " crisis," I
would then hesitate no longer.

Four weeks before the meeting of the Board at
which this serious action would be taken, I went to
New York to ascertain quietly whether the way was
now open for me to offer myself. Dr. Durbin was
not in the city, but Brother Terry informed me the
man desired had not come forward, and also how
deeply exercised Dr. Durbin's heart was in view of
the failure. I returned home, had an interview with
my presiding elder, Rev. Dr. Crowell, and then, with
my wife's full consent, and invoking the divine guid-
ance, on the 10th of October, I wrote to Dr. Durbin
and offered myself for India. I was accepted and
the painful " crisis " was over. How glad I felt !
I seemed now to realize why it was I was so
providentially led to America. It was evident that
God had a purpose in my coming, and it was his
intention I should be on hand to meet a foreseen
emergency, so that the Methodist Episcopal Church
should not fail of her duty to Christ and the world.
In a review of the facts that have been developed,
it seems very clear to me now that I was divinely con-
trolled as well as guided in the whole matter, and
especially in the more emergent circumstances. A
fact or two may here illustrate the reasons for this
conviction.

Trusting that I do not presume in thinking the

From Boston to Bareilly. 73

Lord intended I should become the founder of the
India mission, it seems plain that, for reasons then
known only to himself (some of which, however,
are clear to us now), I was held back until he was
ready in his providential arrangements for the work
which had to be done. We can now see that, had I
acted six months sooner than I did, the field it was
best for me to choose, and which I did choose, would
not have been open to us, for the King of Oude
would have stood right in the way. He was not re-
moved and his kingdom annexed itntil a few weeks
before I reached India, in 1856. The patience of the
English government with this royal sot and utterly
debased creature had just been exhausted, and his
removal decreed. His terrible record is given in " The
Private Life of an Eastern King," written by an xlmer-
ican gentleman in his employment (republished about
1854 in this country). Up to that hour Oude was closed
to Christian missions. Again, Eohilcund without
Oude, would have been too small for our purposes, and
I might have been thus led to choose some other field
not at all so suitable in the qualities which I was in-
structed to seek as the one we now occupy ; for that
choice has stood the test of twenty-five years' reflection,
and is admitted to-day, by general consent, to be imex-
celled by an}^ other region occupied or unoccupied in
all India. Again, had I gone six months earlier, it
seems almost certain that some of my colleagues
might have reached me ere the terrific storm of 1857

74 Fkom Boston to Bareilly.

burst over Hindustan. As it was I was alone to face
tlie danger, and the Church was not discouraged, as
she might have been, by the loss of her first repre-
sentatives. God had only to hide me and mine in
the hollow of his hand till the indignation was over-
past, and when over, my first colleagues, who were
waiting on the outside of the danger at Calcutta (two
brethren and their wives), were able to enter and join
me, all safe and well. On the other hand, it was
most wisely arranged that I should not be later in ar-
riving than the *fall of 1856. We were just ten
weeks settled down in our chosen field when the
Sepoy Rebellion opened its horrors. God probably
knew it was best the first representative of the
Church should pass through that ordeal, and then
come forth out of the midst of that circle of fire with
not a hair of his head singed, to find his beloved
Church rejoicing over his safety, and ready to re-
spond to the grand extent necessary, with her men
and her means, to occupy the wide field so providen-
tially given her to cultivate there for Him. God thus
timed our coming, and took abundant care of the emer-
gencies involved, so that all should " turn out for the
furtherance of the Gospel."

It was arranged by the missionary authorities that
I should be ready to sail for India as soon as my Con-
ference met, in April. Meanwhile, one or two young
colleagues to accompany me were being sought for
by the Corresponding Secretary, but, to my regret, as

From Boston to Bareilly. T5

well as his own, the effort was without success so far.
Yet even this hesitation, as we can now see, was
overruled for good. On reachinsj India a great deal
of prospecting had to be done, the various unoccupied
portions compared, and tlie one most suitable selected.
So it was best the founder of the mission should go
alone and be free to meet this heavy responsibility.
The guidance of God would surely be given, and time
and experience have shown that it was granted
according to the necessity of the case.

While finishing my pastoral term and getting ready
for our departure to the East, a curious circumstance
transpired in Lynn, where I was then stationed. The
Rev. Parsons Cooke, of the Congregational Church,
issued a work in two volumes (subsequently increased
to three), in which be undertook to show, as his pages
Btated, that " Methodism is not a true branch of the
Church of Christ!"

Til is singularly bigoted man — my next-door neigh-
bor, as it were — originated quite a sensation by his
BUdden and startling charge. But he labored hard to
prove his uncharitable imputation true, chiefly on the
ground, as he aP-^ • ', that Methodism was manifestly
fi^o-v^»^^ issionary spirit, and, therefore,

-^2^ aVso a & Iq characteristic of a trv^ C^VV-

. Icl. l^aste, 7- ^f-S^ltj to charge us

^'^ t\.e A^- ^'^^ '''' ^^t home, " in secta-

^ioreto^ .m the pr.^ ^^^ Christian life

Hehp>

76 From Boston to Bareilly.

nual Report of our Missionary Society for 1854, and
his manipulation of its statements and figures were
singularly unfair and uncandid.

The gist of his argument was, that with all our
boasted progress we had no true foreign mission
worthy the name, and yet were raising missionary
money under that pretense, in order to spend it at
home, where he considered we were not much re-
quired, and were rather in tlie way of other denom-
inations like his own. His specification was, tliat of
the $228,204 income of the year, we spent only $4,883
on China, $964 on Soutli America, $10,055 on Ger-
many, and $33,825 on Liberia — only the first-named,
according to him, being a mission to the heathen ; all
the rest — nearly four fifths of the whole amount — we
were spending at home. It seemed greatly to distress
this man that our American Methodism was spending
" so much at home, " and gaining such a foothold in
the land. He had no thanks to render to God for the
fact that tens of thousands were being yearly converted
and led to Christ thereby, or that we were gaining
the strength and development wliich would soon enable
us to do our duty to the heathen world, l^or did he
make the slightest allowance for the fact that our
'^Iv^^t^Lv as an organized Christian community, was

I should be reaay years old when he was writing these

ference met, in Apri'.inst her.

colleagues to accompting that her progress in those

by the Corresponding om nothing up to her standing

From Boston to Bareilly. 77

in 1854, was a marvel of grace and progress such as
Cliristendom had never seen before, and for which a
good man might well be glad and bless God, he, on
the contrary, seemed vexed and distressed at the de-
velopment of this youngest member of the evangelical
family, so unjustly taunted by his comparison. lie
overlooked the fact that his own denomination, when
it was only seventy years old, had not done one haK as
much for home or foreign missions as the Methodist
Clmrch had in the same time. He ignored the unex-
ampled liberality of this young Church in the resources
which she had developed to build her houses of w^or-
ship, her parsonages, schools, and colleges, and other
institutions over this wide land, with all of which ap-
pliances his own denomination had been supplied for
nearly two hundred years, and, therefore, his com-
parisons were wanting in Christian candor, and un-
fair before God and man. He also ignored the
fact that our denomination was, even then, standing
at the head of all the American Churches in efforts
for the evangelization of the heathen Indians, hav-
ing more stations, missionaries, church members, and
scholars than any of them. (See " Newcomb's Cyclo-
paedia of Missions," p. 626.)

How sad it seems to quote to-day the words of this
angry man, when he had the temerity to charge us
with wasting missionary money at home, " in secta-
rian rivalry that added nothing to the Christian life
of the land I "

78 Fkom Boston to Bakeilly.

It is also monitory to remember now, that, despite
all the talk of the time, of '*' Christian Union " and
" Evangelical Alliance," the reckless charges of this
man, instead of being rebuked, were eagerly taken up
and reiterated by some professors and editors of liis
own Church, and our ministry and people in many
places were taunted by their neighbors, who were
simple enough to suppose the charges were true be-
cause such men repeated them so confidently. These
reckless and uncharitable writers would not thank me
were I here to quote their names and the harsh utter-
ances to which they so eagerly committed themselves
against the Methodist people. Enough, that their
Master and ours was so soon to roll away these re-
proaches and vindicate us on this ground, also, as a
true Church of Jesus Christ. But it made me trem-
ble to think, what justification they would have found
for their stinging invectives had the catastrophe oc-
curred which Dr. Durbin feared when he wrote that
final appeal, in 1855, entitled -'The Crisis!" Had we
really failed, and abandoned the project of a mission
to India for want of a suitable man to lead the way,
then, indeed, Parsons Cooke and those who echoed his
charges would have made the severest use of the fact
to our disgrace and annoyance. God alone can know
what the depressing effect would have been upon the
missionary spirit of our Church for many years after-
ward, or how long it would have been ere we could
have recovered ourselves and stood where it is our

From Boston to Bareilly. 79

joy and honor to stand to-day upon this question
before Christendom and before God.

But we may venture to predict that Parsons Cooke's
" Centuries " will not be much read during the mil-
lennium, while it is a comfort to think that he has,
ere this, witnessed arrivals in the heavens, the gath-
ered fruits of Methodist missions from India and
otlier heathen lands, which have amply convinced even
him that he greatly mistook the spirit and purpose of
the Methodist Church when he undertook to w^rite
these volumes !

Two of our children were then beyond the age
when it is considered to be safe and proper, on ac-
count of growth, education, and moral influence, to
have them in India. To meet this difficult}^ was, in
our case, a heavy cross that only they know who have
had to bear it. It is a wound that seldom heals in a
parent's heart, but of which missionaries generally
say but little, lest they be misunderstood. Yet it is
a sorrow in which, no doubt, they have the special
sympathy of Him for w^hom the sacrifice is made. In
this case the cross was more weighty from our not hav-
ing relatives on this side of the Atlantic with whom
they could be left. They had to be intrusted to the
care of strangers, whose interest in them had to be
paid for. We had been led to hope for other arrange-
ments, while we met the necessary expenses, where
a sympatlietic and Christian interest would have been
secured for them ; but all failed, and at last the day

80 Fkoi^ Boston to Bareilly.

of sailing drew so close that we had to accept the
best arrangement that seemed available, which was to
place them at a private school in Connecticut, in the
hands of strangers whom we had only corresponded
wuth, but had not seen, until the evening when we
went to place our darlings in their hands.

We had some reproaches to bear from a few who,
if we could judge from their remarks, would not
resign a child of theirs in order to save any number
of human souls. Of course such people could have
little sympathy with "the Father of mercies," who,
in man's great extremity, " spared not his own Son,
but freely delivered him up for us all" — gave him
up to a poverty where he '* had not vliere to lay his
head," and to sacrifice and suffering for sin in which
*^ he poured out his soul unto death, and made inter-
cession for the transgressors." In the yearnings of
our own hearts, and amid these remarks by such
mistaken friends, there came to our aid the appro-
priate and sympathizing promise, " There is no man
that hath left house, or parents, or brethren, or
wife, or children^ for the kingdom of God's sake,
who shall not receive manifold more in this present
time, and in the world to come life everlasting." To
this blessed promise we clung both then and when far
away, while our hearts ached as we thought of them.
One of these dear boys we were not to see again on
earth, as he died four years after we left him. Yet
now, twenty-seven years since that cross was lifted for

Fkom Boston to Bareilly. 81

Jcsus's sake, and amid the blessed results, with four
of our children, we trust, in lieaven and the other four
on earth in the Church of their parents, and some of
these also honored and useful in the same holy work,
we feel that God has been true to his promise — we
have received the " hundred-fold more in the present
time," and are willing to compare our experience with
any of those whose thoughtless words gave us pain in
this matter of resigning our children in 1856.

In the preparation of this review of the circum-
stances through which we were called to pass, in the
founding and development of our mission in India, I
cannot be too grateful that God put it into my heart
to rescue my notes and letter books when, on the
night of the escape from Bareilly, I had so hurriedly
to fly and leave nearly every thing else in our home
to the torch of the Sepoy. The help to me is very
great. Had I to trust merely to my memory now I
should have to write watli great hesitancy of the re-
markable scenes through which we were called to pass.
But, with these books and old letters and journals in
my hands, I can live it all over again, and see and
compare it safely and accurately. Truly has the poet
said :

" Sounds which address the ear are lost and die
In one short hour ; while that which strikes the eye
Lives long upon the mind; the faithful sight
Graves 't on the memory with a beam of light."

My work in the preparation of the articles on the
" Missions of English and American Methodism," for

82 FiioM Boston to Bakeilly.

Newcomb's CyclopcBdia of Missions^ had to be con-
cluded before we sailed. This threw an additional
burden upon weeks that were already sufficiently
crowded with the cares and duties wliich the new
condition of things had brought. But at length dil-
igent toil conquered the situation, and our prepara-
tions were completed in time for the meeting of the
Annual Conference.

On the 8th of April, 1856, we went to Salem
to take our farewell of the Conference, over which
Bishop Janes was presiding. We knew, and were
persuaded, tliat the loving sympathies and prayers of
these dear brethren would follow us to the last. It
made me feel strong that I enjoyed their generous
confidence for tlie peculiar and difficult duties which
I had undertaken. Though neitlier they nor we
could then imagine the " great light of affiictions "
into the very center of which they were pending us,
nor the dark clouds of heathen cruelty which were so
completely to envelop us after our arrival, that for
many weary months they were to fear we were no
longer among the living! Like that father of the
faithful, who, " when he was called to go out into a
place which he should after receive for an inheritance,
obeyed, not knowing wliither he went," so our sim-
ple duty was obedience, and our confidence was trust
in the same divine guidance. We " knew not what
things might befall us there ; " but we knew our
Guide, and that was sufficient. Enough that lie

From Boston to Bareilly. 83

knew, and had challenged our confidence in the
words, " Lo, I am with you alway, even unto the end
of the world." It was not only sufficient, but even
best, that we should not know in advance. Far better
to wait and work on in the duty assigned us, assured
that as our day so our strength should be.

That night the farewell meeting was held in my
church in Lynn. It was a crowded and memorable
meeting. H. Y. Degan presided. A. D. Merrill
offered the opening prayer. Dr. M. L. Scudder was
the first speaker, his theme being " The Nature and
Necessity of the Missionary Cause." He was fol-
lowed by Dr. Jesse T. Peck on " The Grand Idea of
the Missionary Work." Then Dr. Durbin rose and
traced " The Divine Hand in the Inception of this
Mission to India" (though how much of his theme was
still unknown, even to him, these pages show). Turn-
ing to me, as we stood there together in the pulpit,
he gave me a charge on confidence in divine guid-
ance, and then handed me my letter of instructions,
my passport, and a letter of credit, and closed his ad-
dress with much feeling, saying, " My brother, we
give 3'ou a large discretion in the duty you have to
fulfill for us." He then paused and exclaimed, " I
long to live to see this mission to India firmly estab-
lished T'

Next morning they accompanied us on board the
ship at East Boston, and exactly at nine o'clock the
Canada let go her moorings and passed away out on

84 From Boston to Baeeilly.

her eastern course, my wife and myself, and our two
little ontft, waving onr adieus from her deck. Up to
the last Dr. Durbin had hoped he would be able to
send at least one young minister with me, but we
had to go alone. He promised, however, to send him
immediately after us, so that he might overtake us in
London and accompany us to India. But, for reasons
which are now apparent, God controlled all action of
this kind till the proper time had come for sending
them after me. It was an omen of good to us, a few
hours after leaving port, as we were arranging our
surroundings for the night, to hear the sound of
prayer from the adjoining state-room. Two voices,
one after the other, pleaded with God for his provi-
dential care over our ship and all that it contained ;
and they added, what is so appropriate for Christians
when traveling, that the Lord might grant that they
should "grow in grace on the voyage, and be brought
back again in the possession of a full salvation." How
good rtmt sounded, and in such a place ! We soon
made the acquaintance of our praying neighbors, and
found them to be Methodists from Canada. Their
fellowship added much to the interest of the voyage.

Fbom Boston to Bareillt. 85

CHAPTER III.

" But I write the more boldly unto you in some measure, as putting
you again in remembrance, because of the grace that was given me
of God, that I should be a minister of Christ Jesus unto the Gentiles.
. . . Yea, making it my aim so to preach tlie Gospel, not where
Christ was already named, that I might not build upon another man's
foundation ; but, as it is written,

They shall see, to whom no tidings of him came,
And they who have not heard shall understand."

—St. Paul. (Rev. Ver.)

My letter of instructions, drawn by Dr. Durbin
and countersigned by Bishop Simpson, directed me,
on our arrival in London, to seek for all such infor-
mation as would be useful to me in the duties which
I had to fulfill. I found much courtesy from the sec-
retaries of the different missionary societies in that
city whom I consulted, especially in regard to those
portions of India which were as yet unoccupied by any
Christian agency, as well as about matters of finance,
administration, and missionary policy, on which I
needed information, so as to be better able to under-
stand what might occur in my own administration.
I found among these gentlemen a hearty appreciation
of the help which America was sending to aid them
in the evangelization of British India, and fervent
hopes were expressed that our success might be very
abundant.

86 Feom Boston to Baeeilly.

Dr. Dnrbin's solicitude was following us all the
time. He "Wrrote to me nine days after I sailed. He
was evidentl}^ anxious lest I should become discour-
aged by his failure to lind at least one man to go on
with me from London. I may be excused in quoting
his words on this subject. He says :

" I hasten to say to you, Brother has finally

declined. I am surprised and grieved at this. I have

w^ritten to Brother , but am not sanguine of the

results. ... I will give you a steady and hearty
support. Be of good courage, and let those yet to
come say, * William Butler founded this mission.' . . .
I hope to see Bishop Simpson next week in Cincin-
nati, and I will do all I can to send you two assistants.
I will in due time look to the interests of your chil-
dren. Be of good cheer. Give our kind regards and
the assurance of our prayers to Sister Butler, and
may God bless and preserve you all, and give you
success in your great undertaking."

The solicitude shown by Dr. Durbin was so often
and variously expressed that I presume it was caused
by his apprehensions that our courage might not be
fully sustained when we came to face the real difficul-
ties of the heathenism which we were to encounter,
and especially being thus left alone to face them, as,
also, that the yearnings of our hearts for the darling
boys left behind in strange hands might weaken our
purpose to persevere in the sacrifice we had made. It
could be no premonition of the fearful dangers into

From Boston to Bareilly. 87

the midst of wliich we were unconsciously steering.
But, I am grateful to say, we felt no fear, nor did our
purpose falter for a* moment. The consecration to
our work was complete, and our trust in the care and
guidance of God unhesitating.

Having completed our outfit of books and clothing
in London, and gained all the information available,
we left Southampton docks on the 20th of August,
1856, in the steam-ship Pera^ and, when a few miles
down the Solent, we met and passed the consort ves-
sel of the same line, the Eijpon^ just arriving from
Calcutta. The news was passed around that " she
had on board the Dowager Queen of Oude." Beyond
the singularity of the fact that this was the first
time an Indian queen had ever crossed the ocean, we
paid no heed to her coming to London. But how
much the eye of God above saw in the fact, as we
passed her, is intimated in the L(jmd of the Veda. I
had left behind me in London, Azeemoolah, the vakeel
of the Nana Sahib, and he and she represented the
two forces that were so soon to combine, and, with
fire and blood, to render my mission nugatory, by
sweeping every thing English and Christian from the
soil of India ! Before I reached Alexandria they had
both received the refusal of the English government
to their proposals, and soon returned to India to
work out the fanatical purposes which they had so
cleverly concealed from those with whom they had
been negotiating.

88 From Boston to Bareilly.

After crossing the Bay of Biscay and passing the
Pillars of Hercules, we reached smoother water, and
social intercourse began. At that time Bishop Co-
lenso's vagaries were subjects of discussion, especially
his pamphlet about polygamy being scriptural, so that
he declared he would admit to the Church and to the
communion table a convert from heathenism, with all
his wives ! He berated the missionaries for declining
to accept his doctrine or follow his lead. Some of
our gentlemen passengers undertook to defend the
Bishop's views, and we had a lively discussion over
the subject until it was closed by one of our number
pressing the gentleman who defended the abomina-
tion with the legitimate result of it, and demanding
to know why polyandry should exclude from the
table of the Lord if polygamy did not ? If the right
to communion was conceded to a man with his four
or five wives, why not to a woman with her four or
five husbands ? Both unnatural and guilty conditions
exist in India, though the latter is coming to an end.
But here our opponent backed out, with the easy
remark, " O that is a different thing," and there the
discussion ended.

We have abundant reason to be grateful that our
mission from the very first, in common with evangel-
ical missions, has made no compromise with sin, but
has taken the high scriptural ground on this question,
as well as on that of caste, and has thus preserved
the peace and the purity of its churches.

From Boston to Bareilly. 89

An old traveler like myself, moving across the
world in tliese days, is constantly reminded of the
changes and improvements that are taking place, and
which are qnietly revolutionizing the civilization and
methods in which people had such confidence only a
few years ago. How easy it would be to note scores
and hundreds of these facts, but our limits forbid re-
ferring to them, except very occasionally, in view of
the more important matters for which our pages are
reserved. This modern idea of iron ships, which are
steered so accurately by steam instead of the weak
human hand — the loading and unloading — the trim-
ming of sails — the weighing of the anchor— all done
so easily by the same mighty agency, and thus reduc-
ing the number of men necessary to work a vessel to
about one lialf of those formerly required, stands
prominently out among tliese groat improvements.
Formerly England boasted of her " wooden walls,"
the " hearts of oak," of which her men-of-war and
her merchant marine were made. But her poets no
longer sing, as Pope did in days of yore,

"Let India boast her palms, nor envy we
The weeping amber and the balmy tree,
While by our oaks the precious loads are borne,
And realms commandod which those trees adorn."

The gigantic strength and remarkable longevity of
this pride of the British forests, which has done so
much for England's exaltation among the nations, is

90 Fkom Boston to Bakeilly.

landed by Dryden with equal coinplacencj, when lie
writes :

" The monarch oak, the patriarch of the trees,
Shoots rising up, and spreads by slow degrees;
Three centuries he grows, and three he stays
Supreme in state, and in three more decays."

But were these two poets to rise from the dead, few
things would amaze them more than to find how
nearly antiquated these objects of their boastings
have become ; nor would they be less amazed on be-
holding the colossal proportions and rapid speed of
the iron structures which have superseded their be-
loved but slow-saihng and diminutive "oaks."

On the morning of the fifteenth day we cast anchor
in the harbor of Alexandria, and here begins at
once that capability of comparison and contrast which
a former visit, at an interval of twenty-seven years,
enables us to make from this onward, showing tliat,
not merely in progressive America, but even in the
sluggisli and conservative East, the spirit of improve-
ment is abroad, and the world is being lifted up to a
better life ; that even wars and commotions, commer-
cial rivalry and the love of gain, are all made tributary
by the Almiglity providence in bringing forward that
better state of things for which good men have been
so long praying, and which together constitute the
beneficent dawn of that day when the sun of right-
eousness shall rise on every land, " with healing in his
wings," bringing peace to earth and good-will to men.

Fjrom Boston to Bareilly. 91

No item of truth or blessing can ever be perma-
nently lost to this world while God governs it. Its
advocates may die, and its example and facts pass
from the memory of living men, but the guardianship
of God will be over its life and its future, and, like
tlie grain in the hand of the mummies of this land,
the sunlight, and "the scent of water," will revive
the power that has lain dormant for a thousand years,
while a harvest of good, that might fill the world
with fruit, may spring forth from it. One of these
seeds was planted in this city over eighteen hundred
years ago, and was soon afterward lost to view. But
its feeble tradition came down the ages to the times
of John Wesley, and his earnest and practical mind
saw, in the constitution of the Church of Alexandria,
a primitive episcopacy that was safe, and free from
all sacerdotalism and prelacy, deriving its just powers
from a synod of presbyters, whose executive it was,
primus inter spares. He saw and approved that
efficient and brotherly idea of the Christian ministry,
and resolved to plant it in the virgin soil of the New
World. The Methodist Episcopal Church is the har-
vest that has grown from that Egyptian seed. No
"lordship over God's heritage " — no ecclesiastical des-
potism or hierarchal assumptions — can flourish in its
presence.

Had Alexandria only been faithful to the divine
idea, her glory would not have departed ; nor would
the crescent of the Arabian antichrist be floating

02 Fkom Boston to Bakeilly.

to-day from her flag-staffs, the symbol of a nation that
has, in the just judgment of God, sunk to be " the
basest of kingdoms." One of her presbyters apos-
tatized from Trinitarian Christianity, broke the peace
of God in Christendom, and introduced the heresy
that still bears his name. Mohammedanism came in
and dominated over a Christianity once so glorious
in faith and government, but which had then sunk so
low as to deny the divinity of " the Lord that bought
them." The Methodist Episcopal Church ouglit, ere
long, to plant again in Alexandria tlie polity which
she there found, and the faith " once delivered to the
saints," which would soon restore Egypt to God, and
fulfill the merciful predictions which the Lord Jeho-
vah has left to her as " a door of hope." He has
expressly declared, " For they shall cry unto the Lord
because of the oppressors, and he shall send them a
saviour, and a great one, and he shall deliver them.
And the Lord shall smite Egypt : he shall smite and
heal it : and they shall return even to the Lord, and
he shall be entreated of them, and shall heal them."
" Princes shall come out of Egypt ; Ethiopia shall soon
stretch out her hands unto God." (Isa. xix, 20, 22 ;
Psa. Ixvii, 31.) How severely she has been smitten,
during the past two thousand years, is well known.
But the tide has turned at last. The " healing " pro-
cess has begun. Across her territory now runs the over-
land route to India. Telegraphs and railroads stretch
through her great valley. Her Suez Canal bears the

FiiOM Boston to Bareilly. 93

immense commerce of the Eastern world, the Fresh
Water Canal is extending irrigation and fertility to
the south. Schools and Christian missions have
come in to consummate the blessed cure, and God
has taken guarantees, through her debt and the conse-
quent English influence, with its control of Moham-
medan despotism, that the fanaticism of her cruel
creed shall not arrest the healing effects which Chris-
tianity has introduced. No land has known deeper
guilt before God, or passed through severer punish-
ment for it ; and, doubtless, we may expect that the
mercy and grace predicted for her " will much more
abound ; " for He, whose promises are as certain as his
threatenings, has predicted concerning her, " Whom
tlie Lord of hosts shall bless, saying. Blessed be Egypt,
my people."

!N'early all these evidences of the transition which is
now passing over the land of the Nile hav€ been in-
augurated since we were here before, and the increase
of population under this improvement is remarkable.
In Egypt propel*, without her dependencies, there
were, according to the census in 1847, a population
of 4,542,620 ; in 1875 there were 5,500,000, but Sir
Auckland Colin's census, taken last year, gives
6,798,230. Cairo has now a population of 368,108 ;
Alexandria, 208,775 ; Port Said, 16,560 ; and Suez,
10,913. This advance intimates a great future ; while
her fertility can again be made what it was when
Rome conquered Egypt to make it the granary of

94 Fkom Boston to Bareilly.

Southern Europe. It may be tliat more than lier for-
mer glorj awaits tins land, once the cradle of arts and
sciences, when she shall " rise and shine " because her
light has come, and the glory of the Lord has risen
upon her.

In 1856, w^hen we left Alexandria for Cairo, to
cross the desert to Suez, they were making the last
section of the railroad. We rested midday for lunch
at the crossing of the IS^ile — and that luncli was some-
thing to remember, from the swarms of flies which
surrounded us. The moment the cloth was lifted off
the food they boldly settled down in millions upon
every morsel of it, until it became black with them !
They seemed fearless, and were not to be wliisked
away. We looked on with amazement, and the ques-
tion arose. Was the fourth plague of Egypt reinflict-
ed ? We had evidence enough that the third had
never been removed. But those flies ! only by the
most desperate efforts could the hungry crowd of pas-
sengers secure their food, cutting it up as hastily as
possible, and then, while the left hand was kept busy
fanning them off the plate, the other conveyed the
morsels to the mouth ; and, even then, the nasty gray
pests dared to follow the food to the very lips. Tlie
poor children, not as active as their elders in manag-
ing matters, cried with vexation. It was truly a mis-
erable meal. What made the aspect more repulsive
was the constant presence of ophthalmia ; every third
person seemed to have it. It was fearful to see the

Fbom Boston to Baeetlly. 95

native children, as they were carried astride the shoul-
ders of their careless and dirty mothers, with these
abominable flies in a complete black circle round each
eye, sucking the edge of the lid ; and then to think
how easily the terrible and painful disease could be
spread from one to another by the feet of these active
agents of filth and impurity ! How truly expressive
was the divine description that came to our remem-
brance there, " The land was corrupted by reason of
the swarms of flies."

Christian purity alone can deliver Egypt from the
burden of this and the other plague. Mohammed-
anism and heathenism cannot and does not, either
here or anywhere else. Poor Egypt ! she needs the
cleanliness which only godliness can give her.

Another relic of the past was before us as we sat
and fought for our uninviting food. Gangs of men,
w^omen, and children were carrying clay on their
heads in baskets to form the road-bed of the railway.
Over these was an Egyptian " task-master," dressed
very gaudily, and in his hand a whip with a long lash.
He stood midway from where the earth was taken up
to where it was deposited. His eye was busy watch-
ing every individual of that toiling throng, and if he
saw one of them lagging for a moment he noted it,
but said nothing till that poor creature next came
Imrrying past him, when out would fly that long lash,
winding around the naked body and leaving its cruel
mark. He thus struck several of the poor girls, and

96 Fkom Boston to Bareilly.

kept them all going in a very lively fasliion ; but
what abject fear and misery were in their faces as
they were thus driven in their enforced toil.

In some such style, and not many miles from this
very spot, about thirty-four hundred years ago, might
be witnessed many similar '' task-masters " goading a
race of foreigners reduced to slavery ; and " they made
their lives bitter with hard bondage," till Abraham's
God could endure it no longer, and appeared for their
emancipation. " The Lord said, I have surely seen
the affliction of my people which are in Egypt, and
have heard their cry by reason of their task-masters ;
for I know their sorrows ; and I am come down to
deliver them out of the hand of the Egyptians," If
it were proper to reserve sympathy from any who are
oppressed — which it is not — it might surely be done
here. These are Egyptians, the descendants of those
selfish tyrants who grievously oppressed their fellow-
creatures ; but now their own turn has come, and Abra-
ham Lincoln's doctrine receives another illustration,
so that every groan and drop of blood drawn by the lash
of those primitive slaveholders from the bodies of the
Hebrew race has been answered by another from the
bodies of their own descendants by tlie despots of the
past and the dynasty of the present, these Albanian
foreigners, who all alike have pursued their own ag-
grandizement by enforced labor, and by loading the
long-suffering nation with debts that seem too colossal
for redemption under their present miserable civili-

Fkom Boston to Bareilly. 97

zation. But if Christian lionestj can obtain a fair
cliance to free these finances from the control of the
debauched and self -aggrandizing hands which have so
long manipulated tliem, Egypt's credit may rise again,
and her afflicted people be lightened of their load.

That evening after sunset we entered " Grand
Cairo," as it used to be called. How quickly we
realized that we were then standing in " The Gate of
the Orient," and amid the scenes where the "Arabian
Nights' Entertainments " originated ! Early the fol-
lowing morning, as we came out on the balcony of the
hotel, that wonderful vision, which h never forgotten
by any who is privileged to see it, rose up before us,
for there were the Pyramids ! Old Egypt was looking
us in the face, or, as Napoleon I. put it, as his army
halted beneath their shadows : " Soldiers, forty cent-
uries are gazing down upon you ! " But our visit to
them had to come at a later date, and when we had
more leisure to enjoy it.

At eight o'clock A. M. we had to start on our jour-
ney across the desert, eighty-four miles to Suez on
the Ked Sea. The camels, bearing the mails, the
specie, and passengers' luggage (for freight then
went round the Cape of Good Hope, in sailing ves-
sels), had left twenty-four hours in advance of us,
and were now ahead.

Our passenger caravan was made up of a long line
of two-wheeled shigrams, each holding about six per-
sons. The long pole was swung upon the w^heelcrs.

98 Feom Boston to Bakeilly.

four mules were attached, and these were kept at a
moderate gallop, so that the wheels might sink as
little as possible in the sand (for road there was
none). But how can one do justice to this peculiar
equipage and its effects upon the passengers ! It was
not quite as bad as riding upon a camel, but it was
tlie next thing to that, with some inconveniences of
its own added. The tall wheels flung up the sand
and dust in a flying cloud that half suffocated us;
then the vehicle rose and fell with the movement of
the wheel mules, and swayed from side to side by its
own momentum. Add the heat of early September
in the desert to this, and our condition may be im-
agined. We endured it as well as we could till we
suddenly drew up under a tree, an acacia, called " the
desert-tree," positively the only tree between Cairo
and Suez, and this was half-way. The lunch was
laid out for us, and, now that the disagreeable double
motion had ceased, and the dust no longer rose, and
the wretched flies were forty miles behind us, with
the delightful air of the desert, so elastic and inspir-
ing, we felt disposed to improve the opportunity with
which our hosts, the Peninsular and Oriental Com-
pany, had provided us. They showed that, by the
aid of six patient camels which had gone ahead of us,
they could " spread a table in the wilderness." There
was not an object in sight all round to the horizon,
save the long line of camels which we had passed a
few minutes before, and the Khedive's palace half a

Fkom Boston to Bareilly. 99

mile to the left. His highness had taken a notion
some time before to have a palace in the desert, where
he could have perfect solitude when he chose. But
every item of it, stones and all, had to be carried
across a trackless waste of sand, over the intervening
forty -four miles! Yet it was done, and finished in
grand style, and when completed it was soon almost
forgotten by the man at whose order the immense
expense was incurred. The people to be pitied are
the servants who are left in charge of this palace.
They might as well be behind iron bars as there.
Far better to be on Alexander Selkirk's island, for
there they could walk about and see something green,
but these wretched prisoners have only that one tree
to look at, and probably could not find their way over
those sands to either Cairo or Suez without a guide.

As we sat at our meal the long line of camels came
up and passed on with their burdens. Each group
was in the special care of a responsible sheik, with
drivers under him. How that cavalcade recalled
the description of the "Midianite merchantmen" to
whom Joseph was sold to be carried into this very
Egypt.

We had the curiosity to count the camels as they
passed by, and found there were seven hundred of
them — yet there was not a pound of freight, nothing
but passengers, luggage, the mail bags, and the specie
— " pieces of silver," truly. Eor nearly all this half
century, the silver dug in the mines of Mexico has

100 From Boston to Bakeilly.

gone regularly once a montli (now fortnightly) to
London, where it is purchased and sent on to the East
for exchange. It is minted again in Calcutta for use
in India, and the rest goes farther east, where, being
already known, they are valued above all other silver
coins; so that Mexico supplies India, China, and
Japan with their currency. Bank-notes were then
unknown in India, and gold is doubted by a people
without education, and who fear being deceived, but
silver they think they are safe in accepting, and all
payments must be made in that metal to the multi-
tudes. Our seven hundred camels were all needed,
and it is likely there was over a million dollars in
that caravan. What a prize for the wild Bedouins to
swoop down upon! But the East India Company
(for the miserable Turkish government could not hold
them in check for a single week), by the concession of
a sort of blackmail, and employing the very sheiks
themselves, at a constant compensation, to guide this
treasure to Suez, makes it more profitable to them to
be honest than to live by plunder.

After an hour's rest we started again, but found
that the motion (as in palanquin riding) was much
more disagreeable after eating than before. As the
time rolled on the effects grew worse, until the sys-
tem became disagreeably relaxed, and we learned the
full meaning of " the desert sickness " — in some re-
spects worse than that endured at sea. How we
longed for Suez and a glass of water! At length.

Fkom Boston to Baeeilly. 101

as the sun began to decline, we saw tlie little town
ahead, and the Ked Sea beyond it. Sweeping round,
we passed "Joseph's Well," and in a few minutes
more drew up at the door of the hotel. Instantly
came the cry for " water." Every one pleaded for
it, and especially the ladies of the party. I hur-
ried up the Egyptian waiter, and the precious
fluid came, and was poured out and handed. But O
such water for sick people ! It was muddy and
tepid, and was promptly rejected, and the man
abked how he could offer such water to ladies. He
declared he had no other. I insisted he must run to
the well we had passed and bring a fresli supply that
would be cool and nice. But he answered,

" Sir, that water is not fresh, it is brackish."

" Well, go where this came from and bring some
of that, and be alive about it."

The poor fellow looked at me and replied,

" Why, sir, there is no fresh water here ; not a
drop."

Amazed, I asked him,

" Then where did you get thiSy- which is fresh, if it
is not drinkable ? "

" Sir, it came from the Nile."

"How?"

" In skin bottles, on the backs of camels."

No wonder it was muddy and warm, and that our
desire for such a beverage ceased at once. Such was
Suez in 1856, and such the supply of one of life's

102 Feom BosToi^ TO Bareilly.

first necessities for tlie sixteen hundred people then
residing there. 'Not a drop of fresh water wil:hin
more than eighty miles, and the whole of that dis-
tance a bed of hot and trackless sand, across which
these skin " bottles " had toiled for four days, in the
raging heat, on the camels' backs.

In approaching Alexandria I intimated that even
the sluggish and conservative East was feeling the
thrill of our Christian civilization, and beginning to
rise from the misery and helplessness of the long-
suffering past. What an illustration of this does
Suez itself present on this second visit of ours. Now
we return, and Suez has risen to the rank of a little
city, with its ten thousand nine hundred and twelve
people, and gardens and orchards are flourishing. A
railway connects it with Alexandria and Cairo, and
piers and docks and light-house have risen, as by
magic, out of the barren sands. The Suez Canal now
connects the waters of the Mediterranean with those
of the Eed Sea, and ships of various nations pass
Suez almost every hour between sunrise and sunset.
That canal is yielding its stockholders the largest
dividends of any enterprise on earth. The steamer
in which we sailed, drawing twenty-seven feet and
nine inches, pays over £1,100 toll ($5,500) each time
she goes through it. To crown all, the same Chris-
tian civilization has dug a second canal beside the
first to lead in the fresh water, so that tlie excellent
water of the Nile now flows in abundance the whole

From Boston to Bareilly. 103

way to Suez, and is beginning to " make tlie desert
blossom as the rose." These facts amaze these Ish-
maelite races, and well they may, for tliey are the
miracles of modern civilization, of which Moham-
medanism and heathenism never dreamed, and of
which they are, and would always remain, destitute,
if the races that have accepted " the Prophet of Naz-
areth " did not come and originate them.

"What a world this could be made, and will be
made, if Christianity gets control of it ! Surely
paradise can be restored. It has not been in vain
that humanity has waited long for Christian civiliza-
tion to appear and end her religious uncertainties, to
give her peace, and terminate all her preventable sor-
rows. How these scenes here prove that Christianity
has the " promise of the life which now is," and as well
as of " that which is to come." Even here, on this,
the most forbidding and difficult spot on earth, she
has conquered deficiencies of nature that seemed in-
surmountable ; and, even in a temporal sense, fulfilled
the promise of Jehovah : " I give waters in the wil-
derness, and rivers in tlie desert, to give drink to my
people, my chosen." He did so, without the aid of
science, over three thousand years ago, across in that
very peninsula, in view of where these notes were
taken, opening a living stream in that desert for
their use ; and a traveler, as he goes over the world,
sees that, in proportion as men are " His chosen "
people, he grants them the inspirations of sanctified

104 Fkom Boston to Baeeilly.

intelligence to benefit themselves, and to bless the
world around them. So, that, when false religions
fold their hands and despairingly accept as inevitable
the miseries of life, our civilization, full of expe-
dients born of hope and faith,

'' Laughs at impossibilities,
And cries, It shall be done."

Thus, in cases like this, she builds her reservoirs, digs
her canals, or sinks her artesian wells, and so unseals
the rich supplies which make famines impossible, and
causes the valleys to sing for joy. She then creates
the railroad, and carries the superabundance to the
destitute parts of the land, keeps down famine prices,
and lets the hungry be fed.

These Mohammedans here, if their liouse takes
fire, will run out with a yell, sit right down on
the ground before it in despair, and helplessly look
on, abandoned to the conviction that, " if it was pre-
destined to be consumed, there is no use resisting
fate. Let it burn." Christianity, on the contrary,
implants different impulse. She invents the steam
fire engine, and the electric bell, and when the flame
breaks out, the Christian runs and tnrns on the alarm,
so help is at his door in five minutes, and life and
property are saved. The other civilization is not
worthy to live. It is doomed to die, and Christianity
alone deserves to be exalted in the earth ; yet these
are but a part of that mighty measure of blessings

Fkom Boston to Bakeilly. 105

for body and soul, for things temporal and spiritual,
for the poor and downtrodden, which the true sons
of God are toiling and contending to win for our
race, in order to make them all the common heritajre
of every creature under heaven. Such men fling
trembling cowardice and inglorious ease to the winds,
and know well whose they are and whom they serve.
And, as sure as God is God, they will never relax
their diligence till the work is done, and their disin-
terested devotion is crowned with universal victory.
Well may they continue to challenge each other's
valor in the unflinching conviction that " the great-
ness of the kingdom under the whole heaven shall be
given to . . . the saints of the Most High," and sing,
as they do :

" 0, who would not a champion be

In tliis the lordlier chivalry ?

Uprouse ye, then, brave brother band,

With honest heart and working hand ;

0, there be those wlio ache to see

The day-dawn of our victory:

Work, brothers, work ; work hand and brain ;

We'll win the golden age again.

We will, we will, brave champions be

In this the lordlier chivalry."

In this blessed expectation all good men have been
toiling and struggling, but have died ere the fruition
came, thougb they exulted to witness every element
in motion, material as well as intellectual and spir-
itual, that seemed to tend to that grand result. We,

106 Fkom Boston to Baeeilly.

to-daj, in our wider opportunity, are the inheritors of
the past, and yet heirs of all the future. For we
are reaping where they have sown ; and in this sense,
too, may it be said, " God having provided some
better thing for us, that they without us should not
be made perfect."

But, let us return to the poor helpless waiter who
stood there with that rejected water-jar and the gob-
lets in his hands. He and his brothers of the desert
might think this good enough ; possibly not one of
them had ever tasted of " a living spring " or of
"water out of the stony rock." But we had, and
knew by experience what it was, and that this was
not at all like it; yet what could we do in that dry
and thirsty land, where no water then was? 'No
wonder the Holy Scriptures — an Oriental book, and
full of Eastern scenes and allusions — speaks so fre-
quently and so feelingly, too, of the need and value
of this precious element, or that our blessed Lord
puts the "cup of cold water" among the charities
that he will reward at last. (Matt, x, 42.) The
people of India call the water-carrier a BihishtL
from Bihisht, paradise ; a beautiful name for his
vocation, styling him a distributer of heaven's
bounty! How gladly we would have recognized his
title had he put in an appearance at that hour
with his mashk of clear cool water from a Bareilly
well!

But to sit there any longer, and be tantalized by

From Boston to Baeeilly. 107

the sight of that jar of muddy, lukewarm water, was
too much for our sick and feverish condition, so, in
hope of finding something more suitable on board
our steamer, we took up our hand baggage, and
started for the pier, w^here the little tender was wait-
ing to convey us three miles down the Eed Sea, to
wliere the great vessel lay at anchor. The tender
seemed to. take us very slowly ; but, at length, w^e
reached there and hurried up the ladder, for the mo-
ment forgetting the water, in our anxiety to secure
state-rooms equivalent in position to those which
w^e occupied on board the consort ship, which we
left at Alexandria.

As we hurried into the saloon in this search, what
was our surprise and deh'ght to see, standing before
us on the table, an immense glass basin, heaped up
with broken ice from Wenham Lake, and round it
stood decanters full of Ganges water, with tumblers
all ready, and a man waiting to serve. Bihishti,
" Heaven's bounty " truly ! The packages were
.pitched into the corner, state-rooms were forgotten,
and a grand rush made by tliat ravenous crowd for
the blessed beverage, provided so opportunely for us.
It was a sight to see that crowd as they stood round,
and with radiant faces, imbibed " heaven's nectar," as
they styled it.

But wliat a meeting of the past and present was
here, and what would Moses and the elders of Israel
have said if the scene liad been foretold to them !

108 Feom Boston to Baeeilly.

That, thirty three hundred years after tliey had
crossed through this sea, a great vessel of over four
thousand tons would lie at anchor about, or not far
from, the very place where they had crossed, and that
on board of her would be white-faced strangers fi'om
a continent of whose existence they were entirely
ignorant, but who would there be regaled with water
(not from the l^ile, or the Jordan, the nearest rivers,
but) from the Ganges, of which they never heard, and
that that water would be cooled by an article wliich
they never saw, solidified water, that would melt
away in an hour if exposed to such air, and yet that
perishable article would have preceded them from
their distant land a year before they left it and have
gone twice under the equator, on its way to Calcutta,
and again on its return, to meet them there, in the
Gulf of Suez, so that it would have touched the line
for the third time, and yet be in splendid condition
for their use after its long travel of twenty thousand
miles ! What a miracle of the future civilization of
the world would they have esteemed all this to be !
The manna in the wilderness would hardly have been
more wonderful than that congealed water on the
E-ed Sea.

The " Tudor Ice Company,*' of Boston, conferred
this boon upon India and the East, and, in blessing
others, were themselves blessed with a generous rec-
ompense. The cargo of ice paid amply for the re-
turn cargo of India's products. The ice became not

Feom Boston to Bakeilly. 109

merely a luxury, but also a medical agent in hospitals,
many physicians holding it to be a specific in certain
conditions of the cholera, and so a help in the saving
of hundreds of lives yearly. Eight years after this I
had an opportunity of testing its value, as I lay pros-
trate in an attack of the Asiatic cholera in the city of
Calcutta. For thirty-six hours after the attack began
the physicians attending me gave me nothing save
Dr. Collis Brown's Chloriodine dropped on broken
ice. The symptoms were controlled, and I was
saved.

The great ship weighed anchor next day and we
were off. The following morning, while putting
things to rights for the voyage, I was amazed to see
enter the state-room where I was a curious looking
animal as big as a cat, having a bushy tail as long
as his body, and a keen-looking eye, with a ferret-
like nose, as though made for poking into the narrow
places. He was perfectly self-possessed, but conde-
scended to glance up at me, with what intention I
could not know ; but I did not like his cynical looks,
and so sprung on to a chair and sung out for the
steward. The man came running to see what was the
matter, when I asked him what that creature there
was. He smiled quietly at my alarm and said ;

" That, sir, is a mongoose. You need not be
afraid."

Just then the mate of the mongoose came saunter-
ing in. But I hesitated to get down on the floor till

110 Fkom Boston to Baeeilly.

tlie man explained further. The mongoose is the
ichneumon, and is prized for its wonderful ability to
search out and kill all sorts of snakes, rats, and ver-
min of that class, which abound in the East. People
in India try to domesticate them for this most useful
purpose, but the freedom that is necessarily conceded
to them, proves too much for their love of perfect
liberty, and, unlike the cat, which is true to her
home, they wander at length into the fields and do
not return. On being assured that these were per-
fectly harmless, and even liked to be noticed, I got
down and made the acquaintance of the larger one,
who had no timidity at all. He came on my invita-
tion and got up on my lap, and when I stroked him
he turned on his back, and was as happy as a kitten.
But he was a queer-looking creature to handle, and
soon went off to attend to the duties expected of
him.

The Bed Sea is nearly one thousand four hundred
miles long, and from twenty to two hundred miles
broad. I presume it is the hottest locality on earth,
where even double awnings wont sufficiently protect
you from the fierce heat overhead from 8 A. M. till
evening. More invalids die in that portion of the
voyage than in all the rest of the way from India to
England. There are light-houses only so far as the
English influence extends on the Egyptian side, but
on the Arabian side, and on that of JSTubia and Abys-
sinia, not a light is seen; so that for over six huP/

From Boston to Bareilly. Ill

dred miles the utmost precaution is necessary to es-
cape the dangers which the many islands and shoals
present, especially at night. Going down we passed
the port for Medina, where Mohammed died ; and
that for Mecca, toward which every Moslem sets his
face and directs his prayers when he performs his
devotions.

On the right hand we passed Suakim, the port of
the Soudan ; then came to Mocha, famed for its cof-
fee, and so on to the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb (the
Gate of Tears), so called originally, no doubt, from
the dangers of its navigation. "We saw four steamers
lying wrecked here and on the shores of the island
of Perim, in the middle of the passage. The voyage
from Suez to the Straits requires nearly a week.

Shortly after leaving Suez, the day being clear, we
had a sight of the range which includes Mount Sinai,
on which God came down in such terrible majesty to
give his holy law as the rule of life to men. What
reflections that sight awakened ! And now, as we
glide along by this ever-famous peninsula, where
the Almighty required his people to "remember
all the way " which he had led them for forty years
in the wilderness, let us look at this Letter of In-
structions, and see what is the duty which will begin
in a few days more, and will soon tax heart and brain
in its fulfillment for Him whose awful second Com-
mandment pealed out from this mount of God, amid
thunders and lightnings, against that fearful sin of

112 Fkom Boston to Baeeilly.

image-worship of the very people to whom we are
now going. They were then, and they are to-day, tlie
most flagrant transgressors of tliis law of that ** jeal-
ous God, who will not give his glory to another, nor
his praise to graven images ; " so that they have con-
tinued to multiply their " gods " until they now count
them by the million !
The letter thus opens :

" Eev. "William Butler :

*' Dear Brother : It hath pleased God, we believe,
to move you by his Holy Spirit to take upon you the
office and work of establishing a mission within the
jurisdiction of the British Empire in India, under the
patronage and support of the Missionary Society of
the Methodist Episcopal Church ; and we have re-
ceived from the Rev. Bishop Simpson, who has epis-
copal charge of said mission, a copy of the commis-
sion which he has issued to you, giving j^ou the pub-
lic authority of the Church to establish and superin-
tend the said mission. And the Bishop has directed
us to give you such instructions as are necessary to
enable you to accomplish your mission, according to
the conditions of the appointment."

I was then instructed to so arrange my journey
as to reach Calcutta between the 1st of September and
10th of October, and, in passing through London, to
seek from missionary secretaries and others all the

From Boston to Bareilly. 113

information available that would be likely to aid in
carrying out the duty assigned me. and also to do the
same on my arrival in Calcutta.

Three fields were suggested for special examina-
tion. The instructions ran,

1. " Take such counsel concerning the particular
field to be occupied as you may find and judge to be
friendly and reliable ; and in your inquiries we direct
your attention particularly to Eastern Bengal, a vast
and populous district lying to the north-east of Cal-
cutta, beyond the ancient city Dacca, toward the
mountains. This field, we understand, is unoccupied,
and is easily accessible ; and all the elementary books
of the language of the people are ready prepared for
the use of the missionary. If you find our informa-
tion correct touching this country, and there be no
counterbalancing difiiculties, we commend it to your
attention.

2. " But, before deciding on the selection of Eastern
Bengal, as suggested above, we wish you to inquire
particularly with respect to the Rohilla country, and
the regions lying still farther west and north-east.
Our information leads us to think favorably of the
north-west of India ; and the chief objection that
occurs to us, in reference to it, is, that it is more
generally supplied with missions than Eastern Bengal.

3. " And, in addition to these fields, you will give
attention and make special inquiries concerning the

Bellary country, lying on the north of Mysore ; and

8

114 Feom Boston to Baeeilly.

if jon find strong grounds to believe it is a more
promising field for our new mission, you are hereby
authorized to stop at Madras and make further in-
quiries ; and, if need be, go out in person and examine
the country. But we do not advise you to stop at
Madras, unless your previous inquiries shall strongly
confirm our present limited information in favor of
Bellary as the place for our new mission. We com-
mit this matter to your discretion after due inquiry."
The field selected, and, on report, approved by tlie
Board at home, I am next instructed as to the form
which the mission was to take, and what was to be its
special work. It says :

4. "In selecting the people among whom you will
establish our mission, we wish you to have reference
solely to the native jpajpulation. If there be a Euro-
pean population present in the country or city in
which you establish our mission, and the mission can
be made to serve their spiritual interests, we shall
consent and be glad ; provided such service does not
interfere with the execution of your mission among
the heathen. "We send you to preach the Gospel to
those who have not heard and do not hear it, and all
your plans must be devised with this end in view.

5. " This leads us to say, in all your plans for found-
ing and executing your mission, you will regard the
preaching of the word to the people as the principal
eflScient means of their awakening and conversion,
and all other means as only auxiliary to this great

From Boston to Bareilly. 115

efficient instrument ordained of God. The establish-
ment of schools, and the distribution of tracts and
books in and bj the mission, are subordinate to the
great design of the mission, which is, to preach the
word to the people by the living minister."

The letter then proceeds to deal with questions
of administration of the mission to be thus founded,
and* of its organization and correspondence. To all
this Bishop Simpson added his admonition: "Brother
Butler, lay deep and hroad foundations for Method-
ism in India P In the selection of a Held, I was
forbidden to enter "upon another man's line of things
made ready to our hand." We were to respect the la-
bors of those Christian brethren, going " where Christ
was not named," and there laying our own founda-
tions. There was little temptation to any unsectarian
Christian to do otherwise, in view of the many por-
tions of the land, w^ith millions of people to whom no
one had yet come with the Gospel. There was, there
is to-day, an abundant choice of unoccupied fields.
It is likely that even yet one half of the people of
India have never heard the offer of salvation through
Christ. The south, the sea -coast, and the great
cities, and along the lines of the leading thorough-
fares, are more or less occupied ; but the centers, the
dense populations of the agricultural regions, and
the multitudes in states ruled by native sovereigns,
are still without the Gospel. Of the two hundred
and sixty millions of people in India, perhaps

116 From Boston to Bakeilly.

not one half of them have yet seen the face of a
missionary, or ever heard the name of Him who died
for them ! It was easy enough to find unoccupied
fields. But I had to bear in mind that I was to select
a field where " broad and deep foundations " could be
laid — a wide field, as well as an unoccupied one, wide
enough to avoid being either divided up by a variety
of languages, so that we could not work connection-
allj^ or else be sandwiched in between existing mis-
sions, and so unable to expand adequately, and have
room for development into a Conference organiza-
tion, if God's good hand should prosper us to such a
result. The number of languages in India is so
many, that you can pass out oi one into another in
certain localities, within the space of two or tliree
hundred miles. It is not easy to say how many there
are, but twenty -three leading languages, and three
times as many more limited ones, are commonly al-
leged to be in use.

Another difficulty of selection lay in the fact, that
those who had preceded us in their explorations had
naturally sought the larger cities, even when tliey had
to pass over hundreds of miles from the last mission
to do so.

We, too, were anxious to have our share of such
great centers of life and influence, as well as to have
them in wide sweeps of the land, and yet in territory
entirely unoccupied by any other missions. I was
not aware, until I made the trial, how difficult it was

From Boston to Baeeilly. 117

to find all these advantages combined in sach a waj
as would stand the test of experience and time, and
yield entire satisfaction in the review a quarter of a
century later.

Nor was this all. It was essential that, in the field
chosen, our missionaries should not be located where
they could not freely communicate with each other,
and be visited with the regularity that our system
required. Neither was it then desirable that they
should be located in territories ruled by native
princes, and away from the protection of British offi-
cials. These, with other considerations that I need
not enumerate, led me to decide against such locali-
ties as Bellary, the Deccan, Kajpootana, and Dacca as
not the best for our purpose. Dacca at first seemed
desirable, but, when I came to examine its claim, I
found it situated in the delta of the Ganges, with the
great Brahmaputra on the other side, lying very low,
and intersected with scores of rivers and streams
that are all circuitous, and which in the rainy sea-
son swell and inundate the whole district like an
inland sea, so that from the middle of August to the
middle of October it becomes unhealthy. That
country is too much cut up to permit roads to be of
any use. Boats are the chief reliance, as in Burmah,
for moving about. But the delay and difficulty of
reaching from place to place is so great that, even
now, one can go from Calcutta to Bombay — fourteen
hundred miles — in less time than it requires to go

118 From Boston to Baeeilly.

from Calcutta to Dacca, although the latter is only
one hundred miles from the mouth of the Ganges.
The expense is corresponding to the loss of time. In
passing, I may remark that Dacca is famous for the
delicacy and beauty of its muslin, which is worn by
the upper classes of India, and, indeed, finds its way
as an article of luxury all over the world. Astonish-
ing statements are made of its manufacture. Here is
a sample, in regard to the spinning of the thread,
which has to be done with such amazing nicety that
the operation is performed with the fingers on a fine
steel spindle by young women who could only work
during the early part of the morning, while the dew
was on the ground ; for such was the extreme tenuity
of the fiber that it would not bear manipulation after
the sun had risen. From their fineness these muslins
were called Abrawan, or " flowing water," and Shab-
nam, or " evening dew."

Many other parts of the country were examined or
inquired about, but were declined for various reasons,
as not being what we most desired. There was a
peculiar feeling of sadness involved in visiting, and
then turning away from, the localities thus decided
against. Here were districts containing from one to
four millions of people, on whom we looked in our
search for the suitable field which we sought. It was
in each place within our discretion to say, " Here we
will settle and plant the Gospel among these people,"
so long sitting in darkness, and to whom for a day or

From Boston to Bareilly. 119

two the light had come at last ; or, we could say,
" No," and turn off, and take that light away with us,
leaving them again in darkness, feeling that another
generation would probably pass away ere any one
else would come, like us, searching for a new mission
field, to give light to these millions sitting " in the
shadow of death ! " It seemed something awful to
be invested with such a power, but it had to be exer-
cised till sufficient had been seen and considered to
make the comparison ; and then to select from among
them all the most suitable as the mission field to
whose evangelization our Church would devote her
means and energies.

As we went round, prospecting so anxiously and
prayerfully, we would occasionally meet with English
gentlemen, devoted servants of God in high position,
both in the civil and military departments of the gov-
ernment, who gladly welcomed us into their districts,
and used most earnest persuasion to have us termi-
nate our wanderings and settle down with their peo-
ple. Most liberal offers of pecuniary aid to the
mission to be established were held out. One of
these noble men, Mr. Tucker, Commissioner of the
Benares Division, made very special efforts to attract
the mission into his dominions. He seemed to antici-
pate that our work was going to have a grand devel-
opment, and he wanted to secure the blessing for his
people. But there was already, apart from the mis-
sions in the city of Benares, an Episcopal Mission at

120 Fkom BosToif TO Bareilly.

several points in liis district. Still he pleaded, not-
withstanding, that the supply was not a tenth part of
the demand. lie even called the missionaries of
that society together, and urged them to appreciate,
without delay, the chance of the help we could bring
for the evangelization of the people, by calling in all
their scattered missionaries and concentrating them in
the south of the division, and resio^ninsr the whole
north to us, with head-quarters at Goruckpore. His
argument with me, and which was most earnestly
urged, was, that "so much preparatory work had
been done throughout the district that we should reap
a harvest far sooner than we could in new and un-
broken ground." But, to me, this j^lea spoke caution
rather than encouragement, for I saw it would be a
departure from our principle of non-interference with
the labors of other Christian brethren, nor did it seem
just, as they had in a measure broken up their field
and sowed the seed, that we should step in between
them and the harvest for which they had toiled and
prayed. I had to decline, greatly to his regret.
When, some time after, I wrote and informed him
that I had decided for the valley north of the Ganges,
lie replied with much feeling, repeating his opinion
of the more quiet class of people, and greater prepa-
rations for success we would have found within his
limits, and concluded with the words: "But now
you will have to take the bull by the horns ! " But
we were willing to incur that risk. Though far

From Boston to Bakeilly. 121

beyond Lis figure and his fears, tlie danger had to be
faced within six months, which was to give us a real-
izins: sense of what David meant when he invoked
the divine protection, and pleaded, " Be not far from
me ; for trouble is near j for there is none to help.
Many bulls have compassed me : strong bulls of
Bashan have beset me round. They gaped upon me
with their mouths, as a ravening and a roaring hon."
Psa. xxii, 11.

Well, they truly did compass and gape and roar,
and also blasphemed our Christ, and we are now
returning to behold how wonderfully our God con-
trolled all this rage for his own glory ; and to do in
Bareilly, and in Lucknow as well, exactly what David
said he would do after he was similarly rescued : " I
will declare thy name unto my brethren : in the midst
of the congregation will I praise thee." Yerse 22.
We go, also, gladly to anticipate and claim the vic-
tory in which this defeated resistance is yet to issue,
as he says, in verse 27 : " All the ends of the world
shall remember and turn unto the Lord : and all
the kindreds of the nations shall worship before
thee.'' Exactly ; for each resistance gave God his op-
portunity of victory, and each victory is most assur-
edly leading on to the final triumph, in which the
contest is to issue to the praise of his glory. God's
Church need not fear, "though the earth be re-
moved, and though the mountains be carried into the
midst of the sea ; " because " God is in the midst of

122 • From Boston to Bareilly.

lier ; she sliall not be moved : God shall help her, and
that right early."

Another good man, Mr. Atherton, holding a high
position as Judge of the Sarun District, hearing of
our arrival, so earnestly desired that we should con-
sent to plant our mission within his jurisdiction, that
he addressed Mr. Tucker, requesting him to inform
us of his good-will and ready assistance. He wrote :
" If the American missionaries wish to face the devil
in his den, let them come to this place, and make
Chuparah their head-quarters. I will subscribe one
hundred rupees a month toward the mission so long
as I hold my present appointment, or any other of
equal value, and I am sure others also would sub-
scribe cheerfully. Inclose this note to Mr. Butler,
that he may know a welcome awaits him and his
brethren in my places."

Six hundred dollars per annum from a Christian
whom I had not yet seen, and who belonged to an-
other denomination ! Such was the sympathy shown
by some English gentlemen for the perishing heathen
around them !

A few words on the field chosen, and accepted by
the Board, may conclude this chapter. It was a very
remarkable Providence that reserved for us such a
wide, unoccupied, and, indeed, pre-eminent field, as
this has proved to be.

For nearly forty centuries the Brahmins have been
studying the soul and its destiny under the shadows

From Boston to Bakeilly. 123

of the Himalayas, in tlie great Gangetic valley.
There its wonderful epics were composed, there are
its great Mela grounds, there are the scenes of Vish-
nu's reputed incarnations, and probably there were its
Yedas and the Shastars written.

My letter of instructions, among the others, men-
tions the Rohillas. This warlike race occupies the
western half of the great north valley ; yet, by itself,
Kohilcund would have been too small a field of -ac-
tion for the Church w^iich I represented ; but east
of that, in the same great valley, and only divided
from it by an arbitrary line, were the kindred people
of Oude, but their bigoted sovereign kept the gates
of his kingdom closed against Christianity up to
within a few weeks of our arrival. Eohilcund and
Oude together would constitute one of the grandest
mission fields in India, or in the w^orld. This great
valley, speaking generally, is bounded on the north
by the Himalaya mountains, on the west and south
by the Ganges, and on the east by Goruckpore.
Within these limits, which would measure about four
hundred miles long, and an average of over one hun-
dred and forty miles wide, there are now, it is calcu-
lated, nearly twenty millions of human beings.

The census shows that in this extensive valley
there are seven hundred and two towns which have
from one thousand to five thousand of a population ;
twenty-nine towns with from five thousand to ten
thousand ; and twenty -two towns and cities with from

124 Fkom Boston to Bareilly.

ten thousand to three hundred thousand souls in
each. "What an opportunity of Cliristian usefulness
did God provide here for the Methodist Episcopal
Church !

The density of the population in some of the dis-
tricts of this valley is up to four hundred and forty-
two to the square mile. With tlie exception of a
mission of the Episcopalians in one of these cities,
this great mass of humanity have none but us to look
to for the means of grace and salvation. If these
millions are saved, it will be by our faithfulness to
the solemn trust so providentially placed in our
hands ; and if lost — if they go down to an idolaters'
eternity — it will be in consequence of our neglect, or
of our inability, to save them. No Church on eartli
has a grander opportunity than Methodism possesses
to-day in that valley.

How wonderful that it should have been reserved
for us till we were ready to enter it ! It was only
a few weeks before I reached Lucknow that Oude
was annexed, its king pensioned and removed to
Calcutta, while his mother, the Dowager Queen of
Oude, whom I passed as I came out of Southampton
in August, had returned with the intelligence tliat
the government in London would not reverse the
action of the Governor-General and Council in India.
The kingdom was henceforth to be governed by Brit-
ish officers. Sir Henry Lawrence w^as appointed as
the head of its administration. But before he could

From Boston to Bareilly. 125

arrive at Liicknow from the Punjab, I had reached
its gates, and found them just opened to Christianity.
So I entered and passed on up to Bareilly, and took
possession in the name of my divine Master, planting
the standard of the Methodist Episcopal Church in
the central city of that great Gauge tic valley, ours
forever to cultivate for Christ, " till its idols shall be
utterly abolished, and the Lord alone shall be exalt-
ed " among these millions.

This, then, is our parish in India. But our " good-
ly heritage," though given us of God, was not going
to be conceded to us by " the rulers of the darkness
of this world," Satanic or human, without a terrible
resistance. A struggle, the most fearful that Chris-
tianity ever passed through on the Oriental hemi-
sphere, was soon to rise and combine its energies to
resist our entering, where " Satan long had held his
throne :" so that only ten weeks elapsed from the
time when we obtained a home in Bareilly, till that
resistance burst forth in ** blood and fire and pillars
of smoke," and for long months we were unheard of
and were even given up as deadl The whole of the
terrible story, and how we were saved, and how God
" made the wrath of man to praise him," and re-
strained its remainder, are all told in my other book,
Tlie Land of the Veda, and need not be further re-
ferred to here. Now we are returning, and we shall
have the opportunity of seeing how far my convic-
tion, uttered at the time, that tlie Sepoy Kebellion

r^

126 From Boston to Bareilly.

would not only fail, but that, instead, it would even
throw the country forward a hundred years nearer to
its salvation — how far that expectation has been real-
ized. So here we pause until the next ocean is
crossed, and we stand once more in " The Climes of
the Sun," and contemplate the results which have
been there wrought out during the past twenty-live
years.

We are now approaching the southern end of the
Eed Sea. Abyssinia is close on our right, and Yemen
in Arabia, with its port of Mocha, on our left.
Before us are the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb, tlie Island
of Perim, with its welcome light-house, being in the
center. How grateful we felt for preserving mercy,
as we rounded into the unique harbor of Aden, to re-
plenish our resources, and prepai-e for our run across
the Indian Ocean.

This port of Aden is a place of remarkable strength
and of great importance, holding somewhat the same
position between Africa and Asia that Gibraltar holds
between Europe and Africa. The etymology of the
name is supposed to be the same as Eden (or Para-
dise), and that it was so designated by the Arabs to
express their sense of its climate and the commercial
advantages for which it has long been famous. The
sunshine is perpetual, and we did not find the heat
too oppressive Bain seldom falls, sometimes only
once in three years, but the water supply is ample,
by means of immense reservoirs built by English

From Boston to Bareilly. 127

enterprise, so that its thirty thousand inhabitants and
all the ships that call are amply supplied. The Arab
women were unveiled, and appeared quite at their
ease in the jDresence of strangers, as their cousins,
the daughters of Judea, did in days of old. About
half a mile out from the city, at the reservoirs, I saw
numbers of them who had come, like Hebekah, to
draw water, and some of them did look as handsome
as, no doubt, she did. My foreign costume and white
face made me, evidently, an object of amusement to
them, though it was all modestly and kindly carried
on. The warm olive color was certainly no detriment
to their beauty, and probably they exhibited about
the very tinge which was borne on the cheek of the
lovely " mother of all living " in the original Eden
somewhere in the northern part of this same pen-
insula.

But our rambling must close, and we hurry on board
again. How the sense of responsibility deepens as
the expected duties draw nearer, yet we are kept calm
and trustful as they approach. With a profound
respect for the authorities whose commission I bear,
and with a humble reliance upon the providential
^ guidance of Him in whose name they have sent me,
and whose blessed promise, " Lo, I am with youalway,
even unto the end of the world," now becomes more
close and precious, as the distance from them mani-
festly grows wider, and this final start is made.
Seven thousand miles now separate us from them, and

128 From Boston to Bakeilly.

from tlie loved ones and dear friends whom we have
left behind, dwelling amid the peace and security of
our Christian civilization in loved America. How
intense were all these feelings and thoughts as we
weighed anchor, and run out in the shades of the
evenino: throuojh the narrow entrance into that
Oriental ocean, on the other side of which was India !
We glanced back with sympathy, and, as we looked
forward with hope, our thoughts were well expressed
in the simple words of the poet,

" To some thou givest at ease to lie,

Content in anchored happiness;
Thy breath my full sail swelling, I

Across these broadening seas would press.

" At friendly shores, at peaceful isles,

I touch ; but may not long delay ;
Where thy flushed East with mystery smiles

I steer into the uu risen day."

Fbom Boston to Bakeilly. 129

CHAPTER IV.

So might I view Siu's moldering empire fail,

And the bright coming of the Saviour hail I

Yet, Lord, before that solemn day arrive,

Before I cease to labor, cease to live.

Though not to me the blessing should be given,

To see earth covered with the rays of heaven, —

Still may I, gracious Lord of life and light.

Snatch some lost heathen from eternal night,

Plant tlie first church upon some Pagan shore,

Gaze on its oft'sets branching into more.

Would others reap where I alone have sown?

Others shall make the glorious cause their own;

And I, exultiug, view the dawning ray,

Though they may have the fuller blaze of day, — Anon.

Our good ship was The Nubia^ Captain Tronson
commanding. The "monsoon," or stormy rain-fall,
had not yet ceased, and before reaching

" The golden gates of day,
Which open on the palmy East,"

we enconntered one of those tropical storms, so com-
mon in these seas at certain seasons of the year. The
thunder and lightning, and the intense darkness and
amazing downpour, were an experience not to be soon
forgotten. How calmly and firmly each man stood
to liis post of duty, and what a solemn pause was all

over that steamer as she contended with the raging
9

130 Fkom Boston to Bareilly.

elements. But we were protected, and came out into
the sunlight without a spar broken, or a sail lost.

"We were not so fortunate on the next occasion, in
about the same locality. A cyclone came up, and
struck us ere we were ready for it. Our ship, The
Lady Jocelyn^ an immense vessel built during the
Crimean war as a troop ship, was only " an auxiliary
screw " steamer — the little propeller, of sixty horse-
power, was used merely for going in and out of port,
or for crossing the line, w^here the wind so often fails.
When not used it could be lifted up, and the great
ship then went under canvas alone. In this con-
dition, on the occasion in question, proceeding slowly
on our way, the cyclone w^as seen approaching. To
get out of its path was impossible within the time.
So on it came roaring, the water and air constituting
a great black column that towered up toward the sky,
revolving rapidly on its axis, and yet moving in a
plane of its own, like the annual and diurnal motions
of the earth. Amid terrible suspense it swept down
upon us, and in ^yq minutes tore away our sails, and
bending the great vessel over, shifted some of our
cargo, and left us helpless for a time. The effect was
remarkable. The inclination of the deck to the
water made it look as though the ocean were a hill-
side. The dreadful power passed on, and we were
glad to find that our spars were unbroken. Soon
fresh sails were brought up from below, and the
gallant ship was trimmed again. The engineer lit his

From Boston to Bareilly. 131

fires, and dropped the screw, and in six hours she
was recovered to a better position, and we ran for
Cape Town, where she was quickly refitted.

An unfortunate ship, according to her reckoning
only about twelve miles south of us on tliat day, was
struck by the sanie cyclone about one hour ere it
reached us, and not only lost her sails, but also had
lier masts broken, and was left like a helpless log
upon the water. She did not reach her destination
till nearly four months after our arrival. The descrip-
tion of the sufferings to which those on board were
reduced, before help overtook them, was dreadful.

It was a singular coincidence that the English and
American Methodist missions to India should both
have commenced their labors under afflictive circum-
stances, in each case the sorrow being connected with
their superintendent. On the 3d of May, 1814, the
superintendent of the first band of Wesleyan mis-
sionaries, our own Dr. Coke, proceeding to Cey-
lon, suddenly died within three days' sail of India.
His brethren, deprived of their zealous and devoted
leader, landed in sadness upon these shores. On the
doctor's death, James Lynch (referred to in my second
chapter), one of the five missionaries that accompanied
him, was appointed to take charge as superintendent.
He labored nearly thirty years, and then returned to
Ireland, his native land. He was there appointed to
the Comber Circuit, but being feeble, I was sent to
assist him to finish his year. The good old man took

132 Fkom Boston to Baeeilly.

quite a fancy to his youtliful colleague. "We traveled
and labored together. I derived much of my early
missionary inspiration from association with this
devoted servant of the Lord. On my way to India,
I found him on the platform of the Wesleyan MijB-
sionary Anniversary in Exeter Hall, London, very
feeble, but calmly awaiting his departure to a better
world, while the boy preacher that he so kindly
encouraged fifteen years before sat by his side, and
was on liis way to tliat very India as superintendent
of the American Methodist Mission to be established
there.

Thus it happened that to me was given the peculiar
honor of being a sort of connecting link between the
first and the last established missions of Methodism
in India — a living bond, as it were, uniting English
and American Wesle^^anism in the foreign field. I
appreciate the privilege, and would rather thus stand
■ — a link in this honored ministry — than to wear the
gaudiest miter of him whose ministerial confidence
is the empty figment of a so-called " apostolical suc-
cession ! "

Nearly half a century passed away, and on the 19th
of September, 1856, another ship neared the coast of
India ; this time bearing, not English, but American
Methodist missionaries. They are also the first band
that their Church has sent to India, and they, too, are
overwhelmed with anxiety and distress, for they fear
that their superintendent is no longer among the

From Boston to Bareilly. 133

living ! He had preceded them seventeen months
before, had selected the iield, and anxiously awaited
their coming ; passing, in the meanwhile, through the
"great fight of afflictions," in which our work in
India began.

The pilot, who had come on board their ship in the
Bay of Bengal, had informed them that the terrible
Sepoy Kebellion was raging over the interior of
India. But let one of themselves describe their
feelings, as he did afterward in a letter to me. He
says : " We knew nothing of the fearful scenes
transpiring, in India until our pilot came on board,
on the morning of the 19th instant, bringing files of
the latest papers. After we had recovered ourselves
a little from the first blow, we turned to the account
of the Bareilly tragedy. I read it aloud, trembling
almost to read from line to line. Twenty-nine out
of eighty-four Europeans escaped, and your name
unmentioned ! Our w^orst fears were excited. We
saw, however, that only official names were given ;
but, after resolving the matter, could encourage our-
selves but little to hope for your safety. We re-
mained in this state of intense suspense until four
P. M. on Monday, the 21st, w^hen we cast anchor at
Garden Keach. I hastened on shore, called on
Brother Stewart, and learned the joyful tidings of
your escape to Nynee Tal, and also Mr. Owen's
safety, of which we had been uncertain. Our interest
was all concentrated in this question, ' Are Brother

134 Fkom Boston to Bakeilly.

Butler and family safe f ' Wlien we learned this,
our gratitude and gladness were such we scarcely
thought for the time of your losses and sufferings ; it
seemed enough that you were safe. ' O that men
would praise the Lord for his goodness, and for his
wonderful works to the children of men.' I returned
to the ship, then were we glad, thanked God, and
took courage."

On the 8th of October, 1883, still another sliip is
appi'oaching the shores of India, but no sorrow clouds
this arrival. The shadow of death is not here.
Loving friends are waiting to welcome " the father
and mother of the Korth India mission " to their old
field of labor, while all is gratitude and joy. Good-
ness and mercy have followed them, and liere they
are once more crowned with loving kindness and
the favor of the Lord.

But, ere we indulge this grateful strain, let us
speak again of our former voyage, when we came as
strangers, with hearts full of anxiety for the field
which we had to choose, and the work which we had
to inaugurate. On that occasion, instead of landing,
as now, at Bombay, which was not then, as to-day,
the Gate of India, we went up on the other side, by
Ceylon, to Calcutta. After rounding Cape Comorin,
we ran into Point de Galle for a few hours, to land
the mails, and had our first experience of

*' The spicy breezes "
That •' blow soft o'er Ceylon's Isle."

From Boston to Bareilly. 135

We landed, and went to tlie AVesleyan mission house,
and were cordially welcomed. In company with our
kind hosts, we went out to visit the cinnamon groves,
which I suppose have given rise to the idea of these
breezes.

Returning to the mission for tea, before going
again on board, we had our first opportunity of
hearing " the Redeemer's name sung " in a heathen
land.

As we partook of some refreshment, the soft, sweet
strains of a hymn came from an adjoining building,
and recognizing the precious tune, we eagerly asked,
" What is that ? " and one answei-ed, " That is a class-
meeting just commencing." "And what are the
words ? " How delightful was the reply, — " The
words are :

* Jesus, lover of my soul,
Let me to thy bosom fly,'

in the Singhalese language."

This incident intensified thoughts which had been
in my mind ever since I had offered to go to India,
in relation to the adaptation of the Gospel to these
people. As I came nearer I longed to learn from
those who would fully understand me wliether the
Christian religion was really all to these Orientals that
it was to redeemed people in our Western hemi-
sphere? Could they have an experience like our
own? I felt that the very life of my mission de-
pended upon the reply to this question. As a Church

136 From Boston to Bareilly.

we could not long keep up our interest in a work of
evangelization that fell short of this. To elevate, by
education and Christian civilization, was good in its
way, but any change of religion or moral conduct
that was not accompanied by tlie conscious salvation
of God in the hearts of our converts would not long
command the sympathy and generous support of the
Methodist people. This I felt and knew, so I went
to India with anxiety on my mind in regard to tliis
vital question, and my first impression was favorable.
Had time permitted I would have introduced the sub-
ject right here, but we had to hurry on board, with
the question unasked. The desire to know, however,
was intensified, and two days later, on arrival at
Madras, the delay there being longer, I took a boat
and went ashore, resolved to terminate my solicitude
on the subject.

Finding my way to the Wesleyan mission house, I
was fortunate in meeting the cliairman of the district
(their title for presiding elder), Hev. Mr. Hodson,
and, after informing him who I was, and what I
had come to do, I asked this venerable man, who
would certainly understand me, what was the char-
acter of the religious experience of their native
converts.

He seemed surprised at the question, and asked
what I meant by it. I explained that I wanted to
know whether these Hindu people could be converted,
and have the witness of the Holy Spirit to the fact

Fbom Boston to Bakeilly. 137

of their iwifteptance witli God, as we in England and
Americ* enjoyed it. He looked at me and smiled,
no doubt thinking I was a novice in missionary expe-
rience to put such a question. But he saw I was
anxious to have a candid answer. Without further
remark he left the room, and soon returned, leading
in a young man whom he introduced to me as one of
their theological students, and quietly observing,
" You can ask him," he went out again, leaving me
face to face with the answer to my question.

Even at home, and amid the coniidences of our pas-
toral life, it is not always easy for a minister to ascer-
tain exactly the real condition of the religious life
and experience of his members. Yet here I was,
with an utter stranger, and he a Hindu, seeking this
information.

But I was committed to the inquiry, and, finding
that he could speak English, resolved to improve my
opportunity. My limited time made it necessary
that I should be prompt ; so, after greeting the young
man, I drew up two chairs and we were seated. His
gracious and intelligent appearance impressed me fa-
vorably. I wished him to feel quite at ease with me,
told him who I was and where I was going, and then
said :

" You are the first converted Hindu I have ever
seen, and you cannot imagine with what interest I
look at you. I want you to help me by answering
me a question or two."

138 Fkom Boston to Baeeilly.

He replied that he would try to do so. I then said,

" First, then, will you tell me how you were con-
verted to Christianity ? "

He was solemnized by the abrupt inquiry, and a
shade of emotion passed over his countenance, but he
was soon self-possessed again, and, after a few sec-
onds, replied :

"Well, sir, 1 heard the missionaries preach in the
Bazaar, and w^as led to read the Bible. I thus found
out that my ancestral religion was false, and that
Christianity was true. I embraced it, and was bap-
tized. I am a communicant, and attend eliurch; I
study the Scriptures, and am a Christian."

Had he stopped here, as I feared he might, and, as I
afterward learned, hundreds of " converts " do, — per-
haps because they are not taught better, — I should not
have been much encouraged by the interview ; but, to
my delight, he went on to say that he had been led to
see that he was a sinner — that his heart must be
changed and his transgressions against God forgiven,
or his soul would be lost ; and, under this deep sense
of his need of mercy, he had come as a penitent to
God ; that he was soon enabled to cast himself by
faith on the merits of the Lord Jesus Christ, and God
took off from . his conscience the heavy load of sin,
and shed abroad his love in his heart. He then felt
and knew that he was saved, and had ever since been
happy.

How glad I was to hear this simple, clear state-

Fkom Boston to Bareilly. 130

ment — to have tliis evidence, that our blessed religion
could be every thing to a Hindu that it was to me.
I rejoiced with him, and then said :

" Now, that seems all right ; you have given to me
a reason of the hope that is in you, will you further
tell me, as you have been introduced to me as a theo-
logical student, what are your motives for entering
the Christian ministry ? "

This was a very close question, but he endured it,
and modestly replied :

" Well, sir, the mercy that has saved me can save
any one else, and I have such sympathy for those
around me who are now as I once was, that I want
to lead them to God for mercy, as I was led myself.
The Lord has laid this upon my heart as a duty, and
I dare not refuse. I must preach the Gospel."

I was delighted with his reply, and said :

" I think any of our Quarterly Conferences in
America would vote you, on such evidence, a license
to preach. I thank you for answering my questions ;
you have done me more good than you can know, and
have solved any doubt I may have had whether God
could save your race and call them to his holy minis-
try as truly and fully as he saves and calls his servants
elsewhere. I shall never forget you ; you have
greatly encouraged me for the work on which I am
entering."

Bidding him an affectionate farewell, I had to
hurry away to reach the ship ere she lifted her anchor.

140 From Boston to Bareilly.

During the remaining four days of the voyage on to
Calcutta I thought constantly of that precious young
man, and prayed earnestly that God might so guide
and bless our efforts that I should live to see raised
up in the mission which I was to found men like him,
converted to God and having a divine call to the
work of the ministry — feeling assured that if this
were done our people at home would never fail in
sympathy for the work, but would sustain it as long
as it presented such claims as these to their confidence
and affection.

How much need there is in a land like India, or,
indeed, in any unevangelized land, for caution in these
important matters, where converts so much need " line
upon line," as to the essential nature of Christianity,
and where they are so liable to stop short of divine
grace; resting content in sacraments and Church
membership, and the remembrances they have of the
sacrifices they made in order to become " Christians : "
and too often trusting in the form without the
power. What perpetual need there is to reiterate the
caution, "Ye must be born again!" The clearest
teaching and the highest standard are needed here,
where so many influences combine to cloud the sub-
ject and lead men to rest in " a name to live while they
are dead." A religion of mere form is all that such
people ever know, so they have a strong temptation to
rest satisfied in the purer forms of Christianity, and
suppose it is all right with them because they have ac-

From Boston to Bareilly. 141

cepted a Christian creed, been baptized, regularly par-
ticipate in the holy communion, and try to live right.

If their spiritual guide be a man who is not aware
that the witness of the Holy Spirit is the common
privilege of Christians, every- where and in all ages,
he is not likely to urge them to seek it earnestly ; nor
will he be very emphatic in drawing their attention
to the definite instruction contained in those passages
which teach this blessed truth ; such as : "Because
ye are sons, God hath sent forth the Spirit of his Son
into your hearts, crying, Abba, Father."

Here the witness is essentially connected with the
sonship of God's children ; the testimony of the Spirit
accompanies his work in the heart — the evidence goes
with the relationship as surely as feeling and con-
sciousness go with life.

On my return, anxious to add another voice to " the
word of their testimony," as I moved among the con-
gregations which our brethren have gatliered out of
heathenism into the fellowship of Christianity, I re-
peatedly exhorted on such texts as, " Have ye received
the Holy Ghost since ye believed?" and was con-
stantly pleased to find that I was understood on this
subject by our converts as I would be by our congre-
gations at home.

They have been well trained in the truth of God by
men who are not troubled by any mental reservation
as to whether the Lord Jesus, in the same sense and
with the same intention, died for every one whom

142 Fkom Boston to Bakeilly.

they address. They fully believe that there is no bar
in the way of the salvation of any of their hearers in
any decree of Him whose love for the world led him
to give his Son to " taste death for every man." Nor
are their expectations of gracious and present results
at all paralyzed or postponed by any millenarian ex-
pectations which tend to quiet down such an agony
of soul for their converts as leads them to " travail
in birth again till Christ be formed within them," un-
der the delusive idea that the power and extension
desired will all appear " when the Lord Jesus himself
comes " to accomplish it.

A latent Calvinism or a premillenarian theory is a
very poor qualification for a missionary who longs to
see present results of his labor. Ritualism — resting
short of the great radical change which is conscious
to all who have experienced it — is equally misleading,
and leaves little results of spiritual life to show for
their labor, even when half a century of toil has been
expended. How much better to trust the Gospel, as
retaining its entire original energy and grace, and of-
fer at all times immediate and conscious salvation by
believing on the Son of God, as did Philip to the
stranger eunuch, expecting immediate results, and so
having it done to them " according to their faith."

Our Methodist missions have, without hesitation,
dared to stake their hopes of success on such convic-
tions. Are they justified in this, and what are the
results after twenty-five years of effort ?

From Boston to Baeeilly. 143

Let us land, and see for ourselves what God lias
wrought by such methods and such faith as theirs,
and all others who are like-minded.

On the 8tli of October, 1883, we ran into the mag-
nificent harbor of Bombay, and dropped anchor amid
a scene of great beauty. It was the morning of the
holy Sabbath. The air was warm, the water smooth
as a lake, and before us lay the open " gate of India."
Bombay is probably the finest city on the Oriental
hemisphere. The cotton famine during our Civil
"War, when the English government made such stren-
uous efforts to lead the people of India to give their
energies to cultivate the plant and supply Lancashire,
gave Bombay its grandest opportunity. Great fort-
unes were accumulated during those five years ; and
its merchants vied with each other in making their
city worthy of tlie wealth that poured in upon it.
Magnificent parks and public buildings, wide streets,
and all the modern improvements, were created. No
city in the East ever attained such an accession to its
splendor as this one did during that period.

But their heathen civihzation failed when the press-
ure of prosperity came upon it, and the temptation
of " making haste to be rich " proved too much for
a people who had not yet cordially accepted the
maxim that " honesty is the best policy."

Instead of being satisfied with such a prosperity as
then flowed in upon them, and trying to be conscien-
tious in theii* efforts to retain it by fair dealing with

144 Fbom Boston to Eareilly.

their new customers, tliey began to tamper with their
bales of cotton to make them weigh heavier, intro-
ducing sand and even stones. But thej quickly
"killed the goose that laid the golden eggs." The
mill owners of Lancashire were, ere long, disgusted
and exasperated to find their delicate machinery in-
jured by the adulterations; so, as soon as our war
ended, and our southern ports were opened, they
gave up depending on India, and went back to New
Orleans and Charleston for " honest cotton."

We had made our run from Liverpool to Bombay,
a distance of six thousand two hundred miles, in
twenty-eight days. Just as nine o'clock struck that
morning, a boat came off with two gentlemen in it
wearing European costumes, and we were warmly
welcomed by the presiding elder. Rev. D. O. Fox,
and one of his members. We were soon transferred
to the shore, and passed through the customs, and by
eleven o'clock I was standing in the pulpit of our
English Church near the Fort, to preach. I was taken
in the evening, for the same purpose, to our Grant
Koad Church, and after that to the Bazaar, to the
service in the Mahratta language, conducted by the
venerable and saintly George Bowen, and so ended
a delightful day about eleven o'clock that night.
Being early in October the heat was very great
and exhausting, and we had another month of it to
endure, before the cooler weather of November
would come on.

From Boston to Bareilly. ' 145

This was my first glimpse of the work of the South
India Conference, which I was afterward to see very
extensively, when I had gone over the field of the
North India Conference, my old sphere of labor.

Letters and a telegram from our brethren were
here awaiting me, urging us onward to Lucknow, so
that we might be in time for the Dasserah and Camp-
meeting, which were about to commence.

We hurried up our preparations, and on Monday
evening went to the station to take our departure.
Here, too, we were struck with surprise on seeing the
evidences of the changes that had come over India,
not only since we first landed, in 1856, but, more
especially, since we left it, only eighteen years ago.

Then the only way to reach Lucknow from Bom-
bay, a distance of ten hundred and ten miles, was
the single seat on the mail cart, or else by palanquin,
— a litter swung on a pole, and carried by eight men,
for each person, — which would make about three
miles an hour, the bearers being changed every
twelve miles, each man receiving four annas (twelve
cents) and buckshish; a slow and most expensive
mode of traveling. The journey would then have
required eighty-four changes of bearers between Bom-
bay and Lucknow, and would have cost about one
hundred and ten dollars for each person carried.
Every river on the entire route would have had to
be forded, for there were then no bridges, save occa-
sionally a rickety bridge of boats, and the time con-
10

146 From Boston to Baeeilly.

snmed on the journey would have been (if there were
no detentions or breakdowns) fully twenty-five days,
including the Sabbath's rest, " according to the com-
mandment." The running is done between five
o'clock in the evening and ten o'clock next forenoon,
the traveler being obliged to remain under cover
during the great heat of the day. It was very tire-
some, especially for ladies. But, in the new con-
dition of things, we found a first-class railroad ready
for our use. The carriages were remarkably comfort-
able, with special appliances for traveling in a hot
country.

"We chose the second class, having a large compart-
ment to ourselves, with sofa seats to rest and sleep
on. There was blue and green glass in the windows,
to moderate the glare of the sun, and a bath-room
attached. The whole cost for each individual, from
Bombay to Lucknow, w^as only thirty-six rupees,
about fifteen dollars, the class above being twice that
sum, and the one below only one half the amount,
and the distance was run in forty-nine hours. What
a change for the better in eighteen years was here !

The railroad system extends all over India now.
This line continues east to Calcutta, a distance of
fourteen hundred and eighty miles from Bombay.
Then from Calcutta to Peshawar there is a line eight-
een hundred miles long. Another from Bombay to
Peshawar, "via Delhi and Lahore, is eighteen hundred
and fifty-six miles long, and another, which is two

From Boston to Bareilly. 147

tfiousand three hundred and ninety miles in length,
from Bombay to Kurrachee by Lahore. These are
the longest lines in the country.

When we first entered India there was only one
short line, seventy-four miles from Calcutta, out to
Eaneegunge, to a coal-field there. For years this
was all. They were timid about proceeding, as they
feared in regard to the coal supply ; but, finally, they
ventured on from Kaneegunge to Benares, and
thence to Delhi, and found coal mines as they pro-
ceeded. When they reached Delhi a mine was dis-
covered near Umbala, and on they went to Pesha-
war. The Maker of this world had planted the coal
where it would afterward be most required, and
it was ready to be discovered when the highest
necessities of India were to be promoted by it. The
line to Peshawar runs along the outside border of
our mission field, and now another line has been
made tlirough its entire length, called the Oude and
Kohilcund Kailway, from the city of Benares to
Allyghur.

No mission is better furnished with facilities for
intercommunication than this. In twenty-four hours
our missionaries can come together for their Confer-
ence, and this at a trifling expense. Southern India
is, also, extensively provided with railroads, there
being lines now from Bombay to Madras, from Ma-
dras to Bangalore, and on to Beypore.

The native princes have also caught the inspira-

148 From Boston to Bareilly.

tion, and have built lines in their dominions ; so that
in the Nizam's territory, in Baroda, the Mysore,
Scinde, Tirhoot, Kandahar, and many other native
states, the princes have built their own roads, and
connected them with the great trunk lines laid down
by English companies under government guarantees.

The telegraph has been run every-where. Canals
and works for irrigation are nearly equal to the de-
mand for them, and famines are thus being made al-
most impossible.

A great system of education, higher and lower,
aided or supported by government, extends through
each presidency. A system of the cheapest postage
known in any nation is available to all, and the
" money-order " and " parcel's post " systems are now
added.

India is already in " The Latin Union " for out-
side postage ; so that, instead of the " thirty-eight
cents," as a letter rate from Boston to Bareilly, and
ten cents on a newspaper, as it was in 1856, ^ve cents
now carries that letter, and two cents the paper. ISTo
other heathen nation has such postal facilities as now
exist in British India.

The whole of this vast aggregate of good, and
more that might be mentioned, as hospitals, etc., have
been conferred upon India by the Christian civiliza-
tion that now directs her interests. While peace, in-
telligence, and valuable improvements extend every-
where. Not a sword can be drawn by one of their

From Boston to Bareilly. 149

native princes against another, nor a drop of blood
shed from year to year. The benign oversight of
English authority forbids it. Of course there are
many wix)ngs yet to be righted, and national sins to
be forsaken (such as the accursed opium traffic), but
the past and the present are a guarantee that the
future will be better than this if the same course is
only patiently and perseveringly pursued, as no doubt
it will be.

What nation could have done better for India, in
view of the circumstances, than England has done ?
Certainly we Americans are in no condition to " cast
the first stone" at her for her failings or misdoings,
while our own sins of rum-selling, Mormonism, polit-
ical self-seeking, corruption, Sabbatli desecration, and
profanity abound as they now do. I feel constrained
to add here, that I doubt if there be in any land on
this earth a civil service of more pure and accom-
plished men, or public servants who are more above
suspicion, or whose just administration, on the whole,
gives greater satisfaction to the millions under their
rule, than is done by the civil service of Great Britain
in India : while their generosity and sympathy with
the work of our missions are princely, and are known
to every reader of our annual reports for the past
twenty-five years.

But here we are in our comfortable compart-
ment, provided for by our Bombay friends, with a
well-furnished lunch-basket for our interesting jour-

150 !Fkom Boston to Baeeilly.

viej. The shades of night fall before the Ghats are
reached. We cannot see them till we are returning.
They ascend three thousand feet, and the wonderful
\;ailroad climbs up round them in a way that sur-
prises every one who has the opportunity of behold-
ing them. This elevation is exceeded by the railroad
which crosses the " Cumbres " in Mexico. But, al-
though that attains an elevation of over seven thou-
sand feet, yet the palm of beauty must be conceded,
in some points, by the Mexican line to these Ghats.

Early next morning we were running across the
plains to Khundwa, and evening found us at Jubbul-
pore. Another good night's rest, and by eight o'clock
in the morning we ran into the great station at Alla-
habad {Allah, God, ahad, dwelling or city — the city
of God), at the junction of the Ganges and the
Jumna. Here we were hailed by one of the offi-
cials (a telegram having been sent on by the good
folks at Bombay), and breakfast was offered. One
of our kind entertainers delighted us by remarking,
" This station used to be a scene of constant pro-
fanity. It was dreadful to listen to the cursing and
swearing which rolled along this platform from morn-
ing till night, and this from officials that were half-
intoxicated. But God, in mercy, sent ' William Tay-
lor's men ' in here among us ; a great reformation
followed, and now from Monday morning till Satur-
day night we seldom hear an oath, or even a loud
word ; the men are sober, their work is well done,

From Boston to Bareilly. 151

and ull is peace and gentleness." What a testimony !
I found the chief of the station was a class-leader,
and nearly all his subordinates, European and Eura-
sian, were members of the Methodist Episcopal
Church.

After hearty salutations, we are once more on our
way. One hundred and sixty-four miles still lay be-
tween us and Lucknow.

At Jive P. M. we rolled into the station at Cawn-
pore, and were then within the bounds of our own
mission field, the North India Conference.

The moment we stopped there was handed into
our compartment a great tray, on which was a cooked
dinner, smoking hot, that would have well fed half a
dozen hungry people. Truly our friends were taking
care of us. What cordiality and kindness they were
showing. We part from them and are off again, this
time for the last stretch of the journey. How grand
the scene appeared as we ran on to the magnificent
bridge over the Ganges. In my day we had to cross
this river on a bridge of rickety boats, which the
floods of July would often sweep away, and then a
row-boat was the only way across the wide expanse
of waters, which overflowed the land on either side,
till the river extended to several miles in breadth, and
hours were required to cross it, usually in great discom-
fort on account of the rapid current and tropical rains.

But now here we are on a bridge that is really
a grand structure, and in five minutes we have rolled

152 From Boston to Bareilly.

over, and are ready to give our three hearty cheers
for Christian civilization and its blessings. Every
important town we fly through now has a Methodist
preacher and a little body of Christian believers in it,
with the means of grace, and a school for the educa-
tion of their children. But the last forty miles are
passed as we come in sight of the Alum Bagh, in the
center of which are resting, awaiting the resurrection
of the just, the mortal remains of the good and brave
General Havelock. What memories the sight of that
dome brings back to us. How the dreamy aspect has
vanished, and the awful facts of the days twenty-six
years ago stand out again before us in their dread
reality !

Five miles more and we arrive at the station, by
half past nine o'clock, and are in Lucknow, full of
gratitude to the divine goodness which has brought
us so far iij safety.

As soon as the train stopped there was such a
hearty burst of joyful recognition. There stood, to
welcome us, the presiding elder, Dr. Johnson, with
Dr. Waugh and a number of the brethren. We were
hurried into carriages, and started for the Mission
House of the Woman's Foreign Missionary Society,
where it was arranged that we were to be enter-
tained. Nothing is said of any reception or further
demonstration, nor are we expecting any thing of the
kind. We are tired and sleepy, and are longing for
quiet and rest. But, to our surprise, before we reach

From Boston to Bareilly. 163

the last turn, where the Mission House comes into
view, the carriages stop under the shade of the trees,
and we are asked to alight. What does this mean ?
It was a surprise, prepared by our loving friends to
amaze and delight us. When we got out of the car-
riages we were put in line two and two, arm in arm.
This looked rather formal, but even then expectation
of any reception was not awakened. I quietly sub-
mitted, and that was all. When we were adjusted we
began to move on through the dense shade till the
corner was turned, then, lo, all was explained ! Over
the gate, now full in view, was an arch, and from it
blazed out in golden letters, fifteen inches deep, the

glad word,

"^A^ELCOME!"

Wliile, lining the avenue, from the gate to the
house were about three hundred native Christians,
the men on one side, the women on the other, and as
soon as we emerged out of the shade, and came into
the blaze of light, and were seen, there pealed out, in
their own language, but to the old familiar tune, the
glad words :

"Lol subh ki roshni ati,

Tariki hatti dur ;
Har miilk aiir qaiirn pati,

Masih ka sachcha niir."

Which verse, being interpreted, means, —

*' The morning light is breaking,

Tlie darkness disappears ;
The sons of earth are waking

To penitential tears."

154: Feom Boston to Bareilly.

The effect was overwhelming. Who were these
who were thus singing, " Blessed is He that couieth
in the name of the Lord ! " Some of them were the
dear orphan girls whom I had taken up, in their desti-
tution and misery, twenty-five years before. We
could pick them out, by their gleaming eyes and
their grateful tears, as they looked once more on
^' the father and mother of the mission," as the}^ called
us. How nice and clean and good they all appeared ;
how glad and happy ! It was about the heaviest test
of our feelings that we have ever known in life.
The emotions were overmastering. I felt like one
dazed as I tried to walk up between that rejoicing,
loving line of native Christians, with their pastors and
teachers. There, at the head of the line, on the steps
of her hospitable home, stood that blessed woman,
Miss Thoburn, surrounded by her staff of faithful
helpers. What a welcome, and what a contrast was
this to our first reception at Lucknow ! ]^o com-
mon words are at all warm enough to describe the
scene, or to express Ihe emotions of that glad hour,
w^hile, to write as we really felt, would, to those who
were not there, seem to be the very extravagance
of language.

It was late ere we were able to get away from our
dear friends to seek rest. That rest did not come
readily. We realized so fully that we were actually
back again in Lucknow, and the mind, in its excite-
ment, went out and called up that wonderful past,

From Boston to Bakeilly. 155

till we were living it all over again, as if it were only
a few months since we passed through those experi-
ences. The excitement and joy of the reception of
that evening contrasted so wonderfully w^itli our first
experience in that city, twenty-seven years before,
it is not possible to understand and appreciate the
present until we recall what that reception was. On
the 29th of ISTovember, 1856, we first entered this city.
Our note of introduction was to the gentleman then
in charge of the government, pending the arrival of
Sir Henry Lawrence, who was coming down from the
Punjab, to take upon him the heavy responsibility
of administering the affairs of this great province.

For a w^eek we w^ere entertained here, in "The
Kesidency," which, before another year had elapsed,
was to become so famous throughout the world for its
wonderful defense, and for its relief by General
Havelock. Some of those with whom we then associ-
ated were destined to fall victims in that terrible siege.
How little they apprehended that such a conflict and
such sufferings were so soon to come upon them.

Our entertainer, who made us welcome to the hos-
pitality of his home, had little sympathy with our
object, and gave me plainly to understand that he did
not believe in our success — even went so far as to
say that we could not detach one of these people
from their ancestral faith ; that caste, custom, and sen-
timent were all too strong for us, and intimated that
it would be the part of prudence to give up the

156 From Boston to Bakeilly.

effort, return to Calcutta, and take the first ship that
would carry us back again to Boston ! He could not
think it was safe for us to go, when I proposed next
day to do so, alone and unattended into the bazaar
(the business part of the city), and so insisted on fur-
nishing me with one of the government elephants, an
immense creature with a grand houdah on his back,
and, added to this, an armed Sepoy on horseback,
who w^as to guard me, and be responsible to him for
my safety. All this was considered essential by this
high English official, not for ray dignity or pleasure,
but for my safety in that great city, the capital of the
Sepoy race, and whose people were all armed, and so
turbulent tliat a spark would ignite a commotion and
set them fighting at any hour. My American j)ass-
port was here, probably, of more value to me than it
ever was elsewhere. This gentleman recognized that
it gave me a claim to his special consideration, so he
would run no risk of my going unprotected into that
bazaar, where he feared I might get knocked on the
head. It would have been awkward had this oc-
curred, and a paper come six months after from the
Department of State at Washington, inquiring what
became of that American Methodist preacher who
went one day into the Lucknow bazaar, and did not
come out again. He would, in that case, have had
hard work to trace me. So I was well protected
while with him, and he saw me safely depart, no
doubt with satisfaction.

FuoM Boston to Bakeilly. 157

I have never, in any city of India, save in Hydera-
bad last year, seen such a hostile, ferocious population
as I that day witnessed in Lucknow. Indeed, in all
its aspects, Hyderabad last February reminded me of
what Lucknow was in 1856. To this hour no mis-
sionary has ever had a home in Hyderabad, or dared
to preach the Gospel within its walls. When we went
through it last year it was almost in the same condi-
tions as formerly in Lucknow. We were taken on a
pair of elephants, under the protection of Colonel
Campbell, commander of the Resident's escort, and
accompanied by an armed guard. The "Resident"
is the English embassador at the court of the Nizam
of Hyderabad. This State is not ruled by the
English. It is one of the " protected " States.

The fanatical and armed Mohammedans, which go
swaggering through these bazaars, are a terror to every
one, even to their own government; violence and
murder are of constant occurrence. The Nizam's
own life is not safe — he must be carefully guarded,
and what he eats and drinks have to be scrutinized
and tested with great care. His prime minister. Sir
Salar Jung (considered to be the most enlightened
native statesman that India has produced in our day),
w^as hated by this faction for his liberalism, and died
suddenly — it was feared by poison — only a few weeks
before we reached Hyderabad.

So turbulent are these fanatical followers of Mo-
hammed, that the English government (which keeps

158 Feom Boston to Baeeilly.

tlie peace among them all) is obliged to maintain in
cantonments, three miles away, twelve thousand
troops, of whom six thousand are British soldiers,
and to have the city effectually commanded from
certain strategic points with artillery, not for its own
protection, but solely for the peace and welfare of
this Kizam and his government, in this, the largest
native State in India. The Nizam would not be safe
for a day in his own capital from those furious and
ignorant ^'lewd fellows of the baser sort," who are
banded together and infest the city, were this pro-
tection withdrawn.

How much this people and their great capital need
the Gospel of peace! God grant thst, twenty-five
years hence — nay, long before that time— Methodism
(which is already in the vicinity, at Becunderabad)
may have won her way in, and be as peacefully lo-
cated here, and as great a power for good, as she is
to-day in Lucknow ! The former, in that case, will
then be no greater instance of the int-^rvention of
our wonder-working God than the latter is now, and
certainly both will be reckoned in the religious his-
tory of mankind as among the brightest e^xamples of
the power of providence and grace.

l^ever shall I forget that day, in 1856, when I first
saw Lucknow. The houses are flat-roofed, and being
elevated on the elephant to a level with every thing,
I there, for the first time, saw heathenism av^d Mo-
hammedanism as they really are.

From Boston to Bareilly. 159

I had been reading Bayard Taylor's book, " India,
China, and Japan ; " and was interested in his descrip-
tion of Lucknow. He stood on that iron bridge
across the Goomtee, and looked at the flowery city,
and wrote, " It was as lovely as the outer court of
paradise." But what unutterable vileness was reek-
ing within! Here were men and deeds that were
characterized by the Holy Spirit, when he grouped
such together in the fearful words, " earthly, sensual,
devilish : " but which may not be further particular-
ized. Enough to say, with Shakespeare,

" Not to be named, my Lord,
There is no chastity iu words to utter them."

Here were not merely armed ferocity, raging re-
ligious intolerance, but, worse than all, humanity
fallen so low in its rampant and shameless vice, as
openly to debase itself even unto hell ! Truly the
closing part of the first chapter of Romans might
have been written of Lucknow as justly as of Eome
itself. 1^0 wonder that there is a hell hereafter, or
that the Sepoy Rebellion was permitted to come and
sweep from the face of the earth, *vhich they defiled
by their presence, so many of these vile wretches,
" who, knowing the judgment of God, that they
which commit such things are worthy of death, not
only do the same, but have pleasure in them that do
them."

The weary hours of that ride drew at last to a

160 Feom Boston to Bareilly.

close, and I returned to tlie Eesidencj, discouraged
in mind and sick at heart. We had, evidently, a fear-
ful work before us in our attempt to evangelize such
a people as this. The question arose at last, could it
be done ? or must we yield up our hope, and adopt
the unbelieving views of our host? The dejection
went with me to my couch and banished sleep, till
my soul was filled with distress that bordered on de-
spair of accomplishing any thing.

Here was this guilty and colossal heathenism, that
we were sent to overthrow, pouring down its fierce
defiance upon us, and Satan standing at its side, sus-
taining it with all his policy and power, both evi-
dently holding us in contempt and scorn. What
could weak humanity do against such an alliance?
In a deeper sense than we ever knew came the words
to our memory : " Not by might, nor by power, but
by my Spirit, saith the Lord." How self-evident
was this truth now. How small, how weak and little
we felt ourselves to be. Every thing that looked
like self-sufficiency had fled, and a painful sense of
feebleness had come in their place.

I understood nc^t, at the time, the process through
which I was passing. But it was an experience that
comes, more or less, to every missionary who is
alone, and especially at the commencement of his
enterprise, and may be regarded as the missionary's
baptism, when God fits his messenger by such self-
renunciation and such absolute trust upon the Lord

From Boston to Bareilly. 161

alone, that the Ahnighty can use him as his instru-
ment. When a man has gone down thus low, till lie
can go no deeper, with self renounced, weakness
keenly felt, and God only remaining to be trusted
in, he then looks up, and humbly asks his all-sufficient
Master and Lord, how he is to carry out his commis-
sion in view of all this conscious inability ?

God's hour has then arrived, and there comes down
from heaven to tlie help of this poor weak creature,
what Dr. Judson calls, "the surest things in the
universe, the promises of God," to make him equal
through grace to the difficulties of his position. He
seizes these promises as his own, and begins to rise,
never to doubt or despond again. They relate to
himself, as the human instrument of the Lord's
work ; and to the final victory in which that work is
to result. To such a man, in such an hour, what an
inspiration to his soul are the words which meet all
his own deficiencies, when his Master says, " I the
Lord thy God will hold thy right hand, saying un-
to thee. Fear not, thou worm Jacob. ... I will
help thee. . . . Behold, I will make thee a new sharp
threshing instrument having teeth : thou shalt thresh
the mountains, and beat them small, and shalt make
the hills as chafE."

That poor " worm," so weak and breakable, will be

made strong enough to thresh the mountains ! How

wonderful, -how divine, is such a figure ! Then for

his blessed work, and its result, comes dowm into his
11

1C2 From Boston to Bakeilly.

soul the glorious promises, " the earth shall be full of
the knowledge" of the Lord, as the waters cover the
sea." " The idols he shall utterly abolish," and " the
Lord alone shall be exalted in the earth."

Blessed baptism ! for he is now " endued with
power from on high," and need never again doubt
nor be discouraged. He knows God will sustain him,
and is assured that he shall see victory over sin and
hell, and shall yet sing with exultation : " Now thanks
be unto God, which always causeth us to triumph in
Christ, and maketh manife&t the savor of his knowl-
edge by us in every place ! "

I desire to say earnestly to the Church, that she is
honored by having such men in her service in India
(as she has also elsewhere, no doubt). It is charac-
teristic of brave men that they "see their danger,
and yet face it." These devoted brethren have cer-
tainly done this, and the triumphs of which I am to
speak, as I have seen them, is the honor that God has
put upon their Christian faith and courage, as they
have toiled for her, and for the divine Master, in
whose name she sent them forth.

I have furnished the evidence of the seriousness
and risk of this service in the apprehension of the
political official under whose roof we were then
sheltered, as well as that of Mr. Tucker. But it is
due to the facts in the case, and to the glory of divine
truth and grace, that I should add one or two testi-
monies more from other parties, and let them leave

From Boston to Bareilly. 163

their record as part of tlie early history of the Meth-
odist Church ill India. One of these is furnished by
Bishop Heber himself, the author of the hymn,

"From G-reenland's icy mountains,
From India's coral strand,"

whose zeal and holy courage were of the highest
order.

Many years before we entered this valley he had
traveled through its entire length, and had been enter-
tained in this same Eesidency. But his apprehensions
of the serious nature of the risk that would have to
be run in any attempt to introduce Christianity here,
were awakened as soon aa he reached Benares, and
realized the energy and fanaticism of this race. They
were repeated when he reached Lucknow, and had
studied the condition of things there. He writes :

"The custom of street-preaching, of which the
Baptist and other dissenting missionaries in Bengal
are very fond, has never been resorted to by those
employed by the Church Missionary Society, and
never shall be as long as I have any influence or
authority over them. I plainly see it is not neces-
sary, and I see no less plainly, that, though it may
be safe among the timid Bengalese, it would be very
likely to produce mischief here. All that the mis-
sionaries do is, to teach schools, to read prayers, and
preach in their churches^ and to visit the houses of
such persons as wish for information on religious
subjects."

lG:t From Boston to Bareilly.

At Lucknow lie added : "It would not be ex-
pedient at present to send a missionary here ; but
the J might have a school-master, furnished by our
society, with a stock of sermons to be read every
Sunday." *

Even he felt the overawing influence of this colossal
and fierce resistance to Christianity, while the pro-
vision for his own safety, " an escort of fifty armed
men," requiring " three elephants and twenty-two
camels for their baggage and tents," shows what was
then the situation, and the dangers to be anticipated.

But, on the Bishop's plan of doing missionary
work, the result would have been very small at the
end of twenty-five years. These people will not
enter a Christian place of worship until they become
interested in Christianity. There is no other way to
reach them, but to go into the streets and market-
places, and there address them. Of course, they who
first undertake to do this accept the risks involved.
But the Bishop thought tliese risks too great, and in-
terposed his authority to prevent his own missionaries
from assuming tliem. Yet, what would he have said
had he then been told tliat, finding such methods
were necessary to their success, even they would dis-
card his counsel, and would yet imitate the practice of
"the dissenting missionaries," and that, too, not only
" among the timid Bengalese," in and around Cal-
cutta, but also elsewhere. Or, what would he have

* Journal, vol. i, pp. 299, 406.

From Boston to Bareilly. 105

thought, if told that missionaries of a Church of
which, probably, he had never heard, would ere long
come here, where his words were written, who would
have the courage, as Mr. Atherton said, " to face the
devil in his den," and, clad in heaven's own panoply,
" be able to stand against all his wiles;" having to
wrestle, not only with flesh and blood — misguided and
ignorant Sepoys — but with foes infernal, who inspired
and directed their rapine and rage, as they fought to
close the gates of this city and this country against
the Hedeemer of mankind and his missionary ministry !
Well we knew that we have had to wrestle against
more than visible and mortal foes, even " against
principalities, against powers, against the rulers of
the darkness of this world, against spiritual wicked-
ness in high places."

How would the Bishop's amazement have cul-
minated, had it been added, that, within ten years of
the time when the

" Rude alarm of raging foes,"

whose head-quarters would be around this very
Residency, another Bishop, when that Residency had
become a ruin, and a perpetual memorial of Chris-
tian victory, would sit calmly, almost under its
shadow, organizing those missionaries into an Annual
Conference, and that some of the twenty-seven
native helpers whom he appointed to labor with
them, would have flowing in their veins the blood of
that Sepoy race !

1G6 From Boston to Baeeilly.

During the years when I have gone round my
wide district in that land, alone in my palanquin,
or slept, as I have done, in a caravanserai, with none
but natives around me, and no white man within
thirty or forty miles, often have I reflected gratefully
on the wonderful change that God had wrought in
Oude since Bishop Heber passed through it and
wrote these words.

Nor was the powerful and experienced governor, or
the lordly and gifted ecclesiastic, alone in their solici-
tude as to the turbulent character of the race north
of the Ganges. Believing that the proper way to
win that valley for our divine Master was to occupy
it at once and strongly^ especially when Christian
civilization had shown itself to be invincible, and the
apprehension had gone down deep into the native
mind that the spread of our holy religion was inevi-
table, I had proposed to some noble-hearted Christian
men, in the civil and military services, that if they
would stand by me and help liberally to provide
houses for them, I would ask for twenty -four mis-
sionaries, and occupy with them all the leading cities
of the valley, so that Christianity might rise right
lip with the new state of things that had been in-
augurated. Their valor had, under God, opened for
Christianity a grander opportunity than it had ever
before seen there. It was their victories that whipped
the fierce conceit out of those subdued millions, who,
in their ignorance, had undertaken to annihilate the

From Boston to Bareillt. 167

last remnant of Christianity from their country.
God had used these brave men to fulfill his promise
to us, that every impediment in the way of our work,
visible and invisible, should be removed : " I will go
before thee, and make the crooked places straight : I
will break in pieces the gates of brass, and cut in
sunder the bars of iron."

Tlie pious men among them sympathized heartily
with the work which we had now to undertSike, and
for the fulfillment of which their sufferings and victo-
ries had opened the way. So they subscribed thou-
sands of rupees to aid my proposition. Our Mis-
sionary Board accepted the generous aid, and prom-
ised to supply the missionaries. I drew up a circular
and appeal, and waited on General Sir James Ou-
tram, then head of the government of Oude, in suc-
cession to Sir Henry Lawrence, who had been killed
during the siege of the Eesidency.

I shall long remember the surprise and exclama-
tion of the brave officer, as he finished reading the
circular and looked at me. He was in his office, and
surrounded by some of his staff. Handing the paper
back, he exclaimed :

" >[ow, sir, do you want to provoke a second Sepoy
rebellion?"

" No, Sir James, I do not," was my reply.

" Well, sir, this looks very like it ; why, it is an in-
vasion I Twenty-four missionaries ! " Then warm-
ing up more, he asked, "Have you no discretion ? If

1C8 From Boston to Bareilly.

this thing is to be done, can't you do it with some
policy? Why not quietly introduce them, one here
and another there, and not alarm the kingdom Avith
your twenty-four all at once ? " On he rattled in the
same strain, and at length brought up with the decla-
ration, " No, sir, I wont give a rupee to help your
proposal. It's dangerous, sir ; it's dangerous ! "

It was all in vain to remind him that they had to be
distributed over a wide area, from forty to fifty miles
asunder, and that God, wliose Gospel of peace they
were to preach, would take care that their presence
and labor, so far from proving a danger to British
rule, would become the source of great strength and
blessing to it, as is already tlie case, l^o ; he was
too much excited to see it in that light. He was
alarmed, and would give neither aid nor sympathy to
our project !

!N^ow, here was one of " the bravest of the brave "
— the man who acted so magnanimously toward
Havelock, and who led the cavalry so grandly on the
day of the mighty struggle of that little host with
the whole army of Oude, crossing the Goomtee, and
taking the Sepoy host on the flank, and so completing
the wonderful victory ; ^^et he shrunk back when
asked to help a little body of Christian missionaries
who were claiming those heathen as the inheritance of
the Son of God. Not all the rewards and decorations
of earth could have induced him to consent to lead
these " soldiers of Christ " on to the contest with " the

From Boston to Bareilly. 169

rulers of the darkness of tliis world." The brave
man, so worthily designated by his contemporaries
" The Bayard of India," sleeps to-day in Westminster
Abbey, the mausoleum of England's illustrious dead ;
but he did not possess that celestial courage, con-
ferred with their commission, by " the Captain of
our salvation," upon his "called and faithful and
chosen " servants, who would dare " stand u[) for
Jesus " in that Lucknow bazaar, and enter upon that
struggle for evangelical victory which the bishop and
the general both regarded as so full of peril !

Ah 1 many a missionary has won, and will wear
forever, a decoration of honor and triumph, in com-
parison of which '' The Victoria Cross " and " The
Star of India " are not worthy to be compared.

Occasionally one meets at home some people who
desire to be regarded as wise men in missionary mat-
ters, and consider themselves capable of criticising the
devotion of their brethren in the held, even to tlie ex-
tent of depreciation. Qt'^t these said, some time ago,
that " the heroic^'^ ?, vas not very prominent m
our modern mis.,>jas.'' iow little such people know
wliat they are saying hen they talk thus, and how
differently they wouki expect to be spoken of if they
themselves had stood this test, and these gratuitous
remarks were made concerning them and their sacri-
fices and labors. ; If there are ministers on earth
regarding whom our divine Master utters the cau-
tion, " Touch not mine anointed, and do my prophets

170 From Boston to Bareilly.

no harm," it is such men as these humble, modest
missionaries, whose devotion and holy courage " the
apostles, elders, and brethren at Jerusalem " would
have gladly commended and honored, as "men who
have hazarded their lives for the name of the Lord
Jesus." Such men can afford to be modest and
patient. Their work, so quietly and courageously
and well done, is their ample defense. Their Master
will take good care that their faithful service shall
have full honor and reward " in that day."

I know now what many of them have passed
through, and how long and patiently they have borne
" the burden and heat of the day," doing their work
free from ambition or self-seeking, only intent on
winning souls for Christ, and desiring no human ap-
plause, but of whom, nevertheless, it may honestly be
said:

" Their album is the heathen breast,

Where darkness broods and demons rest,

Without a ray of light ;

To write the name off ^esus there,

And point to worlds V^\e bright and fair,

Is their supreme de\.^^^;
^ ^OSSl

But here we are at LuckrPV again, at the close
of a quarter of a century since that interview with
Sir James; and we are here to contemplate the
results of the effort which he declined to aid, from
apprehension of its dangers. Me'i^nwhile our mis-
sionaries have toiled patiently, wim faith in God.
They have said but little of their \trials, lest they

From Boston to Bareilly. 171

should be misunderstood, and have spoken modestly
of thdir success, lest they should seem to boast. In-
deed, some of them were not fully conscious of how-
high the tide had risen around them till I pointed
out the water marks of other days ; so that I had the
satisfaction of encouraging them by the comparisons
I was able to make for them, not only as to the com-
mencement, but even as to the state of the work
eighteen years ago, when I left India, compared with
its advanced condition as I found it now. It was a
privilege to be able thus to " strengthen their hands
in God."

172 Fkom Boston to Bareilly.

CHAPTER Y.

" So did I speak, because my heart was sore,
Musing, 0 India, on thy sins and pains,
"What time I stood on these outstretcliing plains,

"Where messenger of peace ne'er stood before.

A generation since lias passed, and more,

Not now that horror of great darkness reigns ;
The starless night of desolation wanes.

And their fresh songs the birds of raornliig pour.

Glory to God, in earth and liighest heaven !

See countless souls, in throes of a new birth 1

Soon shall heaven's joy that ancient sorrow chase,

And loving much, because so much forgiven,

Shall India, trurapet-tongued, proclaim to eaith
The unsummed riches of redeeming grace. "

— Dr. M. Mitchell.

The morning after our arrival in Liicknow (in
1883) we went early to attend service in our English
church, a beautiful and commodious place of wor-
ship. A congregation of over three hundred was
present. This congregation sustains its own pastor,
and meets its expenses, and also aids in the work
among the natives. The same ma;y be said of our
other English churches in Nynee Tal and Cawnpore,
and, in part, of those at Seetapore, S hah jehan pore,
Bareilly, Moradabad, and Chandausi. All the rest of
our congregations in that Conference, about one hun-
dred and fifty in number, are entirely native work.

From Boston to Bareilly. 173

The life and power of godliness are well sustained
in their English charges, and the " Desarah " meet-
ings are services held annually during the " Doorga-
pooja " vacation, for the revival of the work of God.
The Oude District Conference is held at the same
time ; and this is immediately followed by the native
camp-meeting. Here, of course, our principal interest
was concentrated.

To us it was a real surprise to see the preparations
for the camp-meeting, made in one of the large cen-
ters of the city, under the trees through which we
came the night before. Expressing our astonishment,
we were informed that sanction was granted by the
municipal authorities.

The English government has of late been wisely
extending liberal institutions to the towns and cities,
giving them considerable self-government, under the
forms of municipal corporations. The effect is good
and is not abused. To our surprise, here was this
body of native gentlemen, who have become so con-
ciliated toward Christianity, that they extend to us all
of liberty of action which we could desire in our work,
and were kind enough even to loan some of the tents
that were required for the occasion.

And this is Lucknow ! and these are the people
who resisted Havelock, and aimed to destroy every
thing Christian and English from their city and the
country at large, in 1857! The canrip-meeting was
held under the trees in that center, where half a

174 From Boston to Bareilly.

dozen roads meet, without the slightest disturbance,
and in such peace that we had not, and did not re-
quire, a single policeman for our protection. I will
describe one of those meetings.

Tlie congregation consisted of more than four hun-
dred native Christians inside the tent, sitting down,
native fashion, on the carpet, which covered the wliole
space. Around these stood, under the " kanats," or
wings of the tent, thrown up to give them shade— an-
other congregation of heathens and Mohammedans,
who looked on and listened with surprise to all that
was said and done there. The praying seemed par-
ticularly to impress them. They looked, but saw no
shrine, no idol or symbol of a deity — on tlie contrary,
our prayers were directed upward, " to the hills from
whence cometh" our "help," because our God vras in
the heavens. What a lesson they had of the spir-
ituality of the Deity ! They seemed as if they should
not forget it. Eight hearty was the singing, and the
prayers fervent.

After the sermon Dr. Johnson, the presiding
elder, exhorted, and invited penitents forward for
prayers. Several came, and kneeled down on either
side of the stand, the men on the right hand side and
the women on the left (the sexes sit apart in India),
and, what showed the good training they had received
was, that with each penitent there would come forward
one or two of the church members, the men with the
men and the women with the women. They would

From Boston to Bareilly. 175

kneel with them, and aid them all they could in seek-
ing mercy. The whole assembly bowed down, and
joined in the effort. To me it was a wonderful hour.
Seldom have I witnessed more fervent pleading with
God. The earnestness suggested to my mind the
words, " There was a great cry," yes, " strong crying
and tears to Him who was able to save." No confu-
sion, notliing to criticise, all engaged imploring mercy
for these poor souls.

But still the heathen looked on, some of them as
if awe-struck with the wonderful scene. And this
was in Lucknow! That fact kept constantly recur-
ring to my mind. I reflected, what would llavelock
have thought, or Bishop Heber, or Sir James Outram
have said, had this scene been foretold them !

Yet here it was, not in imagination or hope, but in
all its glorious reality, the sons and daughters of the
Sepoy race holding camp-meeting in the center of
the Sepoy capital ! God had, indeed, " chosen the
weak things of the world to confound the things
which are mighty, . . . that no flesh should glory in
his presence." Here, too, unto these people, once and
for so long without a ray of Gospel light, Christ Jesus
was of God made unto them " wisdom, and righteous-
ness, and sanctification, and redemption." Hallelu-
jah ! We glory in the Lord.

As the pleading with God closed. Dr. Johnson en-
couraged those who had come forward to acknowledge
what the Lord had done for their souls. Thirteen of

176 Fkom Boston to Bareilly.

tliem did so, and truly "confessed Christ before men,"
then and there. We rejoiced with them, as, no
doubt, did the angels of God, which were hovering
over us.

During the meeting there were some converts
baptized. It was pleasant to witness their zeal and
earnestness. One of the party was old, and finding
some of the candidates taking the vows in a feeble
voice, he. called out to them, " Speak up ! "

Receiving the ordinance, they laid their i-ight hand
on their breast, and bent the head forward. It
looked so devout, and for them the holy rite meant
60 much more than it usually does with us.

The Sabbath was "one of the days of the Son of
man." From seven o'clock in the morning till half
past ten at night, service after service, at brief inter-
vals, had filled up the golden hours. The love-feast in
the morning was glorious. Never before had I seen
so many native Christians together, or heard so many
of them testify for the Lord Jesus.

The women were as ready as the men. And the
burden of testimony was, salvation in Christ, and how
they loved their Saviour. One venerable man, who
had tried Hindu rites thoroughly, gave his simple
experience in this fashion : " Brahma, Yishnu, and
Shiva did nothing for me ; Satan was still in my heart
till I saw Jesus."

Surely this is the true Gospel, deliverance of the
soul and life from sin and the power of Satan, by the

From Boston to Bareilly. 177

grace of the Lord Jesus Christ, received and confessed.
Even the external aspect of the occasion was hon-
orable to Christianity. For every one of them, the
poorest as well as those better off, had made the most
of their circumstances in the way of cleanliness and
tidy clothing. There was a brightness and pure as-
pect over the scene, which intimated their conviction
that " cleanliness is next to godliness." The women
and their daughters looked nice, and their dark eyes
gleamed v/ith intelligence and goodness. On each
lap lay the Bible and hymn-book, ready to follow
the minister in the service.

In all India, heathenism could not furnish, from the
same class of persons, such a scene as this, even apart
from its piety ; Christianity alone can create it :
and the tendency is all the time upward, as the senti-
ments born of intelligence and self-respect develop
themselves. Their bodies, their clothing, and their
homes intimate their Christianity.

Slowly, but surely, they are rising as a class, not-
withstanding the persecution and poverty through
which they have struggled up to their present stand-
ing. Even the enemies of their religion are beginning
to respect them, and to recognize the fact that Chris-
tianity does elevate its disciples. I could clearly see,
by contrasting with the past, the change and improve-
ment in both respects, and rejoiced to see them. But,
precious above all, was the religious advance that I

readily recognized. Here was the grandest improve-
1*2

178 From Boston to Bareilly.

ment. l^o longer leaning heavily on us for every
item of instruction and spiritual help, and yielding
little in return of stimulus to our faith and relig^ious
feelings, I found many of them now able to stand
alone, in full and conscious conviction of the help of
the indwelling Comforter, and drawing their confi-
dence and strength from His grace and guidance,
rather than from our humble and reiterated instruc-
tions, as in the days gone by. More of God and less
of man, in their experience ; and yet, with a higher
appreciation than they had before, of all the good
that we can do them by our instruction and example.

Their faith, their experience, and their power in
prayer have begun to be a real beneiit to the mission-
aries, and a help in carrying on the work of God.
'No longer having to take them by the hand, to assist
them over every little difficulty, they can now " run
and not be weary." They can be more relied upon,
and are quietly advancing in every element of power.

This fact was pleasingly illustrated in this very
service. The presiding elder, anxious to have more
divine unction in the meeting, rose and exhorted
them to seek a richer baptism of the Holy Spirit, and
proposed that we prostrate ourselves before God and
seek it. He selected the person whom he thought
would best lead the audience to the throne of grace,
and quietly said, "Will Sister Caroline please pray?"
and "Sister Caroline" did pray. How evident it was
that she knew how — that she had "power with God"

Fkom Boston to Bakeilly. 179

— that lier faith could claim the blessing and bring it
down upon that bowed assembly. There was more
in that pleading than a rich, full voice ; there was an
unction in those simple earnest words of that sister,
as she talked with God, and implored him to grant
us that baptism for which we waited before liim.
The tone of the service rose, and was sustained to
tlie close, by the blessing which came down in answer
to the prayer of that native Christian woman.

As the meeting drew to a close, the elder rose,
and said, "Now, I want all of you who enjoy the
witness of the Holy Spirit, and consider yourselves
consecrated to Christ forever, to rise to your feet in
evidence of it." My heart bounded, and I earnestly
looked to see what response would be given to such a
proposal as that. They rose in all parts of the tent,
so many that I was surprised and delighted. Some
of them were about to sit down, when the elder said,
" Please don't sit down ; remain standing a few mo-
ments while I ascertain the extent of this testimony,
and until Brother Butler can see what God has
wrought." They stood, and he counted rapidly.
Then turning to me, his face radiant, he said, "There,
Brother Butler, there are standing before you now
more than three hundred souls that God has saved ! "

I shall never forget, the joy of that moment, or the
adoring gratitude I felt to Him whose high. work of
redemption was there displayed before us, with all
the future which that scene intimated for Oude and

180 Fkom Boston to Baeeilly.

for India, as well as the past, which it so contrasted !
How Utting to the hour and the facts were the words
that rushed to our memory : " Great and marvelous
are thy works, Lord God Almighty; just and true
are thy ways, thou King of saints. Who shall not
fear thee, O Lord, and glorify thy name ? for thou
only art holy: for all nations shall come and wor-
ship before thee ; for thy judgments are made mani-
fest."

And this was in Luchnow^ where a few years ago
our divine Saviour had been so fiercely blasphemed,
his claims defied, his religion trampled under foot,
and his followers slain with tlie sword ! The locality
and its antecedents made the grace seem more won-
derful than it could be elsewhere.

The sacramental service in the church was worthy
of the time and place. No caste there. How Chris-
tian it looked to see all these varieties of color and
race and class kneelnig round that altar. The Amer-
ican, tlie English, the Sikh, the Rohilla, the Eurasian,
along with the varieties of caste from the Brahmin
to the Pariah, " all one in Christ Jesus," all sharing
in those elements, " the communion of the body and
blood of Christ."

The central figures at one table were the Kajah
Hernaii Singh and his lady. In distributing to them
the elements, and remembering who he was, I saw an
additional evidence of the power of our mighty Sav-
iour. The Eajah is brother of the reigning Eajah of

From Boston to Bareilly. 181

Kupurthulla, whose father, for loyalty to the English
government during the Sepoy E-ebellion, received
certain estates of defeated rebels in Oude. This
brother manages these estates, and is reckoned among
the nobility, or talookdars, of Oude. These India
barons are numerous, and were granted by the En-
glish government some special immunities. They
are a powerful body of men, and occasionally meet
together at Lucknow for consultation in regard to
their interests, which they can thus represent to the
paramount power.

This Kajah, in view of his higher education and his
knowledge of both languages, they elected as their
secretary and medium of intercoui*se with the su-
preme government, notwithstanding he is a Christian ;
which, in itself, is a pleasing evidence of the tolerance
of mind to which the talookdars of Oude have come.
His lady is worthy of him, a noble, educated woman,
the daughter of a native Christian minister.

Our mission is even already touching every class
and condition of society, " from the least unto the
greatest;" though our success is chiefly among the
poor, as has been the case in the early history of all
missions in heathen lands, as well as under our Sav-
iour's own ministry, who rejoiced that " to the poor
the Gospel was preached." But we look for the
time when the highest will bend with the humblest
at the feet of Him who is " Prince of the kings of
the earth," and yet who delights to lift the lowliest

182 From Boston to Baeeilly.

of those who love him to rank with dignities that
shall be " eternal in the heavens."

The last event of that glorious Sabbath will illus-
trate this point, showing how the very humblest of
all can be exalted to honor and joy that the highest,
who refuse Christ, know not and cannot appreciate.

The benediction had been pronounced, and we
were leaving the tent, when Rev. S. Knowles came
up to me and said, " Brother Butler, would you not
like to hear our Jungle Methodists sing ? " It
sounded so queer. " Jungle " means wild, unculti-
vated. It was a curious adjective to apply to Meth-
odists. I had seen about all the kinds there are of
these people throughout the world, but here in India
was something new, " Jungle Methodists! " Of course,
I could guess what the good brother meant, ])ut tlie
way it was put provoked a broad smile, and yet there
was gladness in the heart from tlie fact intimated,
til at the lonely dwellers in the Terai had already
learned to

" Join in the glad redemption song."

Yes, indeed, late though it was, we did want to hear
these Jungle Methodists sing. But a few words of
explanation are necessary here.

My readers may have seen some account of the
good work done by this faithful missionary, the Eev.
S. Knowles. This brother labors close up to the
Terai forest, which lies along the base of the Hima-
laya Mountains. Between the cultivated plains and

From Boston to Bareilly. 183

the foot of the hills is a space of about thirty miles,
almost entirely destitute of human habitations. It is
called the "Terai," and is a jungle — that forms a
paradise for thousands of elephants, tigers, leopards,
wolves, and other wild animals. During the day-
light these creatures lie up in their dens, and the
lierdsmen of the villages on the outside venture to
take in their cattle to graze. But, as soon as the
evening sun declines, they must leave ; for then that
stirring scene, so graphically described in the one
hundred and fourth Psalm, takes place : ** Thou mak-
est darkness, and it is night : wherein all the beasts of
the forest do creep forth. The young lions roar
after their prey, and seek their meat from God."
Often have I heard this roaring, as I have gone
through that Terai by night, on my way to Nynee Tal.
Bat no one dare venture to pass through, or remain
there, except under the protection of a torch. With
that you are safe, though in the midst of it and alone.
I presume that even a child, had he only sense enough
to hold up his lantern, might walk through it and be
safe. They would " roar," but would not come near
nor touch him. Such is the security of light. The
fact may well be an illustration of a higher protec-
tion from a fiercer foe, " the roaring lion, who walk-
eth about seeking whom he may devour," can seize
the human soul only in the darkness which that soul
wilfully prefers. " But the sober and vigilant " are
in the care of the good Shepherd ; " not walking in

184 From Boston to Baretlly.

darkness, tliey have tlie light of life," and are safe,
were a thousand devils prowling round them. Their
light protects them.

The British government realizes most of its reve-
nue in India by taxation on the cultivated land,
which is tilled under a settlement, made every thirty
years with the agricultural population.

Inside of the Terai there are open spaces, unincum-
bered by trees, where the soil is ricli, and here the
government allows people who are landless to go in,
burn off the grass, and break up and cultivate the
soil, without requiring taxation from them.

These people, of course, assume the risk, and have
to provide for their own protection. Not for one
hour after sunset could they or tlieir cattle be safe
without this provision of light. One of their number
has to be watchman, but his vigilance, in faithfully
keeping a fire burning, is ample and his fellow- vil-
lagers sleep in security and peace. Our mission ex-
tends its ministry over some of these Terai cultivators,
and so Christianity dwells with them in their jungle
home, and is all to them that it can be to those who rest
amid the luxury and safety of our highest civilization.

It is a historical fact that Christianity is the only
religion on earth that inspires people to sing, as a
part of divine worship, and she provides ample means
for the exercise of the privilege. This truth is in-
tensified in proportion as those who sing are evan-
gelical and holy. Such appreciate that "service of

From Boston to Bareilly. 185

song," for wliicli the Lord calls when he says, " Let
the people praise thee, O God ; yea, let all the people
praise thee." We see the provision which evangel-
ical Christianity makes for this dehghtful duty in the
immense variety and number of the hymn and tune
books which she furnishes for her adherents. Mo-
hammedanism has no hymnal, nor has Hinduism,
nor Buddhism. No glorious outburst of sacred song
from the hearts and lips of these people ever awoke
the echoes of any heathen or Mohammedan temple,
and never will till those temples become the churches
of our Lord Jesus Christ.

Why should they sing ? Singing is the language
of gratitude and joy, and the natural and sponta-
neous expression of exultant life. Eedemption and
song stand related as cause and effect; the appro-
priate language of salvation is singing. When God
transforms a mourning sinner into " a new crcature "
in Christ, and sets his feet upon the rock, and estab-
lishes his goings, he finishes his work of grace by
" putting a new song into his mouth, even praise unto
our God," and authorizes him to sing all the way to
the heavenly Zion, where he is to sing forever.

Taking up a concordance, I find (without enumer-
ating with accuracy) that so important is this joyful
duty in the estimation of our redeeming God, as a
part of the devotion which we owe him, and which
was designed to furnish such help to express our
adoration and joy, that the words, " sing," " singing,"

186 Fkom Boston to Bareilly.

"song," and "praise," are used in the liolj Script-
ures about three Imndred and twenty -six times.
Instruments to aid us in singing these praises are
commended, and the examples of saints and angels in
heaven are given to encourage us to exercise ourselves
in this holy service, so helpful to genuine piety.

No wonder, then, that the true people of God are
so fond of the privilege, and tliat not merely amid
its most elaborate manifestations, where —

" Through the long-drawn aisle and fretted vault,
The pealing anthem swells the note of praise;"

but also, and often more sincerely, in the humblest
places where he records his name ; so that in high-
land glens, in catacombs, in deep forests, in " the
inner prison," and even at the stake, God's redeemed
servants have ever loved to "sing unto the Lord,"
and heartily rejoice " in the rock of their salvation."

So, these humble dwellers in the Oude Terai are
in this "true succession." They sing and love to
sing, and also desire whatever help is possible to
them, that they may do it "lustily and with good
courage." Harps and cornets and organs they had
never heard, and could not afford, but they saw that
they could consecrate to holy purposes the simple
expedient used by their heathen neighbors for secular
and idolatrous festivities ; and thus the humblest of
all the instruments which helps the praise of God's
people anywhere, has become their assistant in such
glad service.

From Boston to Bareilly. 187

A gJiara — a vessel of earth baked in the sun — is
taken, the bottom carefully cut out, and a piece of
prepared skin is laid over and tightened up. The left
arm is introduced, and the instrument (which did not
cost ten cents) is played by the right hand, and the
sacred song is started and sustained according to the
ability and enthusiasm of the leader.

Here was the scene which Brother Knowles invited
me to w^itness at the close of that delightful Sabbatli.
It had been a day of high privileges from seven jn
the morning till after ten o'clock at night, and these
"Jungle Methodists" had enjoyed the holy festiv-
ities as much as anj^ one else. But, even after that
" feast of fat things^ and wine on the lees well re-
fined," they wanted to have a finish up and consum-
mation of the whole in the method so dear to them-
selves.

We found them sitting in a circle on the ground,
the leader watli the ghara in the center, and tliey sus-
taining him w^ith an earnestness and delight that it
was a privilege to witness. No careless one in that
liappy group. Every soul seemed intent, and sang as
if they were resolved to get out of the song and the
instrument all the jubilation it was possible to obtain
from them.

The song was a hhajan^ with verses having two
lines each, and a chorus to them. It was all about

" Tlie precious blood,

That cleanseth from all sin."

188 From Boston to Bakeilly.

Deep sympathy with the fervent and holy song
seemed to absorb all their attention, and their bod-
ies swayed to and fro as they sung so rapturously.
After listening a long time we left them singing, and
I believe they continued till near midnight.

Some one has written that

" Music hath charms to soothe the savage breast,
To soften rocks, or bend a knotted oak."

I have never l)eheld rocks and oaks so miraculously
affected, but have seen here "greater things than
these." Heathen breasts not only "soothed," but en-
raptured ; heathen hearts not only " softened," but
renewed; and rugged wills and lives not only
" bent," but sweetly pliant to the rectitude of a holy
life, all to the praise and glory of God.

Modern miracles truly, wrought on the bodies and
souls of some, even of the lowliest of mankind.

The proud deluded worldlings, who give their gold
for the opportunity of listening to the godless strains
of the theater and opera, — sung often by libertines
and women of clouded reputation, — would, perhaps,
have no smile to bestow upon this simple music of
the soul. But they are incapable of understanding
or appreciating either its source or its object. JS'ev-
ertheless, it is true that, to such strains as these, de-
lighted angels would stoop to listen, while disgusted
devils, unable to endure the theme that so enraptured
them, would hasten to flee away ! Their sanctifying

From Boston to Bareilly. 189

song is not the felicity of an hour, nor does it last,
like the pleasures of sin, only "for a season." It
" springs up into everlasting life ; " they are singing
now, and ere long will join the music of the skies,
and be entitled to listen enraptured to

" The first archangel as he sings," ^

and then claim their share in the mighty chorus of
the saved and unfallen Church of the Crucified.

They were a happy circle, those " Jungle Method-
ists," and forcibly reminded us of the divine predic-
tion, which was here literally fulfilled, that "they
that dwell in the wilderness shall bow before Him."

The work of the Woman's Foreign Missionary
Society in Lucknow, under the efficient superintend-
ency of Miss Thoburn, was to us a wonder and a
joy. What could more fully indicate the amazing
changes that God has accomplished here than the
presence and successful labors of this devoted band
of Christian women ? Further on, when I shall have
seen more of this precious form of missionary service,
I will speak in detail regarding it, and shall then also
have more opportunity, as there will not be so much
to be described as there is in Lucknow, in view of
the extent and variety of our agency in this great
city.

Miss Blackmar's peculiar work, in her " Home for
Homeless Women," is one of heaven's richest chari-
ties. Divine providence has placed in her hands

190 From Boston to Bareilly.

premises near our clinrcli, and tliese grateful women,
rescued and saved by Christian sympathy, are doing
all they can by their labor, according to their ability,
to support themselves, so that, with some help, given
by Christian friends in Lucknow, the wants of the
institution arc all met.

It was our great privilege to be in time to attend
the dedication of our Centennial Iligli School, and
witness the annual distribution of prizes.

For many years this school had been desired and
prayed for by our mission. Its existence was a neces-
sity resulting from our success. With thirteen thou-
sand children in our day schools, receiving a Christian
education, and with a native ministry to train, this
school became of supreme importance to the standing
and extension of our great work in India.

It was opened in February, 1877, with forty stu-
dents, and, notwithstanding the inconvenience of the
rented building in which it was held, until proper
premises could be procured, the attendance has risen
regularly year by year, until three hundred and fifty
students are now enrolled upon its books.

God answered the prayer of our brethren, and at
last a suitable site was obtained, and funds for the
erection of a good building were contributed — a fine
campus of six acres, on an elevation close to the Resi-
dency^ was donated by the native municipality, and
they added a grant of four thousand rupees for the
erection of the tower and clock.

From Boston to Baeeilly. 191

A suitable building, with chapel and twelve reci-
tation-rooms, had been completed, and were to be
dedicated on this occasion. It may interest my readers
to look at the programme, so I insert it here.

CENTENNIAL HIGH SCHOOL.

DISTRIBUTION OF PEIZES.

Lucknow, Dec. 1, 1883.
CHAIR TO BE TAKEN BY J. QUINN, ESQ., C. S.,

COMMISSIONER OF LUCKNOW.

Anthem Arouse Tliee !

(Christianity's Call to India.)

PRAYER BY REV. DR. JOHNSON.

Urdu Poem. .Praise of the New School Building^ and Welcome to

Dr. Butler.

Shunker Dayal Farhat.

English Essay Education.

Isaac Angelo.
Song Keep to tJie Right^ Boys 1

Sanskrit Poem The Mystery of Life.

Probodh Chunder Roy.

Arabic Essay Morality.

Saiyad Mahammed GhulIm Jabbar.

Bengali Poem .... /m?ia's Welcome to the Duke and Duchess of

Connaiiglii.

Dinonath Chuckerbutty.

Native Bhajan Mubarakhadi e Jalsa.

B. Mayal BahXr.

Persian Essay The Centennial High School.

Amir All

Hindi Verses Kabir Dds^ Philosophy.

Abinath Chdnder Roy.

Urdu Prose Composition . Episode in the Life of an Indian School-boy,
Thomas Barrow.

192 I'kom Boston to Baretlly.

Song, Tkancadillo . . Invitation to a Sailing Excursion on the Goomtee

Nodi.

ANNUAL REPORT OF THE PRINCIPAL.

Distribution of Prizes.

ADDRESS BY THE CHAIRMAN, J. QUINN, ESQ.

Hymn " Bringing in the Sheaves.'''*

Address The Opening of t/ie New Sclwol Building.

Rev. W Butler, D.D.

Declaring the New Building Open for Educational Purposes.

By the Commissioneb.
"Malika Salamat Ho."

Even " Trancadillo" was a sign of tlie times. Here
was " the tender passion " doing homage to woman.
The song was addressed to the "fair maidens" pres-
ent, by the gallant young gentlemen, asking the honor
of their company in a sailing excursion on the River
Goomtee, which flows through Lucknow, and avow-
ing that,

" The lovely should still
Be the care of the brave,"

and also pledging themselves, if the " maidens fair "
would only accompany them, that,

" We will shape our heart's course
By the light of your smiles."

It was but a little thing, yet it intimated the future
that Christianity is bringing in for woman, when she
should be no longer disposed of, in the highest inter-
ests of her life, as though she were a cow or a bale of
merchandise, at the selfish whim of her natural pro-
tectors. But, when her intelligent soul will be ad-

From Boston to Bareilly. 193

dressed in tones respectful and affectionate, and
invited to link lier life with the person she, in the
freedom of her choice, prefers — Christianity will vin-
dicate the right of honest nature to speak, and to hear,
and to respond ; and the good God will deliglit to
look down upon many a quiet scene (now unknown
there outside of Christianity) where manly Christian
youth will plead his own case in person, and win it,
too, not by his list of '^ gift and dowry," and the me-
diation of a go-between, but because "he spoke to
the heart of the damsel."

On this programme let me ask attention to 'a few
facts. This event occurred in Lucknow, and close
to that ever-famous Eesidency. The gentleman pre-
siding is the English governor of that city, and by his
side sat tlie Christian liajah, Hernan Singh, already
mentioned. The building was crowded with the schol-
ars and their parents and friends, about one half of
the number being heathen and Mohammedans. Many
of the elite of the city were among them, and seemed
to enjoy the occasion and the exercises as much as
any one else. The graduates nsed seven languages in
their papers — the Urdu (Hindustanee), the Hindee,
and Bengalee, with their classics (the Persian, the
Arabic, and Sanskrit), besides the English. It is a
sign of the times that one half of the exercises on
that occasion were in the English tongue. It was a
decidedly Christian occasion. There was the opening

prayer, in the name of Jesus, offered by the presiding
13

194 Fkom Boston to Bakeilly.

elder. The antliem was glorious. It was "Cliris-
tianitj's Call to India." I give tlie words here !

"Arouse thee! Arouse thee! Arouse thee I
From slumber ! Arouse thee !

From the dead arise,
Christ will give thee light ;

Trust in him forever,
He thy rock, thy strength and might,
Thy sword, thy banner and shield.
Awake ! Awake ! Arise from the dead !

Arouse thee I Arouse thee ! Arouse thee 1 "

The closing hymn, "Bringing in the Sheaves," was
appropriate to the occasion. What its significance
was to us, in view of the past, my readers may-
imagine.

In my address, which followed this hymn, I recog-
nized what God had wrought in Lucknow since I
first entered it, to make such a scene as this possible ;
and then called the attention of our worthy chairman
to the discouragement which I received from his pred-
ecessor in office twenty-seven years before.

He seemed surprised that any Englishman or
Christian could doubt the ability of our holy religion
to reach and save these people, or any people.
But words would fail to express adequately what
that occasion was to us in view of the fearful past,
with which our memory kept all the time contrast-
ing it !

We finished with a hearty singing by all present
of the last item- on the programme, " Malika salamat

Fkom Boston to Bareilly. 195

ho-' (God save the Queen), in the Ilindustanee lan-
guage. I give the words :

" Malika salamat ho
Ya Allah Malika ko

Rakh tu bakhah" :
Kar tu use fathmand,
Khush-hal aur sarbuland,
Raj us ka iqbalraand :

Malika ki khuir ! "

The value of this Christian college to our work in
India must be clear to every thoughtful person ; but
here 1 will quote a few sentences in illustration of
this from the circular of Eev. B. H. Badley, A.M.,
the present principal of the college :

" During the first two years only Christian students
were admitted ; but as others desired to attend, and
were willing to study the Bible and conform to all
the regulations of the school, they were enrolled as
day-scholars, and Christians and non-Christians are
now found in all the classes. The plan has worked
well, and it is hoped that the daily contact with
Christian teachers and students may be the means of
bringing many of the others to Christ, and that tlie
institution may thus become a powerful evangelizing
agency. The Bible is a daily text-book, and in the
lower classes the Church Catechisms are taught.
While the school is chiefly intended for Cliristian
boys, its projectors feel that they are justified in
seeking to extend the sphere of its helpful influence,

196 Feom Boston to Baeeilly.

aud tlius, following the example of the Christian col-
leges in Calcutta, Madras, and elsewhere, they do not
close its doors to the Hindu and Mohammedan youth
who seek admission.

" The need of such an institution is seen in the fact
that already the school has drawn students from all
parts of Central and North India, from Calcutta, Al-
lahabad, Cawnpore, Agra, Gujrat, Jeypore, Morada-
bad, Bareilly, Shahjahanpore. Paori, and elsewhere ;
and now, with suitable buildings, and a strong staff
of first-class teachers, there is no doubt that the at-
tendance will speedily be doubled.

" The patronage of the school is not confined to
our own Church. Students in attendance have rep-
resented the Church of England, the Presbyterian,
United Presbyterian, Wesleyan, Baptist, and other
Churches, and thus it will be in the future. Within
a circle of four hundred and fifty miles there is no
other boarding-school for Christian boys, and in the
territory thus indicated there are several flourishing
missions. The popularity of our Theological Sem-
inary at Bareilly has drawn students of other Church-
es in distant fields, and our Christian College will be
able to do the same.

" This school will be a great boon to our rapidly-
increasing native Christian community. It will in-
sure to the sons of our converts educational facilities
which otherwise they could not enjoy, and will thus
give a preparation which will enable them to com-

Fkom Boston to Baeeilly. 197

pete for situations in government service and other
departments which have liitherto been virtually closed
to them. As missionaries of a progressive Church,
which has always believed in schools and colleges,
encouraging in the most practical manner every ef-
fort for furthering the cause of education, we cannot
but feel concerned for the converts God is giving us
in India. We want not only a Church, but a strong,
intelligent, clear-headed, warm-hearted Church in
India, which shall be the means, in God's hands, of
advancing the interests of his kingdom here. We
would not be content to have our converts and their
children remain in the same low level of intelligence
where the Gospel found them. We wish for them
growth, advancement, success ; and one of the wisest
methods for insuring these is to found good schools,
whose uplifting influence shall be felt in years to
come.

"This institution, supplementing the work of the
lower schools in the mission, gives unity and com-
pleteness to our educational system, and thus adds to
the efficiency and satisfactoriness of all our educa-
tional work ; without it we should have the discour-
agement of seeing our most interesting pupils de-
prived of religious instruction at the most critical
period of their education. In training young men to
become teachers this school will do excellent service,
as the demand in all parts of the field is rapidly in-
creasing. We could employ two hundred Christian

198 From Boston to Bareilly.

teacliers at once were they available. As they are
not, we are obliged to intrust many of our primary
schools to Hindu and Mohammedan teachers.

" The Christian College, like similar institutions at
home, will, also, be of assistance to our Theological
Seminary. By giving our young men a thorough
education before sending them to the Theological
School we shall render both them asd India Meth-
odism valuable service. Our work demands educated
native preachers, and this demand will be more
keenly felt every year. In towns and villages much
of the work can be done by those whose scholastic
attainments are not high — earnest, humble workers,
laboring among their own relatives ; but in our city
w^ork, and in various appointments, w^e must have
well-educated helpers, able to answer the numerous
and often difficult objections which our opponents
bring forward. Out of the one hundred and fifty
native preachers now employed in the North India
Conference, only one has 23assed the Calcutta Uni-
versity Entrance Examination (matriculation), a fact
which speaks for itself, and a very strong argument
in favor of a well-organized Christian college. Sev-
eral of the most promising students now attending
the Centennial School are planning to enter the The-
ological Seminary at Bareilly, and this number no
doubt will be larger year by year.

'' We find ourselves in the midst of a great educa-
tional movement. The intellect of India is awaking

From Boston to Bareilly. 199

from its sleep of more than twenty centuries, and
every-where the youth may be seen tln-onging toward
the school-room. We had boldly entered the coun-
try, and challenged Mohammedanism and Hinduism
to combat, and now we had no alternative short of
retreat left us, save that of manfully trying to meet
the momentous responsibilities which the intellectual
awakening had imposed upon us. It is idle to talk
of confining our w^ork to preaching alone. As well
try to persuade the Church at home to abolish her
colleges and seminaries. We had no choice. To
liave shrunk from our responsibility would have
been to postpone our final triumph for generations
to come, and consign the intellect of the country to
a depraved infidelity, compounded of the supersti-
tion of the Hindu, the bigotry of the Mohammedan,
and the Sadducean heartlessness of the European ra-
tionalist. We saw clearly that Christianity must at
once assume her full responsibility in trying to guide
this educational movement so as to make it a blessing,
instead of a curse, to India, and hence w^ere obliged to
adapt our plans to the emergency, giving our schools
a higher grade and a wider field in which to operate
than is usual in missions in other countries. ... A
great many colleges have sprung up throughout the
country in affiliation with the Calcutta University ; an
institution chartered by the government with full
university powers ; and our more advanced students
began to leave us in order to secure the superior ad-

200 Feom Boston to Bareit.ly.

vantages wliicli these institutions were able to offer.
It was seen by all that a college was a necessity. A
central institution, more or less directly connected
with all our schools, seemed necessary to keep our
students from leaving us, and save the prestige of
our mission.

" More than half of the endowment is yet to be
secured. That the Church at home should allow an
opportunity like this to pass unnoticed is not to be
thought of for a moment. Surely there are those
who will gladly aid in building up a Methodist
colleo:e in heathen India. We do not hesitate to ex-
press our full confidence in the final success of the
enterpi'ise. We believe, that in a country where the
utmost care is taken to divorce education and religion,
God will not fail to honor and bless the college that
whites Christian over its portals.

" Of the $50,000 desired for endowment, it is hoped
that some patron or patroness of the school may be
found who will give half the amount.

" The sum of $5,000 would found a professorship.

" Five hundred dollars a scholarship.

" The interest of this comparatively small sum, by
the strictest economy, would support a student, pay
for his clothes, food, and books, and when the holder
of the scholarship graduates another would take his
place. Thus the work would continue year by year,
a constant source of help and blessing. Forty schol-
arships are needed.

Fkom Boston to Bakeilly. 201

" This endowment should be all the sooner secured
when it is remembered that the government of India
stands ready to duplicate every dollar of the school's
income. The government is now giving the school
a monthly grant, which will be increased as rapidly
as the endowment is increased. Every donation in
America means a like donation in India. This fact
alone should stimulate to promptest action those who
believe in the salvation of India, and wish to help
in bringing this about. Seldom has there been a
grander opportunity than this for making an invest-
ment that shall yield large dividends in the estab-
lishing, upbuilding, and beautifying the native Church
of India."

We have thirteen Sunday-schools in the city of
Lucknow, containing fourteen hundred scholars. I
visited as many of them as my time allowed, and on
inquiring where they found teachers for so many
classes, was delighted to be informed that one half
of the requisite number were furnished from the
elder students of this college. Two or three years
of this experience serves as an excellent preparation
for religious service when they graduate.

They also accompany the missionaries to street
preaching and heathen fairs, and help in the work
there, singing and speaking to the people. Some of
them are good singers, and their help is very valu-
able.

Tlie elements in motion for intellectual supremacy

202 From Boston to Bareilly.

in India are clearly intimating the position wliich
Christianity is yet to hold over the minds of these
millions. Even now, while this religion is perse-
cuted, and its adherents are poor, its young men,
triumphing over all its difficulties, are rising more
rapidly already than are the youth of any other
creed. As an illustration, take one fact, lately no-
ticed by Dr. Thobum, in the India Witness. He
says :

" We have repeatedly called attention to the rapid
change which is taking place in the position of the
native Christians of India. They are still but a
handful, as compared with the great masses of the
Hindus and Mohammedans, but their advance in
education is, relatively, far beyond all other compet-
itors. The last number of the Harvest Field con-
tains a very striking statement of the relative num-
bers of Brahmins, non-Brahmin Hindus, Moham-
medans, and Christians, who passed the various exam-
inations of the Madras University. At the entrance
examination the four classes stood respectively as fol-
lows : 2,702, 1,303, 106, and 332. The percentage of
passes among the Christians was 45.4, and among the
Brahmins only 35.04, while the other two classes
were still lower. In the first arts examination the
Christian average was 59.6, the Brahmins 34.02, and
other Hindus 32.1. In the B.A. examination the
Christians held their advanced position, while the
Brahmins gained largely. Taken as a whole, the

From Boston to Baeeilly. 203

figures clearly show that the native Christians will,
in the course of two or three generations, take the
intellectual lead in India. Some of those who now
despise them would do well to study the past history
of Christian progress in all nations."

Our next visit was to the Mission Press. The ne-
cessity and importance of this agency of evangeliza-
tion was manifest to me from the beginning of our
mission.

I find in my report to the Missionary Board, dated
March 10, 1857, that even thus early I introduced
this subject to their attention, and added my earnest
hope in regard to it in these words : " I trust to live
to see some of our blessed literature sanctifying this
language, and carrying to the judgment and con-
sciences of thousands that we cannot reach directly
the pure, experimental Gospel of Christ."

As soon as my brethren readied me, and had time
to gain the language and study the requirements of
the situation, they, too, saw its imperative necessity,
not only for the millions around us, but also for our
converts, our schools, and our rising ministry.

Accordingly, when, in 1861, I had obtained encour-
agement and help from the Tract Society of our
Church, T made a proposition to the members of the
mission for a contribution among ourselves, so that a
commencement might be made. I had their earnest
sympathy in the matter. In gifts or loans about
$800 was raised. I appointed Brother Waugh, being

204 From Boston to Bakeilly.

a practical printer, to the charge, and our mission
press begun its useful career. A career that is des-
tined never to cease its beneficent action until Meth-
odism has finished its work in India.

It is pleasant now to remember that the first pro-
duction which issued from our press, in the language
of these millions, was a tract on the Wit7iess of the
Holy Spirit^ written by Brother Parsons, a copy of
which I sent to Dr. Durbin July 9. This was soon
followed by translations of Mr. Wesley's sermons on
The New Birth and Salvation hy Faith^ Catechisms,
Hymn Books, two Sunday-school books, and some
tracts. At the close of 1864, when the missions were
organized into an Annual Conference, the entire value
of the establishment had grown to be a little over
$3,000.

From this humble beginning has developed this
invaluable mission press in Lucknow, witli its cata-
logue of works in three languages — Hindustanee,
Ilindee and English, and from which our mission is
supplied with its present requirements, from a tract
to a biblical dictionary, or from a catechism to a
concordance.

Here are found periodicals, atlases, hymnals, biog-
raphies, school books, course of study, histories. Dis-
cipline, commentaries, grammars, conversion and life
of some of our native preachers, etc., so that their
little catalogue looks quite imposing already.

But as these brethren have come to comprehend

From Boston to Bakeilly. 205

the necessity and power of the press, not only for the
wants of the thousands of their converts and scholars,
but more especially for the future of their work
among the millions around them, they realize how
utterly inadequate are the present appliances of their
press for the work it must do, if they are to win the
success for which they pray.

Heathenism and Mohammedanism are at last thor-
oughly aroused, and are even endowing printing-
presses to arrest the onward march of Christianity.

"We have silenced many of their batteries by bazaar
preaching, but they are now transferring the battle
to the printed page, and are flooding the land with
misrepresentations of the Christian religion and its
divine Author. We must meet them here, also, in
the defense of our work, and for the final overthrow
of their false and wicked systems. That contest will
be fierce, and will rage for long years to come ; but,
as sure as God lives, it will end in victory for the
truth, if these devoted and cultured brethren are only
sustained with those " sinews of war " which the su-
preme occasion will demand. Happy and grateful
forever will be the liberal souls that will come to
their aid soon, to furnish the means by wliich this
contest will be turned to victory for Jesus, over all
the falsehood and sophistry of systems which have
stood for ages to pollute and crush the souls which
he died to enlighten and save.

Fifty thousand dollars would confer upon this mis-

206 From Boston to Baeeilly.

sion press a power for God and liis trutli the effect of
which no arithmetic could calculate, in this final con-
test, which is to lay low in the dust the enemies of
the Son of God, and place rescued and redeemed
India at his feet as her Master and Lord. Every
dollar of that amount contributed to help them will,
in its measure, accelerate that hour which the celestial
choirs are waiting to celebrate over this prostrate
and defeated heathenism, that " the kingdoms of
this world are become the kingdoms of our Lord
and of his Christ; and he shall reign for ever and
ever."

How grateful I shall be if any thing I may say
here, or elsewhere, shall be used by God to di-aw the
attention of those who have the heart and the means
to help this precious mission press in the immense
and hopeful work for Christianity which now lies
before it !

I saw in Lucknow a sight that is not often given
to men to witness in this world, and which I
have never forgotten since. Being here on the
ground, its significance has come back to me with
peculiar force, as I move amid so many of its results.
It was when our siege was raised at IS^ynee Tal by
the coming up of Havelock's invalids under convoy.
This opened our roads, and I returned to Oude, and
entered Lucknow for the second time. Sir Eobert
Montgomery was then the head of the government,
in succession to Sir Henry Lawrence. He believed in

Fkom Boston to Baeeilly. 207

missions, and received me most cordially, promising
to aid us in every way that he could. I was on this
occasion also a guest at the government house, and
the morning after my arrival went out to see the re-
captured city — so much changed for the better — and
the Residency, now so famous for the siege which it
had endured during the fifteen months that had
intervened.

On returning in the afternoon, Sir Kobert took me
into the inclosure behind his house to show me the
result of the disarmament which he had completed.
The forts of those talookdars of Oude had to be
dismantled; the cannon were surrendered to him,
and he proceeded to disarm the population of the
tarbulent city, all pai-ties being given to understand
that the day of brute force was over, and that of law
and peace had begun.

What to do with the vast store of " weapons of
war," of all sorts and shapes, was the question now to
be decided.

After consideration, he concluded to do a very
wise and safe thing with them, namely, to transform
them into agricultural implements.

So, when he brought me into the inclosure to see
what he was doing, there were the weapons in great
heaps all over the place, and among them were
several moveable forges, with the blacksmiths hard
at work, effecting this wonderful transformation. It
would not be easy to match, anywhere, such a curious

208 From Boston to Bareilly.

variety of offensive weapons as were here displayed
in profusion before us.

Their terrible work of cruelty was ended, however,
and it looked like the morning of the millennium to
see them rapidly changing their shape and purpose,
as the smiths fulfilled the wondrous prophecy, and
that, too, in such a place as Lucknow. Perhaps in the
history of our race there has never been a more literal
and extensive fulfillment of Jehovah's prediction :
"He shall judge among many people, and rebuke
strong nations afar off; and they shall beat their
swords into plowshares, and their spears into pruning
hooks : nation shall not lift up a sword against nation,
neither shall they learn war any more. But they shall
sit every man mider his vine and under his fig tree ;
and none sliall make them afraid : for the mouth of
the Lord of hosts hath spoken it." Micah iv, 3, 4.

The good chief commissioner said to me, " Would
you not wish to secure some souvenir of the Sepoy
rebellion before they are all used up ? " I replied
that I would, indeed, be glad to do so. He told me
to help myself ; which I did, taking out two Sepoy
swords, a Kookrie (a Ghoorka weapon, used for rip-
ping up or disemboweling) and a Talwar (for behead-
ing)— the latter especially repulsive, being so hooked
and loaded at the extremity, that, in the expert hands
of those trained to its use, the person to suffer had
only to be bent forward a little, and a blow over the
pivotal joint of the neck, with the rapid pull that

From Boston to Bareilly. 209

followed, would sweep the liead from the shoulders,
and lay it at the feet of the wretched victim !

The blood-stains on all of them bore testimony to
their having been used for their respective purposes.
1 have them still, and never look at them but I think
of God's reference to such, when he says, " Instru-
ments of cruelty are in their habitations ; " and also to
thank him that his holy and powerful providence has
wrenched them out of the murderous hands that
wielded them, so often unjustly and in vengeance;
and has, instead, introduced tlie restraints of law, and
the more humane penalties which proved crime re-
ceives at the hands of the Christian civilization that
now holds sway in Oude and in all India.

We went out to the Alumbagh, five miles from
the city, to visit the grave of General Havelock.
This resting-place of " the gallant chief of gallant
men " seemed holy ground to us as we again stood
around it.

He knows now, no doubt, what an aggregate of
good has resulted to India herself, and to Christian-
ity, from the weary marches, the endurance, and
victories of himself and the heroes w^liom he led to
tlie relief of Lucknow.

I tried, in The Land of the Veda, to tell the won-
derful story of tliat siege and relief, and so need
make only this passing reference to it here. England
has commemorated these events in a great historical

picture. The picture and the ruin still remain, while
14

210 From Boston to Bareilly.

almost every one of the actors in that scene have
passed away. Such are the changes of twenty-seven
years !

History tells of heroes in many lands, but the
union of the hero and the saint, in the same indi-
vidual, is not often realized. Here, however, sleeps
one such, whose memory all Christendom loves to
honor ; and who to-day comprehends, by glorious
experience, the higher significance of being in the
spiritual w^arfare, and forever " more than conqueror
through Him that loved " him.

From this we went to the ruins of the Residency.
I had seen them as they were a short time after
their relief, in all their torn and terrible desolation,
when we had to walk cautiously around them, where
mines and counter- mines had been rim, and tlie
lieavy footfall so often sounded hollow to the tread.
But, now, all is delightfully changed. The whole
place has been turned into a beautiful little park,
where ample means and good taste have done their
best to embellish this ever-memorable locality.

After due consideration, the government concluded
that they would not demolish the battered walls; they
would let them continue just as they were, that they
might remain a memorial to the coming ages of the
valor of the Christian few against the heathen many.
So the fissures were closed up, and the walls covered
on the top with cement, that will keep them perma-
nently from disintegration by the weather. There

From Boston to Bareilly. 211

they stand, tliose ivy-clad ruins, preserved as a ceno-
taph, to commemorate a Christian endurance and valor
which have, perhaps, no parallel in tlie annals of his-
tory. 'None enter these hallowed walls without
solemnity ; even royalty itself — as in the case of the
visit of the Prince of Wales — stands, with uncovered
head and tear-dimmed eyes, in the presence of that
memorial of " The Besieged of Lucknow."

How appropriately and grandly was this heartfelt
homage illustrated in the visit here of the great vice-
roy. Lord Lawrence, whose brother Henry it was
that conducted the memorable defense, until he was
killed by the bursting shell which went through the
window on the right hand side into the room w^liere
he stood.

After his heroic defense of the Punjab, and the
taking of Delhi, Sir John Lawrence returned for rest
to England. Her majesty soon raised him to the
peerage, and then sent him back as her viceroy of all
India, in order to give solidity to the new and better
state of things which the valor of himself and his
associates had won.

One of the measures which he adopted was the
holding of several grand dtirbars (state receptions)
with the princes and chiefs of India, in order to
promote a good understanding with them in regard
to those measures (education included) of peace
and improvement by which the Indian empire
might rise into a higher and better life than it

212 Fkom Boston to Bareilly.

had hitherto known. The nobles responded to the
government, and some of the most magnificent as-
semblies that the East has ever witnessed occurred
at that time.

The durbar at Lucknow ranked among the highest.
This city had never beheld such a splendid pageant
as that which then took place. The wonderful scene
is fully depicted in the second volume of the vice-
roy's life, by Dr. S. Smith, published three years
since. Before leaving England, Lord Lawrence had
to visit Oxford, to be invested with the dignity of
an LL.D. by that venerable University.

It happened that the theme of the Prize Poem
tliat year, by H. Aglen, was '' Lucknow." Of course
the special reference was to the heroic services and
death of Henry, the elder brother of Lord Law-
rence, whose humble grave lies within the Residency
walls.

The viceroy had not been in Lucknow since his
brother's death ; he had not yet looked on those bat-
tered walls, nor the scene of that famous defense.

Lord Lawrence's reception at the University was
of the most enthusitistic kind. As he entered, tlie
vast audience rose to receive him, and the applause
was again and again renewed. He took his seat on
the dais, and before his investiture, the poet of the
occasion stood forth to read his production.

When he came to the lines referring to Henry
Lawrence's death, there were few dry eyes in the

From Boston to Baretlly. 213

assembly, and the viceroy's heart was deeply moved
as the words rolled over the audience :

" Whose lion-courage and whose wisdom tried,

To failing hearts his own stout hope supplied.

0, greedy death ! 0, cruel bursting shell !

There fell their tower of strength when Lawrence fell ! "

The viceroy was ere long to feel it all, in even a
higher degree, when he should stand on the spot
itself, and by Henry's grave, to realize what price, in
blood and suffering, had to be paid in order that, in
this sense also, *' old things " should " pass away, and
all things become new" for long-benighted Hindustan.

After his arrival in India the arrangements were
made for assembling these durbars. The one for
Lucknow was held in 1867.

As the governor-general's cavalcade approached
the city, it was met by the assembled talookdars in
all the splendor that tlieir wealth could provide.

The chief external feature of the occasion was a
magnificent procession of first-class elephants, seven
hundred in number, splendidly caparisoned, on which
the talookdars were mounted. They were in line on
both sides of the road, and were waiting for the vice-
roy's approach.

But his heart had, as it were, gone ahead to the
inclosure, where that noble band, under command of
his gallant brother, had maintained, against such fear-
ful odds, that ever memorable defense in 1857. He
decided, therefore, not to pause, or perform any act

214 Fkom Boston to Bareilly.

of state or courtesy until after he had first visited
that sacred spot. The mahout was directed to guide
his elephant straight on to the Residency, between that
waiting line of nobles, without stopping. After he
passed they wheeled in behind him, and the entire
cavalcade followed where many of them would have
least desired to go.

As soon as the inclosure was reached the proces-
sion halted, and Lord Lawrence descended from his
elephant. His brilliant staff remained where they
were, and he advanced alone, till he stood right in
front of the Residency, and before that window
through which that

" Cruel bursting shell "

had passed. Away on his left hand was the grave
which contained the remains of Henry.

There he stood alone, in simple black dress, with-
out an order or ornament on his person, his hands
crossed in front of him, lost in thought and sympa-
thy, while around him were those hundreds of ta-
lookdars in all " their bravery of purple and gold,"
and mounted so splendidly, with tens of thousands
of people looking on. ^

In front of all were the roofless walls of that ter-
ribly battered Residency, presenting the dents and
chasms made by millions of rifle bullets and thou-
sands of cannon-balls. He knew that among the no-
bles and crowd around were some of the parties who

From Boston to Bareilly. 215

had done these deeds and killed that brother. Still
there he stood, separate and alone, gazing in sympa-
thy upon the ruins before them, and realizing all that
it meant, as he alone could.

Christianity has had glorious triumphs to reflect
upon. Few of them have been equal, in calm maj-
esty and significance, to the wonderful scene where
that Christian viceroy stood, in quiet dignity and im-
perial power, with that immense semicircle of heathen
and Moslem spectators gazing upon him with aston-
ishment, and realizing, as they could not before, how
impotent was " heathen rage," and how invincible
was Christian civilization !

The Majesty on high, who looked down upon that
scene, saw there an illustration of his " decree" in the
second Psalm, as true and delightful as any he has
yet witnessed in the eastern hemisphere. Lord Law-
rence, a devout believer in the Son of God, a re-
specter of his holy Sabbath, and maintaining, as he
did, a family altar to the Divine glory in his viceregal
palace, was worthy of the honor which God declares
he will put upon those who honor him. Could the
scene have been photographed, one of the grandest
pictures in history might have originated here.

The viceroy then remounted his elephant and took
his position as arranged. The whole of that proces-
sion went in review before him, each noble rising in
his howdah, as his elephant passed the viceroy, and
humbly saluting him as her majesty's representative.

216 FiioM Boston to Baeeilly.

When the sights and sahites of that gorgeous pageant
of submission and loyalty were over, the veteran vice-
roy again dismounted and walked to the sacred spot
where was the grave of his lion-hearted brother, and
there, alone again, he stood for some time wrapped
in thoughts which were, no doubt, worthy of the
occasion, and must have included the reflection, l^w
his own final and bloodless triumph that day had
consummated the victory which Henry had died to
win.

Although it is no part of my narrative, I cannot
refrain here from quoting the words of this great
governor-general seven years after, on liis return to
England, in regard to the character and value of
Christian missions in India. 'No man that England
ever sent to rule tlie East had a better opportunity
to form and express an opinion npon this subject,*
and his words may well put to shame the contempti-
ble remarks sometimes made by prejudiced and su-
perficial travelers and others, who, on their return
home, presuming on the credulity of the public,
have volunteered to enlighten them about Christian
missions.

The argument with such people is short. The tes-
timony of men like Lord Lawrence (for many others
have spoken) flatly contradicts these irresponsible
scribblers. If he, who knew so well wliat he said,
has spoken the truth, and nothing but the truth (and
he would have affirmed it under oath at the bar of

From Boston to Bakeillt. 21^

public opinion if necessary), then these people are
justly chargeable with either prejudice or ignorance,
if not with both.

On reaching England, in 18T4, Lord Lawrence was
waited upon by a deputation of the committee of tlie
Wesleyan Methodist Missionary Society, requesting
him to favor them with his views on missions in
India, at the anniversary, in Exeter Hall, London.
He willingly consented, and the following are the
words he uttered on that occasion :

"I believe, notwithstanding all that the English
people have done to benefit India, that the mission-
aries have done more than all other agencies com-
bined. They have had arduous and up-hill work,
often receiving no encouragement, and sometimes a
great deal of discouragement from their own coun-
trymen, and have had to bear the taunts and obloquy
of those who despised and disliked their preaching ;
but such has been the eifect of their earnest zeal, un-
tiring devotion, and of the excellent example which
they have, I may say, universally, shown to the people,
I have no doubt whatever that, in spite of the great
majority of the people being intensely opposed to
their doctrine, they are, as a body, remarkably pop-
ular in the country. It seems to me that, year by
year, and cycle by cycle, tlie influence of tlie mis-
sionaries must increase, and that, in God's good will,
the time may be expected to come when large masses
of the people, having lost all faith in their own relig-

218 Fkom Boston to Baeeilly.

ion, and feeling the want of one which is true and
pure and holy, will be converted and profess the
Christian faith, and having professed it, live in ac-
cordance with its precepts.

"I have a great reverence and regard for them
(the missionaries), both personally and for the sake of
the great cause in which they are engaged ; and I
feel it to be a pleasure and a privilege to do any
thing I can, in the last years of my life, to further
the great work for which they have done so much." ^

Our mission in Lucknow, dating from September,
1858, on securing property in tlie Hossainabad dis-
trict of the city, inclosed a little portion as a mission
cemetery.

One of our first visits, on our return, was to this
spot, so sacred to us, for the earliest grave dug there
was for ourselves. A lovely babe had, for four
months, diffused a beautiful light in our home, and
was gaining a great hold upon our poor hearts. I left
in the middle of March, 1859, to go round my district
and be absent about two weeks. In those days no
telegraph connected the various points of our great
field, and post-office arrangements were slow and im-
perfect. So I would sometimes be many days without
hearing from my famil}'. It thus happened on this
occasion. When my work was done I left the western
end of the mission and started for home, three days'
journey to the east, anticipating the joy of meeting

* Life, by Smith, vol. ii, p. 528.

From Boston to Baeeilly. 219

ny dear ones again, and especially the little darling,
whose arms were always stretched out with such joy
to greet papa.

It Avas evening when I arrived, and after saluting
my wife, who seemed unusually reserved in her man-
ner, I turned, as was my habit, to enter the bedroom
and look into the cradle.

The fact could no longer be concealed. My wife,
not able further to control herself, sprung to her feet
and grasped my arm to stop me. The cradle was
empty! The beautiful babe had been in the little
cemetery for more than two days ! The mother had
to go through that bitter pang alone, and have the
grave dug, and lay our darling down there in my
absence ! Death in India is often very prompt, and
the grave has to be quickly prepared.

How often since have our hearts turned to that
little cemetery. This was to be our last chance of
entering it. We found all in order. Some kind
hand had placed a flower there. In companionship
wath our babe sleeps one of the little orphans. The
two side by side. The one born in a heathen home,
the other a child dedicated from its birth to the Holy
Trinity; but the precious blood of the divine Ee-
deemer is as available for the one as for the other,
and both will lise together in the resurrection at the
last day. The next grave is that of Rev. Joseph R.
Downey, who died September 16th, in the same year
(thirty days after his arrival in India), the first death

220 From Boston to Baeeilly.

among our missionaries. Then there are tlie graves
of three more little ones, children of our missionaries,
and of Sister Pierce, and Brother Fieldbrave (one of
our native ministers), who was a great help to me
when commencing the mission at Bareilly, and of
whom I shall have more to say after we reach that
station.

From Boston to Bareilly. 221

CHAPTER YL

" Around his sign,
His call'd, his chosen, faithful friends, combine ;
In might invincible they nobly wield
The sword of temper and the sevenfold shield ;
Fixed in the firm resolve to sleep no more
While heirs dread hosts their banded legions pour ;
While blood-stained idols haunt the withering earth,
While superstition rears her demon birth,
While Antichrist his hydra form extends.
Or man, debased, to groveling folly bends ;
While unsubdued Messiah's latest foe.
Or earth its curse by sin and suffering know."

— MessiaJi's Kingdom.

Instead of going on direct to Bareillj from this
place, we will here make a detour, and visit the
imperial city of Delhi. From that point we shall
best come, in the order of time, in contact with
events that have their outcome at Bareilly, and which,
in their results, have affected the progress of our
missions, and tended so largely to give them that
development which calls to-day for so much gratitude
to God.

When we entered India, this city of the Great
Moguls (as the Dellii emperors were so long called)
retained much of its splendor. Its Chandnee Chowk
(Street of Silver) was one of the richest bazaars in the
East, and here the Mohammedan princes and aris-

222 From Boston to Bakeilly.

tocracy displayed their magnificence and spent their
wealth.

Ten weeks after the city was captured by the En-
glish forces — in the Christmas week of 1857 — I en-
tered the gates, which were opened to us at midnight
by an English sentinel. The entire native population
(pending the trials then taking place) were required
to leave the city every evening at sunset, to return at
daylight for their business. So that, with the excep-
tion of the great fortified palace in the center, where
the army and the prisoners were lodged, there was
no one in the entire city at night.

On reaching the Travelers' Rest House, impelled
by curiosity and the extraordinary position in which
1 found myself, I left my luggage, and, taking my
lantern, walked out into the once magnificent chowk.
How awful a captured city is in these circumstances !
Ruin was on every hand ; all doors and windows were
open, and yet not a sign of life, save the wretched
dogs and cats which prowled amid these ruins. Ev-
ery thing was dark around me. ^o ray of lighc, save
what I carried in my hand.

When I came to the Kotwalee (the police station)
in the square, the scene of those terrible massacres of
the English ladies, and their children and husbands,
done on the 12th and 13th of the previous May — the
fearful story of which resounded over the civilized
world — I stopped, horrified to realize that I was
standing on the scene of their suffering, on the very

From Boston to Bareilly. 223

ground that drank their blood ! I was not aware —
for tlie darkness liid it from mj view — that, right
over inj head, was the immense gallows on which
those crimes were being expiated, day after day, as
the guilt was brought home to its perpetrators. I
stood there and remembered, as we noticed at the
time, that the Scripture Lesson in the Calendar for
the day when the city was taken was Xalmm iii, be-
ginning, " Woe to the bloody city," and realized how
truly the vengeance recounted in the nineteen verses
following had been fulfilled on guilty Delhi. I felt
my flesh creep as I recalled the almost matchless
guilt here transacted, and the cruelty and suffering
over the land that had followed this dreadful exam-
ple. The man who was responsible for it all (just
captured by Hodson and his cavalry) was at that hour,
a prisoner within the dark walls before me, waiting,
along with those who had joined him, the sure and
certain doom of wretches who had descended so low
as to become the murderers of defenseless M^omen
and ehildren.

I retraced my steps, and lay down to seek sleep in
the center of that city of silence, darkness, and guilt!
What a close to eight hundred years of Moslem sov-
ereignty was this ! What would Shah Jehan, the
magnificent builder of the Taj Mahal and the De-
wanee-Khass, have thought if, even in his wildest
dreams, he had imagined that, in such a catastrophe
of guilt and blood, his imperial house would sink out

22i From Boston to Bakeilly.

of siglit forever amid the general execration of man-
kind ? Yet so it was, and I was liere to witness it.
Early next morning I rose from mj uneasy and un-
refreshing sleep to seek a friend who would guide me
around. Passing the Kotwalee again, the daylight
made visible what the darkness had hidden from me.
There was the great gallows, and from it now were
dangling down, stiff and dead, several of those
wretched men who had there suffered for their crimes
at day -dawn that morning ! I shuddered and has-
tened on.

Entering the palace, I found my friend, Lieut.
Eckford (one half of whose family had been mur-
dered by the Sepoys), and was taken by him on an
elephant over the battle-ground and to the gate where
the assault was given, on the 22d of September. He
tlien led me to see the prisoners. It was dreadful to
behold rajahs and nawabs and men of rank among
them. But 1 need not add any thing further, as tlie
whole subject is fully described in The Lomd of the
Veda. I have gone thus far only to reach the point
which is not there referred to, and which, when I
wrote that book, I could not understand as I can see
it now in all its wonderful results to our growing
work in the valley of the Ganges. The circumstance
referred to took place in the beautiful Dewcmee-^hass,
one day during the trials which I went then to wit-
ness. The special indictment on which the emperor
himself was convicted was the murder, within his

Feom Boston to Babeilly. 225

own palace, of the English embassador, the Hon.
Simon Fraser, with the chaplain of the embassy, Mr.
Jennings, and the two ladies.

Before referring further to the peculiar events that
I have conducted my readers here to understand, I
need to bespeak their attention to a fact or two which
shows their significance and value to our mission. As
I went through India in 1856, and visited one mis-
sion after another, I was painfully impressed by the
general absence of the woman element in the congre-
gations. It was different in those missions which had
availed themselves of the opportunity to take up
orphan girls, in connection with those fearful famines
which used to occur so frequently, before the En-
glish government made the canals and irrigation
works, which have spread fertility over the once dry
and thirsty portions of the land, and then gave the
guarantees under which railroads were built. These
great works enable the surplus of one section to be
quickly transported to others threatened with want,
and so strikes down famine when it attempts to lift
its head. When I entered India there was no such
benevolent efficiency possible. The only way was the
old heathen method of supply by bullock carts, over
a country without made roads, conveying produce at
the rate which bullocks could afford to keep up
(about twelve miles per day), so that there might be a
full provision in one place, and a famine only three

hundred miles off, which it would require a month
15

226 Fkom Boston to Bakeilly.

to reacli and relieve. All this, too, in a crowded
population, the majority of whom depended on their
daily toil for their daily bread.

Our Presbyterian brethren, who were in the field
before us, and some other missions, had availed them-
selves of the opportunity of those famines, to receive
imder their care numbers of the orphans thus left
destitute. For, in those terrible emergencies, even
Hindu humanity led the dying parents to give most
consideration to the little ones, so that, when the
government would come to the rescue, and send
round their police into the stricken villages, to save
the living and bury the dead, those whom they found
still living would generally be the children. The
missions which came forward at such times to accept
tlie care of some of these wretched little ones, for
whom the government could make no permanent
provision, and were only too glad to be relieved of fur-
ther care on their account, have been well repaid for
their philanthropy. Hundreds of healthy, educated^
and devoted men and women to-day in India are the
result. Our own Joel is one of them. I visited such
missions in 1856, at Benares and Allahabad, and saw
wdiat I could not see in other missions, which had not
tlie will or ability to do as these had done. The
female side of the congregations was tolerably well
filled up. But in the others there would be, say, from
twenty to fifty men on the men's side, and perhaps
only from two to five women on the female side of the

Fkom Boston to Bakeilly. 227

house. It was necessarily so in our own mission for
the first couple of years. As I went round my great
district, and looked at this state of things, I used to lie
awake at night and wonder how it was to be met.
Here were a number of young men who attended
Christian services ; some of them had broken caste
and united themselves with us, the others were unde-
cided, in view not only of the persecution to which
tliey were sure to be exposed, but also the isolated
life which lay before them — a life of celibacy as well
as of persecution. At that time we had but one
Christian family in the valley, and no girls or girls'
schools — no source from which these men could be
supplied with wives if they became Christian. The
heathen were well pleased with the difficulty, re-
solved they never should have wives from them.
They were exultant, as they supposed that they had
the future of Christianity in their power, to use their
own figure, like a piece of crumpled paper, on which
they could close their hand tightly, and so prevent
their young men from breaking caste and going into
Christianity. It was a monkish aspect truly, and no
social future or home seemed possible to them. It
distressed me exceedingly as I reflected, what could
our mission accomplish under such circumstances?
What was to become of these young men, and of
hundreds more who would enter the schools we were
to open, and whom we desired to win for Christ ?
Access to heathen homes was impracticable ; there

228 From Boston to Bareilly.

was not one zenana then open to us in the whole
valley. Girls' schools seemed impossible, even if we
had the female teachers to take charge of them. Our
first efforts in this line at Bareilly were an utter
failure, and were met with contempt and ridicule by
the people as a sort of outrage against their religion
and their law and ancient civilization. Dr. Duff — a
prince among missionaries — had gone through the
same experience in Calcutta, and had resigned the
effort in despair, and wrote these words (which sound
so singularly in this better day) in the first edition of
his book on India, published in 1830. He there
says, "You might as well try to scale a wall five
hundred yards high as to attempt female education
in India."

'No wonder the heathen exulted in the admission ;
and, this being so, had made themselves quite easy as
to the spread of Christianity in their country. Of
course. Dr. Duff lived to see the mighty change,
wrought by God himself, against all this heathen
prejudice and resolution. But I am writing of what
we had to face in the early days of our miss^n.

I have shown, in the ninth chapter of the work
already referred to, the terrible legal obstacles to
the elevation or education of women in India which
Menu interposed in his " Institutes of Hindu Law,"
a system of legislation next to the Mosaic in venera-
ble antiquity. This law was so sustained by custom
and literature, that for long ages it had been held to

From Boston to Bareilly. 229

be woman's religious duty to be content witb the lot
which the classics of her country pronounced when
they said, that *' Ignorance is woman's truest orna-
ment," and that any desire for a change was a
thought which was forbidden to her as a virtuous
woman. All this fearful wrong was intensified by
the Mohammedan invasion, eight hundred years ago,
when that creed of cruelty and lust came bursting
into India as a conquering power. Their theory and
vile practices (as the Hindus themselves afiirm) tended
to make the women of the nation more secluded and
degraded than they were before, so their yoke be-
came thereby heavier and their chains stronger.
Here we were, anxious to deliver them, but they
were unapproachable in eitlier school or zenana, and
our inability was the more keenly felt in the fact that
we had no female agency of any kind by which the
attempt could be made. To save India, while its one
hundred and thirty millions of women were so jeal-
ously shut up from our teaching, seemed to postpone
the salvation of the land indefinitely. Even the
agency to make the attempt could not be originated
by any effort of ours ; if we ever obtained it, it must
come as a gift from Him " who can raise the dead,
and call the things that are not as though they
were."

Underlying all this was a fearful consideration tliat
at first I could not understand. One day, in Bareilly,
we were arguing with an elderly native on the im-

230 From Boston to Bareilly.

portance of his consenting to grant Lis daughters the
advantages of education. After we had exhausted
the usual arguments, and answered the objections
made by them to such a proposal, he began to fail in
the usual courtesy, and, in a temper, put this ques-
tion, with much energy, 'VNow, sahib, let me ask,
what interest have you in wishing to make my
daughters nautch girls?" and forthwith concluded the
interview. Even then I did not quite understand
him. These " nautch girls " I had seen, a few weeks
before, at the court of the Nawab of Rampore, on the
occasion of his investiture with a dignity ordered by
the queen of England for his kindness toward us, who
were called " The Nynee Tal Eef ugees," and to whom
he had extended such sympathy and assistance as he
dare show while we were shut up and besieged by the
Sepoy forces of Khan Bahadur, the rebel governor of
Rohilcund, under this emperor of Delhi. This help,
which had to be quietly conveyed to us, was in
money, food, and valuable information as to the time
and mode of the attacks to be made by Khan Baha-
dur's troops upon our position on the south-east. He,
also, under the pretense of neutrality, refused to
allow our south-western road, which ran through his
territory, to be approached by either friend or foe.
It was for him a great risk thus to aid us. He had
to avoid exposing himself to be denounced, and at-
tacked by the forces of the emperor ; but, faithfully
sustained by his chief officers, he managed to avoid

From Boston to Bareilly. 231

coniproniising himself too far, and yet quietly af-
forded us this valuable service. We often trembled
for his safety, surrounded as he was by thousands of
fanatical Mohammedans in his own capital, who had
their suspicions that he was in sympathy with tlie
Christians in the mountains above, instead of attack-
ing and cutting us off, as the emperor expected him
to do. We heard that they even talked of his assas-
sination, "making him a head shorter," as the phrase
was, at some of their festivals. It is pleasant to
think that he was animated in this course, not by
mere policy — in view of the probability that the En-
glish would come out victorious and restore their
authority — but by a grateful sense of obligation for
the justice he and his house had ever received at the
hands of the English government, and a desire to re-
main their friend forever. I heard him very earnest-
ly avow these convictions publicly on the day of the
investiture.

When the conflict was over, he was suitably hon-
ored and rewarded for the service. Twenty-three of
us " refugees " (all then within reach) were invited to
spend the day and dine with him, at his palace at
Rampore on the occasion, in January, 1860. We
went, and it was to us a real pleasure to see this
humane and good man thus honored. Here, for the
first time, I saw these " nautch girls," their tableaux
and performances being a part of the entertainment
which his highness had provided, with which to pass

232 Fbom Boston to Bareilly.

tlie hours of the day that we were to spend with him.
Even then their full character had not been appre-
hended by me beyond the fact that they were public
women, who sang and danced and caricatured for a
living.

A few weeks later I was in Lucknow, looking
into the condition of our boys' school there, when an
attempt was made by two of these nautch girls to se-
cure admission to that school, in order to learn tlie
English language. Our head teacher at once in-
formed me who they were, and what their object,
and the terrible meaning of the phrase " nautch girl "
was disclosed. They were immediately refused ad-
mission.

Alas ! they were members of a profession " whose
doors are the gates of hell," and their object, in add-
ing English to their other accomplishments, was to
facilitate their seductions to those of our own race in
Lucknow who spoke that language ! They were ac-
complished for their calling, and thus monopolized
education, so that the pure ladies of the land loathed
both, supposing them to be inseparable. The indig-
nant question of the old native was explained. Pros-
titution and education were, in his view, combined ;
and, no doubt, the same opinion was held by many of
the mothers, who shrank, for this reason, from our
offer of instruction for tlieir daughters. Surely here
was one of the devil's own masterpieces, when he had
60 confused and manipulated matters in the iiiiiids of

From Boston to Bakeilly. 233

the natives around iis, as to bring tliem to the convic-
tion that the self -protect ion which intelligence would
confer on their women would positively work the
other w^ay, and thus led the ladies to instinctively
shrink from education as a degradation which would
sink them to a level with fallen women, so that puri-
ty and virtue forbade them to be intelligent.

Here was one side of that "wall five hundred
yards high," of which Dr. Duff had written. It was
disheartening to look up at it, and think of the more
than one hundred millions of the modest women of
India on the other side, inclosed within such a false
and wicked prejudice, living and dying there in ig-
norance and darkness. To reach them was simply
impossible to any or to all the male missionaries
of Christendom. In no way under the heavens
could they be reached and enlightened except by
breaking down the priestly tyranny and public opin-
ion which sustained such vile and wicked sentiments,
and by presenting to these timid and credulous creat-
ures the bright examples of women who had become
educated without the slightest compromise of their
purity and character ; and this, not merely by the ex-
ample of the women of other lands, scattered here
and there in their country, but by their own women,
the daughters of India, not only enlightened without
the loss of modesty, but even exalted in all that was
lovely, and virtuous, and of good report, by sancti-
fied intelligence. But where were these examples to

234 Feom Boston to Bakeilly.

come from for onr work in the Gangetic valley ?
God alone knew. And he did know, and was even
then

Treasuring " up his bright designs"
To work "his sovereign will"

on behalf of these long imprisoned souls, for whose
deliverance w^e were so solicitous and praj^erful. I
could not even imagine how it was to be done, but
having put the whole matter into his hands, was hum-
bly and patiently consenting to be " led by a way "
that I knew not. How plain it all seems now as we
walk in the light into which he led us, out of the
darkness of twenty-five years ago. A golden chain
of many links had to be formed by the hand of God
to lift up these poor ignorant creatures out of their
misapprehension and prejudice. JS'ot one zenana was
then open to us, even if we had the suitable agents to
enter them, which we had not; now there are a thou-
sand zenanas open, thank God ! and we have, in in-
creasing numbers, the suitable and successful agents
to enter them.

1. One of the greatest changes the Orient ever saw
was here originated. IIow was it done? Let us
enter Delhi and see the first link in process of devel-
opment, so that it should be fully formed in time to
have the other requisite links united to it after God
had prepared the way during the ensuing twelve
years. When we reach Bareilly we shall find and
take up those other links of this blessed chain, all

From Boston to Bareilly. 235

united with tliis one here, and complete for their
object, and then see the wonderful purpose of the
Almighty fully manifest on behalf of our mission,
and the special work for which he had led us to
India.

In the book so often referred to I give the full
account of my visit to the fallen emperor just before
his trial. Tbese trials were held in the magnificent
Dewanee-Khass, the throne-room of the Moguls, the
very center of the conspiracy which had instigated
and extended such bloodshed and woe over India
eight months before. Here, in this most gorgeous
audience hall in the East, it was arranged that those
state trials should be held before a commission of
English officers of high rank. They sat on one
side of the emperor's musnud, or throne, made of a
block of crystal, and which had done duty in place
of that wonderful Takt Taous, or " Peacock Tlirone,"
on which the Emperor Shah Jehan had expended,
according to history, the enormous sum of thirty
millions sterhng ($150,000,000). The fame of this
matchless seat had attracted thither, in March, 1Y39,
that ferocious conqueror, Nadir Shah, the Persian
king, who overthrew the army of the Mogul em-
peror, plundered his treasury, and appropriated that
Taht Taous I and, after slaying, in mere wantoness of
massacre, nearly one hundred thousand of the help-
less inhabitants of Delhi, men, women, and children,
marclied off with the plundered trophies to Persia.

236 FsoM Boston to Baeeilly.

It was in this same gorgeous apartment where this
Persian monster sat, and chaflSngly taunted his im-
perial captive, who trembled in his presence, and was
glad to be rid of him even at this fearful price of
blood and treasure, that the last of this grand and
guilty line of Mogul emperors and his associates
were, in this December of 1857, placed on trial for
their lives, and it was my lot, unexpected, but provi-
dential, to be here to witness this hnal catastrophe.
My opportunity was all the more remarkable from
the fact that it could not be shared by others, the
only road then open to Delhi being the Punjab road,
down which I came from Dehra Doon. Forced by
stern necessity, having no money to buy food or
clothing for my family, 1 had ventured around the
spurs of the Himalayas from Nynee Tal, on hearing
that Delhi was captured and a bank once more opened
at Mussoorie, where I could sell a bill on London
w^hich I had, and thus supply our wants. As I then
passed round through Gurhwal, the great valley full in
view ^ve or six thousand feet below was still overrun
by the Sepoys, and the country between Delhi and
Allahabad was nearly all in the hands of the forty
thousand of them who had fled from Delhi when the
little English force had captured it in September. We
reached Mussoorie in safety, and descended into the
valley of the Doon, anxious to reach the road to Delhi.
Here I received one morning a note from General Eck-
ford, of the English army, who had heard of our

Fkom Boston to Bakeilly. 237

coming, wishing me to stop and give them one or
two sermons. We followed his messenger, and when
near his residence he came out to receive us. He
looked exceedingly happy, and stepped forward, and
before a personal salutation of any kind could be
uttered, the glad thought which was filling his soul so
full that morning found expression. Taking my
hand in his and looking me in the face, the old
Christian soldier exclaimed, " Thirty-four years ago
this day, sir, God, for Christ's sake, converted my
' soul and pardoned all my sins ! How do you do ? "
The reader will easily understand how quickly we
were at home with this devoted Episcopalian. We
remained three days, and held several services with
his circle of good people. On our departure the
general furnished me with letters of introduction to
his son and son-in-law, then in Delhi, which opened
our way and proved of very great value to us, as the
sequel will show.

Through this narrow path, from Mussoorie by the
Doon to Delhi, we liad found our way into this
center, to the surprise of our military friends, who
were holding the city and conducting these trials,
and waiting for the troops from England, by whose
assistance they were to go forth to clear the country
of the mutineers a few months later. The only way
then for letters, or for communication with the su-
preme government at Calcutta, was to send up by the
Punjab, thence down by the Indus to Bombay, and

238 Fbom Boston to Bareilly.

on round all India, requiring many weeks to send or
receive letters. It thus came to pass that I was in
the imperial city at such a time to sec the Moguls,
so-called, bidding

" A long farewell to all " their " greatness."

My military friends had secured me a permit to go
anywhere, and to see any thing that was to be seen,
in the captured city.

Wliat most of all interested me in Delhi were the
trials then proceeding in the Dewanee-Khass. Men
tliat sat on thrones twelve months before, and their
imperial master, were here awaiting their trial and
doom for the rapine and murder committed by them,
or in their name, upon Christian men, women, and
children. It was one of the most vivid pictures of
the judgment-day of the great God that has ever
been seen, to behold these criminals of the highest
class and order of society brought to account as
though they were common men. Of course, the
emperor's case transcended every thing else. But of
this I have given elsewhere, as intimated, a full
account. Let us come now to the great fact that has
led us here. On the day in question I was in the
Dewanee-Khass witnessing this " great assize," and
became very tired standing so long on the polished
marble floor. There was not an unoccupied seat in
the apartment. Indeed, no seat belonged to the
room, save the throne, as no one ever sat down

From. Boston to Bareilly. 239

there except the emperor himself. The seats and
table for the use of the commission conductins: the
trials had been provided, but were all occupied. No
provision was made for spectators, nor were tliere any
there to be accommodated. I was the only outsider in
the apartment. Wearied out at length wuth this long
standing, I had to settle the question whether I
would give up the great opportunity of seeing such
a siglit, or retire to w^here I could sit down and rest.
Anxious to remain, I tried to endure the difficulty a
little longer. But the endurance soon came to an
end, for the "necessity that knows no law" had
come upon me ; something must be done, or I should
sink down from sheer exhaustion. I gave a question-
ing glance at the crystal seat, no more to be occupied
by its imperial master, and wondered if I might dare
step forward and occupy it ! But the presumption
of thinking whether I might sit on the throne of the
great Mogul, and in such a presence, too ! Well, on
reflection, it did not seem such a dreadful impropriety
after all. I knew that the throne and its former
occupant were, just then, at a great discount there ;
that he was a criminal, and would have no right to
protest at the sacrilege of an American Republican
(or any one else), who chose to take the venture,
occupying his seat for the time being, nor did I sup-
pose, all things considered, that the gentlemen of the
court would order me to vacate it ; so, gathering all
my resolution to take the responsibility anyhow, up

2i0 Fkom Boston to Bareilly.

I walked and sat down upon it! The thing was
done. There were a few glances and a quiet smile
here and there among the gentlemen of the commis-
sion, and a sad and wondering glance from the
Nawab of BuUubghur, the prince then on trial,
right in front, but nothing more. So I rested down
into the quiet conviction that my temerity had cost
me nothing, and that the seat was a very good one,
and a great relief from the keen distress of standing
there so long. It may be that I am the only Meth-
odist preacher who has sat upon a real throne. We
sing at home, and I indorse the sentiment as heartily
as ever, after having tried the great experiment for
some hours, that

" I'd rather be the least of those

Who are the Lord's alone,
Than wear a royal diadem

And sit upon a throne."

The "diadem" I did not wear, though I saw those
of the Delhi princes in the durbar at Benares, twelve
months before ; but the throne 1 did sit upon.

2. Yet, as I sat there, I was soon as far as a man need
be from any personal vanity or self-assertion. A won-
derful condition of thought and feeling came stealing
over me, solemn and religious. Losing sight, for the
time, of the trial and the prisoners, something within
(perhaps it was my own mind lifted up and enlight-
ened beyond any former experience) began to question
and suggest, until I was most wondrously impressed

From Boston to Bareilly. 241

with the lesson and significance of the sitiiation, and
became most anxious to understand its bearing and
purpose. I asked myself, " Is not this the hand of
God in human history ? What means this overthrow
of one of earth's greatest dynasties ? And what shall
be the end of these things ? What purpose is the
Almiglity working out by this amazing ^overturn,'
and the facts associated therewith ? "

To me individually these questions had a peculiar
and personal significance. I had been doomed to be
hung, with my wife and children, eight months before,
because we were Christian missionaries, by a lieuten-
ant of this very emperor. Khan Bahadur, the rebel
nawab of Eohilcund. He did hang — on a gallows at
the Kotwalee at Bareilly — and then gave their bodies
up to insult and degradation, fifteen of njy Christian
neighbors, civil and military officers of the English
government, including Judge Eobertson, who had en-
tertained us until we obtained and furnished a house,
which house Khan Bahadur's Sepoys burned, with all
tliat it contained, including my library, on the same
day. They also beheaded Maria, the first female
member that joined our Church in India. How,
almost by a miracle, we escaped the hands of this
"bloody man," is narrated in full in The Land of
the Veda. And now, here I was, alive and well, in
the very palace of the fanatical emperor who had
ordered our death, as well as that of all our class ;

yes, liere I was, quietly sitting on liis throne, while
16

242 From Boston to Bareilly.

he was a prisoner and a criminal, to be tried for his
life, and I permitted to be present ! Had I been in
that court eight months ago, or any day for nearly
six months after, how different would our relative
circumstances have been ! I should not have been
sitting; he would have sat, and I should have had
to stand and take my doom as it fell from his lips.
What our sentence would have been was too terribly
illustrated in many sad cases to allow me to doubt
as to its terrible character. In this presence how
fully I realized it all !

But then, merely personal relations to the circum-
stances soon passed away from my consideration, and
something far more important took their place. As I
sat there my mind seemed lifted up to a view of our
mission, its requirements, and its future, beyond any
thing of which I had been previously conscious.
Successive aspects of it seemed to pass before my
view with wonderful clearness and connection, and a
strong conviction of the power and adequacy of God
to meet all its ^rising wants shed its confidence over
my soul. It seemed one of the most exalted occa-
sions of my life, and I yielded myself entirely to its
influence. In attempting to describe its most im- .
portant manifestation, I cannot communicate to my
readers, by any power of the pen, an adequate idea of i
the clearness of view and assurance of divine assist-
ance which was given me in that hour. But I w^ill
indicate as I can its leading aspects. ^ The one hun-

From Boston to Bareilly. 243

dred thousand Sepoys who had risen at this man's
instigation, to work his will, in the interest of the
cruel creed of " the False Prophet,'' against Christ
and his people, and to extinguish, if they could, our
holy religion forever from the soil of India, had been
met by feeble Christian forces at Cawnpore, Lucknow,
and Delhi, and been dashed back defeated. Yet
they were still defiant and determined, and were then
raging over the country — our own mission field being
yet entirely in their hands. But I knew that prep-
arations were being made, and additional forces were
hurrying out from England, and that soon movable
columns would be on their track, hunting them down,
in the interest of the public peace and safety. The
results could not be doubtful. They would be over-
thrown, until two of them would not be left together
to do further harm. Those who survived would not
dare venture to return to their homes — and those
liomes w^ere largely in our own mission-field — because
the regimental rolls would sufiSce for their identifica-
tion and punishment. What was to become of their
children, thus left orphans and desolate?

Again, this sorrow would be intensified by the
famine that was sure to follow the rebellion. The
land would be thrown out of cultivation by the war
and the plunder of the Sepoys in order to live — for
men would not sow where they saw no prospect of
reaping during the coming year — and thus, upon tens
of thousands of the poor, who had taken no part

2^4 From Boston to Bakeilly.

in this great military mutiny, the coming famine
would fall with fearful weight. Our mission-field,
then without roads or railways to arrest or mitigate
the calamity, would feel the infliction most. So, it
was likely that, within twelve or fifteen months, thou-
sands of destitute orphans — many of them the sons
and daughters of the Sepoy race — would be left in
misery and starvation within reach of our own hands.
The question then rose, whether we should get ready
and be prepared to avail ourselves of the ojyportunity
to take up a number of these children, and not only
save their lives, but also train them in the knowledge
of Him who died for them, with the expectation that
they would become, especially in this feeble com-
mencement of our mission, the very helpers— male
and female — that we so much required in our work
for the evangelization of the valley of the Ganges ?

Then there came up before my mind, to complete
the picture, the vision or foresight of the churches
and congregations and schools of the early future —
the college, the theological seminary, and the cult-
ured native agents, men and women, that would, in
the better days to come, carry this blessed cause
through that valley and over the land in Gospel
power. But its brightest feature was the oppor-
tunity which was involved for woman, and which
would hereby be developed to give Christianity a
social life — the family power — to become the cult-
ured helpmeets of our future teachers and preachers,

From Boston to Bareilly. 24:5

and resulting in tlie introduction of tlie female ele-
ment into our congregations, and tlie rolling back of
those threats and exultation of the heathen over us.
What a glorious vision it was, and in such a place !

As it bodied itself forth before my mind, and be-
came to me as real as something that could almost be
touched now, and would all become glorious fact ere
long, my thoughts turned to the question, " How can
this be done ? If God is going to give us the oppor-
tunity, how are we to stand prepared to avail our-
selves of it and turn it to account % " . Without hesita-
tion, I assumed it could be done ; that the Church at
home would stand by me if I called on them for assist-
ance, and enabled them to see the necessity and oppor-
tunity that were coming within our reach for meeting
the great emergency of our new work. I felt sure
that the women of Methodism would respond for
the portion of the scheme which especially contem-
plated the rescue and redemption of their own sex,
in the hope that, by their aid and sympathy, would
be furnished the very agency by which missionary
ladies could yet make their influence felt in the
homes of India for the salvation of their benighted
sisters. !N"or was I insensible to the difliculties in the
way of these glowing possibilities. I saw clearly
what would have to be overcome in order to realize
this aggregate of good, and yet was aware that I
knew not how the obstacles could be removed ; only
I felt persuaded that, while God's plans were not yet

246 FiiOM Boston to Bakeilly.

fully intimated, I had only to trust and wait, satisfied
that he was here suggesting, and would surely guide
the whole matter to his own blessed conclusion.

I sat there and saw the seal of infamy and doom be-
ing judicially stamped on the forehead of this Oi-iental
representative of " the Arabian Antichrist," whose
blasphemous system had dared, wherever their sword
had power, during the past twelve hundred years,
deliberately and remorselessly, and in the name of
Almighty God, to degrade woman, and nowhere with
more terrible success than in India. Tlieir Koran,
to consummate this degradation, denies the wife (no
matter how faithful or subordinate) a partnersliip in
immortality, and even provides a substitute for her
in the " Houris" of the carnal heaven, which Moham-
med taught his followers to expect. Such are wom-
an's wrongs, in time and in eternity, from this system
of sensuality. And now, with the cup of their in-
iquity full, and the patience of heaven exhausted,
and outraged humanity demanding their overthrow,
here was the imperial head of this system, with his
house and confederates, sinking out of sight never to
rise again. But I felt that the justice of God would
not be complete unless the tyranny of the system
should follow its representative. Both must sink —
and all kindred systems with them — ere woman was
avenged and her emancipation complete.

In whose name and by what agency should this
blessed change and redemption be commenced and

From Boston to Bareilly. 247

finally wrought out for her was then presented to niy
mind, and the answer was at hand. In that name
which this man execrated and denied, as " the Son of
the living God," blaspheming his divinity and butch-
ering his ministers, and Christian ladies, even under
his own palace roof : — in that name — ^that " Prince of
the kings of the earth " — even He '' that liveth, and
was dead," and is " alive for evermore ; and " who hath
"the keys of hell and of death:" — yes, how manifest
it was that that " King of kings " had come in judg-
ment upon this antichristian king, and had doomed
him and his dynasty to be " ground to powder."
The military commission was merely the instrument
of God Almighty's will, and some of them, at least,
were conscious of it. This sin and this suffering
were to be ended because woman's great Friend and
Saviour had appeared for her rescue.

British arms might abolish thrones, annihilate sov-
ereignties, overthrow great armies and combinations,
and give rest and peace to a bleeding land ; but, all
that done, there remained to be accomplished a might-
ier conquest which their swords could not achieve ; a
victory to be won which required a far different agency
for its consummation. That agency was woman — the
very creature whom the falling system had degraded
so deeply, and whom her Lord and Saviour was about
to call to the work — a work which she only could do.
Her gentle hand, her beautiful example, her Chris-
tian teaching, were to be the powerful ministry to

248 From Boston to Bakkilly.

prostrate tlie results of this vindictive system in the
dust, and lead out her wronged and benighted sister-
hood from their bondage and their sins to become the
free, the enlightened, and exalted " daughters of the
Lord Almiglitj."

What has already been accomplished in this direc-
tion, after twenty-five years, and the far-reaching re-
sults which spread out before us so hopefully, we
shall soon see at Bareilly. 1 believe I was led here
for a purpose, and divinely aided on behalf of our
mission. To me this was the place and the hour that
my divine Lord had chosen in which the idea, not
only of an orphanage for our mission, but also of a
Woman's Missionary Society for our work gener-
ally, should come with a practical power to my
mind so decided, that never from this hour of its in-
ception have I hesitated to go right on with confi-
dence, assured that every obstacle to its development
would be removed as we came to it, and that God
would consummate our hopes under the persuasion
that " the set time to favor her had come." Here,
then, the precious thought and purpose were born, and
here the first effort for both was made. Tliey had
no merely human authorship. They were originated
by the divine suggestion. In this Dewanee-Khass
the first exposition of them was written, and from
this went forth the earliest of those appeals which
were afterward so deeply to touch the hearts of cult-
ured women in America's Christian homes, leading

Fkom Boston to Bar kill y. 249

them to send ns the means, or come tlieraselves, to help
us to educate those orphan girls, and to carry the holj
Gospel into those zenana homes, at tliat time so jeal-
ously closed against us. The remaining links neces-
sary for the divine purpose would soon be united
with those already prepared, and when all were com-
plete those doors would be providentially opened,
and from that hour onward Christianity was to wit-
ness what was long ago foretold concerning the di-
vine mission to be conferred upon " the daughters of
Zion;'

The glorified Messiah was to need heralds suited
in sex to the seclusion which only they could pene-
trate, in order to convey to those desolate ones whom
Satan had so long held in darkness, the joyful mes-
sage of salvation. The Holy Spirit was to inspire
these daughters of the Church with courage, as tliey
went fortli to proclahn to those who " had no hope,"
and were " without God in the world," that their
Kedeemer had come to save them. Victory was
to be assured to them. Before these gentle but effi-
cient heralds, reigning and powerful systems of re-
sistence would be terrified and flee away ; while the
mothers in Israel, who sent them forth and sus-
tained them, were to participate in the glad results.
Nor was the prediction to be interpreted of past events
— for all its verbs are in the present tense. It belongs
to the Church of the ascended Messiah (verse 18), and
expresses the Christian victories to be won by tlie

250 Yro^i Boston to Bareilly.

female agency of that Church as thev announce the
glad tidiags of his coming kingdom, and also the joy
of those "at home," who were to share in the tri-
umphs of this " great host " of female evangelists.

The warrant and the result are given by Jehovah
of Hosts, in the sacred Hebrew, on this wise :

" The Lord giveth the word ;

The women that publish the tidings are a great host.

Kings of armies flee, they flee :

And she tha^ tarrieth at home divideth the spoil."

Psa. Ixviii, 11, 12, (Revised Version.)

As I dwelt upon the prospect and its possibilities
my mind became exclusively occupied with the sub-
ject ; the trial,. the prisoners, and the surrounding cir-
cumstances seemed to become of little importance
compared with the new and precious ideas that had
now taken possession of my heart. The impulse
grew strong to communicate to those who could aid
me what I saw and felt so clearly ; so I drew my note
book from my pocket, and there and then sketched
out the coming opportunity and my appeal. That
original letter now lies before me. It was sent to
Dr. Durbin, to be published in our Church papers.
1 will be excused in quoting the introductory sen-
tences and the substance of tliat letter :

" The King's Palace, Delhi, Dec. 20, 1857.

" Eey. J. P. DcTKBiN, D.D. :

" My Dear Doctor : How wonderful it seems to
pass from the conditions of weary fugitives, subject

From Boston to Bareilly. 251

to constant alarm and in danger of our lives, living
in a cabin on the mountains, with some anxiety as to
how we were to " keep body and soul together " till
liberty and relief should reach us — what a transition to
pass from all this to a position where we rest in a
king's palace, ride on a royal elephant, see the mul-
titude salaam before us, and native sentries * present
arms ' as we pass ; to have plenty to eat and drink,
and feel that we are once more in a place of safety,
with thousands of British bayonets ready to preserve
us from insult and harm. Such is the transition that
has befallen us. Truly, a wonderful one ! The
change is the more remarkable from the locality
where it is realized. In Delhi — only a few weeks
ago the very focus of treason and cruelty — we move
about in perfect confidence, our white faces a suffi-
cient guarantee for the most profound respect every-
where !

" I am writing this communication in no less a
place than the Dewanee-Khass^ the Eeception Hall
of the ^ Great Moguls.' Around me are the splen-
did emblems of their magnificence: the carved and
gilded ceilings ; the white marble arches and pil-
lars, beautifully inlaid in floral designs, the stems and
leaves and flowers of which are formed of carnelians,
jasper, chalcedony, and other precious stones. On
the ground where my feet are resting thousands and
millions have prostrated themselves in homage before
the successive incumbents of one of the mightiest

252 From Boston to Bareilly.

monarcliies that the world ever saw. On my right
hand sits the * Military Commission ' for the trial
of the State prisoners, and there, standing before
them, is the Bulliibgiirh Rajah on trial for his
life."

[I then asked attention to the fact that I had lately-
received by the mail, at length opened through the
Punjab and the Indus, a copy of Zion\s Herald
giving the full account of the " Farewell Missionary
Services'' in Bromiield Street, Boston, on the 31st
of the previous May, where the first two missionaries
for India, with their wives, were solemnly set apart,
and so many kind references were made to the sol-
itary superintendent, who was supposed to be then
quietly, but safely, awaiting their coming at Bareilly.
I asked them to note that that was the very day of
the massa/yi^e of Bareilly^ following the more dread-
ful one here ; days of darkness and sorrow such as
Christianity had never seen before in the Orient ;
adding :]

" How different the scenes and experience of
that Lord's day to you and to us ! But let us ac-
cept the omen ; it is one of good. It bespeaks the
innate character of both religions, and presages their
future. The deeds of Bareilly exhibit a faith which
is doomed to perish, and all the sooner from the re-
action caused by its own criminality ; while that
holy and beautiful scene in Bromfield Street
Church, on the same day, illustrates, in its own prac-

From Boston to Bareilly. 253

tical loveliness and mercy, the religion of our ador-
able Lord."

[I then proceeded to draw the attention of the
bretliren and sisters of the Church at home, for
whom the letter was intended, to the coming retribu-
tion and the famine that would surely follow, and to
the orphan children who would be left within our
own mission field, and gave examples of the great
advantages which had been realized by missions that,
in other days, had accepted and used such opportuni-
ties— advantages that would be equally ours, giving
our mission an advanced position that, without this
aid, fifty years of toil would not bring to us. Here
we would find, and find soon, the scholars, church
members, teachers, and preachers that our work re-
quired to give it a propitious commencement. The
possession of those children would yield us at once,
and under the best circumstances, the means of devel-
oping the day-school. Sabbath-school, class-meetings,
and the privileges of Sabbath services.

The expense indicated $25 each per annum for
ten years ; which, with such help as we could ob-
tain here, would be sufficient to feed, clothe, and
educate them. 1 asked each patron to select either
a male or female child, to whom they could, if
they desired, give their name, sending the money
to Dr. Durbin, and concluded the appeal with these
words :]

" Here, then, I close. I make my proposition and

254: From Boston to Bareilly.

appeal to American Methodists on behalf of the little
outcast ones of tliose misguided and cruel men, whose
doom may be sealed, probably, ere this letter can
reach your shores. I make my appeal from Delhi —
from this late head-quarters of hatred and cruelty
against Christ and liis people — probably from the
very apartment where those proclamations were con-
cocted and issued, which spread for a time such hor-
ror and woe over these fair provinces.

" Bretliren and sisters, help us to save those poor
little ones. If you take them, you will think about
them ; if you pay for them, you will certainly jpray
for them. God will own and honor your deed of
Christian mercy, and, at a future day, in many a de-
lightful instance, when they are converted and happy,
will * the blessing of those now ready to perish come
upon you.' In hope of a generous and prompt re-
sponse, I remain, dear brethren and sisters,
" Yours affectionately,

William Butler."

Next day I wrote another letter to Dr. Durbin,
earnestly pleading for his sympathy and that of the
Missionary Board. I informed him, as another evi-
dence of " the good hand of God over us for good,"
that I had just found H. S. Eeid, Esq., Director of
Public Instruction (Minister of Education for the
North-west Provinces), to whom I had a note of in-
troduction from his father-in-law (the general at

From Bo8ton to Baeeilly. 255

whose place I had preached on our way down). It
was very providential that he sliould then be in
Delhi, for, next to our Church and the Board, he
could help me most in the enterprise which was now
80 near my heart. To my great encouragement he
received me most cordially, and listened to my entire
plan. He was kind enough to give it his full sym-
pathy, and promised me the good-will and assistance
of the government, under the new rules which had
just been inaugurated in the form of Grants in Aid
for Education.

3. I inquired what these rules w^ere, and then learned
about that second link which a merciful Providence
was preparing for our help in the work contemplated.
The English government had formulated a code of
education for India, under the designation, " Sir
Charles Wood's Dispatch on Education," which now
became law ; and under it all who would educate
should have " grants in aid," about fifty per cent, of
the whole expense. It was to be alike available for
both sexes, and would not interfere with the right of
religious instruction in any school thus aided. What
help was here for us ! Our good friend promised
liis utmost assistance. I laid the facts before the
Board, and closed with these words : " The cost for
each orphan, including every thing, will be only $25
a year. $1,000 annually will, therefore, sustain forty
of them. I ask that much from the Board, and let
individual liberality add as many more as possible.

256 Fkom Boston to Bakeilly.

Shall I have this thousand dollars annually ? Be-
lieve me. we may expect that God will amply repay
to our society, in converted, intelligent teachers and
preachers, the sum which I now earnestly entreat you
to grant, that we may save these perishing children.
Do let me have your reply as speedily as possible.
No part of our work will be more interesting and
hopeful than this. I long for the time when we shall
have tliese little ones under our care and instruction,
and trust that I shall live to see many of them con-
verted and rejoicing in God."

I anxiously awaited the answer, and it came almost
by return of mail, granting all I asked, if the breth-
ren who were to join me within a few weeks, meeting
together as a mission, should concur in the proposal,
which, of course, they did. We thus stood prepared
for the future, and were ready to act when the hour
came. A few days afterward another providence
cheered me. I met our dear friend, Major (now Gen-
eral) Gowan, he who had so earnestly warned us to
fly from Bareilly. On informing him of my plans,
he surprised me by saying he had the first orphan
boy ready for me, a fine lad (son of a Sepoy oflScer)
whom, a few days before, he had found on the field
of battle, in great distress for his father, who had
been killed that day. The benevolent major tried to
comfort the poor boy, and promised to be a father to
him. He brought him to his tent, and from that on
to Meerut, where I met them. He handed him over

From Boston to Bareilly. 257

to me, promising to be at the entire cost of his train-
ing and education. I was to give him the major's
own name. He sent me another boy soon after (now
an ordained elder in our Conference), and provided
for both. He lias given so liberally of his means to
build up our mission since, that, probably, no one, on
either side of the Atlantic, has been so generous to our
work as this devoted Christian gentleman has been.
So wonderfully did God and his people aid us in this
enterprise. What it has already accomplished for our
work in India we shall learn when we reach Bareilly
and Shahjehanpore, where the orphanages are located ;
and especially the Girls' Orphanage at Bareilly, which
has done so much to build up the work of the Parent
Board, and gives to our mission in IS'orth India a
standing and power that is not equaled to-day by
any mission of its age in the East.

As I stood last year in old Delhi, and lived these
scenes over again, after an interval of twenty-seven
years since the day when I wrote that letter in the
Dewanee-Kliass, how vividly it all came back to me !
How clearly the hand of God was seen in the results
since accomplished ! Poor old Delhi itself is terribly
changed for the worse since then. The Chandnee
Chowk, once so rich and splendid, is shorn of its
glory, and now presents a beggarly aspect. The
Jumna Musjid, the great Mohammedan "Cathedral"
of the East, shares the general decay — the worshipers

were few, and the entrance was occupied by some of
17

258 From Boston to Bakeilly.

the most loathsome lepers I ever beheld. One of
them was so unutterably repulsive, I wondered the
police did not shut him up from human view. The
poor lad might be about sixteen years of age. His
body w^as covered with this awful disease ; his face
having a pink tinge, and his eyebrows and the hair
of his liead were as "white as snow." It was a sick-
ening sight ; but there he was permitted to remain, as
an object of charity, on the steps by w^liich the wor-
shipers went up to their devotions in that decaying
structure !

The Dewanee-Khass, the superb throne-room of the
Great Moguls, stands in withering splendor — a gor-
geous monument which the lightnings of heaven
have blasted. Instead of the surroundings in w^iich
it formerly stood, remaining a suitable setting for its
magnificence, the Khass is now dwarfed by the great
military buildings which have been erected close to
it. Sad, indeed, was the ruin, and also the solitude,
as the occasional passer-by went on, without even
turning to look at it. The famous couplet above, on
the architrave, quoted by Moore in Lalla Rookh^

" And, 0 ! if there be an elysium on earth,
It is this, it is this ! "

is still there, a mockery amid the desolation which has
engulfed them all, showing how truly " their glory,
their multitude, and their pomp," and he that rejoiced,
have descended into it; while the holy Christianity,

From Boston to Bareilly. 259

on the destruction of which thej inadlj staked every
thing, holds to-day in India a higher position than
ever, and all the higher for their overthrow !

We went over to Agra to see once more, and for
the last time, the matchless Taj Mahal. No deterio-
ration there ! It looked as lovely and pure as ever.
We visited it in the morning and in the evening
light, and again at midnight, to gaze upon it under
the full moon — a different aspect being presented each
time. No doubt it will be as stainless a hundred
years hence as it is to-day. It is, perhaps, the only
monument originated by the Moguls that abides in
unimpaired beauty and perfection. All the rest —
even "the Pearl Mosque," not far from it — are
quietly tending to decay. 'Tis well that the lovely
Taj was not in any way identified either with their
cruel and licentious creed or their vicious practice.
Contrary to the license of his house, and the liberty
of his Koran, Shah Jehan, its builder, chose not to
be a polygamist.

*' He loved one only, and was true to her,"

and thus the gifted and beautiful Empress Moomtaj^
who lies in such splendor under that glorious dome,
had no competitor in the affections of her husband.
This matchless gem, the architectural wonder of the
world, is considered to be a national monument, and
will be preserved unimpaired, with all its appropriate
surroundings, as long as England rules India. Coming

260 From Boston to Bareilly.

out toward midnight, and taking our last longing
look at all this loveliness, I ventured to inquire of a
lady, whose cultured taste I knew I might rely upon,
whether, in my full description of the Taj^ given in
The Land of the Veda, I had said one word too much
in its favor. With great emphasis she answered, "O,
no, no ; it is worthy of it all." The New Jerusalem
will certainly be more lovely, but it may safely be
2)redicted that, up to the hour when that vision of di-
vine beauty " whose builder and maker is God " is
seen coming down out of heaven, human eyes will
never look upon any object more lovely than the Taj
Mahal of Agra.

What a change it was, to return again from this
scene to Delhi ! There is something very distressing
and solemn in the effect which the view of this Mogul
desolation exercises upon the mind of the thoughtful
beholder. It seems as if the finger of God pointed
out from the mystery around, and said, " This is my
retribution to my enemies!" One feels conscious that
no human hand could have accomplished it. For
long centuries this great system was supreme, — the
most powerful, wealthy, and combined of Oriental
sovereignties, — and was seated in the center of all nat-
ural resources. Yet this amazing power perished from
the earth — perished, not of want, for it was wealthy
to the last ; not of decay of population, or of dry-
ing up of resources — they were more abundant than
ever ; did not die of war — for India was never more

From Boston to Bareilly. 261

peaceful than when this dynasty drew tlie sword, and
wantonly broke that tranquillity. Why, then, did it
die ? As the worldling calculates, it had all the ele-
ments of mortal life — ought to be living now — and
living on for a thousand years to come. Yet, it is
absolutely dead ! One is tempted to ask, with indig-
nation, some of those sneering infidels who can talk
or wTite human history without recognizing God,
" Gentlemen, here is a wonderful case for investiga-
tion ; it lies there before you, dead from some cause ;
please account for that dissolution, and tell the world
in your wisdom how this ghastly death came ; exam-
ine thoroughly, and make out an honest verdict that
mankind can believe. We give you ample time and
unrestricted opportunity, and await your reply."

We may wait, but it will be in vain. These un-
candid and prejudiced men will not be honest where
God is concerned. Sooner than admit His interven-
tion and government they will slink away uncom-
mitted, or else, by some subterfuge or contemptible
witticism, try to cover their escape from the obli-
gation of an honest reply wliich would satisfy the
judgment of candid men. Even the heathen magi-
cians of Pharaoh's court had far more candor, and
yielded to the logic of the facts; giving their de-
cision in tlie case submitted to them : " This is the
finger of God." But over the prostrate form of this
Oriental dynasty enlightened Christian philosophy
can hold its inquest, and witli full reasons, founded in

2G2 From Boston to Bareilly.

the divine wisdom in history, render its verdict that,
" It died by the visitation of GodP There are some
things that enter into the life of a dynasty, or a peo-
ple, to raise it to permanence. The most important
is the " righteousness which exalteth a nation." The
absence of this fully accounts for the death we are
considering — and there never was more terrible evi-
dence furnished to the w^orld than their history con-
tains, that "the iniquity of these" Amorites — from
the king on his throne to tlie Sodomite in his den —
became so " full," that " they -perished in their own
corruption " under the awful judgment of a just and
holy God !

The ruin thus called down upon themselves is even
more terrible in its manifestation than what I have
yet mentioned. One item more of it may be allowed.
Perhaps nowhere else on this globe can such a sight
be seen as that which the traveler beholds strewn all
around him, going from Delhi to the Kootub. In
the days gone by tliose fourteen miles were dotted
over with the splendid palaces, mosques, mausoleums,
and memorials of the imperial house and its wealthy
aristocracy. Here were the " Versailles " and " Al-
hambras" of Oriental Mohammedanism. The Kootub
— the grandest column in the w^orld — rose peerless in
the center of all this magnificence. The Kootub still
stands there. Go to its summit, and survey the scene
around. You never saw such silent and naked deso-
lation as that circle of twenty miles presents to your

From Boston to Bareilly. 263

view. All is solitude and ruins, amid which the
liowls of the hungry jackals and the prowling wolves
are heard incessantly, from early night-fall to the break
of day. Yet here, within this one view, hundreds of
millions of the wealth of poor India's toiling people
have been wasted on extravagances that yield not one
cent of beneficial result to-day. All sunk in profit-
less enterprises of pride and vainglory, on which has
come down a retribution that must be divine, smiting
the whole with blasting and desolation beyond all
hope of restoration. Not one of the multitude of
these once magnificent buildings remains perfect in
form. There they are, struck and mutilated, as if in
literal fulfillment of the threatenino; of the Son of
God : "He shall rule them with a rod of iron ; as the
vessels of a potter shall they be broken to sliivers:
even as I received of my Father." Rev. ii. 27. Here
we can find an adequate cause for tliis dreadful deso-
lation. This Oriental sovereignty identified itself,
body and soul, with the creed, the spirit and purpose,
of "The False Prophet," till at length He, whose
warning vengeance liad already expressed itself, heard
the rampant blasphemy uttered here against the Re-
deemer and Governor of the world, and saw the un-
exampled butchery of more than eighteen hundred of
his people, within that circumference of which Delhi
was the center. " Then God arose," and that " rod
of iron " descended with discriminating vengeance,
and struck the dynasty, and all confederate with

20 i From Boston to Bakeilly.

it, out of existence forever. And this is the
result !

You turn from the fearful scene, but carry away in
your soul the reflection tliat what you have witnessed
is no freak of nature, no accidental desolation, no slow
growth of national decline. It is the result of some
adequate cause. The wideness of the ruin intimates
a penalty. The extent and completeness of the
calamity, admitting of no redemption, evidences that
tin's is not man's work, but Heaven's vengeance ; and
the fearful record of guilt which preceded it, shuts
you up to the conviction tliat what you have seen are
'' the wages of sin," which a holy God begins to pay
out, even in this world, upon the body, the soul, the
surroundings and circumstances of those who dare
defy his laws. Little does it avail, in any age or in
any land, that licentious sinners close their ears and
decline to hear, or even that they choose to scoff at
human and divine warnings. As sure as the sunrise
their sins will find them out ; and some day, when
mercy is clear gone, they will have to w^ake up, as
these have done, to the terrible consciousness that "God
is not mocked : for w^hatsoever a man soweth, that
shall he also reap." This fearful retribution, falling
as heavily on the locality as it did on the individuals
there, reminds one of the doom of the sensualists of
Sodom and Gomorrah, who " are set forth for an ex-
ample, suffering the vengeance of eternal fire."

That magnificent Taj, a few miles off to the south,

Fkom Boston to Bareilly. 265

standing so cLaste and lovely in its earthly paradise,
makes tliis blight, by contrast, all the more fearful.
There is woman honored, the seventh commandment
obeyed, and the Taj is the monument of the virtue
wliich God has crowned. Here is the reverse.
Woman wronged, the seventh commandment out-
raged in its entire spirit and purpose, while old Delhi
lies scorched under divine vengeance. "It is a fear-
ful thing to fall into the hands of the living God."

Wicked men in high and low life may sneer at these
lessons, and at the doctrine of the Second Psalm, as
having little to do with national life and accounta-
bility ; yet this humble page may liv^e long enough
to illustrate the Cliristian conviction that there is no
fact of the coming future more certain than that every
remaining organized portion of this " mystery of in-
iquity," wherever found (in Utah, in Turkey, or else-
where), which dishonors woman and insults the Lord
Christ and his holy law, shall as surely meet their day
of accountability as these crowned and powerful ene-
mies of both did in India in 1857-8, when that burn-
ins: indio^nation left them " neither root nor branch."

4. Before we depart from this city of Delhi, I wish
to ask attention to a group of facts such as my read-
ers may lind it difficult to parallel in the range of hu-
man history for hostility to Christianity, and for the
condign punishment with which the Almighty visited
the guilt and overthrew the purposes of their origi-
nators. This court had relation to every one of them ;

266 Feom Boston to Bareilly.

tliey have all occurred in our own day ; and tlie very
existence of our mission was involved in the results.
What makes it more marked is, that the punishment
bore just proportion to the transgression. Where that
guilt included the shedding of Christian blood, the
vengeance was heaviest and most marked, amounting,
in such cases, to the annihilation of each party, and
the complete extinguishment of their power and in-
fluence in India ; and also in so counter- working their
purposes that their very wrath was made to ])raise
God and advance his cause.

Five names were, a short time ago, among the most
prominent in India for wealth, power, and opposition
to the religion of the Son of God. One was a Na-
wab, another a King, another a Peishwa, another an
Emperor, and the fiftli a Maharajah. Only one of
these is living, and this he owes entirely to the fact
that the English removed him in time out of the way
of the danger which swept all the rest and their power
away forever.

The Xawab, Khan Bahadur, stood nearest to us,
being a resident at Bareilly, where he was deputy
judge. His hypocrisy was equal to his cruelty.
While he was trying to throw the English ofiicers
off their guard, with the assurance that the Sepoys
there would not rise — and that, even if they did, no
harm should come to us, as he would protect us — he
had in his pocket, from the Emperor of Delhi, the
sunnud (or patent) constituting him Nawab of

From Boston to Bareilly. 267

Eohilcund. Yet, on the 31st of May, when the
mutiny broke out, he arrested and hanged fifteen of
the English gentlemen on a gallows at the Kat-
walee of Bareilly, including his own superior officer,
Judge Eobertson. By this cruel man, myself, wife,
and children were condenmed to suffer the same
fate. How we escaped out of his hands is narrated
elsewhere. But how wonderful it was that I should
be brought round to Bareilly from Dellii, some time
after, to see him a prisoner, and witness his trial
and condemnation. That, in company with Brother
Humphrey, I should visit him in prison, and urge
upon him the acceptance of the mercy which even
a penitent murderer might obtain from the merciful
Saviour. But all in vain. He hated the very name
of Jesus. I saw him taken to his death (on tfiC spot
wliere he executed the Christians three years before)
exulting that he had " had the satisfaction of killing
the Christian dogs, and would kill as many more
again if he only had the power ! " Such was the
Nawab of Bohilcund, and these were his last words
on earth. But of what avail was all his blasphemy
and rage and cruelty against Christ and Christians !
Divine justice swept him from the earth, and made
his doom such a warning to his co-religionists that
those fanatics have trembled under the lesson, and a
divine protection has been thrown over the lives of
the followers of Christ — native and foreign, male and
female — such as India never saw before.

268 Fkom Boston to Eareilly.

The next consjDicuous name is that of the Moham-
medan King of Oude. His antecedents, and espe-
cially his hatred of Christianity, show that, had he
remained in power, he would probably have united
hii energies with his neighbor. Khan Bahadur, and
the two could, no doubt, have swept out of the Gan
getic valley every vestige of Christian life or influ-
ence. In this case Lucknow might never have been
"relieved," the Residency have shared the fate of
Cawnpore, and their common master, the Emperor
of Delhi, have been sustained. One trembles at the
idea of what this would have involved to Christianity
and English rule ; what thousands would have been
added to the eighteen hundred victims of Mohammed-
an cruelty, or the long years of conflict and suffer-
ing requisite to recover the ground which civiliza-
tion and Christianity had lost. It would have given
Mohammedanism a distinct and terrible victory over
Christianity, with a greater power than ever in India,
and placed the two hundred millions of Hindus
more completely at their mercy, without any control
to appeal to for protection against them. There
has lately appeared a volume, by an English civil
officer {The Garden of India ^ by H. C. Irwin), which
justifies, to my mind, the fear that no other result
could be expected, had this corrupt government of
the king continued only one year longer. But the
" annexation " of Oude to British territory, and the
removal of the king to Calcutta, on the pension of

From Boston to Bareilly. 269

liis rank, in the spring of 1856, was just in time to
save him from committing himself id the cause of
the Delhi emperor. His hands were thus kept
from being stained with Christian blood; and so,
instead of filling a criminal's grave to-day, after
inflicting fearful injury, he lives, and has his title
and his pay, but still following that foolish and sin-
ful life so graphically described by his American
secretary, formerly referred to.

The third personage is the Peishwa, Nana Sahib.
This matchless monster (whose fearful career I have
presented in The Land of the Veda) aimed to
combine all the influence of his peculiar position,
with the objects of the emperor, in the overthrow of
Christianity. His proclamations and massacres, in
carrying out his purposes, show what he was capable
of doing had they only succeeded. But that " good
soldier of Jesus Christ," Henry Havelock, met and
overthrew this cruel pagan, drove him into Eohil-
cund, where he made his last stand at Bareilly, aiding
Khan Bahadur, and where Havelock's men, following
him up, had another dash at him. His forces fled,
and he w^ent rushing through Philibeet into the
depths of the Oude forest, never to be seen again by
mortal eye. There that murderer of Christian
women and children met his fate in one of the
ravines under Nepaul. Probably the "Koyal Bengal
Tigers," which abound in that vicinity, closed the
career of this wretched man. Only this form of

270 From Boston to Bakeilly.

deatli was likely there, and no doom could be more
dreadful. We can imagine him, as he there reached
his last hour ; all hope and help gone, alone in the
dreadful Terai, crouching by his last iire, which he is
no longer able to replenish, while the watching and
impatient brute that has tracked him draws nearer,
till, in full sight now, with their terrific roar and sure
spring, he seizes the pampered maharajah of Bithoor
as his prey ! The Nana earned and received the title
of "The Tiger of Bithoor,*' and if the above intima-
tions were realized (as seems probable), he might well
say in the awful hour to which he was brought, as
was said by Adoni-bezek, " As I have done, so God
has requited me ! "

The judgment of the Emperor was next in order.
He was tried, and, after a j)atient investigation, found
guilty of all the charges, and was sentenced (not to
death, on account of his rank) but, to transportation
for life. It was a fearful penalty to pass from a throne
to the deck of a convict ship, to close his life in a for-
eign land. Burmah was chosen as the place. There
he died in 1861. Five years after witnessing his trial
I visited his l-onely grave behind the Quarter Guard
of the British regiment at Hangoon — within " The
Golden Chersonese " of Ptolemy, quoted from Milton
on my title-page — and saw how the tropical rains
were leveling down to obliteration the little mound,
unmarked by a single stone, which covered the dis-
honored dust of this imperial blasphemer of the Son

From Boston to Bakeilly. 271

of God and persecutor of his people ! The only one
of his race without a gorgeous monument over liim.
But no Taj or Mausoleum will ever rise above the
spot where rests, solitary and alone, on a foreign shore
and in a felon's grave, the last descendant of the
Great Moguls! In such a scene, and with all its
terrible recollections around me, how appropriate
seemed the words, " So let all thine enemies perish,
O Lord : but let them that love him be as the sun
when he goeth forth in his might ! "

The fifth, in this group of enemies of the divine
Redeemer, was the Maharajah Runjeet Singh, sov-
ereign of the Punjab. This turbulent adventurer,
who had carved out with his sword the empire of the
-Q.VG rivers (as the word Punjab means) by making
war on his. weaker neio:libors, and then annexino^ their
dominions, was as unscrupulous and despotic a char-
acter as can be found even in India history. At the
age of seventeen he had his own mother assassinated,
as she stood in the way of his ambition. " Lahore of
Great Mogul " he seized and made liis capital, and
then annexed Cashmere and several surrounding^
States. He thus artfully, yet with great tact, built
himself up at the expense of both emperor and the
chiefs around him, and became so powerful that all
feared him.

Circumstances soon afterward brought the Delhi
emperor. Shah Shooja, across the boundary into Run-
jeet Singh's dominions ; and, suspecting no treachery,

272 From Boston to Bareilly.

lie had brought his family and part of his treasure
with him. They were affably received, a palace
placed at their service, and royal hospitality tendered.
In a day or two Runjeet learned that the imperial
family liad the famous Koh-i-7ioor diamond with
them. At once his cupidity was aroused and his
measures taken ; the palace was surrounded by his
guards, and the unfortunate emperor was coolly told
that as soon as the diamond was surrendered to Eun-
jeet their meals would be served, but not one morsel
till that was done ! Thev held out till the morninoj
of the third day, when some of the ladies were at the
point of death, ere the gem was given up. It thus
became tlie possession of " the Lion of the Punjab,"
as Runjeet was then called. He had lost one eye in
battle, and his fancy was, on state occasions, to bal-
ance the good eye by the brilliant diamond on the
other side of his brow, and thus presented a whimsi-
cal and ogrsish aspect, that amazed those who looked
at him. He was utterly ignorant — could neither read
nor write — and was as intolerant and bigoted as he
was illiterate. He was sustained in his despotism by
a European adviser, who has a heavy account to ren-
der before God. Their resolution was formed that,
whoever entered the Punjab, Jesus Christ should
not ! An oath is said to have been sworn that " no
missionary should ever cross the Sutlej " — the eastern
boundary line between Runjeet's dominions and the
English territory. So determined was the old sinner

From Boston to Bareilly. 273

that the recent measures passed by the British govern-
or-general, Lord William Bentinck, for the suppi'es-
sion of suttee, should be treated with contempt so far
as he was concerned, that he made express provision
in his will that the ancient custom should be fully
and ostentatiously observed and carried out in con-
nection with his own funeral ceremonies. I have tlie
description of the fearful scene from the pen of a
German gentleman who was physician to Runjeet
Singh, and witnessed the entire ceremony. TJie doc-
tor says that the suttee was conducted on such a scale
of magnificence as to cost several hundred thousand
dollars. The maharajah had named eleven of his
wives (four queens and seven concubines) who were
to burn with his body, the youngest being only fif-
teen years of age !

I need not give the dreadful details of this pro-
gramme, which was strictly carried out. If Hunjeet
Singli died with the ho]3e that his "high example"
would tend to the restoration of this infernal practice
of burning living women with their husband's dead
bodies, he never made a greater mistake. God had
something to say and do in tliis matter, and his " set
time had come" to do it. lie withdrew his restrain-
ing providence from the successors of this wicked
man, and in nine years they had rushed on to their
own destruction. India looked across the Sutlej, and
saw a scene of carnage and destruction in the Punjab

the equal of which has seldom been witnessed among
18

274 Fkom Boston to Baeeilly.

men. The four successors of Kunjeet — Kurruck
Singh, Noa I^ihal Singh, Sheir Singh, and Protal — •
were each murdered within a few months of ascend-
ing the throne. The queen regent, Clmnd Kunwar,
was also assassinated. The four prime ministers —
Dhyan Singh, Gulal Singh, Jawahir Singh, and Ilira
Singh — were all murdered in succession, and while in
office ! In the greatness of their folly the Sikhs
twice crossed the Sutlej to invade British India. The
iirst time thej were whipped back again ; but, on the
second occasion, the decisive victory of Gujarat, on
the 21st of February, 1849, overthrew tlie Sikhs,
abolished their mad government, and the Punjab was
permanently annexed to British India. Then came
a peace which has never since been disturbed.

The little boy sovereign, Dhuleep Singh, the last
child of Runjeet Singli (then nine years old), was
taken under British protection, and intrusted for edu-
cation to the care of Sir John Logan, of Futtyghur
(a devout Presbyterian physician). So ended an em-
pire that was founded in blood and rapine. What
became of that " oath " which was to exclude Chris-
tianity from Western India, and that " royal exam-
ple" which was to restore the horrors of the suttee?

Let us recognize the hand of God in this history,
also, and see how he can make " the wrath of man "
to praise him, and restrain the remainder. England
is in India for higher purposes than those contem-
plated by such of her representatives as do not " fear

From Boston to Bareilly. 275

God and work righteousness." But her " devout
men " there, in the civil and military services, recog-
nize the higher mission that she has to fulHll, and
freely give their influence and their money to push
forward the work of the enlightenment and evangeli-
zation of the millions whom they govern. While
such work is being fostered under their administra-
tion God will take care of British rule in India, for,
whatever its faults and failings, it is fultilling his
own blessed purposes. Now for the lessons in this
ease.

Had Kunjeet Singh been permitted to live to
carry out" his intentions, or the Sikh nation retained
autonomy eight years longer than 1849, where would
British India be to-day ? There can hardly be a
doubt but that, in 1857, the Sikhs would have joined
the Delhi emperor, and their aid would have been
ample, united with the Sepoy army and directed by
the Mohammedan power, to sweep Christianity from
India before a soldier from England could reach the
country. This is what might have been, and proba-
bly would have been, except for the Divine foresight
and intervention. Instead of this result Providence
arranged for the annexation of the Punjab, and the
neutralization of all their power for evil. And more,
God had his chosen instruments ready for the emer-
gency. John Lawrence was installed in power as
the ruler of the Sikh nation, and such was the be-
nign effect of his Christian administration over even

276 Fkom Boston to Baeeilly.

that turbulent race, that, at the end of seven years,
when the Sepoys rose in 1857, instead of joining
them, the Sikhs responded to Lawrence's call, and
went by the thousand to Delhi, ranging themselves by
the side of the little English force of five thousand
men, and helping them to take that strong city in
September, even before one British regiment had
time to reach Delhi from England.

Nor is this all. How different now would be the
tenure of British authority in India had not tlie Pun-
jab been annexed, and its brave people won to Christian
rule ! If the narrow Sutlej were to-day the British
frontier against Russian aggression instead of Afghan-
istan and the Khyber Pass, what solicitude and
even fear would trouble the souls of the rulers of
India ! But the annexation of 1849 carried back
that frontier three hundred miles west. Had not
this been done, with Cabul conquered, the Punjab
captured, and the armies of the Russian autocrat ad-
vanced three hundred miles into the Indus valley ere
touching British territory, how different would be
the situation from what it is to-day, when the tallest
mountains on the earth, and the narrow and easily de-
fended Khyber Pass, shut out so effectually the only
foe which England needs to fear in the East !

Again, instead of suttee being restored by the
example of tlie maharajah, the attempt became a
horror, and the native principalities ranged them-
selves ever since more loyally by the side of the par-

From Boston to Bareilly. 277

amount power to forbid and extinguish this crime
forever in British India.

Of course the Punjab, under Sir John Lawrence,
was thrown open to Christianity. What high ground
he took upon this matter his w^ords attest, and what
honors of success and peace did the Ahnighty put
upon the liead of this grand, God-fearing ruler!
Were ever words uttered more worthy of a Christian
hero than those which Sir John Lawrence wrote at
Lahore, in a state paper issued when Delhi fell?
Those w^ords are :

" All measures which are really and truly Chris-
tian can be carried out in India, not only without
danger to British rule, but, on the contrary, with ev-
ery advantage to its stabiUty. Christian tilings done
in a Christian way will never alienate the heathen.
About such things there are qualities which do not
provoke nor excite distrust, nor harden to resistance.
It is when unchristian things are done in the name
of Christianity, or when Christian things are done in
an unchristian way, that mischief and danger are oc-
casioned. Measures of Christian duty will arouse no
danger — will conciliate instead of provoke — and
will subserve the ultimate diffusion of the truth
among the people."

The Sutlej was " crossed " by Christian mission-
aries. Lahore and the leading cities of the Punjab
were occupied, chiefly by our American Presbyterian
brethren, and success soon crowned their labors. So

2Y8 From Boston to Eaeeilly.

far had tliej progressed by Christmas, 1862, that
the J invited the missionaries of North India to hold
their General Conference with them in the capital of
the Punjab. We went, " crossed the Sutlej," and
entered Lahore, and, to our surprise, found the ar-
rangements for holding the Conference were made
in a building right opposite the magnificent mauso-
leum where repose the cremated remains of Runjeet
Singh and his eleven wives. During the week we
went over, and, standing round the urn under the
dome, we sung cur Christian doxology over his dust.
In the photograph group of that Conference the cen-
tral figure is the Rajah of KuppurthuUa, the Punjab
having the honor of furnishing the first Christian
prince in India. By his side stand several of those
English soldiers and civilians whose prudence and
valor saved the Punjab.

Yet all tliis, so wonderful, was but a part of our
divine Saviour's answer to Runjeet Singli. His son,
Dliuleep Singh, whom he never saw (for the child was
born a few weeks after his father's cremation), the
last and only heir to his throne, was saved from the
carnage which swept away all the rest of his family.
This boy grew up, in circumstances of peace and
safety, under his tutor, Sir John Logan, and was led
by the reading of the Holy Scriptures to the reception
of Christianity. His tutor urged him not to press for
baptism (as he earnestly desired when but seventeen
years old) until he should become of age, and could

From Boston to Baeeilly. 279

freely judge and act for himself. This was done, and
the maharajah came ont in due time before India,
and was baptized into the Clmstian faith. The Koh-
i-noor — his by inheritance from his father — was sent
as a present to Queen Yictoria, and he himself con-
cluded to live in England on the pension of his rank
(made sure to him and his heirs forever), fixing his
home in a beautiful residence at Twickenham, near
London. And, further, when I was passing through
England on my way home from India, in March last,
I went out to attend one of tlie supplementary meet-
ings of the Moody and Sankey services, held near
the residence of the maharajah. To my great de-
light, I was informed that some of the family had
been attending these services, and the eldest son had
experienced the saving grace of God. Unwilling to
trust mere rumor in such a case, I wrote to Dr. Pen-
tecost, who was assisting Moody and Sankey, and re-
ceived from him the assurance that my information
was correct ; the young prince had been converted,
and had become a zealous worker in the meetings.
He knew him well, and assured me that I might re-
joice in the fact. I do and will rejoice, and bow
down before the sovereign majesty of our divine Re-
deemer in the presence of tliis, his own adorable work.
ISTot only the son, but also the grandson of " the ma-
harajah," Runjeet Singh, have become servants of
our Lord Jesus Christ !

To me all this reads like a passage from some un-

280 From Boston to Bareilly.

eartlilj volume — like a page from tliat book wliicli
contains tlie hidden mysteries of Almighty God,
^vhich only " the Lion of the tribe of Judah " is
worthy to open and unseal. He opens and unseals
them for the liberation and redemption of our race
from the tyranny of evil and the power of sin.
India, long suffering India, is to realize her full and
perfect portion of this redemption, and is to have her
glad share in that grand celestial anthem to her new
Lord and Master : " They sung a new song, saying,
Thou art worthy to take the book, and to open the
seals thereof : for thou wast slain, and hast redeemed
us to God by thy blood out of every kindred, and
tongue, and people, and nation." Eev. v, 9. Amen,
mighty and victorious Christ ! Thou art worthy, and
tliese are thy opening triumphs in India; and tliey
guarantee to thy believing and exultant saints tJiine
ultimate victories over all that is diabolical and sinful
there.

" Hope of a world condemned, Messiah, hail !
Nor hell, nor death, shall o'er thy Church prevail ;
Thy conquering arm the serpent foe shall bind,
Thy blood redeem, thy scepter rule, mankind."

From Boston to Baeeilly. 281

CHAPTER YIL

" 0 day of days 1 far off its coming shone,

The hope of ages past; 0 joy of joys,

To see it come at length ! 0 double joy

If we have watched, and wept, and toiled, and prayed,

'Mid the deep darkness of the night of tears,

To speed the advent of that morn of joy

Whose sun, once risen, shall never more go down,

While the Lord God Omnipotent doth reign.

And the great ages roll, in golden calm.

Through the high Sabbath of eternity." — Dr. Mitchell.

We are back again in Lucknow, and about to start
for Bareillj. The train leaves at nine o'clock P. M.
Formerly from this to Bareilly took three nights'
traveling by palanquin. Now we are to roll over the
entire space in six hours. Leaving at nine P. M. we
are due there at three o'clock in the morning.

The moon is at her best, the air is warm, and the
atmosphere clear — one of those lovely nights in Octo-
ber not often seen outside of India. No wonder Mr.
Irwin, in describing this valley, entitles his book The
Garden of India. Bishop Foster and others desig-
nate it in the same way. The fertility is wonderful.
Two harvests each year reward the toil of the culti-
vators ; so that, although the farms are very small, we
have to remember the compensation which this
double product yields to the cultivator.

2S2 Feom Boston to Bareilly.

Wide plains, mostly without a rock or stone, and
tlie soil as fria])le as though pulverized. It has been
producing ricli crops for over three thousand years,
without receiving the help that, in our colder climes,
is considered necessary to keep land in condition.
What we put into the ground to fertilize it is there
reserved for fuel. Cow-dung mixed with straw, and
dried in the sun, forms a peat that is sold in the ba-
zaars as fuel for native cooking. Wood is too scarce
and dear for burning, nor could the people afford
either this or charcoaL But, for less than one cent,
they can obtain enough of the above peat for a day's
cooking. So it is the universal fuel, and the land has
to do without its help. In fact, water and sun in
India seem to be about all that are really necessary.
The fructifying effect of the sun, with the moisture,
secures the harvest. The natural rain-fall produces
the first and heavier harvest of sugar-cane, corn, to-
bacco, arrowroot, etc ; while artificial irrigation
(water being plenty and easily obtained) yields the
second harvest, which includes cotton, wheat, dal,
barley, rice, and the smaller grains generally. The
results are accomplished by the simplest of all modes
of agriculture. These conservative people hold on
tenaciously to the old methods of the far past. Their
tools and plows are just the same, and no better than
those used by their ancestors in the days of Abraham.
The}^ resent change and improvement, as involving
a " reflection upon the wisdom of their ancestors." I

From Boston to Bareilly. 283

introduced the cliain-pump and wheelbarrow, but
they would not use them. They met my " new-fan-
gled notion " with the expostulation (better to them
than a score of arguments or any amount of experi-
ence), by saying, " Now, sahib, from time immemo-
rial our forefathers carried clay on their heads in
baskets, and what are we that we should set up to
be wiser than they ? " So I had to cease the effort.
Only a change of religion will lift them out of these
ruts, and that does so. Our people, as soon as they
receive the grace of God, are emancipated from such
folly, and ready for any temporal improvements that
can better their condition. When this land becomes
Christian, and science has a chance to touch its agri-
culture, how the face of the earth will bloom ! Their
little miserable plow (made of two sticks) never yet
turned up the soil to the depth of more than about
five inches. Recuperative resources lie beneath which
a Christian plow would bring to the surface. Hea-
thenism is an unmitigated curse, not only to the body
and soul, the heart, character, and life, but also to the
very soil they till, the homes they live in, and the
country over which they travel.

But the blessed change and era of all possible im-
provements is coming; when this "garden of India''
will be made to bloom like to "the garden of the
Lord ; " and, in this sense also, " There shall be a
handful of corn in the earth upon the top of the
mountains ; the fruit thereof shall shake like Lebanon :

284 From Boston to Bareilly.

and tliey of tlie city shall flourish like grass of the
earth."

"Hasten, Lord, the glorious dayl "

It is characteristic of all false religions (as it is also
of Eomanism), that their " golden age " is in the
past. Heathenism avows this, and monrns over it.
On the contrary, evangelical religion looks exultingly
onward to the future for its golden age of light and
blessing, when " He shall have dominion from sea to
sea, and from the river unto the ends of the earth;"
and when " Men shall be blessed in him every- where,
and all nations shall call him blessed."

But we are rolling along toward the west — sleep is
out of the question, for we are to be in Bareilly in
a few hours ! O, what memories are awake now !
We are living the past over again. Our first recep-
tion there is before our busy recollections. It oc-
cuiTcd just twenty-seven years ago, when this great
valley w^as in " the shadow of death," and we came,
so unconsciously, into the very center of solicitude
and danorer and unutterable sorrow. We had trav-
eled round from Lucknow, via Futtyghur, on the
south, in a little carriage which held my family, and
was drawn by eight men (being more economical
than to travel by palanquin). That journey was a
sample of the past. There were then' no made roads
in the valley, only tracks where bullock carts might
move. So we were forty-eight hours going the sev-
enty-six miles from Futtyghur to Bareilly. The ruts

From Boston to Bareilly. 2S5

were so deep that the axle of our cariiage would
eatcli frequently on the ridge in the center, when all
hands would have to take hold and pull it back ;
with a spade, wliicli we carried for the purpose, wo
would break down the obstruction and throw the
earth into the ruts ; then move on again for a while,
until a similar difficulty would have to be surmounted.
Thus, for two days and nights we " worked our pas-
sage," till I was as much worn out and sleepy as a
man need be.

The good friend, Judge Kobertson, to whom, we
had a note of introduction, and by whom we were
expected, had instructed his servant to watch for our
coming. Worn out with toil, we had all finally
dropped asleep after passing the last station, where
our men were changed, and knew no more till I
lieard a native trying to awake us by saying, in poor
English, "Sahib, will you have a cup of tea?"
Looking up, there stood the serv^ant. It was nearly
three o'clock in the morning. We were in Bareillj^,
and at the door of the kind gentleman who had
promised to entertain us. He was a devout Presby-
terian, and received us most kindly. Little did I
imagine that, within a few weeks, he would have to
suffer death for being a Christian. lie had been
over thirty years in India, and did not anticipate any
serious trouble, notwithstanding the rumors that were
even then abroad. We remained under his roof
until I found and furnished a house, setting up my

286 Fkom Boston to Barkilly.

books and making all things ready for the commence-
ment of our work. My full report on the field
chosen, with maps and statistics, was prepared and
mailed to tlie Board, and an urgent appeal for some
of the missionaries to be sent on to me. In the
mean time I had opened services, boili in English and
Hindustanee, the latter being conducted by Joel, my
native helper, who was so generously given to me by
our Presbyterian brethren at Allahabad as I came up
the country. The gloom which was daily deepening
led many of the English officers to appreciate the serv-
ices opened for them ; and I have the satisfaction of
knowing that, during the ten weeks wliich intervened,
some of them began to live prayerful lives, and
sought the renewing grace of God.

The service for the natives was, of course, very
small in number. Joel and his wife, and three or
four people who worked for us, and ourselves, witli a
young girl by the name of Maria, constituted the con-
gregation. Maria was the daughter of an Eurasian
store-keeper. She had gone some time before to
visit friends at Calcutta, and while there had been
led to attend the Baptist service, during a time of re-
vival interest, and had experienced religion and been
baptized. She returned to Bareilly, and was de-
lighted to hear that a missionary was coming to her
native city. As soon as we arrived she visited us and
gave in her name, and thus became tlie first female
member of our Church in India. My wife especially

From Boston to Bareilly. 287

rejoiced at the accession of this dear girl, so full of
zeal and Christian simplicity, anticipating great help
from her as our work opened. She spoke both En-
glish and Ilindustanee well, and was very lady-like in
manner and character.

I was not aware, till afterward, what an intense ex-
citement our arrival occasioned among the people
around us. We became the talk of almost every one
in the city. As an illustration of this, I may mention
a visit paid to me by a prominent native gentleman.
Joel did the translating. This person put on an as-
pect of much friendliness, and requested* me to be
candid in answering his inquiries, which I promised
to do. After some nnimportant talk he came to what
he wanted to know, and said : " Now, sahib, we peo-
ple of Bareilly understand that you have come here
as an agent of the English government, to be ready,
when our caste is broken, by either force or fraud, to
baptize us by the thousand, and tlms complete our
Christianization. Is not this so, sahib ? "

I looked at him with astonishment, and replied :
" Why, sir, how could it be so ? I am not even an
Englishman, and have nothing to do with the gov-
ernment."

To understand what followed the reader will re-
member that the natives of India have full confidence
in the word of a white man. They think we are
truthful to the last degree, and don't discount what
we say. They declare of us that the white race are

288 From Boston to Bareilly.

brusque and not courteous (as the English are careless
about returning the salaams and salutations which the
humblest native will always offer when they meet
them), but they allow that this uncourteous race are
honorable to the heart's core. So my native visitor
was amazed at my declaring that I " was not an En-
glishman," and solemnly, as if soiTy to find me telling
an untruth, said :

" Why, sahib, your face is white, you are a Chris-
tian, and you speak the English language ; what else
could you be but an Englishman ? "

I answered, " Why, I am an American."

" A what ? " said he.

" An American," I replied.

Looking confused, and with much emphasis, he
exclaimed, " And what is that f "

I smiled, realizing that it was not flattering to our
national pride to think that here was a tolerably in-
telligent representative of one sixth of the human
family who had never heard of us, and knew not
that, away in the Atlantic, and beyond England,
there was a nation of people as numerous as the En-
glish, who spoke the same language, had white faces,
and were Christians.

I could not make it clear to my visitor. He had
never heard of us. We are not in his geography.
The interview terminated and he left my house, I
fear, under the conviction that I had told a falsehood
to cover my purpose. I have reason to believe that

From Boston to Bareilly. 289

the impression produced by the conversation put my
life in more jeopardy than if the interview had not
taken place. Five or six years afterward, when tlie
Hindu farmer began to receive nearly two rupees for
the same quantity of cotton which he had sold for
one rupee the year before, he began to inquire what
was the reason. Our civil war and blockaded south-
ern ports explained it, and men in India began to
study modern geography; the result was a stimulus
to education in Hindustan. If my visitor survived
till then, it is likely my character for veracity was
entirely redeemed, though it was a long time to wait
for vindication.

The profession of neutrality in religion, which the
government at that time had begun to avow rather
frequently, and sometimes even to the disparagement
of Christianity itself, did not help the situation. It
produced much the same result as my statement
did on this man's prejudiced mind. People there
could not believe it possible that a government could
have a religion and not be zealous for it. To have
it, and hold it lightly, was, in their view, insincere and
deceptive, and contrary to their own practice. It
would have been far better and safer to have avowed
their Christianity, while they disclaimed any inten-
tion to force it, directly or indirectly, upon the ac-
ceptance of any one else. Meanwhile the heathen
and Mohammedan priests were busy turning all this,

and every thing else jDossible, to their purpose, and
19

290 From Boston to Bareilly.

weaving their fearful web around Christian life, and
longing for the time when their willing agents, the
Sepoys, were to rise on the same day and hour all
over India, and extinguish every thing Christian and
English in the land ; and then restore the old regi-
men in all its former vigor and profit to themselves.
Every law that was passed to abolish customs con-
trary to humanity, every missionary that came into
the country, and every school that was opened in-
creased their fears, and intensified their resolution to
extinguish in blood this entire Christian civilization
which had arisen in their country.

These priests saw, with alarm and indignation, the
abolition of ancient rites and ceremonies that were so
liiglily profitable to themselves. With the humanity
that terminated these miseries and murders, in the
interest especially of poor suffering womanhood,
they had no sympathy. They thought only of the
rupees that were lost to themselves by the termina-
tion of these abominable practices, and they cursed in
their hearts the benevolent English officials who had
decreed their final ending. The abolition of female
infanticide, widow burning, the exposure of the sick
to die, the charakpooja (hook-swinging) of Bengal,
the innnolation of devotees under the wheels of the
Juggernaut, and other horrors, they resented with in-
dignation. All these ceremonies were profitable to
them, and hence the priestly caste opposed their aboli-
tion with all their power. What immense gains, for

From Boston to Bareilly. 291

instance, these Brahmans made out of the burning of
those eleven wives of Runjeet Singh ! It was propor-
tionately so where onlj^ one woman was burned. She
was entitled, as her last act before ascending the pjre,
to distribute the contents of her jewel-box among her
weeping friends around her, but the lion's share usually
fell to the officiating priests. These humane laws oE
the British government cut down the perquisites of
these greedy and heartless wretches. They were at
once the high aristocracy and pampered priesthood
of the nation, holding in utter contempt the lower
castes. Every school opened became a terror to
them, and especially when they saw these lower-
caste youth freely received into them, lads '* wliose
fathers tliey would not have set with the dogs of
their flocks." They feared the light which educa-
tion was so sure to bring, the elevation which it
would and did confer upon the classes whom they
despised, and whom they did their best to keep down
and degrade. So they plotted for the utter over-
throw of the government and the missionary, and
anticipated a return of the dreadful past, with a
I'estoration of its fearful customs.

But God is great for emergencies. He had " risen
to shake terribly the earth." These men were al-
lowed to run their course, and madly to hasten on the
destruction of their purposes. They were doomed
to see the consolidation of the Christian civilization
which they so confidently expected to have over-

292 From Boston to Bareilly.

thrown, and which, in its preservation at that time,
was to involve so much for woman, and for India
through woman.

The terrible 31st of May, 1857, came, and the con-
spirators exulted in its ruin and bloodslied. Few
scenes in all the land were more fearful than those pre-
sented that da}^ in Bareilly, including the martyrdom
of Maria and the murder of every Christian whom they
were able to iind. This was followed by our long
months of anxious waiting upon the summit of Ny-
nee Tal, daily and nightly watching the foe that was
besieging us, and thirsting for our blood also. Six
months later came my journey round the Himalayas
to Mussoorie and Delhi, for the providential purpose
indicated in the last chapter, and our return to Nynee
Tal, accompanied by the two missionaries who had
been able, as soon as the road from Cawnpore up had
been cleared of the Sepoys, to join me at Meerut.
Then followed tlie building of our little church, and
the formal opening of our missionary work at Nynee
Tal, while waiting the restoration of British authori-
t}^ below, in Oude and Rohileund, and the coming of
more missionaries with which to occupy the leading
towns and cities. But we had to wait six months
more ere the road to Bareilly was cleared, and we
could return and commence our work there and at
Lucknow. Meanwhile the anticipated famine began
to manifest itself, though its horrors were not fully
developed for half a year later ; but God was aiding

From Boston to Bareilly. 293

us in getting ready for the part which we were to act
in that great emergency.

Five missionary families were soon to sail from
"New York to strengthen our hands, which would
raise our number to ten. Help was pouring in to
provide homes for them, and my hands were full of
liard toil to get ready for all that were coming. Ac-
commodations were procured in Lucknow by pur-
chase, but in Bareilly I had to build. Every Euro-
pean residence had been burned, except the Freema-
son's Hall, which the Sepoys had spared, as they
understood that something mysterious occasionally
occurred there, and it might not be lucky to touch
it ; so it stood uninjured. Perhaps houses were
never erected amid greater difficulties than those in
Bareilly. By being prompt I managed to secure
good sites, and to obtain safe titles to them, and then
purchased and laid in what material I could obtain
for erecting two good mission houses without delay.
The hot season was coming on, the tropical rains
would begin toward the close of June. The mission
liouses must be covered in before the first of July.
I had nearly sixty masons and caqienters employed,
and gave my full time to push things ahead with
them. Providence sent me just the man I needed to
help me — a native by the name of Joseph Fieldbrave,
a Christian, who had been one of the Lucknow gar-
rison, and fought well for Christianity there. He
was more a man of business than Joel, so I appointed

294 Fkom BosToisr to Bareilly.

the latter to go to JDreachiDg with the missionary I
had stationed at Lncknow, and retained Joseph with
myself at Bareilly. We. got on well wdth our work
till a competition commenced with the engineer offi-
cer having charge of erecting the barracks, hospital,
and other buildings for the English troops, who were
waiting under canvas. He was in as much oi a
hurry to have his soldiers sheltered in time as I was
to provide for the coming missionaries.

To facilitate matters the government passed a spe-
cial law, giving him the right to seize every kiln of
bricks and every lot of timber he could find for sale,
paying the value, of course. So I had to run a race
wnth this engineer, a Major H. He could not come
in on my ground and take any thing I had there, but
he might go round me and find out, if he could,
w^here I obtained materials to keep my men going.
Bat Joseph and myself worked hard, and the walls
went up fast. The major rode past daily, and won-
dered at what he saw. He had power and plenty
of money, yet his stock of materials was scant, and
his walls did not go up as fast as he desired. He
formed the resolution that he would find out where
I got my materials, and then steal a march on me,
and help himself at our expense. Joseph and I were
determined that he should not if we could prevent it.
Yet we made no plan, nor did I instruct Joseph what
to do or say. I knew this good native had perfect
sympathy with me in the work being done ; that he

From Boston to Bareilly. . 295

was a man of prayer, and was looking to tlie Lord, as
I was, for help to carry on this work from day to day ;
and that, in addition, he had a good stock of natural
shrewdness, which could be depended on. I loved
Joseph and trusted him fully, and he cordially recip-
rocated my esteem and affection. We used to be up
early while some other people were sleeping, and this
was in some measure the secret of our success. So
the walls continued to go up, and we were getting
the roofs ready and doors and windows made, to the
surprise of our friend, the major.

One day, seeing Joseph alone, he took his oppor-
tunity, rode up and saluted him, was very friendly,
and put Joseph in good humor. He then said, " Now
Joseph, I want to talk to you a little, and ask you a
question or two."

*' All right, sahib, I will be glad to hear you and
answer you."

The major felt that his way was open to advance
further, and he began to praise me to Joseph as a man
of energy and ability, to all of which my good help-
er fully assented. The major then ventured a little
nearer to liis object, became more confidential, and said:

" Well, Joseph, it is wonderful how your sahib does
push his work along upon these houses. Why, I pass
by daily and the walls grow higher, and yet his heaps
of bricks and timber don't seem to grow much less.
It is wonderful. Now, Joseph, how does he do it ?
Where does he get his supplies ? "

296 From Boston to Baeeilly.

Without any hesitation Joseph answered, with one
of his own pleasant smiles, " Sahib, I'll tell yon," and
the major's ear was set to catch every word ; " Well,
don't you know, sahib, that my sahib is Jesus
Christ's man ? "

^' O yes, I know that, but then about the supplies ? "

"Well, sahib, he is doing this work for Jesus
Christ." That was assented to, and he continued :
" You see, sahib, he gets anxious sometimes about
having materials enough to iinish them in time, and
when this occurs, he just goes and tells God in prayer
and asks Inm to help him, and God then gives him
just what he wants, and that, sahib, is where my sahib
gets his supplies."

It was a novel idea of commissariat to the major, so,
gathering up his reins, he bid Joseph good-morning
and rode off. My worthy helper came round to
'where I was and told me, witli a merry twinkle in
his eye, the whole conversation.

Nor did Joseph say one word which he did not
fully believe. He knew it w^as my habit to do exact-
ly as he said, asking help of God, and then using all
the common sense and opportunity with which provi-
dence favored us from day to day, and that thus we
were kejDt going. If the major had had " spiritual
discernment " and " marked a providence," he would
have "comprehended" the exact correctness of Jo'
seph's reply. But I suppose his inability led him to
take the more limited and worldly view, and he set

From Boston to Bareilly. 297

down the answer to Joseph's adroitness to head him
off in his artful effort. Perhaps it was a pretty good
illustration of the text which says, " Be ye wise as
serpents and harmless as doves." But the major was
more than ever puzzled to find out from what brick
kiln and timber yard our resources were derived. He
little knew that (apart from what we first obtained
before the law gave him his peculiar power) we had
given up competing with him on that line, and were
drawing what we further needed from a source of
which he did not even dream.

Here Joseph's sagacity was of great assistance to
me. Some time before, when the piles began to di-
minish rather fast, and we were becoming anxious,
he called my attention to the fact that, in the recapt-
ure of Bareilly, the year previously. General Jones,
approaching it from the Delhi side, had to do some
damage with his artillery to drive out the Sepoys and
compel surrender. So there were some ruins here and
there, of no particular use to their owners, which
Joseph found they would be glad to sell, as we de-
sired the materials only and not the land. Tliey were
willing to wait till next year to build, when the
emergency would be over, and prices would have
fallen perhaps one half. Thus it was a mutual advan-
tage to them and us. Joseph would make the bar-
gains and bring me to examine and sanction in each
instance. Then he would put coolies on the walls,
and the bricks, timber, and tiles would be got out, bul-

298 From Boston to Bareilly.

lock carts called, and the loads niarclied up to our
premises. So our heaps were sustained, while our
walls went up, and the major was puzzled to account
for it. But we succeeded, and all w^as ready by the
time that the missionaries arrived. It was a hard
struggle, nevertheless, and especially for my family,
as we had to go through that hot season under canvas,
when the thermometer often stood from 130 to 140
degrees in the sun, and boils and ophthalmia were the
penalty that had to be endured for such exposure.

My good helper had also charge of our little con-
gregation. We fixed up a room as a place of worship,
and Joseph arranged for a dedication of it. One of
the great deficiencies was something to sing that was
suitable. Hymns and tunes were very scarce things
then. But good Joseph assured me that he would
look after that, too. How he could do it was more
than I could imagine. But the Sabbath came round,
the room was ready, had a little pulpit, and really
looked very presentable. Joseph was at his best as
he conducted the service. He had the hymns written
out on paper for any who could read to join. To my
surprise, the singing was most hearty, with tunes that
I had never heard before. When the service closed
Joseph came to me, and was evidently anxious to
know what I thought of the dedication, and especially
of the singing. I told him how much I was pleased,
and said, " But, Joseph, where did you get those
hymns?" With real modesty he answered, "Well,

From Boston to Baretlly. 299

sahib, I made them myself!" And when I asked
for an explanation, how it came that the congregation
had joined so heartily in the singing, I found tliat
Joseph had selected native tunes, and having made
verses that would go to them, he had drilled the
people two or three evenings in advance of the
" dedication " Sabbath, and hence the results that so
surprised me.

I did not then know what value there was in the
effort, or what significance it bore to the future ; but
I have lived long enough to see that it meant more
than I then supposed. In subsequent years, when
the hhajan style of hymns came into such favor in
our mission, and native music was adapted, and their
singing became so much more enthusiastic than our
foreign hymns and tunes could be to them, my mind
went gratefully back to this, the first manifestation
of both, and I had good reason to appreciate the effort
made by Joseph. There must have been both merit
and originality in that instance beyond what I could
imderstand : for last year, when I reached Bareilly,
one of the first persons to accost me was a man of
noble presence, wlio said, " O, sahib, how grateful I
am that when I was a little fellow, running wild
about these streets, you noticed me, and insisted that
my fatlier must send me to school that I might obtain
an education ! " I looked up inquiringly, and they
said, " Why, this is Brother Isaac Fieldbrave, the son
of Joseph, your old helper." So here I found the

300 From Boston to Bareilly.

poetic talent of the father resting, with large increase,
upon the worthy son, who is to-day "the sweet singer"
of onr India Israel, and author already of nearly fifty
uf the hymns in our India Hymnal. He is an or-
dained elder in our Conference, and one of the most
devoted and successful revivalists that we have in
that land.

In due time the missionaries arrived, and were com-
fortably settled in their new homes, and the entire
machinery of our mission was soon in good running
order. But our little congregations were sadly lack-
ing in the woman element, and we had no female
agency to work in either school or zenana. The
prospect was not encouraging. Still the hope born
in my heart in the Dewanee-Khass remained, and
its fruition was awaited with earnest expectation.
Thinking I might push matters somewhat, I wrote
and pleaded with Dr. Durbin to send me two lady
missionaries, that we might try, without further de-
lay, what could be done. He kindly granted the
request, and they came. But we found that little
could be effected then in that line of work. I was
premature in the effort. Circumstances were not
ready. No zenana home was open to them, and the
people ridiculed our first efforts to establish girls'
schools in Bareilly. So we had to " trust in the Lord
and wait patiently for him," assured that though his
"hour had not yet come," it would come, and we.
should see and rejoice in it.

From Boston to Bareilly. 301

Let us trace the furtlier links in that divine chain
of events which our God was meanwhile preparing,
and which were, ere long, to be united together so
timely and effectually that the divine plan would
be fully developed. I have, in the last chapter,
referred to the other links already prepared : the
suggestion and the letter in the '* Dewanee-Khass,"
and the education dispatch of Sir Charles Wood.
Here were the preliminary and foundation facts on
which all subsequent and cognate links were sus-
pended. One was the State, converted, at last, from
its subservience to caste, and from its indifference to
the danger arising from the deep ignorance of the
masses under its rule. The other was, the Church
of Christ, especially its feminine portion, called by
the special grace of God to come to his aid for the
enlightenment and redemption of their sisterhood in
India, whom they alone could reach. The State
stood ready, as soon as they came and had pre-
pared a suitable native agency, to meet with liberal
hand one half of the entire expense of their educa-
tional efforts in schools and orphanages : it was '' the
earth helping the woman," under the providence of
the Almighty. In tlie meantime God was guiding
us, so tliat, wlien the events transpired where tlie
opportunity which we were to utilize sliould come
within our reach, we might be wise to " discern the
signs of the times," and fulfill the duty expected of
us. Tlie good-will of the government in India, the

302 From Boston to Bareilly.

sanction of tlie home authorities, and our Missionary
Society, the sympathy of tlie ladies of our Church,
and the money to make our first efforts, were already
secured and in our hand. We were ready and wait-
ing for the coming events, now so near.

5. The inevitable famine appeared, and great
numbers sunk under its pressure ere the government
was able to institute measures of relief. JS^o rail-
roads, no roads of any kind then, in or through the
districts on which the infliction fell, by which help
and succor could be hurried up for relief. But the
government did what it could to mitigate the blow
that had fallen upon the poor people. The native
police were sent out through the villages to succor
the living and to bury the dead. Even Hindu hu-
manity led the poor parents to favor the children with
the last morsel available. So that, in many cases,
the children alone were found alive. The accounts
of the misery that reached us were dreadful. As
soon as possible the wretched little ones were brought
into Moradabad, one of our mission stations, where
the authorities took temporary care of them until
some arrangements would be developed to take them
off their hands. I went to see them, and never be-
fore witnessed such wretchedness as they exhibited.
But 1 felt assured that Christian kindness and educa-
tion, and above all the Gospel of Christ, could work
miracles among even these wretched starving chil-
dren.

From Boston to Bareilly. 303

6. I made my offer to tlie government to take up
and adopt about one hundred and fifty of each sex.
Of course they were much pleased to be relieved of
the care of so many of them, and promised to render
us every aid in their power in the burden which we
were assuming. I secured the hearty sympathy of
nearly all the members of the mission in this effort.
There were one or two timid ones who doubted the
prudence of our course in taking such a heavy charge
upon our hands. One of them remarked one day,
"Brother Butler, what will you do with all those
children ? You will bankrupt the mission, most
surely." I could only reply, " The Lord will pro-
vide ; wait and see." If that person had included
the future more fully in his view, or had prayed as
long and earnestly over this question of the number
to be taken as I had done, he would have felt as
the rest of us did, and have even regretted that we
could not take a larger number. Yet, even that
doubting one learned afterward to rejoice with us in
the glad results.

Taking my faithful helper, Joseph, w^itli me, I
went over to Moradabad to select the children, but
after a day or two I learned, to my astonishment,
that I had some further difficulties to overcome ere
I obtained them. I found the English magistrate
(who shall be nameless here) had no sympathy what-
ever with our object. Whether this man's opposition
arose from disHke to Christianity itself, or to our

304 From Boston to Bakeilly.

Methodist form of it, I cannot say; but I soon
learned that he had made np his mind to obstruct us
as far as he dared without involving himself with the
government, whose sanction I had secured. He gave
as a reason for his resistance to their adoption by a
Christian mission, that he objected to their being
brought up in a faith opposed to that of their
dead parents. But I drew his attention to the fact
that the co-rehgionists of their parents liad shown no
interest in taking tliem np and providing for them^
but left them and the rest in their misery. We had
come forward, and were ready to do what they would
not do ; but that we took them on our own condi-
tions, which were, to educate tliem, not to be heathen,
but to be Christians. His Hindu and Mohammedan
friends could have as many as they chose (for there
were hundreds left, and waiting for some one to have
compassion upon them), and they could then bring
them up as they should prefer. Yet they did not move
a linger for the relief of, nor ask for, any of them ;
they had other motives in view, and were at work
upon them. I could not suspect how busy the devil
was meanwhile trying to head me off, and that he
was making use of this man for his purposes; but,
no doubt, he well knew what our effort meant to him,
and his dark dominion over the valley of the Ganges,
and was resolved that we should be defeated, though
the means involved the ruin, body and soul, of these
poor girls whom we were so anxious to save !

Fkom Boston to Bareilly. 305

It was evident that I was going to liave a struggle
with this unworthy "Christian" for my share of
these poor children. I knew I could have his resist-
ance overruled by making an appeal to the govern-
ment, but that was not desirable if it could be
avoided. So I returned to Bareilly to see what
could be done before bringing matters to an issue,
thbugh apprehending disadvantage from the delay.
Taking the case to the Lord in prayer, I ini23lored his
help in this emergency, that he might " undertake
for us." I felt sure that, whatever the resistance
was, or might mean, that he w^ould not allow our
]ioj)es to be dashed to the ground, but would place
this precious charge in . our hands, and ultimately
make them the help and blessing to our work in the
future for which I had so earnestly hoped and
prayed. But I soon learned that waiting would not
brino^ them — a struor^le for them was inevitable, and
that for more reasons than we then knew or even
feared, anxious though our own forebodings were. I
began to realize that I should once more have to face
the devil in his den in my eiforts to preserve these
children from his grasp. Alas, I dreamed not that
they were already in his clutches, and that he, " like a
Hon greedy of his prey," was exulting over his suc-
cess ! Still they were not absolutely his. Even from
the jaws of Satan poor fainting souls may be rescued !
Glorious indeed is the divine attribute of power. I

remembered that He was "the strong God," "the
20

306 Fkom Boston to Baeeilly.

Miglitj One of Jacob," and to liim I went with an
agonized heart (for I was growing very apprehensive),
pleading for those little ones, whom I felt were in great
danger, and that he alone could rescue them. How
the word of God was adapted to our relief, as though
given by his own inspiration for the very case in hand :
'' Thus saith the Lord, Even the captives of the mighty
shall be taken away, and the prey of the terrible shall
be delivei-ed : for I will contend with him that con-
tendeth with thee, and I will save tliy children !"

Within a few days came the glad news that the
opposing magistrate was unexpectedly removed to
another station, and his successor was hourly looked
for. I waited till the arrival of the new magistrate
was reported, and then went over again to Morada-
bad to see him. With an anxious heart I approached
his office. He received me kindly. His gentle and
manly looks encouraged me to believe that I should
find sympathy for my object. He listened to my
story, and, as I gave the facts, liis fine countenance
changed into indignant amazement, and he said, " O,
how could any man witli a Christian name and a
white face put a barrier in the way of such an object
as yours ! You shall have the children. Where are
they ? " I could not tell. He turned to his native
subordinates, and, in a tone that alarmed them, re-
peated his question: "Where are those children
which this gentleman has selected ? " They shrugged
their shoulders, and said, " Sahib, we don't know."

From Boston to Bareilly. 307

But they were trembling. They saw tliat they had
to do with a man with whom they dare not trifle.
Their unity in this wrong melted away in a moment,
and each began to clear himself of complicity in the
terrible facts, till the accountability was brought
liome to the responsible party ; and a demand that
they should be promptly restored and surrendered
had to be at once given. Then was revealed the
horrible crime which one or two of the Mohammedan
officials of that court had arranged to perpetrate.
Taking advantage of the former magistrate's refusal,
and assuming that I would not earnestly push my
claim, they had hidden the girls, not to bring them up
in tlieir ancestral faith (for that was Hinduism), nor
even to snatch them out of the hands of Christianity ;
but for tlie devilish purpose of having them brought
up to a life of infamy ! It is hard to believe that there
could exist creatures in human forui capable of tak-
ing these orphans in their utter wretcliedness to sink
them down to a doom like this ! We are told, that
in the presence of the immaculate Christ men and
demons had to stand confessed in tlieir tnie charac-
ter. We read of some who are described thus, " A
man who had a spirit of an unclean devil" in him !
Now, how much above this lowest of all degradation
— this compound of beast and devil — were the men
who could for such a purpose deliberately sink these
poor girls into the "deep damnation" of a life of
shame ! It is supposable that there may be demons

308 Fjrom Boston to Babeilly.

who are not degraded enough to perpetrate such
deeds as these. What is said by the poet of the fear-
ful guilt of suicides — who rush uncalled into the
divine presence — may be true in hell of human
monsters of this class, that —

" The common damned shun their society,
And look upon themselves as fiends less foul."

Often since have I hoped that it might be possible
to believe the case was not so dreadful. I have but
seldom referred to it, and never before wrote out the
facts. Those responsible are probably no longer
among the living. They liave passed into eternity ;
but, these things being so, what a "judgment to
come " awaits them there ! My motive in giving the
facts now will be manifest farther on in the narra-
tive, although my readers will, no doubt, anticipate
me in this, as exhibiting the " depth of mercy "
which was illustrated in the rescue and saving of
these poor but precious girls — saved, too, for such
a different destiny — and also to show how much
stronger is God than Satan and all his emissaries, no
matter how sure and fortified they may be in their
policy and efforts !

I hope that magistrate has no responsibility to
meet in " the day when the secrets of all hearts shall
be disclosed," for the fearful deeds of his subordi-
nates. But he certainly will have to answer for the
gratification he gave those Mohammedans, in refus-
ing to give up the children to me, as well as for the

From Boston to Bareilly. 309

opportunity whicli lie placed in their power when ho
left those girls at their mercy on his departure. He
imitated another magistrate, with whom he will have
to stand at that awful bar of judgment, of whom it is
written, that " Felix, willing to show the Jews a
pleasure, left Paul bound," to meet a fate he did not
deserve. Those girls were promptly recovered, to
the last one, and sent, at the expense of somebody
(not at our expense, certainly), right off to Bareilly ;
BO that, within the week, Joseph and myself had the
joy of receiving them all. How mad the devil must
have been that day ! And how truly were the Script-
ures illustrated here, " Of some have compassion, mak-
ing a difference : and others save with fear, pulling
them out of the fire ; hating even the garments spot-
ted by the flesh ! "

But how can I adequately describe these poor
girls as they were set down at our door that day?
They were sent in large carts, each containing twenty
girls. Tlie oldest was probably twelve or thirteen
years, the youngest a mere baby ; but three fourths
of til em were under eleven years of age. Each
driver had his list for his load. He lifted out the
largest one first, and laid her down ; then the rest,
placing them around her, as if building them into a
bee-hive shape. Then the heaps were counted and
the signature affixed to each list, and the carts moved
off. It made the tears come to look at these deso-
late little piles of humanity, cuddling up to each

310 From Boston to Bareilly.

other, as though trying to hide themselves from the
view of those white ladies and gentlemen that looked
at them so seriously. They were all untidy, and
their countenances bore the trace of the hunger
through which they had passed. Indeed, one of
them died on the way over from Moradabad, and w^e
had to lift the little dead body out of the cart and
bury it at once. Three or four others also were so
far gone that we could not restore them. They, too,
lie in our little cemetery. The rest we were able to
save. The aspect was sad. No joy of childhood on
any face, only a look of doubt and fear instead ; as if
they were wondering what was going to happen to
them, or whether we, who surveyed these groups,
were to be kind to them or not. If I only had a
'photograph of them, as they looked that day^ to place
side by side with the photographs we have of them
as they now appear, it ought to be enough to induce
even an infidel (having any genuine philanthropy
left in him) to ask the privilege of becoming a regu-
lar subscriber to the missionary society which could,
and did, do work like this, in saving and transform-
ing such specimens of wretched humanity into the
happy, cleanly, cultivated w^omen, w^hose tears of
grateful joy welcomed us back again, twenty-four
years after, into Lucknow and Bareilly !

But, they were girls, and the glad thought was
that they were now at last our own, to save and
train and elevate, so that they might rise to be happy

From Boston to Bareilly. 311

in themselves, and a blessing to their country forever.
We accepted them as a trust from God, as a response
to our long and prayerful desire in the work that we
had to do for him in India. How these hopes were
justified, and even exceeded, will hereafter appear.
All hands were soon at work in loving labor, to
change the sad aspect of things. Our good ladies and
their native helpers, before the sun went down, had
accomplished a most delightful transformation.
Bodies " washed in pure water," clean clothing, and a
hearty meal of wholesome food, banished the gloomy
looks, and brought out the first smiles we saw on
those little faces. They began to realize what kind
hearts and hands were now around them. And, then,
their minds were, of course, in as necessitous a condi-
tion as their poor bodies. Not one of all this group
could read, or write her own name. A great work
had to be done for the mind as well as for the body.
These children being utterly without culture, and mor-
ally " not knowing their right hand from their left,"
had to be carefully taught the difference between
good and evil, and, then, for a lengtliened season,
they had to be as patiently borne witli to help them
to do, and continue to follow, after the things which
made for their peace and purity. It was a great
experiment that we had undertaken, to lift this
mass of female humanity, every item of it, dark and
degraded in body, soul, and spirit, up to health, to
purity, to intelligence, and to God. How fully the

312 From Boston to Bareillt.

laborious years of toil and self-sacrifice bestowed on
tliem liave been rewarded by the results, will be
shown by tlie statistics I am soon to quote.

Notwithstanding the prudence with which I tried
to manage this painful business the facts got out, and
it would have made that magistrate's ears tingle
could he have heard some things said of him by the
other English gentlemen, and especially by their la-
dies. Even upright heathen condemned his unwor-
thy action. So it was no surprise to me, on returning
to India, just after he left it forever, to find that his
official career had closed under a cloud. It is not
men like him that God honors with the love and re-
spect of the good and benevolent, devoted to the wel-
fare of those around them. A very different class of
thought was raised in my mind as I looked so gladly
upon those happy groups of women whom he had
tried to hinder me from saving. Thank God ! in de-
spite of him they were saved, and they are there to-
day, a precious band of Christian women, while he
that would have hindered me is far away !

About the time that these difficulties had to be
faced another magistrate at the next station (Bij-
nour) chose to make himself unpleasant to us ; stand-
ing in the way of our obtaining the land we needed
for our mission-house and place of worship in that
city. But this was only sectarian littleness. We
were not Episcopalians, and, therefore, could have no
claim on his sympathy ; not only so, he was weak-

From Boston to Baeeilly. 313

minded enough to try to hinder us because we be-
longed to those " insigniiicant Methodists." He
could not even be civil. But, as he was " king in
Bij.nour," he assumed that we sliould have to submit
to his will, and remain without a head-quarters for
our mission there. This man knew so little of exist-
ing Christianity, — he did not understand that we
were a Church, and not only a Church, but also the
largest voluntary Church in Christendom. Yet he
affected to look down upon us. Poor man ! When
I encountered a person of this class (though, I am
thankful to say, there were very few such to en-
counter) I never turned aside, nor altered my plans
on his account. I went on, and made all my ar-
rangements, and quietly waited (not on them, but) on
God to remove the obstruction, whatever it might be ;
and it was always done. I never failed to found our
missions in the localities where I had been led to de-
cide to place them. We occupy to-day every strate-
gic point which I selected twenty-five years ago.

But no credit to me for this. I had merely sense
and grace enough to see that those who closely fol-
lowed the Divine guidance should not be disap-
pointed. No matter about the difficulties in the way ;
God would look after them. I had only to "wait
patiently for him," and he would not only guide, but
also give me the desire of my heart. How many diffi-
culties, large and small, this simple trust carried me
through !

314 From Boston to Bareilly.

But others noted the results, and after awhile I
had no trouble. I received all I wanted or asked for,
and that, too, generally with much good-will and kind-
ness. Time brings explanations of many tilings.

Last year, in India, one of my old associates asked
me:

" Brother Butler, do you know what the English
officials used to say about you when you were
here?^'

" ]S"o ; what did they say ? "

" "Why, it became a sort of accepted conclusion
among them to remark, when your name came up,
* Well now, I tell you, if Dr. Butler, the missionary,
comes round to ask you to do something to help that
mission of his, I advise you to let him have it ; don't
refuse, for, if you do, you will either be removed
elsewhere, or else you will get sick and have to ap-
ply for furlough. At least, let him and his work
alone.' Then A., B., and C, would be quoted as illus-
trations of the fact ! "

Certainly the case of Mr. P. at Bijnour was very
much in point. He resisted our entrance there, and
our obtaining land for the mission, even though the
man who owned it was willing and anxious to sell to
us. Yet Mr. P. set himself deliberately to hinder
our work. But I put the matter into the Lord's
hands and waited. Illness did soon lay hold on Mr.
P., medical examination ordered him away to sea,
and he was hurried off, to catch the next mail

. From Boston to Bareilly. 315

steamer from Calcutta. His successor in office proved
to be a very different sort of person, giving us both
sympathy and help. The land was soon bought, the
mission-house and place of worship erected; and
there they both were when Mr. P. returned from
England, the following year, standing on the other
side of the road right opposite his own residence !
It is due to him to say that, after he got over his
amazement, he brought his mind to the circumstances,
and henceforth showed us considerable deference.
But these were the exceptions : the usual rule with
these generous English people, was hearty apprecia-
tion and liberal help toward our new mission — and
truly the pious among them (and there were many
such) rose above all denominational narrowness and
showed, in their catholicity of feeling, that tliey
could fully appreciate Christian brethren who were
not of their Church, and that they cordially sympa-
thized in the sentiment,

" Sectarian littleness disdain,
Not in the order of each vein
Do purest gems agree."

We lost nothing by any contrary manifestation on
the part of those who were weak enough to indulge it.
It was agreed by the government, as our good
friend Mr. Eeid had arranged, that we should have
the " Grant in Aid " for our Orphanages and Schools.
The grant for the Orphanages was to be continued ten
years, and then to cease, as by that time it was ex-

316 Fkom Boston to Bakeilly.

pected tliat tlie institution would expend itself ; and
the one hundred and fifty children of each sex would
have been educated, and have gone forth to whatever
duties of life might open to them. But, evidently,
this was not the divine purpose concerning these
institutions. The Lord knew that for a great duty
like ours — with twenty millions of souls around us,
having only us to look to for the light and teaching of
salvation — that one hundred and fifty boys and as
many girls could not supply one tenth the native
agents that such a great work would I'equire. Twenty
millions of souls is an immense parish. A thousand
boys and as many girls, even if fifty per cent, of their
number became efiicient preachers and teachers,
would only yield one agent for every twenty thou-
sand souls in that valley.

The continuation of these Orphanages became nec-
essary for the work which God had called us to
do for him, and he provided for that continuance by
furnishing the children and leading the government
there and the Church at home to perpetuate their
assistance until a more adequate agency was pro-
vided. This was accomplished in India by the
Divine blessing which rested upon tliose who had
charge of the institutions, so that they gained such a
cliaracter for efficiency and benevolence among both
English and natives, that destitute children were sent to
them from all the region round. On inquiring of the
government what we were to do as to the support of

Fkom Boston to Bareilly. 317

these additional children wliich were sent to us by the
magistrates and others, we were kindly told that we
might add their names also to the list for which we
drew the monthly "grants in aid." Thus, on the ex-
piration of the ten years, the valuable help continued
riglit on as usual, and still continues, though more
than twice ten years have passed over. So also the
help and sympathy of the Church at home have been
uninterrupted ; and accordingly both of the Orphan-
ages have gone on with their beneficent work, and for
twenty years we have been graduating classes of those
precious youth of both sexes, and meeting the wants
of our mission in the suitable agents which the spread-
ing work requires. And, now, the college conies in
to meet the great necessity of that higher culture
which is imperatively demanded, and which is not
only to give us a trained native ministry, but also en-
able us to dispense entirely with any heathen assist-
ance in our schools ; so that all our helpers of any
class will soon be Christians only. The numerical
statistics of these institutions will enable my readers
to fully appreciate the great value to our cause of
these providential facts, which the good hand of God
concentrated here for our help in the work that we
had to accomplish for him.

What all this amounts to now, and what it implies
for the future of that work, will be seen a few pages
farther on. The wisdom of God was manifested in
thus early placing these children in our hands, and in

318 From Boston to Bakeilly.

providing the means necessary for their support and
training, while he was preparing meanwhile the other
links of that chain of mercy with which they were to
be united so soon as they had been prepared for the
work that they were to perform. The first hundred
and fifty girls all passed through the Orphanage ; but
quietly God supplied their places, and even doubled
the number, so that we have to-day over two hun-
dred and eighty girls under training for the coming
future. Perhaps none of our missionaries will have
higher honor and greater joy in the presence of our
Lord than will those who have so faithfully and
patiently labored for the welfare and salvation of these
children. Brother and Sister Thomas, Sister Fanny
Sparkes, Brother and Sister Johnson, and Brother
and Sister Bare, will, no doubt, be glad forever for
what God enabled them to do in the preparation of
this native agency for the redemption of the Gangetic
valley. Leaving them thus employed, let us try to
trace the other aspects of the Divine plan which were
to concur with this when all had been made ready
for the requisite union and action.

7. In addition to the important movements already
traced, it was also indispensable, in order to render
them effective, that the old and wicked prejudice
against female education should pass away, after its
lengthened tyranny of thousands of years, and that
a new public sentiment in favor of the instruction of
women should be created in India. Even men like

From Boston to Baeeilly. 319

Dr. Duff could not forecast how this wonderful revo-
lution in public opinion could be brought about, or
liow the Brahminical resistance to any change could
be overborne. But God knew, and was working
on toward that result in compassion for the benighted
women in those dreary homes of ignorance and
gloom. Sir Charles Wood's educational enactment,
and its generous provisions of assistance for teaching,
irrespective of sex or creed, was stirring the hearts of
men, leading them to think and feel, till they were
beginning to realize the shame that ignorance had
fastened on themselves, their families, and tlieir na-
tive land. This thought, under the divine providence,
was working so powerfully in the minds of those who
lead native opinion, that they were becoming ready
for a change, and many of them were glad to accept
any strong and reasonable excuse to cast off the fet-
ters that had so long bound them all.

Yet they were individually timid about taking the
initiative. If they could move together they would
go into the innovation. But to do this required a
leadership, that was far beyond their courage. What
was just then needed was an imperial power — a voice
that could speak and be heard all over India, com-
mending the great change and urging it upon them
as a duty. God had that voice ready. The honored
man, to whom was given to speak the first and effect-
ive utterance for woman's enlightenment was Lord
Lawrence. And beyond what eveij he was conscious

320 From Boston to Bareilly.

of, were to be tlie power and influence of tliose few
words, which no other governor-general had ventured
to utter — for they had all ignored woman, as a creature
not to be named or known, and who had no claim
wdiatever upon the consideration of the governing
power. But this great viceroy, who had already
commended the subject to the consideration of prom-
inent individuals among them, resolved to give it
public indorsement, and took his opportunity at the
grand durbar, in Lahore, on the 18th of October,
1864. Before that brilliant assembly of chiefs and
princes he laid down the obligations which their posi-
tion involved for their country's welfare, by educa-
tion and good administration, and then closed with
these emphatic words, " To this end I urge you to
instruct your sons, and even your daughter sP Those
words rang over India, and were repeated by him in
other durbars. Their influence was immense. The
viceroy had indorsed yi'??2<zZ6 education, and the En-
glish government had provided /z/tk^^ for its general
establishment.

The position had become irresistible, a new public
sentiment was originated which was going to carry all
before it. It is to-day omnipotent in India. Not a
*^ dog moves his tongue " against it, from Cape Com-
orin to the Himalayas. Even the sullen Brahmins are
silent, and dare not resist it. At first there may have
been a measure of that sycophancy which is character-
istic of Oriental submission to the expressed " Hook-

From Boston to Bareilly. SUl

urn of the Sirkar," as the government behest is called.
But long since their enlightened judgments have ap-
proved the daring innovation, and the zeal of many of
them (even to the extent of devoting large portions of
their own revenues to help on the cause of fe-
male education) will be shown hereafter. Honored
be tlie memory of the great Christian viceroy, w^ho,
w^lien ''darkness was upon the face of the deep" of
India's homes and India's w^omen, had the godlike
courage to stand forth and say, " Let there be light ! "
His name will yet be gratefully entwined by the
daughters of Hindustan with those of the worthies
who abolished female infanticide and terminated the
suttee. To such a man, and the results of his admin-
istration, " the last w^ords of David " (recorded in
2 Bam. xxiii, 3, 4) might well be applied, as de-
scriptive of such a governor as India had in Lord
Lawrence — and they ought to be descriptive of every
man elevated to rule — especially in a land like Amer-
ica, where we have free choice and elect our own
governors: "The God of Israel said . . . He that
ruleth over men must be just, ruling in the fear of
God. And he shall be as the light of the morning,
when the sun riseth, even a morning without clouds ;
as the tender grass springing out of the earth by
clear shining after rain." Such a ruler of men was
this governor-general, and the memory of his kind is
blessed in India, as in every land favored with such

godlike administrations. The w^orld is weary, the
21

322 From Boston to Bareilly.

Chiircli disgraced, and God dishonored bj the eleva-
tion of the wicked to rule over men anywhere. But
it is simply shameful, and a denial of God's authorily,
to elect sinners to rule over a Christian people.

Well was it for woman and tlie cause of her educa-
tion that it could truly be said of Lawrence, " Thou
art come to the kingdom for such a time as this."
There was one who closely followed him in that seat
of power who, had the great work not been done be-
fore he came, would, I fear, have utterly ignored it,
and the opportunity might have been lost for a gen-
eration to come. But when God's hour of mercy
arrived, and the other favoring circumstances were in
concurrence, the man was there too, as God's honored
agent, to give effect to the benevolent purpose of the
Almighty.

8. There was a suddenness in this amazing change
that surprised us all ; and as the new situation com-
mended itself so extensively to the judgment of every
one who desired to see the women of India elevated,
a great difficulty began to develop itself — one that
was so serious that some feared and became anxious
lest the benevolent intentions of the government
should be shipwrecked upon it. There arose an ap-
prehension that they had created a demand beyond
their ability to supply it, and that the whole of thoj
precious prospect was in danger of being lost ! The
government was asked by the nobles, who had ac-
cepted the proposition of educating the ladies of

From Boston to Bareillt. 323

their families, who was to give the education which
they had consented to accept? They reminded the
government it could not be received from any agency
but a female one. No man could enter those zenana
homes, even to save life, and if education was to en-
ter there a woman must bring it. Where were the
educated w^omen to be found to do this work ? The
question puzzled the government. In fact, they had
not realized this difficulty or how it w^as to be met,
and they were at a loss for a proper answer. They
could only reply that they would give tlie question
their earnest consideration, and see wiiat could be
done to meet the demand which they had created.
The proposition was discussed to advertise for teach-
ers in England, who would go out to India, learn the
language, and give themselves to this work for a series
of years. I suppose the effort was made, but I have
yet to leani that it was responded to, or that any such
teachers went out to impart secular instruction.
Worldly women could not be induced to go to In-
dia, endure the climate, learn the language, and de-
vote their lives to work of this kind, merely under
the lure of a good salar}^, and a pension after so many
years of toil — for such the Indian government gives
to all its servants. Had the government been shut
up to secular women, moved by secular motives, then
Lord Lawrence's generous hopes must have largely
failed, and Sir Charles Wood's education measure
been of little worth in India. There was a pause

324 From Boston to Bareillt.

here, and men waited to see what could be done to
meet the emergency.

9. And now, when so much needed, came forth the
last of these golden links to draw together and vital-
ize all the others, combining them in a vast aggre-
gate of good, the effects of which will live forever. We
read that, " When the fullness of the time was come,
God sent forth his Son, made of a woman, made under
the law, to redeem them that were under the law, that
we might receive the adoption of sons ; " so, as 1869
approached, and the success of the great hope that
had been awakened in the heart of India for the en-
lightenment of one sixth of all the women on earth
(hidden away in the secluded homes of that land), as
well as for women in all unevangelized climes, God
revealed the agency that he had in reserve to meet
the emergency and to complete his plan. The Wom-
an^ s Foreign Missionary Societies were organized ;
organized " in the fullness of time," when the zenana
doors were at last opening, when the government was
ready to welcome them gladly, when the appropriate
native female agency required had been made ready
to help them, when the requisite funds were available
for their schools and orphanages, and when the field
was all their own and every obstacle had been re-
moved out of the way of their work and usefulness ;
then they came, with loving hearts and gentle hands,
to render this new and peculiar service which they
alone could accomplish.

From Boston to Bareilly. 325

How timely it was all arranged ! Had they come
earlier the value of their work could not have been
so evident as it was when it became so manifest that
they would do this service for their sisterhood in
India — not for secular gain, but for love — "the love
of Christ, which passeth knowledge." Their disinter-
ested devotion carried with it a power for good which
told at once and wonderfully with the hearts which
they were to benefit. And again, had they come
earlier, the requisite agency of educated girls to aid
them, and whose labors they were to direct (thus
multiplying their own power and usefulness), would
not have been ready for them. How wonderfully
each portion of the divine plan fitted to the others,
and what an important part that female Orphanage
was to bear in the great work, may be illustrated in
a single fact. Miss Clara Swain was the first female
physician sent by any ladies' society to the East.
There was great interest excited in Bareilly by the
announcement of her coming. Many ladies in its
zenana homes, languishing for the help which her
healing art would afford them, impatiently await-
ed her arrival. It was wonderful to those heathen
women that she should leave her home and native
land and cross the world to bring health and healing
to them; and all this, not for gain or worldly motive,
but for love and good- will. They had never heard
or imagined any thing so gracious and disinterested
as this was. At length she arrived, but felt sad over

326 From Boston to Bareilly.

the tlioiiglit that she should have so long to wait ere
she could begin her benevolent work in their homes
of suffering, for want of the language. It seemed as
though two years must elapse ere she could acquire
that and be able to commence her practice. But
how delighted she was to be told by Mrs. Thomas
that she need not delay one day in responding to the
eager calls for her help. Several of the graduating
class in the Girls' Orphanage had been trained in a
knowledge of the English language, and she had only
to select the girl she preferred from among them who
would thus become her companion and interpreter,
and at once commence her blessed work. This she
did, and so, only a few hours after her arrival in Ba-
reilly she was fulfilling her mission as a medical lady
in those zenana homes.

The fact was so suggestive that she not only went
on with her practice, but also took ^ve members of
that class and commenced a course of medical instruc-
tion with them that in three years enabled her to offer
the class for the consideration of the government au-
thorities, who had them examined, and they were
voted license to practice as medical women. Another
class was trained by Dr. Humphrey, and yet another
by Dr. Dease. So that about eighteen of our girls
have already been qualified as medical practitioners.
The value of this single fact, as a result of that Or-
phanage, in such a land (where a lady would rather
die than permit a male physician to enter her pres-

From Boston to Bareilly. 32 T

ence), will be appreciated by my readers, and calls for
most devout gratitude to Him, whose blessed sugges-
tion originated that institution, and who had in view
all the good, temporal and spiritual, that it was capa-
ble of accomplishing for the millions around them.

High and low, rich and poor alike, have been led
to appreciate the disinterested devotion illustrated
here. What thousands of suffering women have been
helped by the dispensary and the hospital there estab-
lished we shall know w^hen the report is presented.
The highest testimony to its value and effectiveness
was given when the Nawab of Rampore, voluntarily
and unasked, presented his Bareilly palace and
grounds a gift to our mission, in order to furnish to
Hiss Swain a woman's hospital, adequate in conveni-
ence and extent for the work she was doing for his
countrywomen.

But here we must pause, for we are approaching
Bareilly in that railway train from Lucknow. All
these reflections, and many more which centered
there, had been occupying our thoughts during the
five hours that we rushed on toward it. Of course the
Theological Seminary, and Training School as well,
came in for their share of remembrance, as our ador-
ing gratitude ascended to God for what we were
about to see in such effectiveness ; while, in tender
reminiscence, there rose up that pathetic fact of Ma-
ria's martyrdom and what had come of it. The very
ground where she resided I had secured by purchase

328 Fkom Boston to Bakeilly.

when Havelock's victories enabled me to return to
Bareilly. The Female Orphanage of our Church stands
on the site of her home and the little garden around
it. So that on the very ground where she used to tread,
and where she so often knelt to pray for the coming of
the Gospel to her country, hundreds of Christian girls
have been raised up to aid the work she loved so well.

And this is but the beginning. That the blood of
His martyrs has been the seed of his Church is true
in this case, also, and with a wonderful emphasis.
This humble and gentle girl, of whom Bareilly was
not worthy, did not die in vain. She was inheritor
of the promise, that "• the little one shall become a
thousand." God is guaranteeing the literal fulfillment
of the prediction ; for already more than one fourth
of that number of her race and sex have there become
the followers of her Saviour — a goodly company of
whom, as we shall learn a few pages farther on, are
now fully employed in the promotion of the blessed
cause to which she was willing to give her service,
but had, instead, to give her life ! But, if this is the
result reached at the end of the first quarter of a
century, can there be reasonable doubt that, ere the
second quarter closes, the predicted " thousand " will
not only be reached, but will " overflow with riglit-
eousness," in a consummation of glorious power
through all that valley ?

Such were the thoughts which filled our souls and
banished sleep during those midnight hours as we swept

From Boston to Bareilly. 329

tlirongh the towns and villages of that Gangetic Yalley,
on our way from Lucknow to Bareilly. The clear silver
light of the moon enabled us to realize where we were
at every stopping-place, and it was delightful to re-
alize how many of them had already the Methodist
pastor, and a place of worship and school established,
with a little body of Christian believers, letting their
light shine amid the deep darkness of a venerable
and popular idolatry. When I left India, eighteen
years ago, only nine of the larger cities had been oc-
cupied, and about as many more of the intervening
places. But now, such has been the divine blessing
on the toil of our missionaries, I find nearly all the
important towns are linked in with the large cities,
and our Methodism has a standing in not less than
one hundred and fifty towns and cities within the
bounds of the I^orth India Conference ; a steady gain
of more than seven points every year since the or-
ganization of the mission. It would not be easy to
find a parallel to such extension in any single mis-
sion, even in this age of progress. To God be all the
glory !

For nearly five glorious hours that night sleep was
out of the question. We were approaching Bareilly,
and our poor hearts were thrilling with the thought
how much the light of the next day would disclose
to our delighted vision ! We had crossed the world
to reach this blessed center, and now it was close at
hand — only an hour more — for some gong had just

330 Feom Boston to Bareilly.

struck " two o'clock." But just here poor tired nature
began to give out, and imperatively demanded a short
nap. As the irresistible drowsiness crept over me,
the last thought was, '' How shall I manage about
our luggage? I understand it is a full mile from
the station to the mission. We can easily walk that
distance in the lovely moonlight if there is only some
way by which the luggage can come along." We
had not dreamed of any reception, especially in the
middle of the night ; so, with this little anxiety I sank
off into a weary doze, which seemed not to have lasted
more than ten minutes, when it was suddenly broken
by the whistle of the engine ; and rising to my feet,
I knew we were approaching Bareilly. Immediately
the train ran rapidly into the siding, and the end of
the platform was reached — when, lo ! something that
seemed like a white wall, about five feet high, stood on
the outer edge, and before I could recover my sleepy
surprise that they should put a wall there to keep
people from landing, " the wall " began to show
streaks up and down, and as the rapid movement be-
came more controlled, the " streaks " defined them-
selves into a row of girls, in their usual white raiment,
extending from one end of the platform to the other.
It was our dear orphan girls — all of the two hundred
and eighty that were old enough and could walk so
far and keep awake so long — who had requested Miss
Fanny Sparkes to allow them to come up to meet"
and welcome once more to Bareilly '' The Father and

From Boston to Barp:illy. 331

Mother of the Mission ! " Behind the girls stood tlie
theological students, the missionary families, and a
number of the members of the Church. In front
of all stood Miss Sparkes, and the moment they saw
,our faces, and realized that we were in the train, there
rose, to the tune of " Old Hundred/' the doxology, in
their own language :

" Tin ek Khuda jo la-mafriiq
Hamd us ki-karo sab makliluq
Asmanio, zamiuio!
Bap, Bete, Riih ki hamd karo I "

Not till we are hailed by the \raiting ones on
" the golden strand," shall we again behold any thing
as blessed as was that group of welcome, so radiant in
the lovely moonlight, with their doxology of joy
rising upon the night air to heaven !

How small, how formal and fleeting, seemed any
of the honors that this world confers compared with
this simple, hearty, and holy welcome at Bareilly !
Onr fellow-passengers woke up, and asked, in amaze-
ment, " What does all this mean ? A concrre^ation
at a station in the middle of the night singing the
Christian doxology ! " And they gazed out upon the
hallowed scene with increasing surprise. But we
had no time to answer their inquiries. We were too
deeply engaged trying to have the door opened and
get out among that company, whose loving hands and
hearts were so eager to hail and welcome us 1 No
wonder Mrs. Butler, after enthusiastically embracing

332 From Boston to Bakeilly.

that long line of precious girls, stood still and cried
for excess of joy and gratitude. It was all such a
contrast to the days gone by, when she and others, in
distress of soul, made those earnest efforts to reach
and teach even half a .dozen girls in this city, and*
could not do it — had to give it up in despair and sit
down and weep over the failure !

And now, here was this happy crowd of Christian
girls welcoming her into the same Barielly with a
doxology of joy ! " What hath God wrought ! ''
After a multitude of congratulations we were re-
leased, and our kind entertainers, Brother and Sister
Thomas, carried us off to their comfortable home,
where welcome rest awaited us. But how grateful
was the prayer that we offered to God that night for
all the mercies of this journey, and for the blessing
and the joy with which it had just been crowned !

Next day they had a formal reception for us in the
Girls' Orphanage, having done all they could to make
it interesting and delightful. It was the brightest
sight we had ever seen in India — that precious group
of Christian girls, two hundred and eighty-four in
number — all so neat and happy, who, together with
their instructors, the mission families and visitors,
filled the entire hall. The dark eyes of the orphan
girls were lustrous with interest, and gleamed out the
grateful feelings that evidently filled their hearts.
The occasion was evidently an event in their lives — as
it certainly was in our own — and one never to be for-

From Boston to Bareilly. 333

gotten by either party. After devotional services
they sang sweetly several of their hymns, such as

" I need thee every hour,
Most gracious Lord," etc.;
and,

" His name yields tlie richest perfume,
And sweeter tlian music his voice," etc.

It was delightful to reflect that so many of them
were siniJ^ins: these estatic words from a heartfelt real-
ization of their meaning. Miss Sparkes was presid-
ing, and Mrs. Butler and myself had been seated in
the posts of honor. A Imsh, and the manifestations
of an intense interest began to steal over the assem-
bly. It was evident that something more than
ordinary was about to occur. Amid this solemn
attention, one of the teachers stepped out into the
center aisle. She was one of the original hundred and
fifty orphans, and is retained as a leading teacher.
How sweet and precious she looked ! Controlling her
own emotions, she proceeded to give, in her own lan-
guage, the address of welcome on behalf of the orig-
inal number, as well as of all who were then present,
expressing their gratitude to God and to us for all
that had been done to make them what they were
that day, and expressing gratefully their appreciation
of the tender affection which led us, so voluntarily
and without any official obligation, and even in our
old age, to cross the world to see theTYi once more. It
was accepted by them as one of the highest instances
that they had ever known of Christian love ; they be-

834 From Boston to Bareilly.

lieved it could have been prompted only by the great
love of the precious Saviour, who died for them.

When she had concluded, there stepped out three
little ones — the leader of them, perhaps nine years old
or less, advanced toward us, the other two behind her,
bearing something covered up on a tray ; all evident-
ly feeling the importance of what they had to do on
behalf of the rest. The little tot advanced till she
stood right before us, and then, with wonderful self-
conmiand, she said :

" Sahib and raemsahib, salam (peace be unto you.)
I have been selected by the school to oEer you our
nuzzar (a gift of honor and affection) because, sahib,
I am the orphan child of the first orphan girl you
took up. The name you gave my mother was Al-
mira Blake. She lived to grow up and be educated,
and became a Christian, and was married to a preach-
er. My mother died three years ago, and my father
last year, and I was left alone, and they took me in
here for my mother's sake. So, sahib, this is the rea-
son why they selected me to present the offering of
their love and gratitude to you and to the mem sahib."

Before I state what she did, let me refer to her
first words. How well I remember when, in T^ovem-
ber, 1858, divine Providence placed in my hands the
first female orphan we ever received. She was a
poor, weak, little creature, blind of one eye, and plain
featured— certailily no beauty — but she was a girl^
and she was all our own to rear for Jesus and his

From Boston to Bareilly. 335

Cliurcli. We rejoiced over her, and felt she was a
precious charge for India's sake. Dear sainted Mrs.
Pierce cherished her with a mother's love. This was
our first female orplian, and she lived to grow up, to
experience religion and become a teacher, and a use-
ful woman, and was sought in marriage bj one of our
native preachers. She did well in this relation, and
when her early death occurred, she died comforted
by the presencQ of her Eedeemer. And now here
was her little orphan daughter standing before us,
speaking for her mother and all the rest, so simply
and gratefully!

Turning round, the little one then beckoned with
her finger, and the other two advanced to her side,
and the tray was uncovered, and there were the lov-
ing gifts of the dear girls, wrouglit with their skillful
fingers— a pair of elegant satin sofa pillows, all
worked over with flowers, amid which were entwined
the beautiful forget-me-nots, and marguerites. Lift-
ing one of them on her left hand she pointed with
the other at me, and said, " Now, sahib, when you
return home and feel weary, you are to lay your head
on this and think of us girls," and in her simplicity
she bent down her little head to the pillow, as if to
show how it was to be done. Then she lifted the
other and pointed to Mrs. B., and repeated her di-
rections. Worked slippers were then presented
and particularized. Last of all were lifted a pair of
elegant satin caps, w^orked in tlie same style as the

336 From Boston to Bareilly.

pillows, and after speaking of mine, she took up the
other, and said, " And now, sahib, when we had fin-
ished that for you, we remembered your love for
good Brother Joel^ your first helper, who has been so
faithful, and we thought it would gratify you if we
made another for him, and have you put it on his
head. He is blind now, sahib, and wont be able to
see you, but it will be so nice for you to put it
upon his head when you meet him soon at Chan-
dausi ! "

All this was done with a natural grace and sim-
plicity so charming that it won every heart as well
as ours, and the little one was congratulated on all
sides, as she resumed her seat, for the skill with which
she had conducted the presentations on their behalf.
How amply repaid was the toilsome journey by the
events and emotions of this glad reception !

Being anxious to present to the Church, and espe-
cially to those w^ho have been patrons of these dear
girls during the past twenty-four years the results of
that Orphanage to the cause of Christ in India (so
far as these results can be traced in figures), I had
brought with me my own lists and correspondence,
that I miglit have the help which Mrs. Thomas and
Miss Sparkes and others there could give, in ascer-
taining how fully the anticipations concerning the Or-
phanage have been realized, and the prayers offered on
its behalf have been answered. I made the same effort
on behalf of the Boys' Orphanage; and since my

From Boston to Bareilly. 337

return have liad to conduct an extensive correspond-
ence, in order to obtain the further accuracy that was
so necessary to reach the facts as fully as it was possi-
ble to do so.

I have been able to trace nearly one hundred and
thirty of the original orphan girls through their
school days, and after they left the Orphanage, to
their present position. If my readers will refer to
the description of these girls as they were laid down
at our door twenty- four years ago (commencing on
page 309), they can then fully appreciate the wonderful
significance of the results which I now present, as to
how they turned out and what they became — what
Christian education and divine grace have made out
of that helpless group of misery and degradation.

Of that original band of orphan girls the records
before me show that they became :

Medical Practitioners 8

Dispensary and Hospital Assistants 5

Sciiool Teachers and Zenana Visitors 28

Others, married, Colporteurs 3

" School Teachers 14.

" Exhorters 5

" Local Preachers employed in the work 14

* Members of Conference 10

A total of Christian Workers numbering eighty-seven, and
connected officially with the agency of our mission for the evan-
gelization of the country.

In addition to these, the number who married into secular life,
but to Christian men, members of our churches and congre-
gations, who are tradesmen, farmers, servants, etc., amount to 37

Making an ascertained total of * 124

22

338 From Boston to Bareilly.

The difference between this and the original num-
ber is accounted for by death, removals, etc. Some
of these deaths have beo-un to be recorded amons:
tlie " Memoirs " in the Minutes of the North India
Conference. Two such appeared last year. Those
of Helen, wife of Rev. Ambica Charn Paul; and
Mary Wheeler, wife of Rev. T. W. Greenwold. The
latter was among those trained by Miss Swain as lady
doctors. The record of both, as wives of native pas-
tors, is honorable, and their deaths were triumphant.

Having traced the history of the original band of
orphans as far as it was possible to do so, I then
requested Miss Sparkes to furnish me with an abstract
of the names and history of the girls which have
come into her care during the twelve years that the
Orphanage has been under her control, so as to com-
plete our view of the value and results of the institu-
tion to our mission during the twenty-four years of
its existence. This she did, and closed her commu-
nication with the cheering statement : " Of the 125
girls who have gone forth from this Orphanage since
I assumed charge of it, I find that 101 are to-day
engaged in Christian work in the mission." This is
a wonderful record. So, coml)ining the earlier and
later bands of orphan girls, tlie following is the re-
sult to Christianity.

The Bareilly Orphanage has given to our mission
within the period named the following band of cult-
ured helpers :

From Boston to Bareilly. 339

Medical Women 16

Assistants in Dispensaries and Hospitals 7

JSciiool and Zenana Teachers 56

Wives of Colporteurs 6

Wives of Exhorters 8

Wives of School Teachers 32

Wives of Local Preachers employed in the work 39

Wives of Members of Conference 18

A total of Christian Workers 181

Besides this, it has furnished wives to Christian
farmers, tradesmen, etc., 78 ; a grand total of 259
Christian women, leaving about 50 of the 309 re-
ceived to be accounted for by deaths, removals, etc.
May it not be humbly, but gratefully, asked whether,
in the history of Christian orphanages, there ever has
l)een a result which calls for deeper gratitude to God
than this exhibit presents to the women of our
Church? How their prayers have been answered
and their liberality rewarded is manifest in this won-
derful outcome, which will, I am sure, lead thousands
of loving and grateful hearts to be " abundant also by
many thanksgivings unto God."

Who can calculate the results to Christianity and
the future which these 259 girls have secured to our
mission ? If any one asks why I, the founder of the
missions of the parent Board, have given so much of
this narrative to trace the origin and history of this
institution, I need only answer him by requesting
that he will pause and think what would have been
to-day the condition of our mission in India without

340 From Boston to Bareilly.

that Orphanage. Let him turn back to page 225, and
read tliat and the three pages following. He can
then imagine the aspect which the work of the parent
Board would present to-day in the Gangetic Valley to
any one who visited it. Take a single item, our na-
tive ministry ; what would they have ever been to our
work with no wives, or only heathen ones ? But this
institution has furnished cultivated and converted
wives to sixty of their number ; the educated daugh-
ters of the first married have furnished a few more
lately, while others are under training, and are grad-
uating year after year '* help meets," indeed, for our
rising ministry. Some of these precious ones have
already passed away. Let me here present a sample
of this class of helpers which the Orphanage has
turned out, taking one of the fi rst, who died last year,
and giving the substance of the " memoir" which the
Conference committee presented, and which was
published in their Annual Minutes :

"Mrs. Helen M. Paul.
" Helen M'Gregor, the beloved wife of our brother
Bev. A. C. Paul, was born about 1846. Left an or-
phan at a very early age, she was taken by the gov-
ernment authorities, and, at the close of the Mutiny,
in 1858, was made over to our mission in Lucknow
for care and education. She remained in the Girls'
Orphanage, after its removal to Bareilly, acting as
pupil-teacher, until, in 1863, she was united in mar-

From Boston to Bakeilly. 341

riage with Brother Ambica Charn Paul, being the
first of a long line of girls to go out from our Orphan-
age to form new homes throughout all iNTorth India.
Her marriage was ariiappy one, and she was the wor-
thy, loving mother of live daughters and two sons.

"Sister Paul died at Barabanki, October 8, 1883,
after many months of suffering and prostration. She
triumphed in her dying hour, and so well prepared
was she, and so willing to depart, even though her
family was so dear to her, and she loved her mission
work, that death to her was more a translation than
the gloomy thing so often feared and pictured. For
lier, death had lost its sting and the grave its victory.
She was an earnest Christian, a kind and loving wife
and mother, a faithful and successful worker among
the women of her husband's parish, a hospitable
friend and neighbor, careful to entertain strangers,
and, having finished the work given her to do, has
gone to receive an unfading crown beyond these
scenes of toil and suffering."

Without these precious girls we could have had no
work among the w^omen, no female hospitals, no ze-
nana visitation or girls' schools, no Christian homes,
no equalized congregations, and no perfect social
Christianity. They have crowned the work of the
parent Board, and have been the leading influence
of its wide extension. May God's rich blessing ever
rest upon all who responded to my appeal from
that Dewanee-Khass, and aided in the origin of this

342 From Boston to Bareilly.

invaluable institution, as well as upon those who
have since given their sympathy and help for its
present development. Precious girls ! when I looked
upon them last year, in all their intelligence, Chris-
tian culture, and usefulness, and remembered what
they were saved from (though probably not one of
them is aware of the fearful vortex on the margin
of which she was floating away so helplessly twenty-
four years ago), how grateful I became! I could
not but realize that, if my humble life has never
been of any other use to the world than this one
result, I could go down to the grave forever grateful,
that to me was given the opportunity of saving these
poor Hindu girls for the blessed and happy position
which they occupy to-day.

Fkom Boston to Bareilly. 343

CHAPTER YIII.

*' That day shall dawn 1 Its calm and hallowed rest

Shall emblem l)ere the Sabbath of the blest.

Though lingering: clouds obstruct the glorious light,

Tliougli wrathful foes withstand Messiah's might,

Tlie trembling captives cast their bonds away,

And spring to light, and bless the opening day.

His mild evangelists His way prepare ;

His living word Messiah's heralds bear ;

Tlirough heathen lands the Gospel trumpet sounds,

'Gainst Antichrist's unhallowed throne rebounds,

Dissolves dark Superstition's direful spell,

Assails the atheist sophistry of hell,

Lays Babel's towering turrets in the dust,

And bids the poor in boundless mercy trust." — Mks. Bulmer.

It was a great privilege to be in time to attend the
closing exercises of our Theological Seminary. I
had watched its founding and development with the
deepest interest, and now to be present and witness
the graduation of its students, as they went forth
equipped for their great work, became one of the
highest privileges of this extraordinary jonrney. No
land needs a trained ministry more than India does,
and it is certainly to the credit of our Church that
she possesses this efficient Methodist theological
school in this geographical center of her North India
territory.

A few facts in regard to its history (furnished by
Kev. Dr. Scott, the theological tutor) will be of in-

344 From Boston to Bareilly.

terest. For fourteen years tliey had no regular
method of training native preacliers. This was left
mainly to the individual effort of the missionaries.
They had something of an Annual and District Con-
ference course of study marked out, but at best such
courses could not be made effective. The need of a
theological school pressed upon them. In 1872 the
India Conference availed itself of a generous offer
from Rev. D. W. Thomas, a member of the Confer-
ence, and a theological seminary was inaugurated.
Providentially Brother Thomas had money and was
able to give $20,000 toward the seminary. This was
for the endowment of scholarships ; as the first con-
sideration was something with which to sustain the
students who were ready to be trained. Their pupils
being without home or friends, or support as Chris-
tians, it was necessary to aid them while getting an
education. Hence the need of scholarship endow-
ments at once. They turned a native preacher's
house into a seminary building, improvised dormito-
ries from a row of huts that had been occupied by
native Christian families, and with Brother Thomas
as the principal, and Dr. Scott to assist in the teaching,
they made a commencement. They began with about
a dozen students, who worked through a three-years'
course of study, and grand preachers most of them
became. The standard of entrance to the school was
not placed very high, for they needed men and it was
the day of small things. They have sino^ made the

From Boston to Bareilly. 345

standard of entrance more difficult. After a few
years, partly to supply Cliristian teacliers for their
schools, and partly to furnish a preparatory depart-
ment for the theological seminary, a normal and high
school was opened in connection with the seminary.
Meantime Mr. Thomas had visited the United States,
and secured from camp-meetings and individuals en-
dowments for some thirty -six additional scholarships.
Each year brought a new class, who either in becom-
ing Christians lost all, or in abandoning other pursuits
for study needed these scholarships. The generosity
of E. Remington, Esq., of Ilion, N. Y., enabled them
to erect, in 1875, a beautiful building with chapel
room, library hall, and recitation rooms complete. We
present here a picture of this building : Dormitories
were expanded for the increasing number of students.
More recently the institution has been registered or
incorporated by the government of North India to
give its board of trustees legal authority in holding
and controlling its property and funds. Thus they
have moved forward, doing a most important work
for the native ministry and the evangelization of the
country. Eighty-nine regular graduates have passed
out, with thirty who have taken a partial course,
making one hundred and eleven native missionaries
who have been trained in this school of the prophets.
Fonr of these have gone to work in other missions —
one for the Baptist brethren at Delhi, and three for
the Presbyterians at Hajpootana.

34G From Boston to Bareilly.

It may be interesting to tlie reader to know some-
thing more particularly about the organization and
internal economy. The curriculum of study is sub-
stantially the same as pursued by students of theolog-
ical institutions in America. Of course they have
adaptations of some things to India. Drill is close
and hard, and examinations are sharp and thorough.
The classic languages of India are studied,viz. : San-
skrit, Persian, and Arabic, Students are generally
married men. Married life begins early in India.
Each married student is allowed two small rooms, un-
furnished. In the rooms he will place a couple of
small cots, a box, perhaps a little table, an earthen-
ware lamp, very cheap, a few brass cooking utensils,
and he is ready for life and study in a theological
school. The scholarship allowances will seem wonder-
fully small in the United States. The married
students receive, at the present value of the rupee,
about $4 a month, and unmarried students about
$2 40 a month. In the normal school department
married students get $2 40 a month, and single stu-
dents $1 40 a month. With these sums they furnish
their rooms, feed and clothe themselves, and furnish
their own books. The seminary has been at work for
twelve years, and now has a fair supply of buildings,
the result of donatiotis and partial help from our Mis-
sionary Society. Fifty-seven scholarships have been
founded, meeting their present want. But a press-
mo necessity is endowment in support of teachers.

From Boston to Bareilly. 347

Tlie Mission Board supplies only the salary of the
principal. In the seminary proper, and in the nor-
mal school department, four or live other teachers are
employed for wliom no endowment has yet been se-
cured. So far these teachers have been paid from the
income of the scholarship endowment. This much-
regretted necessity has greatly crippled the efficiency
of the institution.^ The present aim is to raise $12,000
for the endowment of a native professor's chair.
This sum will yield a sufficient salary in India. The
board of trustees has decided that any one donating
a sum sufficient to found a chair shall have the privi-
lege of naming the chair. Will not some generous-
hearted brother or sister come forward and, by assum-
ing the whole or the largest part of this sum, claim
this privilege ?

This is the first Methodist Theological Seminary
in Asia. It has already done a noble work in supply-
ing one hundred and eleven native missionaries to the
field, besides preparing a number of Christian teach-
ers. The opening is a grand one in the pressing de-
mand for trained men in this rapidly expanding
mission work. India pleads for something worthy of
the great opening presented there. This institution
is educating a ministry for a population as large as
half the population of the United States, and in a
language spoken by one hundred millions of people.
They are looking to this present year to fit them for
enlarged usefulness. Nowhere ^can money be be-

348 Fkom Boston to Bakeilly.

stowed for more effective work in the salvation of
souls. This seminary should he raised at ortce to the
highest condition of effectiveness. Now is the time
to put a shoulder to this wheel. We are on the eve
of mighty moral and social revolutions in the vast
pagan world. The great deep, especially in India
and Japan, is breaking up. The Church should move
forward with all its wisdom and power at this su-
preme moment. Anti-Christianity is already trying
to preempt the field. Agents of skepticism from
Christian lands are now on the ground. Islam is en-
dowing great colleges. Buddhism is reconstruciting
its base. Here is where the Church's great battle
against Paganism will be fought out. The day that
Bees idolatry surrender in India will see its doom
every-where. Under God, our hope of this grand
victory rests largely in such a cultured and sanctified
ministry as has begun to go forth from this school of
the prophets. With increased means they could con-
fer upon them that more adequate culture which the
impending conflict will so much require, and also pro-
vide room for the larger number which the growing
wants of their work demand ; so that they may be en-
abled to follow up and utilize the success which God
is giving them.

My readers may be interested in looking over the
programme of exercises on the day in question, when
these seven students were graduated. The number
is usually larger, sometimes as high as thirteen :

From Boston to Bareii.ly. 349

BAKEILLY THEOLOGICAL SEMINAKY.

CLOSING EXERCISES FOR GRADUATING CLASS, 1883,

Saturday^ Decemher 15, 11 A. M,

PRO&RAMME.

SINGING AND PRAYER.

ADDRESSER BY GRADUATES.

" His Ministers a Flume of Fire,"^ ) PitXri Lal.

Kliddimon ko dg kd shuala bandy a, )

The Word in Tinje, , , , , l C„ejj/ t . .

Jo bdt waqt par kahi jdti kyd khuh hai, ) ' ' '.

How the Gospel entered India and gratitude for it. >
lajil kymkar Ilindastdn men pahuuchi, aur us ke dne [>• John W. Todd.
ki shukr-guzdri, )

NATIVE MUSIC.

Self-sacrifice, } -rtr . t,t^t.xt nr o^^-,,™,

Apnd inkdr knrnd, \ ^^^^^^ ^^- ^co^T.

Christ the Life, ) q.„t't ti.««^

-Zindagi Mam hun:^ \ bAMi L Harry.

NATIVE MUSIC.

Labor omnia vincit,"

Mihnat se sab kuchh ho saktd hail ^^^^ Bakhsh.

Success in the Ministry, ) -Rt^TTr/ QTxrn

Waiz kis taur se kdmydb ho, S ^^'^^'^ ^^^®-

NATIVE MUSIC.

Brief Report of the School, Remarks by Yisitors,

Reading of Standings, Delivering of Diplomas,

Doxology and Benediction.

Graduating Class Sermon, Sunday, 9th By the Principal.

Annual Sermon, Sunday, 16th, at 10 A. M By Rev. R. Hoskins.

Alumni Sermon at 3 P. M By Kallu Sixg.

350 From Boston to Bareilly.

Four of the young men bear English names, inti-
mating that they came through our Boys' Orphanage
and have the names of their American patrons. The
Enghsh rendering is given of the theme, which was
read in the Hindustanee.

I was requested to preside and say a few words to
each student before handing him his diploma. The
iirst whom Dr. Scott brought forward and introduced,
as standing at the head of his class, was a brother
without any caste distinction at all, and whom any
Brahmin in the land would affect to look down upon
with contempt. Yet here he was, hj general consent,
the first in his class for all excellence. Such is the
fruit of Christianity. How grandly the divine pur-
pose in this respect was illustrated at the Mela at
Ajudhiya, a few weeks since, will be referred to far-
ther on.

In introducing the last student to me, Dr. Scott
said, " And this, sir, is a Presbyterian." How odd it
sounded — a Presbyterian student graduating in a
Methodist theological seminary ! The doctor saw my
surprise and amusement, and in explanation said:
" When you came up country alone in 1856, our good
Presbyterian brethren at Allahabad made you a pres-
ent of one of their students, that you might have some
one to begin with, and you will remember how faith-
fully that gift. Brother Joel, stood by you, and still
stands an example to our rising ministry. So, when
our Presbvterian brethren in Eajpootana, who have

From Boston to Bareilly. 351

no theological seminary of their own, asked us to train
a student for .them at their expense, we gladly and
gratefully consented, and this is the third whom we
have graduated for them. I was delighted, and could
not but remark that with all our respect for evangel-
ical alliance, I regarded this fact as one of the most
beautiful and expressive illustrations of real Christian
union that I had ever known. I gave the young man
as hearty a hand-shake as he ever received, and said :
" When you return to our Presbyterian brethren in
Rajpootana, give them my love, and tell them that
while you are the third installment we have paid for
Brother Joel, we are willing to pay the same amount
over again, if they so desire, ere we feel our obliga-
tion is fairly met."

A large flag floated from the staff on the top of the
seminary all the time we were there, having the
words, ""Welcome to the founders of the mission,
1856-1883," in three languages upon it — the Hindu-
stanee, the Ilindee, and the English. So, of course,
almost every one in Bareilly knew we were there,
and the interest resulting was considerable. Several
of the old native gentlemen who knew me in the
Sepoy rebellion days came to see me. Some of them
were present at the reception tendered us on the
evening of the closing exercises, and the kind neigh-
borly spirit which they evinced was very pleasant.
Here were the men, some of whom knew that myself
and family were doomed to die jthe death as soon as

352 From Boston to Bareilly.

Khan Bahadur seized power in May, 1857. How
certain our fate must have seemed to them ! Yet,
when the day (31st of May) came, and they beheld
the Nawab's vengeance wreaked on the fifteen En-
glish gentlemen whom he seized and executed, the
missionary and his wife and two children were not
among the victims. I have no means of knowing
what they thought then, but certainly, at this recep-
tion, twenty-six years after, it was evident enough
that they were truly glad that we had not been
hanged, but were here now in life and health once
more among them. The conciliation of views and
feelings toward Christianity which they admitted,
and the kind words of appreciation of our native
ministry and our church members which they spoke,
were very gratifying to me. Christianity is evident-
ly telling, and that in its highest and best sense, upon
the thoughtful minds of thousands who have not yet
embraced it, but are beginning to recognize its value
and its truth.

The commanding position of our mission premises
in Bareilly, occupying both sides of the main street,
has been often referred to by those who have visited
our mission. Bishop Foster's eulogium is especially
kind and appreciative. But I could not fail to recall
to mind the limited views of some of my associates
when I resolved, in addition to what we had then, to
secure the site on which the theological seminary
and the church stand to-day. One of these good

From Boston to Bareilly. » 353

brethren was now magnanimous enough to remind
me of their want of sympathy witli me in that trans-
action. He said : " Brother Butler, when you took
the responsibility of securing tlie lot on that side of
the road for our work, you remember we thought you
were going too fast, and making unnecessary provis-
ion for the future. But how evident it is now that
we were mistaken and that you were right. Often
have w^e expressed our gratitude that you acted on
your own broader views in the matter, and secured
it for us when it could be done. How complete and
powerful its possession has made our mission. You
secured it for us, too, at a small outlay, but no money
that w^e could command would buy it for us to-day."
Yery generous it was of this good brother to make
this admission, and what a justification to my own
mind that I had sought and followed the guidance of
God in thus providing for the rising wants of his
work and the blessed future toward which I then ap-
preliended we were moving, and which I expected
would justify my action.

The Sabbath was probably the grandest day in all
our Christian life ; and this is saying so much it makes
me pause ; yet still I can dare reaffirm it as my con-
viction. Its crowded and holy services contrasted so
gloriously with that weary Sabbath in 1857, when
we were here for the first time alone ; no congrega-
tion, no fellow-worshipers, no sign of a Sabbath — all

secular and idolatrous — our harp^ hung on the wil-
23

354 ' From Boston to Bareilly.

lows, and " we wept as we remembered Zion." How
sad that day was ! It required all the faith we could
muster to bear up and hope for the better day that was
to come, when our w^onder-working God was to " make
a way in the wilderness and rivers in the desert."
And now

" That day lias dawned ! "

and we are here to behold its glorious light. How
true, how appropriate to us, we felt the divine word
to be, that twenty-six years ago we clung to in that
" dark and cloudy day," the naked promise of our
God, without the first external sign to encourage us :
" He that goeth forth and weepeth, bearing precious
seed, shall doubtless come again with rejoicing, bring-
ing his sheaves with him."

The beautiful church was crowded that morning
with a congregation of native Christians, whose tidy
appearance and devout and intelligent aspect was a
joy to behold. I think I am not partial in saying that
I have not seen in all India an audience more wortliy
of this remark. It w^as also so good to see such a pre-
ponderance of the woman element in the congrega-
tion, due, of course, to the presence of the girls from
the Orphanage, as well as to hear such Christian sing-
ing in a heathen land as we had there that day.

As the sermon ended. Dr. Dease, the missionary in
charge, came forward and said that, before the service
was closed, there were one or two other things which
they desired I should do for them — more delightful

Fkom Boston to Bakeilly. 355

surprises prepared for us by our kind friends. He
explained that tliej had reserved the candidates for
full reception belonging to the two quarters, so that I
might have the joy and honor of receiving them, and
giving tliem the right hand of fellowship on behalf
of the Church at home. He drew forth the list and
began to read, and did not reach the end until sixty-
seven names were called. What a sight it w^as, as
they came round the communion rails and stood two
and three deep. More than twenty-five of them wxre
oi'phan girls, and some of them looked so young, that
I quietly asked the doctor if he considered that all of
these youthful candidates had " saving faith in
Christ ? " He smiled and said in reply : " I asked
that question of Miss Sparkes the day she handed me
her portion of the list, and she assured me that she
had held them back from joining in full until she was
satisfied that each of them was a child of God." He
added, " You need have no reservation in your mind
on that point." Of course, after such assurance, I had
none, but gladly received them all.

When they had taken their seats Dr. Dease again
arose and said : " And now, sir, we have another
pleasant duty which we desire you should also fulfill
for us. The converts of the quarter from heathenism
are here to be baptized and received on probation, and
we wish you to have this privilege also." He read
again, and thirty-four answered to their names and
came around the altar. It was a> grand sight, these

356 FfiOM Boston to Bareilly.

accessions from heathenism to Christianity. It was a
matter of satisfaction tliat so much of my little stock
of Hindustanee had come back to me, that I was able
to give them the sacred rite in their own language.
And this was in Bareilly ! The experience of this
day was unique in my ministerial life. Never before
have I baptized so many, or received such a number
into full membership into our Church, in any one
day. At home it would not be so wonderful. But
this was Bareilly ! Here, where the Urst member
we received became a martyr for her faith. Here
where w^e, too, w^ere doomed to die. Here, where so
many suffered death for Christ on the 31st of May,
1857, and their bodies lay exposed in the pubhc
streets. Here, where we escaped with the loss of all
things but life. Here, where we experienced the
loneliest and saddest Sabbath in our Christian history,
and where the outlook was then so dreadful for Chris-
tianity, where the enemies of the Lord Jesus held
their high carnival for full fifteen months ; even here
liad God brought us back to see, and rejoice in the
wonderful evidence how he could " make the wrath
of man to praise him," and restrain the remainder of
wrath. Yes, here, within those communion rails, I
stood, with a heart full to overflowing and with tears
of joy, and realized it all as no one else could. How
conscious I was that the blessed Master himself was
w^ith nie as I was honored to receive, there and
then, one hundred and one members into the Chris-

From Boston to Bareilly. 357

tian Church, nearly one half of the number being
females I

We are assured in the word of God that, in " the
assemblies of his saints," there is more presence than
what is visible to mortal eye. " We are made a spec-
tacle to the world and to angels and to men," " com-
passed about with a great cloud of witnesses." How
fully I was impressed with the consciousness of this
fact that day as I stood there. The divine presence
was realized w^ith a peculiar power ; but in addition to
this divine surrounding, a special impression of the
interest that Maria must have in this scene kept re-
curring to my thoughts all tln^ough those reception
and baptismal services, until she seemed so manifest-
ly before my mind, that I came to the conclusion that
it had probably pleased the blessed Lord to grant
that the soul of the martyred girl (whose mutilated
body was lying under the rose -hedge only a few
minutes' walk from where I w^as standing) the privi-
lege of being present to look once more on the face of
her old pastor and witness the joy of his heart that
day as he received or baptized these one hundred and
one candidates, half of them of her own sex, into
the communion of the Church for whose sake she suf-
fered death ! I never had such a vivid impression of
the presence of any of the sainted dead. To me at
least it seemed very real ; indeed, the highest realiza-
tion I have ever known as to

" How thinly the vail intervenes "

358 From Boston to Bareilly.

between ourselves and the spirits of the just made
perfect, whom we are so soon to join.

Speaking of these orphan girls at Bareilly, and of
what they have become and are yet to become to
Christianity in India, I am reminded of an incident
that occurred in one of the audiences which I ad-
dressed. There were probably six hundred persons
present, nearly all of them native Christians. Babu
Eam Chander Bose was my interpreter on the occasion,
and he is certainly one of the most competent of his
class. He stood on one side of the pulpit and I on
the other, and without a moment's hesitation, as fast
as I uttered the thought in English, he poured it out
in his fluent Hindustanee. The audience was in-
tensely interested, as they usually are, in this style of
addressing them. I was making three points as to the
object of missionaries in coming to India: to give
them a true religion, a sanctified education, and to
create the Christian home. All went smoothly till
I pronounced my third position, when the Babu sud-
denly stopped and looked round him confused. For
a moment I supposed he was ill. But turning to the
missionaries sitting behind us, he asked, " Brethren,
what am I to do with that word ? In the sense in
which Dr. Butler is using it, we have no term in our
language by which I can render his word home. I
can translate it " house " or " family," but neither
would express his meaning, yet I can get no nearer.
What am I to do?"

From Boston to Bareilly. 359

I stood and looked at tlie cultured Babu in his
inability, knowing that if he could not translate the
word adequately probably no one else of his race
could. He had been twice in America ; had seen
"the Christian home," and knew exactly what it was,
and how it ought to be represented. But there he
stood and was helpless. This was, perhaps, one of the
highest compliments ever paid to the Christian re-
ligion. The Babu could not find the term in his vo-
cabulary, for the sufficient reason that the thing it
expresses is not to be found in the condition of his
country. Heathenism has but little need for the
word. They have sacrificed the possibility of its true
meaning by their treatment of woman and their sen-
timents in regard to her. Their miserable civiliza-
tion has involved them in this penalty. Polygamy,
either as a fact oi* a possibility, banishes the idea of
home from any land over which it spreads its dark
shadow. The happiest wife in India knows well that,
though she may to-day be alone with her lord, and
without a rival in his affection, that to-morrow all this
may be changed. With or without any reason on her
part — without any failure of her duty or affection —
lier lord and master may choose to become fickle, his
love may wander and find other attractions, and with-
out a note of warning she may at any hour find her-
self supplanted, and a stranger introduced into the
" family " or " house."

^or would she dare even to protest ; for well she

360 From Boston to Bareilly.

knows that botli lier religion and the law justify her
husband in so doing. And any rebellion on her part
against the deep wrong done her can be suddenly
ended by her punishment and expulsion. No ; no
true, no Christian home is there, and cannot be, so
long as their vile religion regulates their family life.
If to this license you add ignorance, then the chain
which binds woman's condition is dark as well as
galling. Only Christianity can create the home. That
fragment of Eden w^hich has survived the fall, un-
der the merciful arrangements of Him who ordained
holy matrimony, is still guarded by his justice, and
made possible to those alone who accept his condi-
tion of

" Loving one only and being true to lier."

He enjoins the measure of that true and manly
affection, when his holy providence has guided the
two sincere and honest hearts together. At his altar,
as the gentle hand of the trusting woman is placed in
the hand of him who then covenants before God and
man " to love, honor, and cherish her, and forsaking
all other, cleave only unto her as long as they both
shall live," the Author of this blessed institution adds,
to the heart and conscience of the happy bridegroom,
" Now love her as Christ also loved the Church." Here
is God's own foundation for the Christian home ; the
rest, for its culture and sanctity, depends upon them-
selves. A home, too, where its children, the fruit of their
affection, are gladly welcomed as the gifts of heaven,

From Boston to Bareilly. 361

to be ti-aiiied for glory, honor, and immortality; where
the family altar is sustained in its midst, and divine
benedictions sanctify the joys and sorrows of their
daily lives. What scope God intended should be
given in this sanctuary of the affections for the exer-
cise of the tenderest charities of life, its mutual help-
fulness and sweetest sympathies !

Without Eve, Paradise w^as but a solitude to the
most perfect man of our race. It is still woman, thus
honored, that with her cultured affection, her devotion
and unquestioning trust, forms the Christian liome ;
w^hich makes a paradise for the poor man as well as
for the rich, for the cottage as for the palace ; for there
the loving wife reigns as queen and fears no rival.
" Her children rise up and call her blessed ; her hus-
band also, and lie praiseth her." Such homes are the
creations of Christianity, and they flourish most where
its influence is most felt. Christianity enriches the
language and the civilization of every land which it
enters, as it renews the heart and life of each individ-
ual who receives it. " Old things are passed away ; be-
hold, all things become new." The new life demands
a home suitable to its own peace and joy, and Cliris-
tianity stands ready to create it for all its true disciples.
As the vernacular has no word to express the idea of
such a home, so it has none to properly define regen-
eration and its associated blessings, and the people
must either go to their ancient classics to And a phrase
for them, or coin the requisite terms. But as sure

3G2 From Boston to Bareilly.

as this new tiling is born in their land, like the manna
in the wilderness, a worthy name will be found for
it, by which it will henceforth be designated and rec-
ognized.

Already such homes are beginning to dot the great
valley. Our female Orphanage, under God, is doing
its part toward their creation, and the number and
culture of them are increasing.

The second generation is building them better than
the first, and "the rise in blessing" is still before
them. I saw some of these homes. One of our
most pleasant recollections is where we were invited
to go and share their humble . evening meal, and
when the repast was ended, the dear woman laid the
word of God before me, and said, " Sahib, wont you
please read a portion and pray with us before you
go ? " Yes, surely, here was the very thing that Babu
Bose could not call by name, but which this Hindu
Methodist wife and mother knew by experience as a
fact in the humble little sanctuary where her daily
life is spent.

Our Boj's' Orphanage, at Shahjahanpore, forty- three
miles east from Bareilly, was our next point of inter-
est. Its origin and history have been intimated al-
ready in speaking of the Orphanage at Bareilly.
This institution, also, has fully answered our hopes,
and has become of untold blessing to our mission
work. The number of children received into it
lias been smaller than what the Girls Orphanage ad-

From Boston to Bareilly. 3C3

niitted. But those in charge of it, and especially
Brothers Jolmson and Bare, have equal reason to be
grateful for the results attained, as have the devoted
ladies who guided the interests of the Bareillv Or-
plianage.

I found every thing at Shahjahanpore in a very sat-
isfactory condition. It is, in fact, a good industrial
school, where, in addition to an excellent Christian
education, our boys are taught to earn their living by
various trades and industries, as well as by the cultiva-
tion of the land around the institution. Shoe-making,
cabinet-making, blacksmithing, rope-making, tailor-
ing, and other trades are taught, and all do what they
can. It is a pleasant and busy scene, and they have the
aspect of being a God-fearing, intelligent, and happy
band of boys. Here, tod, we had a delightful recep-
tion, hearty addresses, and a joyful time generally
with these dear lads. Their little savings had fur-
nished tliem with the " fire-works " with which they
finished up tlieir celebration; and no Fourth of
July boys at home could be more jubilant than these
were that evening. Indeed, human nature is very
much alike all over this world. It is especially so, as
similar conditions of intelligence and religious enthu-
siasm come into action. The experiences and their
manifestations then become almost identical, and
you realize what a true brotherhood these make for
humanity every-where. The bar of clime, color, and
language sinks out of sight, and you have a delight-

C64 From Boston to Bareilly.

ful consciousness of the wide meaning of our Lord's
language when he stretched forth his liand toward
his disciples, and said : " Whosoever [Hindu, Chi-
nese, or American alike] shall do the will of my
Father which is in heaven, the same is my brother,
and sister, and mother."

Here we have Heaven's own remedy for the caste
distinctions, aristocratic exclusiveness, and pride of
race, which have so long separated men and cursed
the world. It is well for us to remember that we
Gentiles were once all alike involved in the common
ruin, when we " were witliout Christ, being aliens
from the commonwealtli of Israel, and strangers from
the covenants of promise, having no hope, and with-
out God in the world : but now, in Christ Jesus, ye
who sometime were far off are made nigh by the
blood of Christ." For he " came and preached peace
to you which were afar off, and to them that were
nigh. For through him we both have access by one
Spirit unto the Father," and are " no more strangers
and foreigners, but fellow-citizens with the saints, and
of the household of God." Into this blessed brother-
hood of salvation and peace, through atoning blood,
the last of men are welcome, the farthest off and the
greatest stranger is especially and cordially invited by
our common Father, "who will have all men to be
saved," and who has laid it as an obligation upon
those already saved to invite the rest to come and be
saved too. How " glorious " the Gospel appears as

Fkom Boston to Bareilly. 365

one stands amid these crowded bazaars, and realizes
that this is its nature and purpose, and that this will
be its blessed result to them also ! Truly, we are
debtors " both to the Greeks, and to the barbarians ;
both to the wise, and to the unwise ;" for we owe
them the Gosjpel^ and will owe it until the last man
on earth has had it given to him. Doubtless, as we
toil for God, we are '' building better than we know,"
for we are finding out and preparing material to aid
in the erection of that " holy temple," of which the
Lord Jesus is " the chief corner-stone," and saved and
glorified humanity will be the component parts.

No one race nor clime can furnish all that is neces-
sary for its beauty and perfection. When complete
it will be evident enough that its " Builder and
Maker " obtained its materials from many lands, and
even from the ends of the earth. Like those dissimi-
lar but magnificent pillars of alabaster, malachite, por-
phyry, and marble — the gifts of crowned heads of
various countries, which constitute the most promi-
nent ornaments of that splendid church of St. Paul's,
outside the gates of Ostia, so the Lord Jesus is hav-
ing materials sought for and prepared whose variety
and loveliness will form forever the leading attrac-
tions of that living temple of our God. And, surely,
India — gorgeous India — is to furnish some of that
redeemed humanity, w^hose nature and quality will
be found at last possessed of the perfection and
polish which will render them capable of bearing

366 Fbom Boston to Bakeilly.

tliat glorious prominence and ornamentation of winch
the divine Architect speaks when he says, " I will
make him a jDillar in the temple of my God, and he
shall go out tlience no more : and I will write upon
him the name of my God, and the name of the city
of my God, the new Jerusaleui, which cometh down
out of heaven from my God, and mine own new
name.'' — Bevised Version.

But we are wandering away from those dear orphan
boys. It was a pleasure to be informed by the mis-
sionary in charge. Brother Bare, that a large number
of tliem meet in class and enjoy religion ; and, also,
that many of the elder ones are helping in the good
w^ork by Sunday-school teaching, by assisting in the
singing in the bazaar services, and by accompanying
the preachers to the villages around to teach the peo-
ple. The native pastor is the Rev. W. E,. Bowen,
one of the original orphan boys, and now a good
minister of Jesus Christ. It was very pleasant to sit
and talk with Brother Bowen of that first band of
boys. As name after name was called from the list
in my hands, he was able to furnish me with valuable
information of many of them as to his school days,
his conversion and life, what he became, who he
married, and where he is now, and how engaged.
Boys who are brouglit up together know one another
well, and their testimony as to each other's religious
and Christian character is seldom extravagant, and
generally very reliable. It made it all the more

From Boston to Bareilly. 367

pleasant, therefore, to me, as I gave the name of his
associates, twenty or more years ago, one after the
other, to hear Brother Bowen say of so many, " Sa-
hib, he was good," or " nice," or '' excellent," as the
case might be. It is very encouraging that they
thus hold each other in respect, and that there was
so little of a contrary character to qualify this gen-
erous regard.

I found it more difficult to trace the history of
the orphan boys than that of the girls. This night
have been expected. But I have done all that was
practicable to obtain the facts concerning them, and
now present the ascertained results of that Orphanage
to the cause of Christ within tlie bounds of the !N^orth
India Conference. The Shahjahanpore Orphanage
has given to the mission since its origin the fol-
lowing educated helpers:

Doctors and Apothecaries 4

Colporteurs 4

School Teachers 27

Exhorters 8

Now in the Theological Seminary 4

Local Preachers employed in the work 41

Members of Conference 19

Total Christian workers 107

Besides these there are 36 engaged in secular em-
ployment as artisans, servants, farmers, railway and
government service, etc., who are members in our
Church and congregations, making a total of 143

368 From Boston to Bareilly.

saved to Christianity by that Orphanage. This leaves,
as nearly as I could ascertain, 39, who must be ac-
counted for by deaths, removals, and failures, making
a total of 182, besides the 158 boys who are still in
the Orphanage. This, too, is a record for which our
Church may well feel deeply grateful to God. Both
Orphanages have fulfilled our every hope, and have
been of immense blessing to our work, and are des-
tined to be far more useful in the days to come.
For the results achieved and the hopes we cherish we
render our devout and adoring thanks to God.

Within a few miles of Shahjahanpore is one of our
two Christian villages. We have about eight hundred
acres of land, granted by the government, where we
not only provide for persecuted Christians who are
turned out of their holdings when they are baptized,
but also where we can provide for such of our orphan
boys as do not develop ability to become teachers or
preachers. Here, as farmers, they can earn a living
and help the cause as members of the Church or con-
gregation. The yield of two crops per year makes a
small amount of land — five to eight acres — sufficient
for the support of a family, and the outfit required
(a pair of bullocks, plow, tools, seed, a central well,
and a little house and furniture) can all be furnished
for $40 or less. When the house is built and the
seed is in the ground the young farmer is ready to
get married, and with a Christian, intelligent wife to
help him, he is prepared for housekeeping. Yes, and

From Boston to Bareilly. 369

a great deal of happiness is realized in those little
Christian homes. The pastor of Panapore (the city
of refuge), as the place is named, is Kev. Horace J.
Adams (named for his patron in Lowell, Mass.), one
of the earliest orphan hoys. He told me that every
one in the village is supposed to attend Sunday-school
and church. In many homes there is a family altar,
and the place does not contain a Sabbath breaker, not
a stroke of work being done on the Lord's day. A
nice little chapel and the school stand at the head of
the village. The whole enterprise is self-sustaining,
and the members are trained to do all they are able
toward the support of their pastor. Money is yet
but little known there, but they contribute in kind,
so many quarts of various sorts of grain, which the
pastor receives and accounts for. As the ability of
the people increases these contributions augment, and
less money is required from the Society for the bal-
ance of the pastor's salary, the expectation being that
after some years the people will be able to take the
entire burden, thus becoming self-supporting, and the
Society be permanently relieved of all expense on
their account.

This Christian community now numbers two hun-
dred and fifty souls, of whom one hundred and ten
are full members, and thirtj^-four probationers. Of
these the patriarch is old Yakub (Hindustanee for
Jacob), who was one of the first in the valley to em-
brace the Christian faith. He is now one hundred
24 «

370 From Boston to Baeeilly.

and three years old, has a rich experience, and is be-
loved by all. He is still able to go round. among the
people and advise and influence them for good, and
seems to be in possession of all his faculties. It was
pleasant to be remembered by the dear old man, and
be so heartily welcomed back again by him.

We leave for Nynee Tal and the mountain district
of our work in India. Here, too, we find the great
improvements which are quietly spreading over the
land. An excellent road now connects Bareilly with
Nynee Tal, seventy-four miles northward. It was
impossible, as we entered the comfortable carriage, to
forget that night of gloom in 1857, when we left in
our uncomfortable doolies, under the liability of being
pursued by the Sepoys, and if not, w^e had the risks
of the malarious Terai to face. But now the carriage
brought us to the Lai Ktta (the red well), in the cen-
ter of the Terai, ere day faded. Here was the scene
of that memorable prayer (mentioned in The Land
of the Veda\ where, at the midnight hour, God
wrought out for us, in answer, that wonderful escape
from those " perils in the wilderness," which can
never be forgotten by ns, either in time or in eter-
nity. To pass the place without stopping w^as out of
the question. As soon as we reached the locality I
ordered the driver to halt, and, taking off my hat,
entered the forest, and stood on the spot where, with
uncovered head, that dreadful night, I so agonizingly
implored divine deliverance, when human help had

From Boston to Babeilly. 371

utterly failed, and a fearful death seemed so immi-
nent if those bearers should abandon us and take
away the only torch, as they declared they must for
their own protection in returning to their station out-
side the Terai ! I trust the gratitude now, twenty-
six years after, w^as not unworthy before God of the
prayer and w^onderful deliverance which he then so
promptly sent us. The locality is as much infested,
all the way up to Iluldwanee, by the " royal Bengal
tigers'' and leopards to-day as it w^as then. In evi-
dence, I need only mention that I requested my good
friend, the governor. Sir Henry Ramsay, to let me
have three tiger and three leopard skins to take back
to America. He promised, and they were shot in
that Terai last April and sent after me. The largest
— now on the floor of our sitting-room — has a face
nearly as big as a bullock and measures over eleven
feet long. Since I left India the railway has been
completed through the Terai, and wliat a terror the
scream of the engine and the glare of the head-light
must be now to those fierce brutes as the train rushes
for nearly twenty miles through their wild domain!

Beautiful Nynee Tal ! It looked lovelier than ever
as we entered it again last year. The little settlement
has grow^n into a great sanitarium. We have here a
self-supporting English Church ; but our native work
has not been developed as it might be, or as its early
liistory led me to liope it w^ould be. It made me sad
to see our native church — the first erected in our mis-

372 From Boston to Bareilly.

sion — rented as a store, and religious services crowded
inconveniently into the scliool-liouse. It seemed to
nie to be a desecration of what had been so solemnly
dedicated to the worship of God. I do not know
who advised this course ; the object was, I under-
stand, to obtain by the rent more help to carry on
the native work. I may wound the feelings of some
one in uttering these words, if they should reach In-
dia, but cannot help it. I must be excused, for I col-
lected the means and built that church, and I have
a conviction that its restoration to its original use and
purpose must take place in order that our native work
may be prosperous in jN^ynee Tal as well as our En-
glish work. This was the only thing in all our mis-
sion that caused me pain ; and it was the more keenly
felt because the prosperity of the native work filled
us with such delight every-where else tliat we went.
I cannot but hope that this error, as I^ regard it, will
soon be rectified, and God's house be restored to his
service, and the requisite help for the work be other-
wise provided for.

Engineering skill has, as far as we can judge, made
the hill-side safe from any further land-slide. We
lost no part of our ground by the former slide. Tlie
situation is one of the most central in IS'ynee Tal.
"We have over ^ve acres of land, which with the
little residence I purchased from Judge Wilson for
one thousand six hundred and fifty rupees (only eight
hundred dollars), and it would to-day bring pi-obably

Fkom Boston to Bareilly. S73

three or four times its original cost if we were dis-
posed to part with it. The growth of the place re-
quires not only the restoration of the church to its
proper purpose, but also another chapel for the lower
bazaar and school.

Our mission agents here are treated by the native
community in the most cordial manner. Brother
Kirk (formerly of the South India Conference), one
of the most devoted of men, is greatly esteemed by
thenu And the native preacher, John Barker, and
his excellent wife, E-emotea (one of Brother Hum-
phrey's medical class), are so popular with the entire
native community that they joined in a formal peti-
tion to Dr. Humphrey, on his return, to have John
and Remotea re-appointed to Kynee Tal. They de-
clared tliey could not do without them, and especially
without Remotea as a medical lady. So they were
restored to them.

One of the most pleasant receptions we had was by
the natives in this bazaar. They heard of our coming
up, and were very cordial. The old tradesmen and
shop-keepers, parents of our former scholars, came
out of their stores into the street in such a kind and
neigliborly way, and welcomed us back again. As
they stood round my pony, amid other kind things,
several of them referred gratefully to the great advan-
tages their boys had derived from the school which we
had opened there in 1857, even while we were shut
up and besieged by Khan Bahadur, and told me what

374 Fkom Boston to Bareilly.

profitable situations some of tlieir bojs were now fill-
ing as a result of the education we gave tliem there.
The}^ thus esteem us as friends of their families and
promoters of their welfare, and have become so con-
ciliated toward Christianity that it was easy to think,
in reference to many of them, that they were " not
far from the kingdom of God." That school is now
self-supporting by the fees which they are willing to
pay to sustain it, notwitlistanding the Christian edu-
cation we give in it. Dr. Humphrey, whom^they
greatly respect, told me that such is their good-will
that wlien his Dispensary began to run out of medi-
cine, he had only to intimate the fact to some of the
young men whom we have educated, and they would
go round that bazaar and quietly make up a purse of
two or three hundred rupees, and bring it to him to
replenish his stock. Surely there is a harvest ripen-
ing here that will yield abundant sheaves to some
future reaper.

There were eighty present at the Sabbath service
in the school-house, thirty of wliom were native
Christians. The latter could be picked out from the
rest at once by their neat and tidy appearance. They
were bright and intelligent looking. In the lower
bazaar we had forty-five of a congregation, with a de-
lightful sacramental service and two baptisms. We
went to visit the old ^' Sheep House " (mentioned in
The Land of the Veda), where our first services were
held; and then to the beautiful little cemetery, wliere

From Boston to Bareilly. ' 375

dear Mrs. Tlioburn and my own sweet babe and oth-
ers are awaiting " the resurrection of the dead."

We had hurried up here thus soon to be in time
to attend the sessions of the Kumaon District Con-
ference. None but ourselves can know liow won-
derfully that name sounded in our ears. Twenty-
seven years ago we stood here on our defense against
our deadly foes, who were in the gorge below us,
watching and waiting the hour when they might rush
up and destroy us. With the exception of the mis-
sion at Almora, in these mountains there was not a
native Christian then, nor a school between this and
Mussoorie, seventeen days' journey west. The six
hundred thousand souls scattered in little villages
down in these valleys and on the sides of these great
mountains knew nothing of our Saviour. He had
not a friend or follower among them all. When at
length our foes below retired, on hearing of the fall
of Delhi, and we were left in comparative safety, I
was led, under the pressure of want of means of sub-
sistence, to venture across these lowxr Himalayas to
Landour, above Delhi, w^here we learned that a bank
had been opened and I could sell a bill on London,
and once more have some money. The results of this
memorable journey have already been given in the
sixth chapter. Both in going and returning again to
!N'ynee Tal (for we could not yet enter Rohilcund,
which was still in possession of the Sepoys, the En-
glish forces being only strong enough to hold Delhi

376 From Boston to Baretlly.

and Lucknow, which thej had retaken, and awaited
the arrival of the troops which were hurrying to their
help from England) we had the sad evidence all the
w^ay as to the condition of heathen darkness in which
these mountaineers were sitting, and had been sitting
for long ages past ! Most earnest were our pleadings
with God that the day might dawn soon upon these
poor benighted people ! And now here we were
again, twenty-seven years after, about to start from
IS'ynee Tal for Dwarahat — three days' journey into
the interior — and for what purpose ? To attend a
Methodist District Conference in the very center of
Kumaon ! How delightfully true had the words be-
come, and also as applicable as ever they could have
been to those of whom they were originally spoken
" in Galilee of the Gentiles," that " t\\e people which
sat in darkness saw great light," and "to them
which sat in the region and shadow of death light is
sprung up."

Only photographs can do justice to the wonder-
ful roads we had to travel during this three days'
journey. Climbing mountains that were from tliree
to ^ve thousand feet high, and then down as deep on
the other side; on up a valley for a mile or two,
and then another rise like the former. We had to
wind round precipices that made the head dizzy to
look down below to the little river whose roar was
too far off to be heard at such an elevation ; and
yet, within an hour or two after, we were fording

From Boston to BxiREiLLY. 377

tliat very stream. The safest way to go is in a
'* dandy " — a sort of inclosed cliair with a pole on
either side and cross-bars at the ends ; so that six or
eight men, whose profession this is, can carry you up
and down and round all these thrilling points in
safety. They serve you for four annas (twelve and a
lialf cents) per day, and go anywhere with you. The
alternative is to ride on a ''tattu" — a long-backed
and short-legged pony. But on such a journey as this
many are too timid to venture to ride on even this
safe and reliable creature, some parts of the narrow
path being not more than thirty-six inches wide, and
so steep that you have to clutch the long mane and
liold on, lest you, saddle and all, should slip off and
go over the tattu's tail and down the precipice !

Rest houses are found at the end of each day's jour-
ney, called " Dak Bungalows," where food and shelter
can be obtained ; and welcome sights they are after
the toilsome travel of the day is over. On the third
morning we made an early start, as the Conference
was to open in the forenoon and we wished to be in
time. By eight o'clock we saw Dwarahat far off on
the side of a high mountain, but it took us nearly four
hours more to reach it. We crossed the intervening
valley and began the last ascent ; and soon after, on
turning a corner, there was Dwarahat, once famous as
one of the head-quarters of Himalayan Buddhism.
Thirteen deserted temples of that faith were right
before us, and above them stood out, clear and dis-

378 From Boston to Bareilly.

tinct, our Methodist mission buildings. There were
the church, the parsonage, the school, the dispen-
sary and hospital, for this station has a native doctor
resident. It was enough to bring a shout of joy
from heart and voice to see this blessed sight on that
grand mount, while the eternal snows of the higlier
Himalayas rose as a glorious background to the
Christian picture !

The road led from this point right up to the church.
We were a little late, and they had commenced the
opening service. The Dak Bungalow, where we
rested and spent a solitary Sabbath on our way to
Mussoorie in 1857, and from which we looked upon
these temples, and where we so earnestly prayed that
light might come into this great darkness, was on our
right hand as we ascended ; and now here we were,
"going up to the house of the Lord" in that same
Dvvarahat ! Soon we heard " the voice of singing "
coming down through the open door to meet us as we
toiled up. How good it sounded ! We first recog-
nized the tune, and then the words became distinct.
They were singing, in their own language, the hymn,

" 0, 'twas love, 'twas wondrous love,

The love of God to me 1
It brought ray Saviour from above,

To die on Calvary."

Surprised and delighted, I paused to hear the holy
strains in such a place. They seemed also such a
prophecy of the future, when even these Himalayas

From Boston to Baretlly. 379

shall resound with the joy so long foretold : " Let
the inhabitants of the rock sing, let them shout from
the top of the mountains ! " The facts and the antici-
pations were thrilling, and very appropriate to the
thoughts and feelinsrs of the moment seemed the lines
of Wordsworth :

" I listened lill I had my fill ;
And, as I mounted up the hill,
Tlie music in my heart I bore
Long after it was heard no more."

That " music " still sings in our memory, and will
so sing for many a long day to come.

We were gladly received by the brethren and sis-
ters. Fifty-six preachers, teachers, and colporteurs,
with the agents of the Woman's Foreign Missionary
Society, were here " in Conference assembled ; " and
in tlie congregation were forty-six orphan girls from
the Ladies' Orphanage at Pauri. They looked so nice
and intelligent, and devout as well. They had walked
the whole distance, eighty miles, and barefooted, too
(shoes not being considered necessary), and did it as a
privilege to attend the special religious services held
in connection with the District Conference. The
language of this mountain district being different
from that of the plains below, this Orphanage is a
necessity of our work on the Himalaj^as. Only four
American brethren are connected with this District
Conference ; all the rest of the working force is
native. One of the preachers, baptized by the name

380 From Boston to Bareilly.

of Thomas Williams, was a celebrated Fakir, but was
grandly saved, and is now a devoted servant of God
and very nsefnl.

The order of business seemed to be conducted very
thoroughly and in the best spirit. This is the
smallest of the four District Conferences, but I was
very favorably impressed with the manner and devo-
tion exhibited. I noted tliat at the early morning
service there were one hundred and twenty persons
present to pray for the blessing of God upon the
service of the day. My address to the Conference
was on ministerial fidelity, and its great reward hei'e-
after. The responses of the brethren showed fully
that I had their sympathy with me in the consecra-
tion to their high duty which I urged upon them.
Those responses fully satisfied me that these men
were animated with the true spirit of Methodist
preachers, and that they were worthy of the love and
confidence of our Church at home.

During the miscellaneous business, notwithstanding
their effort to hide from me what they were consult-
ing about, I caught a few words which intimated that
they were planning some memorial for presentation
to us, as an expression of their gratitude, and which
w^as to be furnished by the native preachers alone.
The matter had been started by the Oude District
Conference, and was now going round the other
Conferences. I rose to my feet and pleaded with
them to stop the whole thing ; declaring that I

From Boston to Bakeilly. 381

could not consent to see them, ont of their humble
allowances, and with the claims of their children for
education, and their own want of books for their
studies, going to any expense of this kind on our
behalf. But all in vain. They rose and pleaded,
even with tears, that I should not refuse their little
offering of loving gratitude. Harkua — one of the
orphan bojs, who is a doctor as well as a preacher —
most tenderly reminded me of the past, and said :
" Sahib, you are our father ; to you we are indebted
for what we are to-day ; you surely w^ont decline the
humble memorial of our gratitude and affection."
He broke down and took his seat weeping. So I had
to submit, or I should have made every man of them
unhappy. Yery glad they became when I yielded
consent. And yet, there are some people who w^onder
if the heathen are capable of gratitude ! They carried
out their purpose, and at the Annual Conference at
Cawnpore, in December, the presentation w^as made,
after the w^liole group of us were photographed to-
gether, Joel being placed at my right hand. A beauti-
ful silver cup to Mrs. Butler, with an Oxford Bible
for myself, on the fly-leaves of which the native
preachers had written their names, w^as their memo-
rial. The resolutions which passed so cordially at
this District Conference I need not present, but they
will be cherished among my treasures as long as I
live. How little I imagined, much as I expected
from them, when I took up those dear boys that I

382 From Boston to Bareilly.

should live to see such a day as this as the result !
Again, thanks be to God for his mercies !

Those thirteen temples which stand below our mis-
sion are all in the usual Buddhist style — massive cut-
stone erections. Thirteen temples without one wor-
sliiper. " The Light of Asia " has gone out forever
here. On the continent of India, the birthplace and
triumph scene of that faith, you find no worshiper at
Gautama-Buddha's shrine. A prolonged and bloody
persecution, many hundred years ago, exterminated
that religion from the land of its birth, and you can
only find the system in foreign countries, from
Ceylon to Siam. But the great ruins still remain.
"When at Benares we went out to see the Top at
Sarnath, the most venerable and leading monument
of the Buddhist faith, and found an English engi-
neer with a staff of workmen engaged in putting
supports and buttresses around the huge pile to keep
it from tumbling down. Another Englishman, Ed-
win Arnold, lately gave the w^orld an evidence of
his skill in propping up this poor, godless system of
religious opinion. It seems a pity that he was not
candid enough to give his readers a view of what
lies beneath the gilded surface of the hopeless faith
which he attempts to eulogize. Especially should he
have put a picture of the highest agency of their de-
votions on his title-page in the form of the " praying
machine," which is used by them so extensively in
their homes and temples! But that, though the

From Boston to Bareilly. 383

sad and solemn result of the system, would have
made people laugh at its absurdity, and the author
of " The Light of Asia " preferred to act as do cer-
tain other artists with the repulsive objects which
the facts in the scene before them presents to view,
when

" Whate'er offends the sense,

The painter casts discreetly into shade."

Certainly the day of judgment will have no re-
wards to confer upon writers of this class, for such
services as these. Poor Burmah, w^ith a savage
murderer on the throne, whom the English govern-
ment cannot hold diplomatic intercourse with, on
account of his enormous barbarity, even toward his
own flesh and blood, is a poor recommendation of the
civilization produced by "The Light of Asia;" and
yet no nation is more orthodox in its Buddhism than
is that dark and bleeding land ; and the monster
emperor was raised and educated a priest of the sys-
tem, and knows it well. There was a report that his
majesty, or the king of Siam, was about to confer
the honor of " The Order of the White Elephant "
upon the author of " The Light of Asia," for the
service rendered in commending their system to the
favorable opinion of Christendom. The regalia of
the dignity will not, however, be counted a very high
honor, when that time comes — as come it will — when
the temples in all Buddhist lands are as completely
deserted of their worshipers as are the thirteen which

384 From Boston to Bareilly.

stand so lonely beneath the Methodist mission at
Dwarahat ! " That day shall dawn," as sure as the
promises of God, because, in blessed reality,

" The Light of the world is Jesus ! "

And of him every teacher of men will have to say, as
he bows the knee, " He must increase, but I must
decrease;" because, "He that cometh from heaven
is above all."

The following Sabbath was spent at Almora,
the place, thirty miles from Nynee Tal, to which we
had to fly on that weary Sabbath in 1857 when we
were so suddenly ordered off, under the apprehension
that Khan Bahadur's troops were to storm our posi-
tion that day or the next. It w^as a great pleasure,
once more, to meet General Sir Henry liamsay. Com-
missioner of Kumaon, that noble friend of our mis-
sion, whose liberality to our work stands almost
equal to that of General Gowan. Their munificence
must ever hold aij honored place in the history of our
missions in India, and will, no doubt, receive its
reward from our divine Master "in that day."

One of the sights of Almora is the Leper Asy-
lum, founded by the London Missionary Society,
and sustained by the government. Leprosy in India,
unlike that of Syria, is a dry leprosy, and not usually
considered contagious. But it mutilates as surely as
the other. The ears, lips, nose, toes, and fingers rot
off, and leave the poor victim hideously deformed

From Boston to Bareilly. 385

and wretched. Christian sympathy has collected to-
gether from all parts of the district these poor creat-
ures, and has surrounded them witli such comforts
as their condition requires, instead of having them
occupy the highways and expose their miseries in
order to obtain a living. A large piece of ground
was given and inclosed, a garden planted, suitable
homes provided with proper supervision and medical
help, a place of worship was added ; sufficent funds
are voted for support, so that every want is provided
for. On the Sabbath afternoon I went over and
preached for them, the Rev. Mr. Budden kindly
translating for me. Of the one hundred and twenty
on the premises, more than sixty are regular attend-
ants at worship, and twenty-five of these are commu-
nicants ; twenty of the members have been tauglit to
read. Only one of them remembered me as having
been there before. One of them was a blind man,
whose face was so pleasant that it was a study.
"When the hour of service arrived they came in.
The floor was covered with mats, and they seated
themselves on them, in regular rows, all doing their
best to conceal tlieir deformity, especially of the nose
and lips, by shading with the hand. The r^ffders
and church members sat in the front rows. It was
very affecting to see the readers, as they followed the
minister in the Scripture lessons, try to turn the
page with the heel of tJie hand, the fingers being

gone. There was no singing, the loss of the lips for-
25

386 From Boston to Baeeilly.

bidding it. I spoke from Luke iv, on the sympathy
of the Lord Jesus for people of their class, and his will-
ingness and ability to cleanse them from a more deadly
leprosy than any that can afflict the body. They gave
excellent attention to what I said, and especially w^hen
I spoke of the glorious change which would be theirs,
if they loved and served God, when, on the resurrec-
tion morn, he would "change their vile bodies and
make them like unto his own glorious body." As I
said this it brought to my mind an incident in the
life of Robert Hall, the great Baptist minister of
England, whose mental aberrations occasionally in-
volved him in awkward situations. It is related of
him that, in an evening party where he was present, he
fixed his gaze so earnestly on a lady sitting opposite
to him as to distress her. She was remarkable, not for
beauty, but for the want of it. Unable to endure his
gaze any longer, she expostulated and asked him what
he meant by it ; when he replied, with a charming
candor : that he " was trying to study out what an
amazing change for the better the morning of the
resurrection would make in her personal appearance !"
So, at least, I thought of my audience at Almora.
What change, what compensation, will " that day " be
to those of them, w^lio die, as Mr. Budden assured me
a few of them have already died, trusting in Christ !
I thought it might be a ray of comfort to them to
hear the case of Laura Bridgman, of South Boston,
and show them how she, with all her natural disad-

From Boston to Barp:illy. 387

vantages, became a true Cliristian and a cultured
ladj. I told tliem of her, that she never saw, never
heard, never spoke — sight, hearing, and speech hav-
ing been denied her — and jet she became a happy
Christian. They looked up with such interest, and
when I put the question whether, in view of the fact
that they had all their senses, and could hear, see,
and speak, they had not some advantages over her
for which they could be grateful, they turned to each
other, and the poor, dull faces lit up into something
of a smile as they nodded to one another and assented
to the idea that they had something loft to be grate-
ful for. I may have strained the point in trying to
comfort them, but their countenances showed I suc-
ceeded in my effort. Even here the value of our Or-
phanages comes again into view. The devoted couple
who have charge of this institution were educated
by us at Bareilly and Shahjahanpore. She was one of
the original orphan girls, and was trained by Dr.
Humphrey as a medical woman. lie was educated
as a teacher, and became a local preacher. Tliey ac-
cepted the position here, and so these one hundred
and twenty lepers have the instruction and medical
and religious care which they require resident witli
them. The government medical commission, w4iich
comes round once in five years on a tour of inspec-
tion, wrote in their report regarding this institution
the significant words, " Content and even pleasant."
In returning to Nynee Tal, on our way to the Plains

388 From Boston to Bareilly.

again, we passed bj the point where, on that Sunday
night of our flight (referred to on page 384), my horse
hung for a few moments, in the darkness, on the
verge of that awful precipice, where only the Divine
hand saved us both from being dashed to pieces. In
this journey one climbs up out of narrow valleys and
to the summits of high mountains (running east and
west) on large spaces of which the sun never shone
since tlie creation. He cannot get round them to
touch them with his rays. You ride out of the warui
air into these stretches of damp, chilly atmosphere —
miles long sometimes — where you must wrap up or
run the risk of taking serious colds. The trees, which
grow in such gloomy localities, are loaded with a hair-
like moss, hanging down from one to three feet in
length, as if nature there was draped in mourning.
You come out again into '^ the blessed sunlight," more
than ever grateful for its cheer and life-imparting
power.

In leaving Nynee Tal for Moradabad we went
down on the west side, and visited our other Chris-
tian village at the foot of the hills. The place is
named Isanagar (the home of Jesus), and has a
Christian population of nearly one hundred souls.
Rev. Thomas Gowan — the third orphan boy whom I
received — has charge of this circuit, with live appoint-
ments and several schools, and is grandly aided by his
good wife, Florence (one of the orphan girls). Thomas
met us at the foot of the hills, and was our guide into

From Boston to Bareilly. 389

the Bliabur. When we came in siglit of the place, and
the villagers saw their pastor and ourselves corning,
they shouted the news to each other across the fields ;
and it was a sight to see them unyoke their bullocks
and leave the plows in the furrows and hurry across to
intercept us on the road to welcome us. The animals
were soon put up, and, knowing 1 had but a few
hours to stay with them, they came just as they were
to the tent (the gift of General Kamsay), which they
use as a chapel, and I preached to them from the text,
"Have ye received the Holy Ghost since ye be-
lieved ? " Some one exhorted after me, and, before
we were aware, we had glided into a pleasant love-
feast and had a good time. Then they served us with
a hearty dinner of rice and curry, and in half an hour
after I was preaching to them again. About forty of
the heathen around had crowded in and listened with
deepest attention to all that was said. Now this en-
tire enterprise is self-sustaining, and never cost our
Missionary Society a dollar. The people are very
poor, but they are slowly rising, and are also doing
what they can for the support of their pastor, paying
in kind, like the other Christian village near Shahja-
hanpore. If some goo.d man or woman woukl build
them a little chapel, what a benediction it would be !
They were so loving and kind, I was greatly delighted
with them.

Moradabad, forty miles south, was our next point.
Here was where I had that struggle to obtain our dear

390 FfiOM Boston to Bareilly.

girls. At that time our congregation at this place
was an illustration of how we were shut up. How
dark and forbidding the prospect was ! About two
women and twenty-five men constituted the usual con-
gregation here. Now the congregation is one of the
largest in the Conference, and the majority are wom-
en. Besides the church at the mission premises,
they have a church in the very center of the city,
which is admirably arranged and commodious, and
has a tower and clock upon it. On the Sabbath it is
filled. The galleries are latticed, so that zenana ladies
can come in their palanquins, and go up and be en-
tirely to themselves, looking down tlirough the lattices
on the audience below without themselves being seen,
and yet hearing all that is said. This was Brother and
Sister Parker's idea, and on several occasions they
have drawn out the ladies to see an illustrated lecture
on some Scripture theme, or other entertainment —
quite an event in their poor secluded lives, and which
will lead to something better and more freedom ere
long. What hard, devoted work Brother and Sister
Parker have put into this mission since they came to
India in 1859, and what a monument their success is
to them to-day ! Long may their efiicient and faith-
ful services be spared to our work in India !

The schools established here by Bev. J. T. and
Mrs. Goucher, of Baltimore, are already a great power
for good, and are destined to aid in developing the
work of God in Bohilcund to an extent that will, no

From Boston to Bareilly. 391

doubt, be a joy to them forever. Shulukh and Jane
Plurner (two of the original band of orphan girls
trained as female physicians) are here earning a com-
fortable support by their medical practice. We vis-
ited the Dispensary, and were greatly pleased to Und
two of our girls so honorably and usefully employed.
The best singing we had yet heard in our mission
was what we listened to here. They have in the city
one thousand and seventy-one Sunday-school scholars,
and raised the banner collection for the Missionary
Society of all the native Churches, the amount being
eighty-nine rupees. The list lies before me, and
Beems to include most of the members of the Church,
and the amount contributed runs from about two
dollars to three cents each. Brother Gill told us that
some of his people contributed to the collection a full
week's salary ; two or three gave two weeks, and one
gave a month's pay. Well done, Moradabad native
Church ! A good old man, by the name of Kundan,
came in twice from the district, walking forty miles
each time, to see and welcome us. With tears he
" thanked God that he had lived to see the day when
Dr. Butler came back to India," and then he turned
and requested our prayers on behalf of his wife, w^ho
is still unconverted. He is the old man who is so
fond of the hymn,

" I lea it all with Jesus."

By a rising vote the congregation requested me to
send their salaam (loving regards) to the members

392 Feom Boston to Bareilly.

of our Church in the Mexican Mission, with their
hearty wishes for their w^elfare and Christian fidelity.
Here, too, I had the privilege of baptizing quite a
number of babies, the children of our former orphan
girls; the grateful mothers being so pleased that I
should do this for them that it was really a delight
to gratify them. And here let me say, w^hile refer-
ring to these India babies, that I feel assured I am
not at all mistaken when I declare I never saw such
w^ell conducted babes in any part of the world as
are those in India. The mothers are zealous about
attending the means of grace, and do not think that
having a baby excuses them from doing so. Not one
in twenty of them is able to afford to keep any help
(cheap though that help is there), so, unless they h? ve
an older child able to take charge of the little one in
their absence, if they are to attend worship they must
take the baby with them. I have seen fifteen tc
twenty of these babies in an audience, and I was con-
stantly surprised to w^itness how good and quiet they
were. Sometimes a whole service would go over
without a single cry being heard ; and even when
one of them would begin to whimper (and it seldom
rose above that), and the mother could not hush it to
silence, she would leave with it, but in ten minutes
return with the pacified little one, and there would be
no further trouble or disturbance from them. They
certainly are an example to all the babies of Christen-
dom that I have ever seen for good behavior in the

From Boston to Bareilly. 393

house of God ! As little ones they are handsome.
Their warm olive color prevents them showing any
paleness, and their little bright, black eyes, shining
like animated diamonds, give them a very pleasing
aspect.

Our next visit was to Budaon, lying south-east from
Moradabad, and thirty miles from Bareilly. This
was the first place in India in which I administered
the sacrament of the Lord's Supper. A few days
after my arrival at Bareilly, in 1857, 1 received a note
from the English judge of Budaon (the only white
man in that district of eight hundred thousand peo-
ple) requesting me to visit Budaon and give a Sab-
bath service to his family. At that time there was
no made road from Bareilly to Budaon over which a
carriage could run ; so the judge arranged to bring
me through by sending out a couple of elephants,
w^hich he had stationed at suitable distances, and on
tlieir backs I went over the thirty miles in about six
hours. I spent a very interesting Sabbath with this
pious Episcopalian family, and ministered-to them in
holy things, but had little idea in what peril they
would find themselves within six weeks of that visit,
and how wonderfully God was to work out the deliv-
erance of each of them, though separated from each
other in the confusion. The facts are given in The
Land of the Veda.

Now I am returning, twenty-seven years after, to
that city and district, to see what God has wrought

304 From Boston to Bareilly.

meanwhile. After the Sepoy Eebellion I went through
the tow^ns of that district, and cannot cease to remem-
ber the intense solicitude with which I surveyed that
region of spiritual darkness. I never offered more
earnest supplication to God for any object than I did,
as I went prospecting around through these villages
and towns, that God might have mercy upon the long-
benighted nniltitudes, and raise up there Christian
Churches and an indigenous agency of leaders, local
preachers, Sunday-school workers, etc. I distinctly
remember going over just such enumeration, and then
realizing keenly how naked my faith was, not a soul
of them having yet heard of the Gospel ; but still I
clung, in an agonizing desire, to the blessed hope that
lie who could " call the things \vhich are not as
though they were," would, in his infinite compassion
and mercy, bring about this result. He heard these
jjrayers ; how he answered them the facts will show.
The brethren kept saying to us, in the south-east of
our mission (in and around Lucknow), as they saw
our delight w^ith what we witnessed, "O, wait till
you reach Eohilcund, and you wnll see the strength
of Methodism there." In company w^ith the presid-
ing elder. Brother Thomas, w^e went to Budaon, to
attend the Quarterly Conference. I had no adequate
idea, before going, how^ developed Christianity had
become throughout that circuit, and they might well
anticipate how surprised and delighted I w^ould be
at the sight of that Quarterly Conference.

From Boston to Bareilly. 395

On entering the place where tlie Conference was
assembled I saw iifty-seven members — seven of them
being ladies — awaiting us. In my day fifty-seven
persons were regarded a goodly number as a congre-
gation ; but here was that number now of official
brethren and sisters — class-leaders, Sunday-school su-
perintendents, local preachers, and other officers of
our Church in that Budaon Circuit. I have not seen
a more devout and orderly Quarterly Conference any-
where. The business proceeded in full disciplinary
style. Every part of the work was well represented,
the reports, generally prepared and written, were
clear, zealous, and spiritual — the substance being
translated to me as they proceeded. To show how
the Gospel is penetrating this population I quote a
sentence of one of their reports. The native preacher
said : " I have twenty-seven villages in my sub-cir-
cuit, and Christians in every one of them." Here,
too, the cause has become so strong that our people
are able to hold their temporal position notwith-
standing they have become the followers of Christ.
Hitherto they generally had to surrender position, re-
lations, and proj^erty when they became Christians ;
and many who desired to follow their example were
deterred from doing so by the fearful sacrifices which
these had to endure. But a better day is dawning,
and a more rapid extension of the work will be the
certain result, as well as a higher ability to support
the cause which will be espoused. ,

396 From Boston to Baeeilly.

The seven female members of the Quarterly Con-
ference— all educated women, and in that respect
occupying a higher intellectual position than the
average of the members of that Conference — were,
with some exceptions, members of the normal class
of the Orphanage. The reports of their quarter's
work were rendered with a clearness and style that
was a credit to their training. I looked at them
with surprise and gratitude to God. There was
more in that Quarterly Conference than I had, at the
first sight of it, supposed ; and it was manifest that
our Methodistic system suited them exactly. They
evidently appreciated it, and could work it well.
Surely the future was here provided for. Our cause,
as a precious system of evangelism, could be safely
intrusted to hands like these. It was the ripest prod-
net of our disciplinary methods which I had yet seen
in India, and impressed me intensely, and intimated
such a future that my whole heart went out to them
in loving confidence. Here my feelings nearly over-
came me, and I found I was sobbing aloud before I
could get control of myself. What a full heart of
gratitude to God was mine that hour, and what a
blessed hope of the glorious future which seemed so
sure to come through the faithful services of these
devoted brethren and sisters and their successors !

It was easy for me now to fully appreciate the ap-
peal of Dr. Waugh when, after pointing out to me
the conviction of our missionaries that our Gospel

From Boston to Bareilly. 397

had so penetrated the minds of the people of this
district, by means of our itinerant preaching through
their villages and in the bazaars, and by our schools
and the circulation of the Holy Scriptures and our
Christian books and tracts, it is held as a convic-
tion by all here that they are on the eve of a mighty
movement, in which immense masses of these people
may one day abandon idolatry forever, and slide
down, like an avalanche, toward Christianity, and en-
treat that they be instructed and saved. They have
lost faith in a system which they have trusted so
long, but from which they have derived no saving
benefit. They plainly see their Christian neigh-
bors are better and more enlightened than them-
selves ; and the only thing now needed is to get
before their minds that the reason of this difference
is made by the grace of the Holy Spirit, which these
people have received by faith in the Lord Jesus
Christ. How suddenly, and savingly too, this
change may come to multitudes of them was being
illustrated (March, 1885), as these sheets were pass-
ing through the press, at the great mela at Adjudia ;
where in three days two hundred and forty-eight
men and women (one half of them Bralimans) were
led to Christ under the preaching and testimony of
two of our native ministers! This is, probably,
the most wonderful religious fact that has taken
place in India, and shows the divine power there is
in the argument from exjperience^ when presented in

398 From Boston to Bareilly.

faith and witli a loving heart to these people bj men
who are themselves converted and full of the Holy
Spirit.

The appeal made by Dr. Waugli was based upon
considerations of this character. But he startled me
when he asked, what was our mission to do when
this breaking-down time came, and these multitudes,
whom they had so long been instructing, would yield
and turn to them for help and instruction in seeking
salvation ? I did not comprehend at first what diffi-
culty stood in the way of the mission doing all that
was necessary to help them and utilize such a glorious
opportunity. But the doctor asked me to look at the
condition of their work and say, where was the man
whom they could spare from existing labors to go to
the help of those people were they to appeal to them
to-morrow? Every missionary and native preacher
and leader they have is already under all the tension
they can bear to fulfill the duties laid on them by the
Annual Conference. For new work, no matter how
energetic or important, they have neither the men
nor the means. They are crowded already by their
success! They have appealed again and again for
more financial aid in order to educate the young men
whom God has given them, and get them ready for
the enlargement of their work. But the Missionary
Society is unable to respond, and so half of this pre-
cious material is not utilized, and they are looking
forward with anxious hearts to a demand upon them

* From Boston to Bareilly. 399

which they know tliey are not able to meet with-
out abandoning existing work, which is not to be
thouglit of.

Will the Metliodist Episcopal Church allow this
serious condition of things to continue? Are not
the reraainder of these twenty million of souls, " for
whom Christ died," as valuable as are the few thou-
sands whom we have already won from among them ?
Will not our people provide for the rising wants and
wide extension of their mission in India, and espe-
cially while God is working so graciously and bidding
them "Go forward''? Surely they will do so, for
the present demand is the result of their own praying
and liberality. They implored God to remove every
obstruction out of the path of his Gospel in that
land, and open a way for the salvation of tliose mill-
ions, so that his Son might have magnificent India
" for his inheritance ; " and up to the measure of
their liberality, and far beyond it, has He blessed
their work for him. ISTow he makes further appeal
for more means to accomplish " greater things tlian
these." Will the Church be wortliy of her Lord and
his leading ? Will she brinof " the tithes into tlie
store-house . . . and prove" him tlierewith " to open the
windows of heaven, and pour " them " out a blessing
that there shall not be room enough to receive it?''
If so, the scale of average liberality must soon become
very different from what it is to-day. An average
of forty cents each for the redemption of tlie world

400 From Boston to Bareilly.

is a poor evidence of a serious purpose on the part
of a Church to bring the woi'ld to God ! Were the
average contribution from our people four or five
dollars each, then, indeed, we might begui to look
np, for our redemption would be drawing nigh, and
the millennium would be dawning upon the world !
The "million of dollars," now anticipated with so
much interest, is liberal, but it is only so in com-
parison with the past niggardly giving. God is very
patient with us in condescending to accept hitherto
such poor offerings at our hands. But does he not
expect '• the tithes " to be brought in, and can he
be satisfied with less, if less will not suffice to save
the world? He certainly does, and requires at our
hands " the firstlings of our flock and the fat there-
of" to be laid upon his altar in consecration to
this, the supreme duty and service of his Church.
He wants, in addition to our money, our cultured
and precious sons and daughters, to be given up for
his glorious service. He "gave his own Son" to
the same work, and he expects our children to be
consecrated to it. O for a baptism of liberality
npon the people of God, that they may in deed
and in truth render to the Lord what they so often
profess to do when they sing :

" ' Here., at that cross where flows the blood
That bought my guilty soul for God,
Thee, my new Master, now I call,
And consecrate to thee my alV "

From Boston to Bareilly, 401

After tliis solemn engagement, made in our better
moments, how serious if we go back on tliat conse-
cration, and sliow, by our want of liberality, that we
did not 7nean what we said to God !

One of the female members of that Quarterly
Conference has a remarkable history. She was the
little daughter of people w^ell to do, and was stolen
one evening by thieves for the sake of the ornaments
that she had on her person. Kext morning she was
found, utterly destitute, by a native policeman, and by
him was taken to the court of the English magistrate,
who, unable to find her friends, sent the poor little
waif to the missionary. Brother Hoskins, who for-
warded her to Bareilly, where she was received into
the Orphanage. In a few years she developed into ii
young woman of such culture that she was sent to
Budaon to be employed as a Bible woman. One day,
in visiting the houses of that city to read and explain
the Scriptures to the women, she entered one where
an old lady sat in the corner of a room. Something
about the face and voice of the young visitor startled
the old woman. She gazed and listened till she could
endure no more, and, rushing across the apartment,
laid her hands on the girl, and eagerly asked her :
" Are you not the daughter of Luchman, the gold-
smith?" It was the grandmother. Identification
followed, and they rejoiced over the recovery of the
lost one whom they had mourned as dead. Even her

Christianity was found no serious bar to their revived
26

402 From Boston to Bareilly.

love. They could not but admire the nice, educated
girl that stood before them, whom Christianity had
saved, and for whom it had done so much ; so she was
taken to their heart again, Christianity and all. Eliz-
abeth (her baptismal name) soon after was married
to the son of Samuel, one of our first preachers, and
whose triumphant death at Shahjahanpore has been
often referred to. Elizabeth's husband is also a
preacher, and at present a candidate for admission
into the local ministry.

In connection with this station there occurred, in
its early history, a fact that was unique of its kind,
and the results of which I was interested enough to
inquire into on this occasion. A man by the name of
Presgrave, about the close of the year 1859, came un-
der the influence of the Gospel, and applied for bap-
tism and admission into the Church on probation.
On inquiry we found that he had two wives, and we
told him it w^as out of our power to receive him in
that condition. He pleaded that the entire family
w^ere ready and willing to come with him into Chris-
tianity, and he wanted them to be received along with
himself without disturbing their relations. He seemed
so honest and earnest that we felt much for him, but
explained to him that, under the Christian law of
marriage, we could not baptize and receive either
himself or them in their present relations. He be-
came greatly distressed, but, after much conversation
upon the matter, declared his willingness to give up

From Boston to Bareilly. 403

his polygamy, and live with one wife only, and was
even willing to be married to that one by Christian
rites. This brought up the question as to which of the
two he should retain, and he appealed to us to decide
this matter for him. I shrank from such a respon-
sibihty, and told him he must decide this question for
himself. They were both equally his wives by the
law of his former religion, and they had married him
in good faith. The ease was even more difficult than
this. His first wife, to whom he was much attached,
had brought him no children, and she pined under
this privation, chiefly on his account. She knew
that Menu, in his Institutes of Hindu Law^ had or-
dained that, under such a condition of things, a second
marriage was a sort of duty, so that the husband
might have a son to officiate at his shraad (the funeral
ceremonies), in order to insure for the father a happy
transmigration. This idea prevails all over India,
and is, after all, the leading reason for a second
marriage.

The first and childless wife herself sno^orested tliis
course to her husband, and declared that she would
regard the children born of the second marriage as
her own, and love them as such. He accordingly took
another wife, and fi\Q children were the fruit of the
second marriage. It was after the eldest daughter
of that marriage had grown up and was herself a wife
that this contact with Christianity occurred. In re-
sponse to his earnest request that we should decide for

404: From Boston to Bareilly.

liim, we urged liiin to return home and settle this se-
rious question after full consideration with all con-
cerned. He went, and, I presume, did his best, but
failed to reach a conclusion in which thej could all
agree. Willing to do right, but unable to see the
way to accomplish it, in view of the conflicting hearts
and interests involved, the distracted husband and fa-
ther loaded the whole family on his bullock-cart and
came to Bareilly. I wa& called in from my vrork one
day to find the entire circle in the sitting-room. The
father opened the subject by stating that they had
tried to settle the matter among themselves, but had
not been able to do so, and so he had brought them
all in to have us aid them to a conclusion. The cru-
cial question was, which of the wives should be dis-
carded ? I anxiously looked up to the Lord for wis-
dom in the emergency, and soon found myself ap-
pealed to as judge in the matter by both sides. It was
pathetic to the last degree to hear them, and especially
the two poor wives, pleading their own claims. The
first and oldest urged that she had been a true and
faithful wife to her husband all her married life, and,
though God had denied her the children she longed to
have, especially for his sake, yet her fidelity and af-
fection ought to plead for her in this hour, so that she
might not become the discarded one. Then the other
wife urged her claims, not only love and duty faith-
fully performed, but also the five children that she
had brought to him, and pleaded with tears that she

From Boston to Bareilly. 405

ought not to be tlie one rejected. 'No word of bitter-
ness or recrimination was uttered by either party.
All spoke under the sense of the heavy sacrifice which
Christianity was then demanding of tliem, and also
with full respect for the feelings and convictions of
the husband and father. The children sat looking on
with an anxious and foreboding aspect that was pain-
ful to contemplate. All the time my heart was going
up in prayer for the merciful intervention of Him
whose holy and inflexible law was requiring this sac-
rifice from those who would be his followers, so that
we might be guided wisely, and without any compro-
mise which he would reject, from out of the midst of
these painful and intricate circumstances into which
their false religion had led them.

I felt a strong hope that, in view of the hus-
band's manifest anxiety to do what was right before
God, the merciful One above would not leave us in
this terrible perplexity, but, in some way or other,
would cause " light to rise upon this obscurity." But
I could not imagine how it was to be done. It is
often said thaf "man's extremity is God's oppor-
tunity."- It certainly was so here ; for, when the
pleadings were ceasing, and the solemn silence was
creeping over us, and each heart seemed hushed to
listen for the decision which must come now from
some quarter to solve the difficulty and save the
whole effort from a confusion and collapse that would
surely sacrifice the future peace ,and love of this anx-

406 From Boston to Bareilly.

ious family, and effectually impede their conversion
to Christianity, then help seemed to come from
heaven. The eldest daughter of the second wife,
herself married, and with her babe on her bosom,
stirred by an impulse that seemed to impel her to
most decided action, rose to her feet and crossed the
room to the sad and weeping first wife, and tenderly
addressing her, said, " Mother, I have now a home of
my own, and if you will only consent to be the dis-
carded one, so that my father may be able to carry
out his religious convictions, I will take you to my
heart and home, and I will be a loving daughter to
you all the days of your life!" Love solved the
whole difficulty. The old woman threw her arms
round the neck of the dear girl and crossed the room
with her to sit by her side, and the matter was settled
without another word being spoken. We all sat in
tears to see this wonderful, merciful, and even beau-
tiful solution of one of the most unique and painful
difficulties in which a number of human hearts could
be entangled ! The feelings of all parties were saved
and honored, God's law was complied with, and the
whole family received into Christianity and its holy
relations. I made inquiry during my late visit as to
the results, and was particularly pleased to find at the
Bohilcund camp-meeting the son of the family (one of
those sad and anxious children who had there to pass
through this terrible ordeal) was in attendance as a
candidate for admission to the office of local preacher.

From Boston to Bareilly. 407

From Budaon we went on to attend the camp-meet-
ing at Chandausi. Tliis is our largest camp-meeting
in India. As we stood at the station with our com-
pany, waiting for the arrival from Bareilly, it was
delightful when the train approached to hear the en-
thusiastic singing of the crowd on board — our orphan
girls helping so grandly. How it reminded me of
such scenes at home. But it was far more significant
there! It contrasted so grandly with the somber mood
and joyless aspect generally exhibited by the people
around, who have nothing in their religion to make
them happy. They would stop and listen with sur-
prise to these joyful Christians, then pass on, wonder-
ing what all this meant. But they will learn some
day, and may it be soon !

The camp was pitched in a grove owned by a
friendly Hindu. Eight hundred native Methodists
wei'e on the ground. Instead of tents, which our
poor people could not afford, the requisite shelter was
provided by booths, made of boughs of trees and
grass, for which about half a rupee (twenty cents) rent
was charged. Each sheltered a family, and was suffi-
cient for shade, though they would not turn rain off
if it occurred at that time of the year (early Decem-
ber), which it does not. Tiie scene was very interest-
ing, and was a good copy of the "Feast of Taber-
nacles " in other days.

The first two days were given to District Confer-
ence work, with morning and evening public services,

408 From Boston to Baeeilly.

tliat at the close of the Conferences glided into the
camp-meeting proper, which closed on Sunday night
following. In this case there were three District
Conferences held on tlie ground, the Rohilcund Con-
ference, the Amroha Conference, and the Conference
of the Woman's Foreign Missionary Society ; the
presidents of each being Rev. D. W. Thomas, Rev.
Zahur-ul-Huqq, and Miss Fanny Sparkes. The first and
List were held in large tents, but Brother Iluqq's Con-
ference (it being the cool season of the year, when the
natives feel the cold more than we do) preferred to
hold theirs in the open air, where they could sit in
the sun. It was unique to see them seated on the
ground, native fashion, so content, with only the canopy
of heaven over them, going thus orderly through all
the forms and duties of a Methodist District Con-
ference.

Every person in the service of either Society, no
matter how humble the sphere of duty, is required
to attend their Conference, to represent their work,
to pass examination in character, appear b0Ct)re tlie
committees on the prescribed studies of each year, as
well as to receive the religious lielp and benefit of the
camp-meeting which follows the Conferences. The
supervision of our work in India is complete to the
fullest degree. The visitations of the presiding el-
ders are regular and effective, and thus there is not a
dollar expended on our work there but they know
w^here it is and what it is doing for the Church. I

From Boston to Bareilly. 409

went round from one Conference to another, filled
with admiration of the thorough manner in which the
Discipline is administered in the North India Confer-
ence. Yes, indeed, these men " mean business," and
that business is " well done." From the ordained el-
der of the legal (Annual) Conference, stationed within
the limits of these District Conferences, down to the
humble colporteurs, here they were assembled for
the transaction and oversight of the Lord's work com-
mitted to tlieir charge. I took the numbers of the
membership of each Conference from its secretary
and found that there were :

In the Rohilciind Conference 125 members.

In the Amroha Conference 44 "

In the Ladies' Conference 95 "

A total working force of 264 persons.

And this is over and above the male and female Dis-
trict Conferences of Kumaon and Oude. In fact, there
are seven District Conferences within the bounds of
the North India Conference, four of the parent Board
and three of the Woman's Foreign Missionary Soci-
ety. They meet at the same time and place, and co-
operate together most kindly and harmoniously, act-
ing freely and independently for what concerns their
own specific work, and yet in unity and mutual assist-
ance for all that concerns the common interests of the
Church within their bounds.

The missionary ladies have a regular Manual^ con-

410 Feom Boston to Baeeilly.

taining their Constitution, Enles of Order, By-laws,
and Specified Courses of Study for four years, obliga-
tory upon their lady missionaries and assistants, their
Bible women, school teachers, and zenana visitors.
Their rules are faithfully applied at these Conferences,
and one of them is strict enough to lay down the law,
that any lady missionary unable or unwilling to ac-
quire the language and pass the examinations in the
vernacular course of study shall be reported to the
executive committee at home, so that she may be re-
called. The result is a general efficiency, that makes
them worthy to stand by the side of the missionaries
of the parent Board. There is thus a proper founda-
tion for a real respect and confidence, which is very
pleasant; and this, joined with the loyalty of the
lady missionaries to the Church and its constituted
authorities in India, enables them to toil together in
the same stations without friction, and with sincere
appreciation and mutual help. The Annual Confer-
ence draws all together under its kind and efficient
supervision.

I was delayed somewhat in reaching the camp-
ground, and found on arrival that the general service,
where all three Conferences had met together to im-
plore the blessing of the Lord upon their work, had
commenced. The hymn was over and they had gone
to prayer. Hurrying across to the big tent, I heard
the voice that was leading the devotions within. I
did not need to ask those with me whose voice that

From Boston to Baeetlly. 411

was ! It was eigliteen years since I heard it last, but
liow quickly I knew it, and how my heart throbbed
to hear it! It was Brother e/b^^ / Quietly entering
behind the pulpit, I remained unobserved by any one
till he had ended and they rose up again. I suppose,
according to the proprieties, I ought to have waited
till the service had concluded before hailing and sa-
luting my dear old helper. But I could not wait.
Before the presiding elder could give out the next
hymn I had rushed across the tent to where Joel
was sitting, and, laying my hands on his shoulders, I
looked into those sightless eyes and kissed his fore-
head, exclaiming, '' Dear Joel ! " I felt his whole
frame thrill with joj'. He was on his feet in a mo-
ment, and we were clasped in each other's arms, our
hearts beating responsively each to the other. Tlie
elder had to wait; nobody could sing; every one
was moved, and the native preachers were in tears
around us. Perhaps they will never forget it. There
is nothing like love. It wins and conquers hearts
anywhere on earth. That scene did those native
brethren much good. It satisfied them that fidelity
to the Church and to God was the true way to be ap-
preciated and loved. I sat during the sermon with
my arm round this " true yoke-fellow," and my mind
was busy with the past, when he stood so faithfully
by my side amid the toil and trials of our work when
we were so few and feeble. The only shade over this
joyful meeting was his inability to see me. He felt

412 Feom Boston to Baeeilly.

if lie could only look into my face, even for one min-
ute, he would be satisfied. Poor fellow ! how I sym-
pathized wdth his yearning heart in the desire for
what could not be now, but will surely be hereafter.

When the service was over the rest of the brethren
and sisters crowded round and we had a glad time
together. They looked at us with astonishment and
delight, as they realized how far we had come to see
them all once more. Of course our pleasure was
greatly heightened by meeting Joel's daughters. The
eldest, who is married, is almost as beautiful as her
dear mother, the gentle Emma, wliom my good
wife regarded as one of the loveliest women she had
seen in India. And now, here were the little babies
of twenty years ago, grown up into such sweet
maidenhood. The eldest is well married to one who
is wortliy of her, and whose means enable her to be
generous to the Lord's work. She does a good
deal of service for tlie Ladies' Society in zenana
visitation, as a voluntary agent and without accepting
any earthly recompense. She must be very efficient,
being so well educated and so lady-like and Christian
in lier spirit.

The business of all these District Conferences is,
of course, carried on in the Ilindustanee language.
The Hindus are a courteous race, and this was ex-
hibited in their Conference discussions and the respect
they showed for the rules which governed their as-
semblies. It was pleasing to hear so frequently the

From Boston to Bareilly. 413

words, as tliej addressed the chair, " Mir mugles
sahib ! " (Mr. president.) The order kept was ex-
cellent and their conduct gentlemanly toward each
other.

Twelve new local preachers were accepted from
the ranks of the exhorters; but, after a yerj strict
scrutiny in each case, one or two, who had come up
for admission, were rejected on account of not hav-
ing passed good examinations, and were sent back to
their books for one year more. Another was rejected
for having whipped his wife. The poor fellow, with
apparent sincerity, pleaded, in extenuation, that it
was the custom of his country, and that he supposed
wives " sometimes needed it to keep them good ! "
When confronted with our Christian usages not to
whip our wives, he said that our women were " of a
different race, and perhaps did not need it ! " But
it was all in vain, he was rejected. The American
members of the Conference did not require to take
part in the discussion ; it was left entirely in the
hands of the native brethren, who are very decided
not to tolerate this " Hindu custom " in their Church
members, much less their official brethren. Some-
times women, who are not aware of our *' Christian
customs," are amazed when they learn that we never
whip our wives. Dr. Scott told me of a case that
occurred under his own eyes some years ago. He
had reason to suppose that one of his theological
students occasionally resorted to this method of

414 From Boston to Bareilly.

" keeping Lis wife good ; " so lie quietly awaited a
chance to cure the evil. One day he heard some
commotion on the other side of the wall of the in-
closure which sounded suspicious, and, hastening
round, came upon the scene as the husband was lay-
ing the switch on the wife's back, and she crying
bitterly. Hastily snatching a broom, which stood
convenient, he made a dash at the man to stop him,
when, lo ! the wife rushed to her husband's rescue,
and in his defense insisted that, being his wife, he
had a right to whip her if he chose to do so, and that
she ought to have taken it more patiently ! But
these things are ending, and a native Conference re-
fuses to excuse it, and will discipline any man that will
raise his hand to a woman. The better day has come,
and the law of Christ has begun to abrogate the In-
stitutes of Memi^ and vindicate long-suifering women
from the treatment which heathenism has thus far in-
flicted upon them. TJiey will ere long learn,

" What a friend we liave in Jesus 1 "

It was satisfactory to see how narrow the door was
into our ministry and how carefully these native
brethren were guarding it.

In my address to these native preachers I urged
upon them the highest motives of the ministry which
they had received, and also the duty of developing
the liberality of their people, so as to lighten the
load on the funds of our society, and hasten the hour

From Boston to Bareilly. 415

when our means should be set free to evangelize
those whom we had not yet reached. They do recog-
nize this duty, and, I believe, are doing about all that
can be fairly expected of them in this comparatively
early stage of our work, and also in view of the very
humble ability of most of our people, who, in becom-
ing Christians, liave lost their all, and have had to
emerge from a poverty that the Church at home
cannot imagine. Let them have five or ten years
more time to work up, and we can then fairly judge
of their disposition to help themselves. But even
now, the statistics which are to follow in these pages
will show that our people are doing all that they are
able for self-su})poi't ; perhaps as well as the average
of our members at home, if the respective ahility of
the parties is fairly estimated. But the statistics will
enable my readers to judge for themselves upon this
question.

These camp-meetings are of great use. To our
own people it is no ordinary inspiration to have them
come together yearly from localities where they are
few and generally persecuted, and often realizing
how heavy is the cross which they carry in having
forsaken heathenism and embraced our religion.
Then to find themselves united for a week with a
body of fellow-disciples six or eight hundred strong,
and enter on the enjoyment of this hixury of the
means of grace, day after day, putting strength and
courage into their hearts all the tjme; they return

416 From Boston to Bareilly.

to their homes better prepared than ever for the
duties and trials of their Christian life, and cheered
bj the reflection that they belong to a body of con-
siderable importance, whose members are growing all
the time in numbers, intelligence, and power for
good. Here, also, the heathen have a grand chance
to see and understand Christianity. Hundreds of
them, w^ho are too timid to enter a place of wor-
ship, will come to the Christian mela, as they call
it, and listen to the singing and preaching with much
interest. They, too, see that this Christianity is
growing into a power, and they are led to respect it,
and become more conciliatory toward those of its
members who reside near them. The steady growth
of this work of God is indicated in a remark made
by Dr. Scott, in the Rohilcund Conference tent. He
said : " Some years ago I built this tent to hold our
camp-meeting ; now you see it wont contain even the
members of the District Conference." They have
most gracious reasons for obeying the Divine com-
mand, " Enlarge the place of thy tent, and let them
stretch forth the curtains of thine habitations." A
remark made by one of the native brethren in the ac-
count of his work, shows, also, the growth of toleration
toward our religion which the past twenty-five years
have developed. The Nawab of Eampore (a native
State in the center of Eohilcund) is a Mohammedan
sovereign. We have long desired to get access to
his territory, and have at last succeeded. But his

From Boston to Bareilly. 417

bigoted officials brought the fact to his notice lately,
mentioning the name of a family who liad become
Christians in one of his towns, and where we liave
begun to hold service. Of course the expectation
was that he would give them leave to drive them
out. But no; to their amazement, his highness re-
plied, '^ Why, I tolerate Hindus in my territory, and
why should I not tolerate Christians, also ? Let them
alone." I know this nawab personally. It was his
worthy father who (as I have related in the Land of
the Veda), when we were so closely beset at Nynee
Tal, gave us that " aid and comfort " then so valuable
to us. I hope my readers will pray for the worthy
and tolerant son who now occupies the throne of
Eampore.

Andrias, a member of this Conference, in his zeal
and desire to relieve the missionary treasury of his
support, gave up his humble salary, of six dollars per
month, on this occasion, asking merely that a small
portion of it be paid to sustain his wife and family,
and he would throw himself entirely upon his Chu-
mar people for support. They had even requested
him to do so. He had been their guru (religious
guide and teacher) in their heathen state, and they
were willing to sustain him now as their Christian
ffuru. The good old man is w^orking his circuit on
this plan, and so far is doing well.

I ought to mention that the head of that family in

Ilam]->ore, mentioned above, who has become a Chris-
27

418 Fkom Boston to Bareilly.

tian, shows his faith by his works, and on this ques-
tion of support for the Christian cause (which all our
preachers instruct their people to observe to the ex-
tent of their ability) he thus states his own sense of
duty : " In my heathen condition I dedicated the
product of live begas of land (nearly an acre) to the
Brahmins ; but now I plow and sow it for Jesus, and
give the product to his cause."

I had once more the great pleasure of hearing dear
Joel preach one of his own eloquent, spiritual sermons
from the text : " Father, I will that they also, whom
thou hast given me, be with me where I am; that
they may behold my gloiy." It was affecting to look
upon his expressive face, with those sightless eyes, as
he dwelt on the fact that they shall "behold'' that
"glory" — not one of them being destitute of the
power to see it.

The sublime and the ridiculous sometimes come
very close and awkwardly together. One such inci-
dent may be worth relating here, not for the smile
which it will create, but for the better purpose it will
answer to illustrate, in a simple way, how^ our religion
cultures its adherents and confers on them a spiritual
discernment W'hich marks the diiference between them
and people of the world. Our camp was lighted
at night by little " butties," small earthen cups with
oil and cotton wncks, fastened upon the trees. To
prepare these and take care of them is one man's
work, He is called a chirag wallah. This wallah

From Boston to Bareilly. 419

was only a nominal Christian, and at the time was
evidently thinking more of his *' butties" than of
that which they feebly typified, w^hen the presiding
elder was earnestly exhorting the audience to take
due care to have " their lights trimmed and burning,"
so that they should shine full and clear before men,
and not go out and leave them in darkness. At this
point the poor wallah, who imagined the exhortation
was clearly aimed at him and his failure of duty, un-
able to endure it longer, rose to his feet and sud-
denly broke in on the elder's address, and most
energetically declared : " Why, sahib, it is not my
fault that they burn badly ; I prepare them carefully
and watch them as well as I can, but the thieving
crows come round and pull out the wricks and get at
the oil in the butties — what more can I do ? " At
home this ridiculous blunder wouTd have broken up
the solemnity of any camp-meeting for a good while.
But here, though there was a momentary merriment
at .the stupidity of the wallah, it was but momentary,
and the feeling awakened was commiseration for the
poor fellow's want of " spiritual discernment " to un-
derstand the word of God and the elder's use of it.
In three minutes all was serene again, and the elder's
exhortation lost none of its effect by the interruption.
The numbers forward for prayers, and of those wlio
professed to have been saved, were I think in advance
of the Lucknow meeting, and the power of God
seemed to me to be more manifest. Tlie love-feast

420 Feom Boston to Bareilly.

was delightful, from two to five persons would be on
the floor at a time waiting for a chance to speak. A
singular fact occurred during this service. A Mo-
liammedan gentleman, who had come into the assem-
bly out of mere curiosity, was so affected by the testi-
monies which he heard that lie rose and asked the
privilege of saying a word. Permission was given,
and he then remarked, that he " felt the spirit of the
place, and he wished to confess that he had been
much helped in his religious feelings." This was the
way he put it. It seemed a true illustration of what
St. Paul^ meant, in 1 Cor. xiv, 25, where he speaks of
the stranger in a Christian assembly confessing to the
power of God being present to save. The sacrament
of the Lord's Supper was a beautiful and solemn
service— about four hundred and fifty communed —
nearly half the number being women, and they were
especially devout.

The closing scene of that Chandausi camp-meeting
was the most enthusiastic hour which we witnessed
during our visit in India. It occurred at the close of
the blessed Sabbath, with all its privileges of relig-
ious services from early morning till nearly ten
o'clock that night. Souls had been saved, believers
sanctified, and every one more or less blessed, and
the services had risen in spirituality and power to
the end. But now the hour of closing had come,
and they were to leave the glad scene early next
morning.

From Boston to Bareillt. 421

Before describing this termination, to enable the
reader to appreciate it. let me refer to the usage of
these people in their heathen state a few years ago.
Hindus make it a practice yearly to attend one of
their great melas on the banks of the Ganges. One
might call their mela an immense Hindu camp-meet-
ing, where for nearly a week several hundred thou-
sand people encamp on the banks of the "holy river"
at these various shrineft, and go through austerities,
ablutions, and services in which they seek for purifi-
cation from the sihs of the past year. These services
are consummated by ah immersion of the whole per-
son beneath the water of this river, preceded by a
cry in which, at a given signal, the whole crowd
unite. Tiiat yell (as it may well be called) is one of
the most awful sounds to which a Christian ear can
listen ! The words are, as they rush forward into the
river, " Gunga mata ki jai, jai, jai ! " The meaning
is, "Victory, victory, victory to the holy Ganges!"
When our people " walked according to the course of
this world " and its idolatry, this was their cry and
their confidence. In this rested their highest hopes
of salvation. But now, " in Christ Jesus," how sig-
nificant is the change which they have made ! Let
me describe it.

The presiding elder. Brother Thomas, at ten
o'clock that Sunday night, reminded them one thing
more, according to their usage, remained to be done
to consummate and close their camp-meeting. They

422 Fkom Boston to Bareilly.

understood it, and the preparations had been made
in tlie tall forest outside the line of tents, where fires
blazed to give light. Commencing at the stand, we
filed out singing, and soon formed a complete circle
of eight hundred people beneath the tall trees. Here
the preachers and ourselves stood in line, and the en-
tire eight hundred slowly marched again till they
passed and shook hands with each of us, while the
singing, the shouts of joy, and flowing tears all at-
tested the gladness of these redeemed people ! The
circle was reformed, and the missionaries and our-
selves stood in the center, and then they sang over
and over again, as though they did not know when
to stop,

" I'm the child of a King."
*' The sweet by and by," etc.

A pause was now called, and they then requested I
should once more address them, perhaps for the last
time. This I did, on the sacred freedom which our
Church secured to them in these extraordinary means
of grace for their enjoyment and help, as well as on
the prospect which they had, if faithful, of joining in
the glad redemption song, " clothed in white robes
and palms in their hands," where we hoped to meet
them, though we could not expect to see them again
on earth. The elder then said, "Now, brethren and
sisters, I want you, before our final shout of victory
is given, to unite in a loving Christian acclamation for
Dr. and Mrs. Butler, the founders of our mission ; "

From Boston to Bareilly. 423

and he led tlie way, and the forest rang with the ap-
plause of those grateful hearts ! He here paused, as
if realizing what all this implied, and called out again,
" Has not this been a happy occasion ? Are we not
all very happy ? " And there came, in response, the
mighty united cry, " Yes, yes, yes ! " This brought
us to the final act, and to the recognition of the honor
due that "Name w^hich is above every name," and
which they now love to celebrate as the closing utter-
ance of their camp-meeting. The elder asked, " Are
you ready ? " They understood, and seemed to stand
firmer in their place, and each hand prepared to rise
toward heaven, as they answered back, "Yes ; ready."
Up w^ent the elder's hand, and theirs with his, and,
like the voice of one man, the eight hundred shouted
out : " Isa Masili ki jai, jai, jai !" which is, " Victory,
victory, victory to Jesus Christ!" Tlie effect was
thrilling, all the more so by the contrast which it sug-
gested of their utterances "in the former days of
their ignorance." I looked up into the clear, calm
heavens, toward w^hich their weaving hands were
pointing so triumphantly, and into which their glad
acclaim was entering,

" And the happy stars above them seemed
To brighten as they passed ! "

I felt sure that He who made those stars was looking
down in love upon the adoring audience, and that
their ascription of "victory" to him was accepted.

42-i From Boston to Bareilly.

No doubt the blessed ones above sjiripatlilzed with
that scene, where these redeemed idolaters were do-
ing their best to unite with the anthem of the skies
in giving glorj to their common Lord. Early next
morning we took our departure, and the glad crowd
entered the train, still singing. Passing the engine I
saw that the engineer w^as a native, and that he was
looking down most benignly upon the people in their
joy. It was to me a great surprise, for hitherto I
understood that even the natives would demur to ride
in a train not controlled by a w^hite man, deeming
their ow^n race inadequate to drive it. But here was
a native engineer, and no objection. Yes ; on inquiry
they told me he was a Christian and a member of our
Church, who, in the good use of the education we had
given him, and his sobriety and intelligence, had risen
from the rank of a stoker to be- an engineer, and a
good one, too, fully trusted by the railroad company,
w^ho had elected him to the position on the failure,
through intemperance, of his English predecessor.
The train rolled out of the station, the happy people
on board "singing lustily and with good courage,"
while now and again they would clap their hands in
sympathy with their singing (another little peculiarity
of theirs, and I think a native habit of expressing joy).
The Christians claim it as a biblical right, for *' the
sweet singer of Israel" teaches them so: "O clap
your hands, all ye people ! " Psa. 5^1 vii, 1. And so
Isaiah (chap. Iv, 12) calls upon " the trees of the field "

From Boston to Bareilly. 425

to do the same in their exultation. They have Ileav^-
en's warrant for tlieir privilege as well as for their
" shouts " of joy. Thank God, that such an hour has
come, when these external manifestations are heard in
India, in the significance which makes them accept-
able to God, being the outward and audible expres-
sions of the inward, unearthly peace and joy which
his Gospel has implanted in their hearts !

426 Fkom Boston to Bareillt.

CHAPTER IX.

" Come, then, thou King of kings and Lord of lords I

Sun-like, from out thy royal chambers come !

The robes of thine imperial majesty

Haste to put on ; and in thy right hand grasp

That scepter of unlimited dominion

Which thine Almighty Father hath bestowed ;

Even so, Lord Jesus, come ! yea, quickly come !

For 'tis the voice of thine own Bride that calls,

And all creation sighs to be renewed.*'

— In imitation of Milton^ by Dr. Mitchell.

The IsTortli India Annual Conference was to com-
mence its sessions in tlie city of Cawnpore on the 9tli
of January, and we now hastened forward to be in
time to enjoy the great opportunity of meeting the
Conference which I saw organized nineteen years
before, under the presidency of Bishop Thomson. I
was now in good measure prepared for the enlarge-
ment and great increase of power which I was to iind
there. But, what most of all impressed me with
surprise and delight, as intimating the future, was
the fact that the native members of this legal Con-
ference are already in the majority. The American
members are now outnumbered. Several of those
who make up this native majority were the orphan
boys of an earlier day; and here they sat, as the

From Boston to Bareilly. 427

peers, ecclesiastically, of the missionaries who so ably
represent the home Church.

Lest any one might suppose that I, as the founder
of this work, was influenced in describing this Con-
ference and the results of its labor, I here prefer to
avail myself of the words of another and competent
witness. Rev. Dr. Thoburn, who, as delegate from
the South India Conference, visited tliis ^orth India
Conference at its recent session at Bareilly (such
occasions being in all essential respects identical).
The doctor tlius writes of what he found :

*'The jpersonnel of the Conference has greatly
changed since its first organization, in December,
1864. There were then eighteen American and
European members, and four native preachers were
admitted on trial. At the recent session in Bareillv
twenty-one American and twenty-five native mem-
bers were present. The foreigners were in a minor-
ity, and all parties were well aware that the minority
must grow relatively smaller wath every succeeding
year. Fifteen years ago it was not uncommon to
hear predictions of troublous times if ever the native
element should gain the numerical ascendency in the
Conference ; but now that that contingency has be-
come an accomplished fact, no evil result of any kind
is apparent. On the other hand, all seemed to re-
joice in the result, and instead of anticipating trouble
in the future, native members of Conference are
cordially admitted on terms of perfect equality with

428 Fkom Boston to Bareilly.

their American brethren, and no misgiving is either
expressed or felt. These American brethren practi-
cally place their characters in the hands of their na-
tive brethren. Each missionary is amenable to the
Annual Conference for his moral and ecclesiastical
standing, and, if put on trial, can be expelled by a ma-
jority vote. In this Conference the natives are in the
majority ; but no American member has the slightest
unwillingness to trust his character to their keeping.

" Another marked and more unexpected change in
the jpersonnel of the Conference is seen in the pres-
ence of seventeen lady missionaries. Tliese, added
to fourteen wives of missionaries who were present,
gave the ladies a large numerical preponderance, and
although these good sisters are not reckoned as mem-
bers of Conference, yet they hold an annual meeting
of their own, and transact a large amount of impor-
tant business pertaining to their work. The develop-
ment of this large and growing work is one of the
most remarkable features of recent missionary prog-
ress. It has been manifestly a providential move-
ment from the first, and we think the Christian man
who does not see the hand of God in it must be blind
indeed. These ladies are engaged in many kinds of
active work, and every year their sphere of useful-
ness grows wider and more important.

" The devotional meetings of the ]S"orth India Con-
ference are always seasons of interest, and have, on
some occasions, been scenes of remarkable blessing.

Fkom Boston to Bareilly. 429

It is a good custom, and one worthy of imitation
elsewhere, for the brethren and sisters to gather to-
gether after tea in the evening and spend an hour or
two in prayer and conversation. These social meet-
ings were greatly blessed at the recent session, and
will long be gratefully remembered by those who
were fortunate enough to be present. They were
not only seasons of great blessing, but the gatherings
partook largely of the character of a large family re-
union, and were thus doubly blessed to the company
which nightly assembled.

" The work of the Conference was reported as in a
very prosperous condition. Steadily, and somewhat
rapidly, the native Christians of Oude, Rohilcund,
Kumaon, and Gurhwal, are increasing in numbers,
and every year the momentum of the gathering mass
is increasing. The whole number of baptized com-
municants under the care of the Conference is 4,573,
a number which indicates a Christian population of,
perhaps, ten tiiousand or more. The whole number
of pupils in the schools of various grades is 12,119.
In the Sunday-schools the extraordinary number of
18,0G9 was reported, of whom 4,364 were Christians,
and 13,705 non-Christians. The steady growth of
the Sunday-school work under the care of this Con-
ference is one of the most striking features of recent
missionary work in India. The number of adult
baptisms reported for 1884 was 347. The amount
contributed by the native churches toward the

430 From Boston to Bareilly.

support of tlieir own pastors during the year was
1,832 rupees. Six Hindustani preachers were admit-
ted on trial.

" Bishop Hurst was gladly welcomed by tlie breth-
ren, and his administration highly appreciated. The
missionary circle of Bareilly, as well as other Chris-
tian friends, gave the Conference a warm welcome,
and the strangers who were present were greatly
pleased and delighted with their visit to Bareilly,
and especially with their stay in the charming little
mission settlement. The theological school build-
ing, the church, the orphanage, the hospital, the mis-
sion houses, and the school and church in the city,
all combine to make a group of buildings which, on
the Chinese coast, would be called a settlement, or
* concession.' Those who knew Bareilly in earlier
days, and remembered how the first foundations were
laid, looked with grateful, wonder at the changed
scenes around them. The resident missionaries re-
ported a hopeful state of things in the city and dis-
trict. The cause of Christ is steadily marching for-
ward, and all manner of barriers are giving way.
May God still more abundantly bless the labors of
his people in Bareilly, "and in all the region in which
those North Indian brethren labor, and multiply
them and their people a hundred-fold ! "

These Annual Conferences liold their sessions alter-
nately at Moradabad, Bareilly, Shahjahanpore, Luck-
now, and Cawnpore. Our brethren of other Churches

Fkom Boston to Bareilly. 431

— Congregational, Baptist, and Presbyterian — find
them to be occasions of sncli interest .and spiritual
profit that they come from considerable distances to
attend them. In studying our methods and progress,
we are glad to know that they find suggestions which
are useful to them when they return to their own
fields of labor. My readers will remember that in
addition to this body of ministers forming the North
India Annual Conference, we have about one hundred
other native preachers, who being only " local " —
though fully employed in supplying the work — are
not members of this legal Conference, but yet hold
a membership in the four District Conferences al-
ready described, and are amenable to the disciplinary
arrangements as thus administered. In the District
Conferences the business is transacted entirely in the
Hindustanee language, and by resolution of this
Annual Conference, at its last session, the English
tongue will be discontinued at its next session, and
henceforth all the business of North India Methodism
will be conducted in the language of the country.
This fact will mark an epoch in the completeness
and efficiency of our work in India, and grows out of
the necessity of deferring to the intelligent judg-
iwtnt and co-operation of our native brethren, who
should, therefore, understand every thing that is said
and done.

I was deeply interested all through the Conference
in listening to the facts and figures which our breth-

432 Fbom Boston to Bareilly.

jTf ij wf re handling. In matters pf which, in my days
there, we spoke and rejoiced over increases in our
statistical returns which did not rise above tens and
hundreds — here they were reporting similar interests,
but the tens had changed to hundreds, and the hun-
dreds to thousands ! Take tlie single item of Sunday-
schools. At the recent Conference it was found that
during the year the Sunday-scliools had increased
from 344 to 430, and the increase of pupils during
the year was found to be 1,969. Again, in tlie Rohil-
cund District 50 new Christian day-schools had been
organized during the year (chiefly by Brother Gouch-
er's aid), and 30 more in the Oude District ; 80 new
day-schools and 86 new Sunday-schools in one year
in these two districts!

But I need not continue the elucidations of the
prosperity which God is giving to the labors of these
faithful servants of the Church, as the statistical re-
turns will present the facts fully in the tabular state-
ment, which will appear a few pages farther on, and
there my readers can consult them at their leisure and
see how the Head of the Church has honored the
faith and devotion of our jS'orth India brethren.

The number of foreign missionaries which, after
due consideration of the great centers to be occupied, I
was led, in 1858, to ask for from the Missionary Society
was twenty-four. That number they granted and have
since retained there. In view of the climate which
they have to endure and the exhausting nature of

From Boston to Bareilly. 433

their toil upon the health and constitution of foreign-
ers, they have stood well and faithfully to their work.
Four of their number have died, and four more have
been permanently removed from the field by failing
health. Of the remainder, four have been in the
work fourteen years ; one for sixteen years ; two for
twenty years; four for twenty-two years; two for
twenty-three years, and three for twenty -five years each.
This is, so far as I know, as good a showing for devo-
tion to mission service of men still effective, as any
mission in India can present to the Church which
they serve. Their vacations have been well earned,
and they have used them to recuperate their energies
and return to their beloved work. The remaining
members of the Conference have seen but thirteen
years or less of service.

It may be observed that the climate has pressed
more severely upon the ladies of the mission than it
has upon tlieir husbands the missionaries, who have
to be out so much more in the hot sun and necessarily
more exposed. Yet so it is. While only four of the
brethren have died during the twenty-five years,
twelve of the ladies have gone down to the grave.
Six of these have died in India. It is to be lamented
that so many of these devoted ladies were physically
unable to cope with the debilitating effects of the
climate, and their useful lives were so soon ended.
But they were honored of God in their service, and

when they died they closed life in.Christian triumph,
28

434 Fkom Boston to Bareilly.

and left memories which are still fragrant in the
India Mission. In building and arranging homes for
the mission I acted on the conviction that a large
roomy house, giving space for storing plenty of the
fresh morning air to be used during the day, was one
of the first essentials of health and life in India.
They gratefully admit that my policy in providing
them such homes, adapted to the climate, has done
much in promoting their health and prolonging the
period of their active usefulness.

It is also a fact, which ought to be recognized, in
gratitude to God, that not one of the members of this
mission, male or female, has ever been lost at sea,
going or coming, during the quarter of a century ; nor
has any of them been injured or died during their
land journeys. It bespeaks the care of Providence
over them, and also the safety of modern methods of
traveling. Some of the older missionaries are no
longer the strong, erect men whom I superintended
twenty or more years ago. Their toil has told on
them ; their step is more feeble, and they bend more
under their burden. But their resolution and faith
are grander • now than ever they were. The holy
cahn of sanctified resolve rests upon their face and
manner, and they look familiarized with victories
won for the Lord Jesus, and evidently are expect-
ing and prepared for even ^' greater things than
these." As I sat and looked a them I could not fail
to call to mind their early trials, in face of the organ-

Fkom Boston to Baijeilly. 435

ized resistance of earth and hell to their work and its
purposes, and of the long years of persistent toil
which they have so unobtrusively rendered to this
service, while the Church at home has known so
little of them individually; I could realize how pa-
tiently, nevertheless, they have worked on, animated
by the highest motives of the Cliristiati * ministry ;
while separated by half the breadth of the earth from
liome, children, and loved ones, and even in India
scattered forty or fifty miles from each other in their
charges, and meeting only at their Conferences ; yet
they have toiled on, year after year, devoted to God
and to the objects of their pastoral care. In their
presence I supposed I had not looked upon servants
of God of whom more truthfully and worthily might
be quoted the lines of Robert Swan, in his poem on
the Sahhath^ where he says :

" Then grant, 0 Lord, mine earliest, latest prayer,
That some sequestered hamlet be my care ;
Where from all pride and all ambition free,
Save that of winning many souls to thee,
I may, unnoticed, pass my tranquil days,
And lead my flock in wisdom's pleaf»ant wayis;
And meet in bliss, when every trial is o'er,
The little flock I loved so well before."

The ability and devotion of the native members of
this Conference were so much beyond what they were
in my day that I was greatly delighted. Their good
training and association with the foreign brethren
have evidently drawn them into an intelligent syra-

436 Fkom Boston to Baeeillt.

patlij with onr Methodistic ways and spirit, and is
quietly but decidedly preparing tliem for the day
when the Church will transfer to their race the en-
tire charge of their own reh'gious affairs. I would,
however, earnestly deprecate this being done before
they are properly prepared for it, in view especially
of the magnitude of the interests involved and the
work to be done. If India were an island or a little
country with five or ten millions of people, the Church
might safely begin to agitate this question within a
few years. With twenty millions of souls in our own
particular field, and a sixth of the human race right
around them, it becomes us to be very careful wliat
we propose if we are not to risk the blessed w^ork so
far accomplished. But the Church may as well settle
down at once to the conviction that India is not likely
to be evan2:elized within a life-time. This o^lorious
prize is not going to be laid at the feet of the blessed
Master by one generation of Christian toilers. It took
primitive Christianity, with all its inspiration, mira-
cles, and supernatural power, more than three hundred
years to Christianize, even nominally, the Roman em-
pire, including in all fewer millions than India con-
tains to day ! If we can save India in one hundred
years, we shall move three times faster than early
Christianity did. But if it takes two hundred years
for its accomplishment, we shall do well, and India will
be worth the time and expense ; for her evangeliza-
tion would be " life from the dead," for all surround-

From Boston to Bareilly. 437

ing nations ! So onr Church has to receive into her
heart tlie solemn conviction that she has hard work
before her tliere ; that it is going to demand many
millions of her money and hundreds of her sons and
daughters to accomplish India's redemption. Are we
worthy of the success by the hard labor it demands ?
But, if we shrink back from the self-denial and sacri-
fice required by the duty to which God has called us,
then surely woe must be to us, and to all that we
selfishly reserve from God. Our wealth and our
blessings may become a snare and a curse to us. But,
the Almighty, in that case, will not be defeated in
his object. If he finds us unworthy of the labor and
the honor he can cut us off, and seek another Church
and people, with larger faith and more worthy liber-
ality, to consummate for him the grand work of the
redemption of India ! O may God have mercy on our
Methodist Church, by arousing her to her duty, so that
she may not fail in the great service which he has at
last brought within her reach to accomplish for him !
When we begin to give an average of four or five
dollars per member to this work, and even then rec-
ognize that it can only be consummated " by patient
continuance in well-doing," we may consider that
we have commenced in earnest, and can then expect
to see earth's redemption drawing nigh. At pres-
ent the great heart of the Church is not aroused or
in earnest in this work. We are playing at mis-
sions ; and a thousand years of her present liberality

438 From Boston to Bareilly.

will not suffice to measure up with tlie increase of
population, or overtake the death rate, or save the
one thousand five hundred millions of the popula-
tion of the world ! The duty would not only be
done in one tenth part of the time, but it would cost
far less in money, if we were to arouse ourselves to
fultill our Lord's command with means commensu-
rate for its execution, and a high resolve which
would never relax its diligence until this work was
accomplished, and his Gospel preached to "every
creature under heaven."

I am satisfied, from further inquiry made at this
Conference, the question of self-support is being fairly
placed before our native members. Candor requires
us to remember tliat we usually reduce these people
to poverty by Christianizing them. They have to
" forsake all " to follow Christ, having, when baptized,
to surrender home and family ties and property,
" hated of all for his name's sake." Counted as
dead ; and, indeed, funeral ceremonies have been per-
formed for many of them ; if it were not for the pres-
ence of English law hundreds of them would be mur-
dered for becoming Christians. Suffering thus " tiie
loss of all things," they have to begin in absolute pov-
erty to seek a living. Surely such persecuted and be-
reaved people should be allowed sufficient time ere
the burden of supporting their pastors is reqiiired of
them. To demand it too soon is to discourage and
crush them. Let them have reasonable time and

From Boston to Bareilly. 439

they will do a Christian's duty in this matter. What
are the facts in this case ?

A dollar in India means far more than it does in
this country. There the wages of a laboring man,
under the best circumstances, is but two annas per
day (6| cents), and of an artisan just doable that
amount. Of course education (which our converts
are anxious at once to obtain) gives them a far better
chance of a living, but it takes some years to acquire
it. The duty of giving, "as God hath prospered
them," is taught, and even urged upon all our people
from the first, and by none more earnestly than by
our native preachers. They very carefully examine
at each District Conference what each charge has
contributed. The question is considered in all the
Quarterly Conferences. How fully and intelligently
this duty of self-help is recognized by our mission
may be illustrated by a fact wliich occurred lately.
A prize was offered for the best essay on " Self-
support in the Native Church." The proposition at
once awakened the attention of writers among the
various missions of North India. Twenty-four com-
petitors sent in their essays to the examining com-
mittee in due time^ but both the prizes were won by
two members of our own mission : Isaac Fieldbrave,
one of our native ministei^, and W, Earney, of our
Press at Lucknow. They were both furnished in the
native language and are now published. So that it has
been said, to our credit, that " the mission of the Meth-

440 From Boston to Bareilly.

odist Episcopal Cliurcli is one of the foj^emost among
the missions in India in education on tliis subject."

Reasonable effort is made to keep the salaries of
onr native preachers at about that level to which our
native churches may hope to come in their ability to
pay them ere long. The lowest salary paid is about
S5 per month, and the highest about $17. Age, abil-
ity, family claims, etc., make the difference between
these extremes. The Lucknow native church pays
its pastor's entire salary (35 rupees per month), and
now asks nothing of our Missionary Society. Bareilly,
Budaon, Gonda, Cawnpore, Setapore, and Moradabad
are close behind in their effort to reach the same
result. The rest of the congregations give from
3 rupees up to 54 rupees each, and the total contri-
bution for this purpose from the native churches for
the past year was 1,882 rupees by the 4,573 India
members. Even already, then, we may ask the candid
judgment of the home Church upon this exhibit. If
there be no error in these figures, I find that, com-
paring this liberality of the humble class of our In-
dia members w^ith our laboring class at home, where
wages are, say $1 50 per day (which is twenty-four
times larger than the Hindu receives for his toil), the
Methodist in the valley of the Ganges pays what would
be equal f o $4 per capita from the American Methodist,
wdth his higher ability, for the support of his pastor.
Besides, he contributes his humble help to the mis-
sionary and other collections. In a church of three

From Boston to Bareilly. 441

luindred members these $4 would yield here a $1,200
income to the charge.

The total amount raised for self-support in India
from our native and English churches last year was
$4,911 20. Adding the missionary collection, $222 80,
to which our native members contributed their share,
and we have a total of $5,133 20 contributed to help
our Missionary Society to sustain their minist^i^y in
India. And this is a lona fide contribution — not
raised in name and expended there without relieving
our Society to that extent. It is raised as missionary
money and for self-support, and is accounted for to
the Society, which is helped to that extent, instead of
having to bear the entire cost of ministerial support
in the North India Conference. Let it be borne in
mind, also, that this is but the ministerial aspect of the
contributions, and is only about one sixth of what is
raised in North India. The rest will be found re-
ported farther on, as aid for schools, or[)hanages, re-
pairs, and other benevolences, to the extent of over
$30,000 per annum. If ever there was a mission that
for its age was a grand example to Christendom of
self-help and extent of unencumbered property, this
North India Conference is that mission. If our
Society had to bear the whole burden of that work it
would have to pay this $30,000 more per annum
than what is now required from our missionary funds.
The Society " devised liberal things," and " by liberal
things they stand" to-day. While they have the

4i2 From Boston to Bareilly.

satisfaction, also, of knowing that tlie self-support
from our native members for tlieir own pastors is
quietly but decidedly on the increase all the time,
and will yet, as soon as their ability becomes equal to
the burden, assume the entire charge and release the
Society from further claim on this account. Our
native ministry long to cee that day as much as we
ourselves do, and are training their people to antici-
pate and work on to it. Brother Badley is fully
justified in saying, as he does in his review of our
India ministry : " We are proud of our native
preachers. Most of them could get from thirty to
fifty per cent, higher salaries were they to give up
preaching and enter secular life ; that they prefer to
preach the Gospel shows their earnestness." "The
Church at home, no less than its missionaries in India,
has reason to rejoice that the Hindus, when con-
verted, make earnest and successful preachers of the
Gospel." " In this respect, at least, we in India have
great reason .for gratitude to God." These grateful
words are all the more impressive when we remem-
ber that they are uttered of the first generation of
India Methodist preachers. Those who have been
led up from a condition of Hindu society, where
lying, selfishness, and insincerity are, and have been
for ages past, the marked characteristics of the people.
Each man among our preachers is an evidence of what
divine grace and Christian training can make out of
a race which idolatry has so deeply debased. The

From Boston to Bareilly. 443

next generation of these Christians and preachers
will rise higher still in moral sense, spiritual percep-
tion, and refinement of character. And this will de-
velop itself in that depth of devotion and strength
of faith and courage which may yet make the native
ministry of India as remarkable in Christendom as
the heathen devotees of their race have been for their
unparalleled asceticism and endurance of religious
austerities. Already they are developing these quali-
ties. May it not be asked, Where can be found 4,500
Christians in any land who have endured more for
Christ and Christian conviction than this native
Church has done? One by one they have passed
through an ordeal of which Christians at home know
but little ; and many of them have carried crosses
and endured self-denials which must have secured for
them the deep sympathy of their divine Master.

They are capable of endurance, and can appreciate
" the higher life " of Christianity. Entire sanctilica-
tion will suit them well — union with God, to its last
and highest degree, will meet the yearnings of their
souls for perfection. I can appeal to those who have
read the wonderful Bagvat Geeta — an episode of
the Malidbliarata — and who have been solemnized
as they have contemplated the doctrines and practices
of the Y ogees therein illustrated, whether a people
who were fascinated by such teachings and deadness
to the things of earth, are not likely to enter with
ardor into the adoring contemplation of "the mys-

444 From Boston to Bareilly.

tery which from the beginning of the world hath
been hid in God, who created all things by Jesus
Christ ? " If they have said, and done, and written,
and endured all that is there depicted out of affection
for Krishna or their other abstractions, w^hat are
they not capable of feeling and doing when " the love
of Christ, which passeth knowledge," shall become
their grand experience, and the indwelling of "the
true eternal God" shall develop in their strong de-
sires such a devotion to duty as this :

" Enlarge, inflame, and fill my heart

With boundless cliarity divine ;
So shall I all my strength exert,

And love them with a zeal like thine;
And lead them to thy open side,
The sheep for whom their Shepherd died I "

As I sat in that Conference and saw Brother An-
drias proposing to go forth as a Christian guru to
preach Christ without purse or scrip, and remem-
bered that there were two others like him there, who
asked nothing of our Society save a little support for
their families while they gave themselves to this
w^ork for God and souls, I saw a strong intimation
of that future which I anticipate. These three dev-
otees in the North India Conference have a line of
w^ork peculiarly their own as w^andering evangelists,
receiving their subsistence from those to whom they
preach ; and their brethren who are in charge of sta-
tions are in sympathy with them for all the good

From Boston to Bareilly. 445

they can accoiiipHsli in gathering souls into the
Christian fold. May they prove to be " men full of
the Floly Ghost and of faith,'' and as a self-support-
ing evangelizing ministry may they have many to
follow the example of their devotion !

The warmth of our reception by all the members of
this Conference, native and foreigners alike, may be
imagined by my readers, but cannot be adequately
described by me. Perhaps it will be enough if I
here present the gracious and hearty report Avhich
the committee introduced, and the Conference passed
by a rising vote, and ordered published in their An-
nual Minutes. Dr. M'Cabe and the kind friends who
responded to his proposition to send us on this de-
lightful visit have a right to know how their generous
action was appreciated by the North India Confer-
ence. The report was as follows :

" The close of the year 1883 and the opening days
of 1884 will mark an epoch in our mission history ;
for during these days and months the loved and re-
vered founder of the missions of the Methodist Epis-
copal Church in India, the Rev. William Butler,
D.D., having returned from America after an ab-
sence of nineteen years (twenty-seven from the
founding of the mission by him), comes to review
the scenes of his early labors, trials, and triumphs,
and to see what has been accomplished — what God
hath wrouglit — since the day he first entered the val-
ley of the Ganges. We desire to record here our

446 From: Boston to Bareilly.

gratitude to Dr. Butler, so long the Superintendent
of these missions, that in advancing years and im-
paired health he has found it in his heart to leave
the quiet and comfort of ^his American home, and
endure the hardships and inconveniences of travel by
sea and by land to come once more among us and
look upon our work. The pleasure it has given us
to meet him, and enjoy his mature counsels, has
been no common one. We are glad and grateful to
him that he has gone so carefully and patiently over
our mission, field, examining our work in all its de-
partments, and taking so much interest in all that has
been shown him. We are glad, too, that he has been
pleased, and that he clearly recognizes the hand of
God in the great work planned and now carried on
upon the lines laid down by him more than a quarter
of a century ago. We are glad, too, that he has been
able to give the time to look more thoroughly into
the plans and ininuticB of the work than any one who
has yet visited our field ; and we feel confident that
in his representation of our work before the Amer-
ican churches, when he returns home, nothing but
good can come to us, and that all who wish an intelli-
gent comprehension of God's work in India will do
well to hear Dr. Butler. We pray that his health
and strength may be preserved for years of usefulness
in going among the churches, and stirring them up
to greater diligence and earnestness in the cause of
the missions. We would be greatly pleased if some

From Boston to Bareilly. 447

arrangement were raad^ by wliich Dr. Butler could
be entirely set free for deputation duty; and we
know the result must be a great advance in mis-
sionary interest, intelligence, and giving.

'* The same word of w^elcome and pleasure on our
part we would accord to Mrs. Butler, who has accom-
panied her honored husband in all his travels, and
without whose presence the visit would have been in-
complete. She has taken the same interest in all the
work shown her, and has partaken of Dr. Butler's
joy and gratitude in going over the field of their
toil among the troublous times of the Sepoy Kebell-
ion and the following years. We have all wel-
comed them to our midst, and heartily thank them
for coming. We pray for tlieir health and comfort
in tlieir further travels, and we shall not forget
them, nor the pleasure their cheering visit has
given us.

" We desire also to send to the Eev. C. C. M'Cabe,
D. D., of America, our hearty thanks for the worthy
part he has taken in bringing about this oppor-
tune visitation of Dr. Butler and Mrs. Butler.
We would fain hope that Chaplain M'Cabe may
find time and respite from the cares of his busy life
to pay us a like visit at no distant day. lie will
receive a most hearty welcome in North India. We
request our Conference Secretary to send liim a letter
bearing our fraternal greetings, and mentioning how
much we thank him for the part he has taken in giv-

448 Fkom Boston to Bareilly.

ing us this great pleasure — the visit from our former
Superintendent, Dr. Butler."

We spent nearly two months and a half visiting
the leading stations of the South India Conference,
and had also the privilege of attending their Annual
Conference, held in the city of Allahabad in the
month of November. We were received by these
good brethren with great cordiality. They were kind
enough to appreciate our visit, and the efforts which
we made to become fully acquainted with their work.
The resolutions which they passed, expressing the
pleasure which our visit gave them, and the letter of
the Secretary to Dr. M'Cabe, were as kind and cordial
as were those of the North India Conference. Our
visit to their work will long remain among the most
pleasant remembrances of this journey.

They were w^ell aware that I was the representa-
tive of a policy of missionary action somewhat differ-
ent from their own ; but they were specially kind in
answering my inquiries, and helping me to compre-
hend what there was peculiar in their methods, and the
reasons for their preference. I believe that not one
of them doubted the hearty sympathy we had with
them in their extended and difficult work. I am satis-
fied that their methods are not properly or fully
understood by some people at home, and that they are
assumed to be more apart from the North India
brethren in their way of working than is really the
case. In the liberty which I will take in referring to

From Boston to Baeeillt. 44^

the facts, I would fain present my understanding of
tliem in the spirit of candor and genuine apprecia-
tion of the good work which they have done, as
well as express my own views of what I understand
to be the present necessity of their work. In doing
this I will try to have them represent themselves,
as far as I can, in those points where I might be
presumed not to be as capable as they are to place
the facts in question before my readers for their
information.

To understand properly the respective work of
these two Conferences, the dissimilar circumstances
under which they were founded should be borne in
mind, otherwise any comparison of the work must be
misleading. When the mission of the South India
Conference was begun, nearly fourteen years ago, the
class of people whom it chiefly reached were the Eura-
sians. These people all spoke the English language,
had education, and were also nominally Christians, and
were generally well off in temporal matters. They
had been neglected by almost all denominations, so
that when Brother Taylor went among them they
gratefully responded to his interest in their spiritual
welfare, and at once agreed to support the ministers
whom he offered to send among them as their pastors,
and also to build their own churches. The founding
of such a mission was comparatively easy work, and
was prosecuted among a people who were very grate-
ful for the coming of the missionary among them.
29

450 From Boston to Baeeilly.

But the case was far different within the bounds of
the North India Conference. There it was the native
population whom we chiefly sought ; people who knew
nothing of our language, and regarded our religion
with fear and hatred from the very first. They were
all idolaters, without education, and knew well that
to embrace our religion was to lose caste, property, and
social standing, and sink to the condition of pariahs.
They wanted to have nothing to do with us or our
Christianity, and rose at last, in their rage, to ex-
terminate us from their country and from the face of
the earth. We had to risk all this hatred and bloody
persecution, to acquire their difiicult language, to pa-
tiently live down their prejudice, and introduce to
their candid hearing a faith with which they had not
one fundamental idea in common, and then lead those
of tliem whom we could win to a better mind, to
where they were at length made willing to " suffer the
loss of all things," and bear the heaviest crosses car-
ried by Christians anywhere in this world, into the
communion of a hated and persecuted Christianity.
Again, all this had to be done among a people whose
law, religion, and public sentiment were most bitterly
opposed to the education of any of their women —
treating the idea with scorn and contempt ; and who
united together to prevent those young men of their
race who first accepted Christianity from having
any home, and dooming them, so far as they could,
to a condition of celibacy, and so preventing our Chris-

From Boston to Bareilly. 451

tianity from having any social life or standing in their
country.

1^0 \v, any person of candor can see how different
were the conditions under which these two missions
began their work. It w^as likely, and to be confi-
dently expected, that the Eurasian race would gladly
respond to the Christianity which came among them,
and they were very far from persecuting each other
for embracing it; so those who planted the Gospel
among these grateful people had a very different
time of it as compared with their brethren in North
India. The wonder is, not that the South India
brethren succeeded as well as they have done in their
field, but that the brethren of the North India Con-
ference were enabled to endure, witliout flinching or
yielding their ground, that great fight of afflictions,
and to stand, as they do to-daj^, surrounded by the
divine success wliich their statistics exhibit. Not
unto them, but to the almighty grace which enabled
tliem to so " triumph in Christ " in their more difli-
cult field, do tliey ascribe, as is due, all tlie honor of
their success. But the distinction should be borne in
mind in order that God may have the glory due unto
his name.

Then, again, must be remembered the future
which each work intimates. The Eurasian and En-
glish-speaking population of India is a very limited
one. It is considered that they are not more than
three hundred and fifty thousand in number. Brother

452 From Boston to Baeeilly.

Taylor's efforts for tlieir religious welfare and his
success provoked the zeal of other denominations,
which had so long neglected these people, and to-day
their good is more generally sought; so that the
brethren of the South India Conference now find
others competing with them in this limited field.
They commenced among nominal Christians, and
their success was chiefly at the first ; their progress
since has been rather slow. When the South India
Conference was organized, nine years ago, they had
1,596 members, which, six years after, had increased
to 2.040, an increase of about 100 each year. Tliree
years ago these figures stood at 2,062, but there lias
of late been a decrease, the numbers reported at the
last session of the Conference being but 1,898. It
has been different in the North India Conference;
during the above six years its membership was in-
creased by 1,188 souls. Though laboring among hos-
tile heathen, God has yearly added to their numbers..
At the close of the Sepoy Kebellion, in 1858, the
work began with three members, won from heathen-
ism ; at the last session of the North India Confer-
ence there was reported 4,573 ; while all the other sta-
tistics, numerical and financial, show a corresponding
condition of progress.

To evidence that in these rem.arks I am entirely
within the facts, I will here quote the admission of
one who has a right to speak for his Conference.
Dr. Thoburn, of the South India Conference, says, in

From Boston to Bareilly. 453

The Indian Witness for December 6, 1884, in review-
ing the work of the year then just eonchided :

'' For some years past the majority of the churches
in the South India Conference have been doing little
more than holding their own, and the time has surely
come for them to consider their resj)onsibilities anew,
to repent of past unfaithfulness, and to consecrate
themselves to better service in the years to come.

" Some of the scattered flocks are very weak, and
need to quadruple their numerical strength in order
to be able to hold the position which they occupy.
Some are falling back into a state of chronic discour-
agement, and need to gird on their armor anew, and
go forth, as in former days, to battle and to victory.
The time is opportune for sounding a new call to
arms all along the line.

" If we are to march on to a new career of victory
we must all at once agree to leave the things which
are behind. In all the past the Church of Christ has
been strangely prone to cling to the things which are
behind. The failure of plans, the differences of breth-
ren, the strife about policies, the defeats or victories
of other days, all are to be left behind. We are to
enter upon the work before us as if it were all
new."

My sole object in what I write here is to draw the
sympathetic attention of the Church to the position
and necessity of these good brethren. It seems to
me that Providence is crowding them out to a higher

451 Fkom Boston to Baeeilly.

and more imjportant work tlian what they have been
doing — a work more worthy of their power and faith.
While holding well in hand the good accomplished
among the Eurasian race, they see around their scat-
tered stations two hundred and forty millions of hea-
then, for whom Christ died, who are " perishing for
lack of knowledge. " This greater work, of doing their
duty to the unsaved millions of idolaters within the
bounds of that Conference, is the question that is now
pressing upon them so seriously for consideration.
They dare not close their ears to the call on behalf of
these dying multitudes within their reach. God and
our Church expect them to save these people ; but
they clearly see that they are not accomplishing it ;
yet they have planned and resolved and made such
efforts as they could consistently with the other and
imperative duties that press so heavily upon them.
The financial burdens borne have been so serious,
the claims of their English charges so exacting, and
the pressure upon health and life in this climate so
constant, that they have done and endured all that
good men could do, without being able now to pre-
sent to the Church the evidence that they can also
reach and save the heathen, too, without help from
home.

Surely, therefore, the hour has arrived, these things
being so, when the question should be considered
both by them and by the Church which they serve.
Suitable men for this additional work, and financial

Fkom Boston to Baeeilly. 455

help to pay tlieir passages and otherwise assist them
in their efforts, are imperatively necessary.

They desire no aid for their English-speaking
work. They tenaciously hold, as they justly may,
that their cherished principle of self-support is there-
in vindicated, and they cannot allow it to be com-
promised. They had even hoped they could have
made that work the basis from which they might
have been enabled to develop missions among the
heathen millions around them, and for years they
have tried to do this. But their hearts are sad that
tlieir statistics do not show a larger measure of suc-
cess on this line.

I took the liberty of saying to these brethren, that
in this they were attempting to carry a load too
great for what resources were available to them ; and
I feared further perseverance in the effort could not
secure the expansion which they so earnestly seek.
In saying this, I had before me the fact that they are
not the first mission in India that has made a similar
effort, and after many years have but little results to
show for their* devotion and self-sacrifice. There
were one or two such in North India which I vis-
ited when about to lay the foundation of the North
India Mission, and now, when I returned and in-
quired for the outcome of such self-denying labors, I
was pained to learn how small were the results after
more than thirty years of faithful and self-denying
toil. Such missions certainly do not seem to have

456 From Boston to Bareilly.

paid for the liealtli and life that were given to them.
It may be there is something in the plans and policy
of the South India Mission which will yield far
different results in success among the heathen (and
it is only of work among the heathen that I am here
speaking) after the same term of years has passed
over. But I was not able to see intimations of it, and
especially in view of the size and power of that de-
voted Conference.

Still, every good man should be ready to rejoice if
they could, by their success on this line, show Christen-
dom a more economical and rapid method of evan-
gelizing the heathen millions around them. This is
what we are all aiming to accomplish. At any risk
or cost of self-denial let us have men saved. Even if
by going barefooted and subsisting on native fare,
as some of those I have referred to did — and as
Major Tucker, head of the India Salvation Army,
docs to-day — we can get more heathen saved in the
same length of time, with all the clear risk of health
or life, there are numbers of devoted servants of God
in the evangelical missions in India that w^ould not
hesitate for a day, or count life or health dear unto
them, to secure the greater good. But the experi-
ments— and some of them have been costly in conse-
crated life that have been tried — have not given evi-
dence, or furnished the success that should now lead
God's servants to imitate such examples. Our North
India Mission was developed on a different method.

From Boston to Bareilly. 457

Tlie results are before the Church. How often was I
congratulated on these results, while last in India, by
ministers and laymen of other missions, who rejoiced
with us in the prosperity vouchsafed by the Head of
the Church to the plans employed by our parent
Board for evangelizing the heathen. Such has been
the hand of God upon us for good, that no mis-
sion in India of the same age has had such a develop-
ment, not in one point only, but in all respects — a
harmonious development of all the various interests
which make up the life and power of a mission —
numerical, financial, literary, and spiritual — and pre-
pare it for a sustained growth and great success in
the future. The statistical tables will furnish abun-
dant evidence of this.

Our brethren of South India entertain a holy liorror
of having a body of native preachers supported by
foreign money, generation after generation, stipendi-
aries upon missionary funds, while the churclies they
serve are, in a great degree, left free from the obliga-
tion of self-denial and liberality which should sup-
port their native pastors. Herein I heartily sympa-
thize with them, and would be sorry to realize that I
was the founder of such a mission. I am aware that
our brethren need not look far to find evidences of
such a policy. But it is not the policy of the North
India Mission. Bearing in mind the explanations
already given and repeated in these pages, and, in
view of the facts to be presented in the statistics,

458 Fkom Boston to Baeeilly.

tliat mission can claim that, while they have paid sal-
aries— as all missions must do at first, while the native
preachers are collecting congregations, and instruct-
ing them in Christianity and the duties of the relig-
ious life — we have never allowed them to settle down
into the notion of being pensioners of our Missionary
Society. As soon as possible we have made them
understand that they should teach their people that a
mission which was not going to be self-sustaining was
not worth founding, and that they must look forward
at no distant day to take the entire burden upon their
own shoulders, and let our Society go elsewhere to
evangelize other people ; that to secure this end, they
must begin to pay something, at God has prospered
them, toward the salary of their preacher, increas-
ing it year by year as able, and look to the Society
only for the balance that they could not yet raise
themselves. This was included in my addresses at
each of the District Conferences ; and I found our
native ministry in sympathy with me on this subject
of self-support. I have given the reasons why pa-
tience should be exercised with these people, so many
of whom are poor, and persecuted as well, and proper
time be granted them to reach the position of a self-
sustaining Christianity. Already they are, I believe,
ahead of any other mission of their age and size in this
grace, and the Church can trust them for the future.
Besides, it should not be forgotten that the amount
of missionary money devoted to the support of native

Fkom Boston to Bareilly. 459

preacliers is very small. If out of the yearly appro-
priations we take the amount necessary for the sup-
port of the missionaries sent from America, and for
buildings, for day and Sunday schools, for the press
and orphanages, for college and theological seminary,
and kindred objects, the amount furnished toward
the support of our one hundred and fifty native
preachers, as Brother Parker has shown, would not
atyareo-ate more than the sum that is contributed for
the claims of four of our pastors in leading stations at
home — such is the modesty of the salaries of these
men, and also the value of the help which their mem-
bers are contributing toward making up the amount
paid them. My readers will be surprised to see, in
the statistical returns, what a numerous agency the
comparatively small amount granted, added to these
contributions of their members, does keep employed.
Thus aided (but not fully supported) by the Mission-
ary Society, they are enabled to develop indigenous
resources for work among the heathen, and are aim-
ing at increasing these results year by year. Such is
the result of our system. We wish the outcome was
larger, and expect it will become more so in a steady
growth. Yet, if any one, or any mission, can show
us a more successful method (not on paper, or in
prospect, but in actual fact and success), we shall thank
God, and be grateful to them for the example. But
we sliall be excused in having confidence in our own
method until we are shown something superior to it.

460 From Boston to Baeeilly.

Onr brethren of the South India Conference see
our work in the valley of the Ganges, and are grate-
ful for tlie power and self-reliance which it is devel-
oping. Many of them feel keenly their own inabiUty
to reach the heathen to the same extent ; but they all
cordially appreciate what their brethren in the North
India Conference are accomplishing on this line, and
the self-support that is springing up as a result among
our native members. In evidence of this fact, I may
quote some sentences from an article which appeared
in the Christian Standard^ from the pen of Rev. S.
P. Jacobs, of the South India Conference, just before
my late visit to India. This brother is a devoted
adherent of the policy which the majority of that
Conference maintains; but lie admits frankly their
inability, for want of the help which they need, but
are unable to develop in India, to realize such success
among the heathen as the North India Conference is
achieving by the assistance of that help from home,
which gave them such a vig(^rous commencement in
all the departments of the work, and which is now
continued in the increasing expectation of hastening
on the time when the work shall become self-support-
ing. Brother Jacobs says :

" I must write. I can forbear no longer. These
millions of idolaters have been moving my heart in
their behalf. How Christians in the United States
will meet these people in the day of judgment, how
I shall meet them then, and how I shall answer for

From Boston to Bareilly. 461

mj responsibility in withholding any motive from
Christians to help these people and so hindering their
coming to Christ for salvation, are questions which I
have been considering for some days.

"About a half-dozen members of the South India
Conference are now engaged in the native work, and
others feel pressed to enter it. Parallel with this call
upon men to enter the native work, is the wide door
of invitation among the natives inquiring for the gra-
cious light of God, and reading the gospels w^ith avid-
ity and listening with wonder to the story of the cross.
Hardly a day has passed for a fortnight that a score
or more of people have not come upon these premises
to examine Christian life and hear Christian doctrine.

" Just here the prospects are met by a difficulty.
The initial work among the natives must be sup-
ported by Christians. The 50,000 rupees of church
debts will not permit our little force within the South
India Conference to enter this inviting field of native
work at once. Present progress at paying these debts
will require from three to five years to free our people
from debt, provided new debts are not incurred. A
little skirmishing, of course, is carried on from the
base of our English work, but no movement worthy
of the Gospel w^e preach, or worthy of the value of
these perishing souls, can be made on present plans.

" I am conscious of treading upon disputed ground
here. There are those who will sacrifice almost any
thing to maintain the glory of a self-supporting Con-

462 From Boston to Bareilly.

ference among the heatlien. But for the South India
Conference such a pre-eminence is already made im-
possible bj the thousands of dollars sent from America
to aid our church or school work at Bombay, Calcutta,
Bangalore, and Allahabad.

" That aid from home will smite us with spiritual
paralysis, I do not believe. With full support from
home the native work in the North India Conference
is rapidly becoming self-supporting. Every appoint-
ment but one contributed to the support of the Gos-
pel. *Six appointments raised sums from 180 to 3,000
rupees ;' twenty appointments contributed sums from
41 to 72 rupees ; and Lucknow sustained entirely the
English and Hindustani Churches. Such is the record
of the past year.

" The questions submitted : Shall a general ag-
gressive movement for the salvation of these hunger-
ing millions be postponed ? or, Shall the immediate
occupancy of the field be taken with the aid of Chris-
tians at home ?

" How this help is to come, I leave for others to
answer. At present we are among the ' irregulars ; '
that is, not under the management of the Missionary
Society. We should be on the same footing as a home
Conference if we received supplemental aid from the
Missionary Society. If we continue in the present
relation, help from home must come through unof-
ficial channels if it comes at all."

Perhaps no Bishop that has visited the South India

From Boston to Bareilly. 463

Conference more fully appreciated their work and its
success and needs than did Bishop Hurst, who has
just returned from it. In a recent article in The
Christian Advocate he speaks thus of their w^ants :

'' Some tilings are greatly needed here. It makes
one's heart sick to see these few men — say forty-live
— in the midst of the man v millions. The contrast is
awful. This Conference needs one hundred more
men at this moment. It is a peculiar Conference. It
has its own way of doing things, one of which is, that
it asks no money from the Missionary Board.

" I sincerely wish, however, that to it would be
granted, and that it would accept, $50,000 a year
with which to make a great advance upon the native
population, and help to break to shreds this compact
mass of paganism in South India. The grant should
be for native work alone. The men are doing all in
their power for the natives, but they are too nnich
absorbed by the demands of the work among English-
speaking people. Draw.a line straight across India,
from Bombay to Calcutta, and all south of it is the
main field of the South India Conference. Besides,
it extends away north-west into the Punjaub, even to
Lahore itself, one of the main scenes of Lalla Eookh^
but the prosy home of millions of souls as unevangel-
ized as was the Roman empire before the Incarnation.
To this broad and ripe harvest let men come and
begin work with a will. If such men are worth hav-
ing, the English congregations will want to absorb

464 From Boston to Baeeilly.

them immediately. But let tliem go right out among
tlie natives. Let tliem learn the Hindustani imme-
diately, and begin to speak it. No man has a right
to come from America and enter either of these Con-
ferences without burying himself in the study of the
language where he is providentially placed, and aim-
ing directly at the salvation of the people speak-
ing it.

"Another great want is schools. The need has
been carefully discussed in the Conference, but too
long has it been left in abeyance. Here, then, are
the two great and terrible wants of the South India
Conference — more men for the native work and
larger funds for the schools. One cannot but won-
der, h^^ever, that the work has advanced with the
speed it already has. Our India work is a cluster of
hard knots. The problems are terribly complex. Is
it wonderful ? Here are the millions, with their tan-
gled faiths and one hundred and fortj^-seven lan-
guages." »

To every word of this I add my hearty Amen !
Surely the Church and the Missionary Society must
ere long realize the situation of these brethren.
They ask no grant for their English work.
They have sustained that, and will sustain it, by re-
sources which it supplies ; but for the support of
their schools and for the passage monej' of mission-
aries sent to them, and for other interests of their
work among the heathen, they are willing, and will

From Boston to Bareilly. 465

be grateful to receive help to enable them to develop
it vigorously. That " $50,000 per annum " would
send a thrill of joy and strength through all that
Conference, and the effects would be soon seen, to
the great satisfaction of the Church, while the grant
would release at once for its more legitimate purpose,
in the development of their work among the heathen
millions around them, the resources which they do
raise, but are now obliged to use in aid of their fee-
ble schools.

As a body they recognize the North India Confer-
ence plan of support as being on an equally script-
ural basis with their method, and seem to have
no sympathy with the exclusive or extravagant ut-
terances of any one having an overweening confi-
dence in certain theories of their own for doing
mission work, even to the extent (at least by implica-
tion) of reflecting upon the tried and approved meth-
ods of the Church of God. They do see and know
that the Head of the Church has used and richly
blessed such methods, and that controversy upon
them is not, therefore, respectful to his grace. It is
only at home that one hears occasionally remarks of
this sort. People in India are not likely to talk or
write in this way in view of existing facts, and the
brotherly sympathy and convictions entertained for
each other's work by the Lord's servants in that land.
Our two Conferences there have no antagonism;

they dwell side by side in unity and mutual apprecia-
30 •

466 From Boston to Bareilly.

tion of each other and each other's labors and success.
Of course there may be a h'ability on the part of
some brethren who are on what is called " the self-
6up23orting plan" (though, of course, that phrase can
properly apply as yet only to the work among English-
speaking Christians) to plume themselves somew4iat
on the supposition that they are sustained by a more
divine method than their brethren who are in connec-
tion with the Missionary Society, and that the contri-
butions wdiich reach themselves through " irregular
channels" are just a little more holy than the money
raised and disbursed by the parent Board. They
know well that both come from the loving sympathy
of people at home, who are equally devoted to the
Lord's missionary work, and that each is followed
by their earnest prayers. That they guard against
the temptation to think or speak otherwise is evi-
denced by the following editorial in the Indian Wit-
ness of April 5, 1884, from the pen of Dr. Thoburn,
in which he warns his brethren against allowing them-
selves to indulge in such a weakness :

" In Miss Tucker's letter, published in last week's
Indian Witness, there is a thought which deserves to
have attention particularly drawn to it. The writer
said : ' One whom the Lord graciously jpei^mits to be
enlisted for life, one whom he enables (through no
personal merit) to be independent of missionary
funds, may,' etc. There is a temptation to mission-
aries who derive their support through irregular

From Boston to Baretlly. 467

channels to think much of themselves on that ac-
count, and to look down upon their brethren as per-
sons of inferior faith. This is worse than a mistake ;
it is a snare to the men who act and think so. As
our correspondent puts it, the Lord may permit some
of his servants to find their support at a side stream,
but the main channel is his providing none the less.
The Church at large would have no opportunity of
promoting the cause of the kingdom in foreign coun-
tries if God did not lay out a broad and deep channel
for their contributions, and direct his missionaries
thither for their supplies. This providential arrange-
ment is the means by w4iich the Church at home and
the missionaries abroad are taught to feel that they
have a common interest in the evangelization of the
world."

I was equally pleased to find among our brethren
in the South India Conference a good common-sense
view of what is entitled " The Pauline Method of
Missions," and a freedom from any theory that would
strain the teaching of the Scriptures upon this sub-
ject. They know, as well as we do, that St. Paul
had no one plan — no hard-and-fast rule — to w^hich he
adhered, under all circumstances, as a means and
method of doing missionary work. Hence, w^hile
they claim for themselves tlfat they are Pauline in
their procedure, they concede, w^ith full frankness,
that their brethren of the North India Conference
are also working on Pauline methods. This is made

468 From Boston to Bareilly.

so manifest in a recent editorial of Dr. Thobum's,
that I feel it a privilege to transfer most of the arti-
cle to my pages, in the hope that its perusal will tend
to clear away the mist which has arisen around this
subject at home, and lead the friends of both Confer-
ences to rejoice in the unity of sentiment on this sub-
ject, which exists among all our brethren in India.
In the Indian Witness for May 2, 1885, Dr. Thoburn
writes :

The Pauline Method of Missions.

" A correspondent lias drawn our attention to a
recent article in the Sunday-ScJwol Times, in w^hich
the above subject is discussed from a stand-point
wholly different from the one which is usually as-
sumed when it is under review. The writer affirms
that the great missionary apostle carefully refrained
from taking money from those to whom he carried
the Gospel, lest they might be tempted to think he
sought, not them, but theirs ; and that he either sup-
ported himself by his own labor, or accepted contri-
butions for himself and those with him from distant
Churches. This is certainly a new interpretation of
his policy, but, like most of the theories which are
put before the public as ' Pauline,' it is very imper-
fect, and sets forth mucli less than half the truth.

" The apostle Paul was a man of robust common
sense, and was intensely practical in all his plans and
purposes. In discussing this question of missionary

Feom Boston to Bareilly. 469

support, in his First Epistle to the Corinthians (chap,
ix, 22), he says that he was ' made all tilings to all
men ; ' that is, that he adapted his policy to the char-
acter and circumstances of the people among whom
he went preaching the word. In Philippi he adopted
the policy of * self-support ;' that is, he permitted those
to whom he preached to provide for all his wants.
He did this, too, under circumstances which proba-
bly called for a sacrifice of pride, as the person who
entertained him free of charge was a woman, and
probably a widow ; but her offer of hospitality was
accepted, and at her house Paul and Silas found a
home during their stay. At Corinth, on the other
hand, a very different policy was adopted. At the
outset the missionaries supported themselves by their
own labor, for reasons which reflected more honor on
them than on their converts. At a later day, in the
same city and among the same people, they accepted
* appropriations,' from Philippi, and did so with pro-
fessions of profound satisfaction and gratitude.

" Here we have three Pauline methods illustrated
in tlie space of a very short ministry, and the refer-
ence to these instances ought to suffice to show how
unwise it is to lay down a modern policy on what
may be supposed to be Pauline lines, and insist on
adhering to it through thick and thin, whether it
succeeds or not. We are willing to be Pauline to
the extent of becoming all things to all men, and of
adopting each method in turn, or all methods in part ;

470 From Boston to Bareilly.

but it is more than unwise to select a single method,
and cramp every thing within its narrow compass,
without regard to time, place, or circumstances. It
is worse still — it is, indeed, almost suicidal — to get up
what might be called a battle of policies, and make it
seem that the man who draws his support from afar
is disloyal to New Testament teaching, or that the
man who is supported by those to whom he preaches
is not a real missionary, or that the man who earns
his living by the work of his hands is a mere secu-
larist. The devil will be delighted to the end, if the
friends of missions can only be induced to quit real
work and betake themselves to quarreling over ques-
tions of policy or method in this way.

" We believe it is generally agreed among mission-
aries in India — it certainly is in our own Methodist
circles — that self-support is the ultimate policy at
which all should aim. In reaching it, however, diffi-
culties are met, and there are differences of opinion
as to what extent foreign aid should be sought or
accepted. We are clearly of the opinion that no
hard-and-fast rule can be laid down, which will cover
all cases and be found practicable under all circum-
stances. Let us, then, revert to the Pauline policy of
using our sanctified common sense to determine what
is bes^ in view of all the circumstances involved. Let
us become ' all things to all men.' If those to whom
we go are suspicious or niggardly in spirit, let us
scrupulously avoid taking any thing from them ; but

FiioM Boston to Bakeilly. 471

if tliej are generous and hospitable, and if we can, by
putting ourselves under obligation to them, win their
good-will, by all means let us accept their support.
Even though they be very poor, it may be God's
plan, perhaps at the expense of our pride, to let us be
supported by them. Elijah had to accept the support
not only of a widow, but of a very poor widow, and
his doing so enriched her. The widow at Philippi
cited by Paul was not poor, but the principle illus-
trated was the same in each case. And yet every town
does not contain a widow who is worthy of this kind of
ministry ; and hence till the end come it will be neces-
sary for Christian Churches to send forth messengers
to the regions beyond, and to contribute to their sup-
port, or, as Paul used to say, ^communicate' with them
' concerning giving and receiving.' "

In order to promote permanent unity in India
Methodism, and to provide a central authority, to
whose decisions and guidance all matters of general
interest will be referred, the General Conference
of our Church provided *br the organization of a
"Central Conference" in India. This body, com-
posed of delegates from each Annual Conference,
was duly organized under the presidency of Bishop
Hurst during his visit to India in 1885. It will hence-
forth supervise all interests held in common by the
Annual Conferences, such as the general publish-
ing interests, education, courses of study, Sunday-
scliool and tract work, theological schools, and kindred

472 Fkom Boston to Bareilly.

interests. Probably the question of boundaries of
the Annual Conferences will be also left to its adjust-
ment. Ample provision has thus been made for the
growth, the unity, and efficiency of India Method-
ism, on a scale commensurate with the greatness of
the work w^liich the evangelization of one sixth of
the human family, contained in that wonderful land,
will require in the bright future which has dawned
upon it.

I will now present the statistical returns of each
of tliese Conferences, as furnished at their recent
meeting, and in the third column w^ill combine them,
so as to show my readers "what God has w^rought"
in India during the first quarter century of our
Church action in that country. I was aware that in
the usual tabular statements published in Minutes and
Keports many important items are not usually given,
which, nevertheless, in a comprehensive exhibit at
the close of a term of years like this, would aid in a
fuller realization of the work done. Accordingly, I
drew np more complete forms and sent identical
copies to the secretarj^ of each Conference, and also
to one of the presiding elders, with the request that
they would carefully fill up, to the fullest extent
possible, their own Conference statistics, and return
them to me for publication in this work. This was
done, but I had to write two or three times after
their reception in order to obtain explanations and
have omissions supplied. By the kindness of all con-

From Boston to Bareilly. 473

cerned tins at length has been accomplished, and the
Church has presented to her view on pp. 475-478
a more full and complete representation of her mis-
sions in India than she has ever before seen.

To enable my readers to appreciate the work which
w^e now record, I will first place before them, as a
point of comparison, the statistical return presented
at our first annual meeting in 1858 — which was our
starting-point at the close of the Sepoy Kebellion, and
represents the work done at ISTynee Tal during the
six months preceding the end of that struggle. In
connection with my visit to Delhi, I had delayed un-
til the road from Calcutta to Agra had been so far
cleared of the Sepoy forces that passengers could vent-
ure to come up. The two missionary families who
had been waiting at Calcutta then joined me, and we
proceeded to Nynee Tal via Mussoorie, and began
work tliere till peace and order had been restored in
the plains below. It was but the infancy of our mis-
sion. How feeble the native work appears — " one
member and four probationers ! " with thirty-five at-
tendants on worship, and forty-one scholars ! From
this we will turn, with adoring gratitude, to contem-
plate the results, as reported at the recent sessions of
tlie two Annual Conferences into which this feeble
work has developed, at the close of the first twenty-
five years. This return is taken from our first Annual
Report, as published in The Missionary Advocate for
January, 1859 :

474 From Boston to Bareilly.

Extract from the Minutes of the First Annual Meeting of the Mission
of the Methodist Episcopal Church, held in Nynee Tal, August 20, 1 858.

Statistics of our Mission in India.

1. As to the Laborers in the field.

Ordained Missionaries : William Butler, R. Pierce, J. L. Humphrey. ... 3

Preacher on Trial : J. Parsons 1

European Assistants : S. Knowles, Wesley Maxwell 2

Native Preachers : Joel Janvier, Azim All 2

" School Teachers : Samuel, Meabrit 2

Total 10

2. As to the Membership.

The Hindustanee Class : Member 1

" *' " Probationers 4

" *' " Catechumens (orphans) 6

Total 11

The Mission Class : Full Members 12

" Soldiers' " Probationers 6

Total Members, Probationers, and Catechumens — 29
8. As to Congregations.

The Hindustanee Congregation, averaging 35

" English " " 90

4. As to Schools (2 In number).

The Boys School, No. Boys 25

" Girls' " " Girls 16

Total number of Scholars 41

I. Stations of the Missions for the coming Year.

W. Butler, Superintendent.
Bareilly: J. L. Humphrey, J. Parsons, Azim Ali, Samuel.
Lucknow : R. Pierce, Wesley Maxwell, Joel Janvier.
Nynee Tal : S. Knowles, and a Native Teacher.

II. Property of the Mission.

At Nynee Tal, a Mission-house and 6K acres of Land, costing $1,650

And a Chapel and School-house in process of building, to costabout. 1,750
With School Furniture and Books, about 75

Making a total of $3,475

Of which sum the Missionary Treasury paid 1 ,350

Leaving a balance of $2,125

which was furnished by generous friends of our Mission in this country during
the past three months.

Feom Boston to Bareilly.

475

We now present the summaries of the work of the
two Annual Conferences, into which the preceding
feeble commencement has developed, as furnished by
their respective secretaries from their Minutes.

Statistical Summary of the Missions of the Methodist Episcopal
Church in India for the Year ending December, 1884 :

Numerical Statistics.

N.rtb Indiu
Coiif«iei)ce.

South India
Conterence.

25
24

44
30

49

74

36
98
32

3
9

166
3

12
56

194

112

394
31

646
24

26
24

328

73

....

1,386

483

2,2a5

2,2S3

130

100

138

9

4,698

247

30
85

502
1,158

1,907

4,813

491

238

288
847

163
28

635

191

7,186

500

139
C,0»1

60
3,147

Total.

I. Agency of the Church.

Missionaries, No. of male missionaries..
No. of female missionaries

Total foreign missionaries

Native preachers, No. ordained

Local, regularly employed in the work.
Exhorters, acting as supplies

Total natives in charge of congregations.
English local preachers

Total native and foreign preachers.

School teachers, in the day-schools

In the high schools

Teachers and officers in Sunday-schools . . .

Bible rolporteurs, regularly employed

other helpers, in Theologcal Seminary, Nor-
mal School, hospitals, dispensaries, press, etc,

Grand total of workers of all kinds.

H. Membership and Baptisms.

Native members, on probation

In full connection

Native unordained preachers

Total native membership .

English members, on probation.
In full connection

TotaJ membership, native and English.
Conversions during the year 1884

Baptisms during the year 1884, infants.
" " " adults..

Total baptisms

Adherents, or native Chrlstian.s, under pastoral
care

Regular congregations (besides bazaar au-
diences)

Average attendants on Sabbath worship. . . .

69
54

123

39
107
82

178
59

303

420
55

9T4
24

73

1,869

2,3a5

2,421

139

4,945

43-3
1,343

6,720

729

451
375

826

7,686

199
9,181

476

From Bostox to Bareilly

NCMERICAL SrAT STICS.

III. SCHOOLS.

High schools. No. of schools

No. of male pupils

No. of female pupils

Total pupils

Of these, No. of Christian boys

No. of Christian girls

Total Christian pupils

Total non-Christian pupils

Common schools, Vernacular and Anglo-ver-
nacular, No. of male schools

No. of female schools

Total schools

No. of male scholars

No. of female scholars

Total scholars, male and female

Of these. No. of Christian boys

No. of Christian girls

Total Christian scholars

Total non-Christian day scholars

Sunday -schools. No. of schools

No. of male scholars

No. of female scholars

Total Sabbath scholars

Of these. No. of Christian boys

No, of Christian girls

Total non-Christian Sabbath scholars. . . .

Orphans, No. of male orphans

No. of female orphans

Theological Seminary, No. of students

Normal School, " "

IV. The Mission Press.

No. of languages employed

Volumes issued during 1884

Pages " "

V. Woman's Foreign Missionary Society.

Missionaries, of whom three are doctors in N. I,
Assistant missionaries, English and Eurasian..

School teachers

Zenana visitors and Bible women, etc

Other native helpers iu Orphanage schools, etc,

Total agents of the W. F. M. Society —

North India South India
Conference, j Conference.

6
679
207

886

3

522

467

. .-J

989

222

207

273
272

~429
457

644

250
149

17

405

17

8,068
3,232

"11,300

984
843

1,827

1,089
811

564

7t3

1,900
9,400

1,272
555

479
12.690
5,379

"l8,069

54

2,881

~2",881

2,443

1,921

13,705

238

264

30

35

5

31,750

2,961 »000

16

m

78
139
89

6

'38

S5ii

44

From Boston to Bakeilly.

477

NCMERICAL AND FINANCIAL STATISTICS.

North India
Conference.

(W. F. M. SociKTY— Continued.)

Schools, Vernacular and Anjilo-vernacular

Zenanas regularly visited

Zenana women under regular religious in

struction

Women in villages under instruction

Orphan girls (counted under No. HI)

Girls in schools " "

Total women and girls under instruction..

Medical work, native female physicians

Medical Bible women

Assistants in hospitals and dispensarlies. . .

Medical students under training.

Patients visited in zenanas during 1884 . . .

*' treated in dispensaries

" received into hospitals

Prescriptions issued during the year

Inmates in Home for Homeless Women. . .

VI. Financial Statistics for 1884.

1. Contributions IromNativc churches :

Collections for Missionary Society

Woman's Foreign Missionary Society

Sunday-schools

Education

Current expenses, sexton, light, etc

Support of their own pastors

Total contributions from native churches

School fees from native pupils

Grants and donations from native municipalities
In aid of schools, orphanages, hospitals, etc. •

Total receipts from native sources in 1884

, Contributions from English churches and
friends in 1884 :

Collections for the Missionary Society

Woman's Foreign Missionary Society . .

Bible Society

Sunday-schools

English education and schools

Current expenses, sexton, light, etc

Support of their own pastors

Building and repairing churches and par-
sonages

Presiding elders' claims

Support of native schools, orphanage,

press, etc

Grants in Aid from government for schools,
orphanages, dispensaries, etc

Total amount from English sources in 1884.
Add receipts from native churches, etc

Grand total from all sources in India in 1884. . .

South Indiii
Conference.

118
2,095

3,195

1,880

2,687
8,027

4
3

429

16,67F

83

34

Rupees

382
385
110
349
1,61
1,88

4,725

3,85C
1,170
9,751

175
4,030
209
560
5,152
1,868
6,911

5,315

3,971

40,553

6S,744
9,751

78,495

Rupees.

5,632

■'70

3,428

48,087

30,999

48,395

19,025
1,.560

2,084

159,280

lis

2,095

3,195

1,880

264

2,687

8,027

3

6

4

3

429

16,678

83

26,247

34

Rupees.

382

110

349

1,617

1,882

4.725

3,856
1,170
9,751

5,807
4,030
279
3,968
53,239
32,867
55,306

24,340
1,560

6,055

40,553

228,0^
9,751

478

Feom Boston to Bareilly.

Financial Statistics.

North India South Indi*
I Coiil'ereiice. |Coiitcrei)ce,

VII. Property of our Church in India.

Places of worship, regular churches

Halls and school-houses where services are

held

School-houses, vncludlng common and high.

Parsonages for foreign missionaries

" for native pastors

Estimated value of this property :

Churches

Parsonages

High-school buildings

The Smith School, Mussooree

Common school buildings

Theological Seminary

Endowment of Theological Seminary. . .

Mission press and its endowment

Other endowments, by Gen. Gowan and

Major Orr .•

The orphanages on the plains and the hills

Hospitals and dispensaries

Sanitarium buildings and furniture

Itinerating equipage, tents, etc

Other Conference property

Endowment of the Native Woman's Paper

Total value of mission property In India..
Amount of debt remaining on this property. . .

VIII. EXTENT OF Aid Realized in North In-
dia Conference from 1858 to 1884.

From 1858 to 1868, as reported

1869 to 1878, partly estimated

1879 to 1882, as reported

188:3 to 1884, as reported

The Thomas endowment for the Theological

Seminary

Toward the endowment of the press

Nawab's house and land for Woman's Foreign
Missionary Society .".

Total help raised in India since 1858

(The details are found in the published reports
of the society yearly.)

Number of towns and cities where Methodism
has a standing to-day, as centers of work

Cities, towns, and villages where native Chris-
tians reside, more than

37

Rupees.

194,200
180,113
147,200

118,000
40,000

116,000
58,000

25,000
24,000
2^3,000
16,000
3,850
4,200
50,0(K)

1,008,563

227,621
138.000
89,89'
72,21'

40,000
2g,000

20,000

615,735

131
700

29

Rupees.

302,426
77,325
20,000
20,000

419,751
29,025

To God be all the glory

From Boston to Bareilly. 479

It was certainly due to the worthy English friends
of our North India Mission, under whose eyes that
work was founded, and wlio have sympathized with its
progress to tliis hour; and before whom, for twenty-
five years, have been the daily lives of our faithful
missionaries and their native assistants and members,
that this record should be made of their princely
generosity. I have named one or two of them al-
ready. These men, in all ranks of life, from the
British general to the private soldier, and from the
Viceroy of India to the humblest member of the civil
service, all alike have shown their interest in this
great work of God. When to this I add the fact,
that they were nearly all connected with other Chris-
tian denominations — not one in twenty of them be-
ing a Methodist — their generosity has been the more
disinterested and valuable to us. I feel it to be a
duty, and a privilege as well, to place on record here
the obligation of our Church and people to these
generous benefactors.

Such has been the munificent aid which those gen-
erous friends and their government, and also some
liberal native gentlemen, have extended to the work
of our Missionary Society in India. The humble of-
ferings of our own native Christians have helped,
even though but a little, in swelling this aggregate.
Here was the encouragement which led the parent
Board and General Committee to " devise those lib-
eral things" which enabled the Superintendent, as

480 From Boston to Bareilly.

advised bj Bisliop Simpson, to "lay deep and broad
foundations for Methodism in India," and which have
continued since to build up our work on the lines then
laid out for it.

The value of the rupee is forty cents. The Sec-
retary of the South India Conference regrets, in his
communication, that their statistics are not more def-
inite in several items asked for. He is my authority,
as the Minutes do not show it, for the figures of their
native membership — "being one in eight of the
whole number" — and he also adds that, of the 238
conversions during the year, 26 of that number were
natives. If the figures were furnished as fully as
those of the North India Conference, there are several
items that would have made the exhibit still more
favorable for the Soutli India Conference. But I
have inserted all the representation that was possible
with the information available to me.

In the property exhibit of the North India Con-
ference, that of the Ladies' Society is included, and
also their girl pupils in the school exhibit, but not
the zenana and village women under their instruc-
tion. The report on page 477 gives the full exhibit
of their work. I ought, also, to add that in the North
India Conference there are three of the male mission-
aries who are doctors, and there are also three doctors
among the native preachers — Harkua Wilson, Amos
Miller, and Edward Thomson. The former are
doing good service at Bareilly, Lucknow, and Agra.

From Boston to Bareilly. 481

The native physicians are in the Kumaon District,
and the following is the aggregate of their medical
services for the year past in the three stations occu-
pied by them :

Patients treated, Male 7,804

*• " Female 2,730

" •' Cliildren 1,966

Total cases 12,500

There were besides 130 surgical operations, of which
110 were minor and 20 major. It should also be ob-
served that, in the items of native liberality (beyond
the 1,882 rupees toward the support of their own pas-
tors), tliere was, as usual, some help from the mission
families in those collections — for the Missionary So-
ciety, current expenses, the native auxiliaries of the
"Woman's Foreign Missionary Society, etc. But, after
deducting this help, most of the contributions were
from the natives themselves, and the result shows
that the yearly giving is already up to 4,000 rupees
from our native membership.

It should also be stated that the Minutes of the
North India Conference show an aggregate of 99
" unpaid voluntary workers : " such as local preachers
not regularly employed in the work, native preachers'
wives acting as Bible women, etc. ; adding to these
most of the 646 Sunday-school officers and teachers,
that Conference has a band of over 700 helpers in
their force, whose services are rendered without re-
ceiving any earthly compensation for them.
31

482 FpwOm Boston to Baeeilly.

While profoundly grateful to God and his serv-
ants for this Numerical and Financial Exhibit of
our Missions at the close of the first quarter-century
of their existence, we realize that all this is but
means to the ends we aim at — the mere scaifoldins:
of the building w^hich we are erecting. Unencum-
bered property, munificent financial aid, and nu-
merical prosperity are good and necessary in their
way ; but they might all appear without a living ex-
perience of salvation, like a beautiful body without an
animating soul. The glory of a Christian mission is
in the amount of its spiritual life, and that cannot be
tabulated ; but it can be '' felt and seen " and illus-
trated in the lovely "fruits of grace." This, after
all, w^as what drew forth our deepest gratitude as we
went from station to station in our mission. We
realized that our native membership had a Christian
experience ; that they were able to live their religion,
and to die w^ell, when they came to die. And, when
to this we found added a converted native ministry,
called by the Holy Spirit to the work, we felt that
the highest gifts of God had been bestowed upon our
mission, and that our hearts need feel no solicitude in
regard to its permanence, for here were the essential
and divine elements of its future life and usefulness.

What that work is capable of, in meeting and over-
throw^ing this colossal and organized heathenism, was
gloriously illustrated in March, 1885, at Ajudhiya,
where, amid the din and madness of a preposterous

From Boston to Bareilly. 483

idolatry, in which fifty or sixty thousand people had
assembled, according to custom, to worship Hanuman,
the monkey -god, two of our native ministers, Am-
bica Charn Paul and Chimman Lai, with one or two
helpers — men full of faith and of the Holy Spirit,
were honored of God during those three days to ac-
complish for him the most glorious work yet known
in that land. A brief description of it, in two letters
from Kev. B. II. Bad ley, will lead ray readers to bow
their heads, as I do mine, before the display of this
wonderful grace of God. The happy missionary
writes :

"It is safe to say that at no mela^ in j^orth India
at least, has there been such a manifestation of the
saving power of Christ as at Ajudhiya this week.
The great ^ Ram Naomi ' mela^ held in this sacred
city, the birthplace of Eam Chandra, as the Hindus
declare, was largely attended ; several of our native
preachers from Lucknow, Rev. Chimman Lai, Philip
Andrew, and a colporteur, together w^ith Rev. A. C.
Paul, of Barabanki, went to Ajudhiya last Monday.
On Tuesday morning, the 24th, before beginning the
day's work, the brethren engaged in prayer in their
tent. A poor leper, a Brahmin, heard and drew near
the tent : some by-standers said jestingly to the breth-
ren, * Here is a hopeful case for you ; make this man
a Christian.' The brethren had the man come into
the tent, and one of them began praying: at once
the power of God was manifested, the leper began to

484 Fkom Boston to Bareillt.

pray in the name of Jesus, and with tears streaming
down his face he soon confessed Christ had heard and
saved him. He cast away his janeu (sacred thread)?
gave his necklace of praying beads to tlie brethren,
and with a joyful heart started out to tell the story.
He had made many pilgrimages to Budrinath, Be-
nares, and elsewhere, seeking rest, but all in vain, and
now at last liad found salvation. During his baptism a
jpundit and his disciple came up, and these, too, were
convinced of sin and began praying; others joined
the company and the tent was surrounded with in-
quirers. These were all seated, men, women, and
children, and the brethren began explaining the
Gospel message : the hearts of the people were
touched, and scores were at once baptized, men, women,
and children, family after family. All were baptized
with their old names, except the leper, who went
about declaring that he had found the true gydn
(knowledge) and was happy in Christ ; he was given
the name ' Gyan Masih, (one who knows Christ);
a woman who was baptized showed such earnestness
in inviting the people to come to Christ that she
was named ' Masih Dasi ' (handmaiden of Christ).
The preachers taught their new converts several Hindi
hymns, and these were sung with much spirit, while
in the very shadow of the famous temple ' Hanu-
man Garhi ' (Hanuman's Fort) scores were joyously
shouting ' Yictory to the Lord Jesus Christ ! ' ( Jai
Prabhu Yisu !) The police looked on in amazement.

From Boston to Bareilly. 485

There was no confusion or difficulty. After preach-
in o- in the mela the brethren invited those who desired
to become Christians to come to the tent, and numbers
followed at once, and after being instructed and con-
fessing Christ were baptized.

" The first day (Tuesday) 96 were baptized ; the
second (Wednesday, the great day of the meld)^ 102 ;
and the third (Thursday), 50 ; in all, 248. The names
of all were carefully written. About a score live in
Ajudhiya, and will form the nucleus of a Methodist
Church there ; others live in the surrounding villages ;
but most of them live in the I^orth-west Provinces,
beyond the Ganges. All were directed to make their
way at once to the nearest missionary or Christian
village and report themselves as brethren.

" It is very significant that out of this large num-
ber of converts the majority were Brahmins ; nearly
one third were women ; one third were children ;
and entire families wxre baptized.

" oS^o American missionaries were present. The
two native ordained preachers baptized the converts.
They and their helpers were all greatly blessed, and
say that the place was filled with the presence of God.
They had gone with prayer and were prepared for the
great work. They are among the best native preachers
in the North India Conference, while Brother Chim-
man Lai is a beautiful singer," as well as a poet and
musician. He has written a number of hymns which
are in use among us, and is constantly adding to the

486 FfiOM Boston to Bareilly.

number. He is our Conference Sankey, a most suc-
cessful worker, greatly l)lessed of God. • On this oc-
casion the people came in scores and listened to the
singing, joining in the choruses as soon as they
learned them. As great results will attend the sing-
ing of the Gospel in India as have in other lands, and
Methodism has a great work liere in preparing hymns
and popularizing them — displacing the licentious
songs which, wedded to beautiful tunes, are sung far
and wide. With Brother Chimman Lai to prepare
original hymns, and Brother Isaac Fieldbrave to trans-
late Western hymns, and a press to publish them in
the language spoken by seventy -five millions of these
people, we are ready for the great opportunities which
are opening before us.

" It is worth remarking that in January last a
native preacher in an adjoining zillah wrote Dr.
Johnson, presiding elder of the district, asking that
he might be appointed to' Ajudliiya, as he felt in his
heart that there would be a great work there. This
desire was entirely spontaneous, as nothing had been
said to the man regarding a preacher being sent to
Ajudliiya.

" The results of this pentecostal outpouring cannot
be too highly estimated. Tlie city was shaken, and
the people were amazed as they saw the scores of
their own idolatrous 'countrvmen flockino^ to the
standard of the Lord Jesus Christ. On the railwa}^
when the mela closed and the people were departing,

From Boston to Bareilly. 487

it was a common topic of conversation, and the 248
were multiplied to a ^ thousand.'

" The list of their names, with their ages written, is
before me as I write ; and as I glance down the long
list I cannot keep from saying for every name, for
every man, woman, boy, and girl : ' Praise God !
Praise God ! ' Several w^ere old men, some w^ere
men of good position. These all promised, on reach-
ing their homes, scattered here and there throughout
the provinces, to report to the nearest missionaries or
native Christians. We shall do our utmost to follow
.them, and daily pray that they may be graciously kept
and divinely shepherded. We are praying that this
may be but the beginning of a great spiritual harvest
in l^orth India. God is with us, and our hearts are
filled with singing. Pray that the hundreds may
grow into thousands this year."

These *' pentecostal days at Ajudhiya" are astonish-
ing many in India, who have long labored and waited
for the kingdom of God. It is coming " with power."
All the facts forbid the idea of there being insincerity
or superficiality in this reception of mercy by these
people, or in its free and cordial offer by these honored
native ministers. The cause and effects were manifest-
ly similar to those displayed in the case of Philip and
the stranger Eunuch, St. Paul and the Philippian
jailer, Cornelius and his friends, and others mentioned
in Holy Writ. No higher evidence of human sin-
cerity need be looked for than w^hen a lordly Brah-

488 Fkom Boston to Bareilly.

Ill in consents to bend in penitential bumilltj at tlie
feet of a man as destitute of caste as is Cliimman
Lai, and entreats him to pour from liis liand upon
that proud head the water which forever breaks this
Bralimin's caste. When, in addition, this " aristocrat
by creation," voluntarily and promptly takes off from
liis breast the emblem and outward sign of his nobility,
and hands it over, with his string of praying beads, to
the administrator of the holy rite, he has done all that
man can do in India to prove his earnestness and
honesty. But on this occasion there were 127 of these
Brahmins who did all this, and that, too, in- public and
before thousands of their own people, who had hith-
erto honored them as the clergy caste, and nobility of
their country ! Yes, indeedj such men must be sin-
cere ! There was no earthly motive that could mingle
w^ith that scene. It was pure spiritual conviction and
strong desire for salvation in Christ, and they found
what they so promptly and earnestly sought, and
" went on their way rejoicing " to their homes, where
they are now, no doubt, telling their friends what
they obtained by simple faith in the Lord Jesus
Christ. The Church to whom God "gives this in-
crease " has a heavy responsibility to follow up her
own success, and to see to it that these people are
closely looked after, and drawn into intimate rela-
tions with the means of grace, and " taught the way
of God more perfectly."

This divine manifestation has added additional and

From Boston to Bareilly. 4S^

startling evidence of the spiritual susceptibility of the
natives of India. They, indeed, have hearts, and
hearts that can yield promptly to the gracious influ-
ences of the Holy Spirit. Perhaps hitherto we have
been appealing too exclusively to tlieir intellects and
too little to their spiritual natures ; not realizing how
readily these latter might yield to Christian sympa-
thy and personal appeal. Commenting upon the re-
sults, the editor of the Indian Witness gives ex-
pression to sentiments which intimate ''the gift of
power" that is coming upon our missionaries, and the
glad results which we may henceforth look for in
that land. His words may apply at home as well as
in India. He says :

" There is here a great lesson for those who would
win souls for Christ. It is unnecessnry to spend in-
genuity, and still less time, in preparatory courses.
Whatever intellectual difficulties an intelligent Hindu
feels in the way of accepting Christianity, there is in
his mind, along with his religious speculation, but
distinct from it, a longing for spiritual rest, and if
that be clearly offered to him in tlie name of Christ,
he may clutch at it and wait for the solution of his
doubts at another time. This was plainly shown by
Mr. Knovvles, in his letter published recently in the
Indian Witness^ and he had good reason to know
whereof he wrote. Moreover, he confessed freely
that his faith had not always been equal to that man-
ner of work. When his faith was weaker, his aim

490 From Boston to Bareilly.

was poorer. The fact to be remembered is, that the
Holy Ghost, whose special office it is to convict the
world of sin, of righteousness, and of judgment to
come, has usually been at work upon men's consciences
before they hear the Gospel : so that the message of
salvation falls upon ears on the alert for something of
the kind.

" The chief point in preaching is to deliver the mes-
sage in full faith that it is divinely adapted to the
cases in hand and will be accepted. The importance
of this cannot be overestimated. If there be uncer-
tainty in the preacher's mind as to the present efficacy
of the salvation he offers, that uncertainty will in-
evitably betray itself in his spirit, and his hearers will
not put more faith in his message than he has in it
himself. This faith is the gift of God. There is
something out of order in a messenger of Christ Avho
does his errand with misgivings about the result. He
is doubtless sincere, but his faith is defective. And
it is often a consciousness of this uncertain grasp of
the truth that makes preachers content to do their
part in keeping the gospel machinery going, or at
most, willing to hope that a future day will bring a
wave of success upon their efforts."

Surely the Church at home, which originated this
work, must now begin to feel her heart deeply touched
with the value which she must henceforth attach to
this enterprise, in view of the grace and the honor
which God is putting upon it. She can now go to

From* Boston to Bareilly. 491

her missions to attest her theology, and gather inspi-
ration from them even for lier own home work.
Blessing others she will herself be blessed.

There is another very important result that will
arise out of this manifestation of grace which I would
like tD draw attention to before closing the subject.
And I find the point so well presented by Dr. Tho-
burn, that I will borrow a few sentences from his
article. Commenting upon this " JS'ew Missionary
Era " which has dawned upon the North India Con-
ference, he says :

"For some years past we have steadily maintained
the view that the cause of Christian missions in India
was about to enter upon a new era. Much had been
done in the past, but the work had, for the most part,
been carried on within narrow lines. The massive
force of Hinduism had never been broken, and con-
verts from Islam had been gathered in by twos and
threes, bat never in such numbers as to break the
Mohammedan ranks at any one point. Tlie only ex-
ception to this remark, we believe, was in Bengal,
where some years ago a large community of Moham-
medans embraced the Christian faith ; but these peo-
ple were hardly orthodox Mohammedans, and would
not have been accepted as such in North India. The
Brahmin lines, however, had never been broken.
Here and there one, two, or three converts had been
gathered in from the Brahmin and higher castes, but
we think we are correct — and we hope to be put

492 From Boston to Bareilly.

riglit if mistaken — in saying that never in the his-
tory of missions in India has any considerable "nnm-
ber of Brahmins been baptized in a body. Tlie
unconditional acceptance of Christianity on a Isew
Testament basis has as yet been confined to isolated
converts from the higher castes.

"The recent baptisms at the Ajndhiya mela put a
new phase upon this peculiar feature of mission work
in India. In all two hundred and forty-eight persons
were baptized, ' the majority of whom were Brah-
mins.' The significance of this statement can hardly
be overestimated. One man's soul is, of course,
worth no more than another's, and a Brahmin stands
no higher in God's sight than a sweeper; but the
Brahmins have been hedged about in such a way that
it has seemed next to impossible to reach them ; and
it is a cause of rejoicing that access to them at last
seems to have been gained, and that their hearts are
as open to receive the word of life as the hearts of
the people of lower castes.

" We cannot believe that this extraordinary move-
ment in the Ajudhiya mela will end with the disper-
sion of the people who attended the fair. A hundred
thousand busy tongues will tell the story over and
over again, and by this time it is known to ten mill-
ions of people in Xorth India that Brahmins and
other high-caste people are accepting Christianity
freely. The effect of this will be to break the spell
which has so long held the mass of the people. It is

From Boston to Bareilly. 493

popularly believed that Christianity is only adapted
to low-caste people, and that. Brahmins are clad in an
armor of social and religious sanctity which makes
them invulnerable against the Christian preacher. It
avails little to poini; to one or two Brahmin converts
among the Christian preachers. The fact that they
are so few in number seems only to coniirm the people
in their notion of the general rule, and they rest qui-
etly in the conviction that a religion which cannot
reach the Brahmins must be inferior to that which the
Brahmins profess. A few more occurrences like this,
and this notion will be dispelled forever. The peo-
ple will see, and quickly realize, that a power greater
than Brahminism is at work in their midst, and how-
ever reluctant they may be to accept the Christian
religion, they will begin to regard it with a respect,
a reverence, which they have never known before."

At another mela since held, at Mahmad Gunge,
twenty-five more persons of the same classes were
baptized ; and tliere are other recent instances which
I might quote, so that already it would seem a
larger number have been added to the Church there
within four months since Conference than have been
added in any whole year in the history of the mis-
sion. They are evidently entering upon times of
great power — "years of the right hand of the Most
High ;" and it behooves our Church now to re-enforce
her work, and, pushing the battle to the very gate,
capture India for Christ as fast as she possibly can.

494 From Boston to Bareilly.

"What an evidence of this increasing power was the
dedication, in the fall of 1885, of our new church in
the city of Cawnpore ! Situated in the center of
the city, this beautiful church — the largest and most
complete native church in Xorth India — was dedi-
cated to the worship of God amid circumstances of
the most encouraging character. Here, where the
blood of several hundred Christian people was shed
amid scenes of unparalleled cruelty by the ]N^ana Sa-
hib, in 1857, Methodism has erected a Christian
church that is a joy to look at ; complete in all re-
spects, with its tower and bell and clock, and school
building attached. The people of the city manifested
a lively interest in the enterprise, and even a few
Hindus offered to subscribe toward its erection. On
the day of its dedication the edifice was crowded to
its utmost capacity, about twelve hundred persons
being present. Such was the interest which the
event excited that several zenana ladies came in their
palankeens to attend the service, a part of the gallery
having been curtained off for their sjjecial use, where
they could see and hear without being themselves
seen ! And this in Cawnpore, where those beloved
Presbyterian bretln-en and sisters, and hundreds of
others with them, endured the most cruel martyrdom
for the Lord Jesus known since the days of Xero and
Caligula ! Yes, even here, " the blood of the martyrs
is the seed of the Church ! " But it is the glorious
future that is thus intimated, of which I think, as I

From Boston to Bareillt. 495

read with surjirise and joj of the present events at
Ajudhija and Cawnpore. This is only the dawn ; but
what a day it is ushering in for poor India, when her
" sun shall no more go down ; neither shall " her
" moon withdraw itself : for the Lord shjill be " her
"everlasting light, and the days of" her "mourning
shall be ended ! "

Her candid and intelligent visitors all alike recog-
nize in the present success the intimations of this
coming gl^ry. The last, and one of the most compe-
tent of these visitors, expressed his delight and antici-
pations at the opening session of the North India
Conference in Bareilly, January 7, 1885. From a ver-
hatim report by one of the missionaries of Bishop
Hui'st's address on that occasion, I take the following
portion. The Bishop said :

" I come to you, dear brethren, bringing the salu-
tations of the Church at home. When doubtful
missionary fields are spoken of at home we think of
various countries, but never of India. The work here
is, beyond a doubt, successful. I have now been in
India two months, examining the work of our Church.
I think it would take more than two years to see it
all and see it w^ell. I wish I could be here a year —
and that would be too short a time to satisfy my own
wishes.

" I am pleased with all I have seen of India Meth-
odism. The work is infinitely beyond what I expected
to find. I was not uninformed ; I have read various

496 From Boston to Bareilly.

books on India, as well as all tliat has appeared in the
public prints, and your letters in our various Advo-
cates / but I was not prepared for what I see. I lind
a surprise every hour. Some things I am amazed at :

"1. Your choice of church property. Every -where
you have bought wisely, beautifully, and it is very
evident that you have bought to stay. Your build-
ings are well located ; I am not surprised that it is so
here in Bareilly where we have met ; we have this
beautiful church ; just yonder the Remington Hall,
the home of your theological seminary ; across the
way your Girls' Orphanage. So it is in other cities.

" 2. Your schools are prospering. In New En-
gland the spring sun calls out the life and beauty of
the vegetable world — the sturdy oak, the budding,
leafing tree, the beautiful rose — all forms of life are
developed by the genial sun ; so here, you have not
only churches, but schools for boys and for girls ; you
have Orphanages as well, and thus the light of the
Gospel brings life and development in many varied
ways.

" 3. Your publishing interests are well cared for
and full of promise. This gives great reason for re-
joicing. I recognize this as a very important depart-
ment. Here, as elsewhere, our Church has not been
able to utilize the books by others, and you have had
to create your own literature, as you will have to do
in the future.

" We have met to-day for our Conference session

Fkom Boston to Bakeilly. 497

— brought, many of us, thousands of miles, in peace
and safety to this place. Blessed be God for his
abounding mercies! The eyes of the whole Church
are upon you ; your names are familiar in America.
In the company before me are those who have been
away from you for a time, now with you again, glad
to be here. I have read about the Corsican, how the
fragrance of the flowers of his native land so gets
into his nature that wherever he goes this fragrance
tells his presence and his nationality ; so it seems to
me it is with India missionaries at home on furlough ;
they do not call America home ; their thoughts go
back to this distant land ; they are restless, and are
never at home until they land in India. It is this
perfect enthusiasm in your work which makes you
successful.

" Tliis work of yours is a glorious one. People all
about you have sprung into beautiful lives through
your efforts, and many who are in heaven to-day are
the fruit of your labor. 'No mission has in fuller
measure the confidence of the Church than yours.

"We shall have a grand future in India. You

have many forms of error to meet and overcome. I

am amazed at the bravery of soul with which you are

attacking these. If you seek for heroism, you do not

need to go yonder to the Lucknow Kesidency, where

Havelock fought and Lawrence fell ; you will find it

in tlie men and women who to dav are battlinir asrainst

error in the many mission fields of India. You have
82

408 From Boston to Bareilly.

gone to work to meet the questions of to-day with
great faith and courage. We believe the future will
be grander even than the past.

" Tlie Woman's Foreign Missionary Society has
won great laurels in India, as elsewhere. With its
' first decade ' we are all familiar ; the second decade
will be brighter still. I am glad to see so many of
the workers of this Society here to-day — so many fresh
from America, earnest, consecrated ladies, who have
crossed three seas and one ocean to take their places
in your midst. May God bless them ; and may his
richest blessings rest upon the noble women at home,
whose helping hands reach across tliese seas to touch
and save the heathen women of India ! "

Nothing more need be added to this to show the
Church the value and opening prospects of her pre-
cious work in that wonderful land ' save the Bishop's
own words, written in Europe on his return from In-
dia, showing the full result of liis reflections upon
what he had witnessed there. It was written to the
Missionary Secretaries and the Board, and was by
them printed in a circular and sent out to the Chuich.
Bishop Hurst says : " If from all the lands where our
people are now singing centennial psalms our Church
were suddenly blotted out, there is aggressive force
in India Methodism alone to sail to all the continents
and plant it over again."

This is enough. Xo more appreciation need be de-
sired. The climax was reached when tliese words

From Boston to Bareilly. 499

were written. As the liumble founder of the North
India Mission, I pause here to recognize gratefully the
infinite mercy of God that has been over me and my
work from its inception to this glad hour. I may
now be indulged, at this point, with a few candid and
grateful reminiscences regarding my own relation to
that work, without any liability, I hope, of being
misunderstood.

In doing this I may, perhaps, seem, in the apostle's
sense, to '^ speak as a fool," but surely I may be borne
with in doing so. This glorious birth of spiritual
good was not accomplished without a travail of soul
corresponding to its importance and value, and in
this my own heart has had its prominent share. I
appreciate the self- forge tfulness in the quotation,

" 'Tis magnanimity to hide the wound ; "

and who that is heroic would do otherwise on the
iield of battle ? But the conflict is over, and, amid
the joy of the victory which we now experience,
reminiscences to the honor of supporting grace may
be appropriate. So St. Paul thought, when he enu-
merated his own grand endurances, and declared that
he wore his scars as badges of sacred honor, and glo-
ried in his sufferings for the Lord Jesus Christ.

It is well we do not know in advance the toil and
trials which we are to meet in our path of duty. God
wisely hides from our eyes what might discourage, and
calls us to walk by faith, leaning on him alone for

500 From Boston to Baeeilly.

support and guidance. What a list of discourage-
ments 7night have been put into our hands, bj some
foreseeing power, on the day when we stepped on
board that steam-ship, in Boston liarbor, in 1856 !
Our hearts were yearning for the two dear boys we
liad then to leave behind ; and here that list might
have begun its discouraging enumeration, and said to
us : " That oldest boy you are never to see again, for
he will die in your absence ; two more of your pre-
cious ones you will leave behind in India when your
work is done, and you will also have to bury the
fourth one in his young manhood in a Mexican cem-
etery, so that their graves will be twelve thousand
miles asunder ! You will go straight with your dear
ones almost into the jaws of death, and have to pass
through the greatest emergency civilization has ever
known on the Eastern hemisphere. For fifteen months
you will be exposed "in peril among the heathen and
in the wilderness," standing in jeopardy every hour,
and will be given up as dead. When you come forth
from that circle of fire, keen sufferings will await you.
The Asiatic cholera and the sun-stroke, oi3hthalmia
and other ailments, will in succession bring you again
into the very presence of death, and almost close
your career. Then, when emerging from these, your
hardest toil and heaviest responsibilities will be only
beginning, in laying out, developing, and providing
for the extensive work of God which you are expected
to found and superintend in that land. Nearly one

From Boston to Bareilly. 501

hundred agents in the field will have to be helped and
satisfied in their work ; and while carrying this care
and toil those who sent you will sometimes seem to
fail you, so that you will be criticized and even
checked, because you appear to them to be going too
fast, or to have taken too extensive a field to occupy,
and for requiring so large a portion of the Churcirs
funds for its cultivation. Your soul will mourn when
you find you cannot please every one concerned — all
in the field and all at home — till your nights become
sleepless, and head and heart will ache because you
will fear that your extensive plans of work are not
understood or adequately appreciated. The keenest of
these heart-aches will be w^hen the limited liberality
of the Church leads the authorities at home to restrain
your action and curtail your work in tlie presence of
millions of dying men whom your soul will yearn to
save ! "

This is only a part of what might be enumerated,
and is all sober truth, without a word of exaggeration.
Only God himself knows the solicitude which this
one poor, weak heart, held to such responsibility, car-
ried for this blessed cause ; while back of it all laj^ the
consideration that 1 was only " a stranger and foreign-
er," doing this work for my adopted Church and
country, and realizing that it became me modestly to
avoid, lest I should be misunderstood, the self-assertioa
which a native American might suitably assume under
such responsibilities. I say not this because of any

502 Feom Boston to Bareilly.

reason given me to doubt their consideration for me
and the office I held under these circumstances. 'No,
indeed ; mj dear brethren in the field were consider-
ate, and even magnanimous toward me, and these
pages contain abundant proof that I was fully aware
of it, and loved them for their honorable bearing to-
ward me from first to last — from 1858 to 1884.

My entire reference is known to God alone, who
saw my solicitude and how profoundly I respected the
authorities who had commissioned me, as well as my
earnest desire to bear conscientiously the responsibil-
ities which they had laid upon me. But I never for-
got that in all this I was not serving man, but God,
and that to him I should have to answer in the judg-
ment day for the appreciation and use of the great op-
portunity. I felt then — and feel to-day more fully —
that he had called me to this great work, and would
go with me to it, and be with me in it, removing the
impediments from my path and sustaining me till that
work was done. The farther I went in that line of
duty the more convinced I became of the divine guid-
ance and purpose. When I reached the Gangetic
Yalley, and saw that preventing power removed, God
seemed to say to me, '' I have set before thee an open
door, and no man can shut it." That door was, in-
deed, " wide and effectual," and my plans had to con-
form themselves to the circumstances of that magnifi-
cent valley and its twenty millions of souls. I realized
strongly that the Almighty knew the ability, present

From Boston to Bareilly. 503

and prospective, of the Church which I represented,
and that in calling her to India (where one sixth of
our race was to be affected by her presence) he evi-
dently did not intend that she should be represented
there by a little puny mission that in a hundred years
of labor could not reach the heart of India and touch
it for Christ.

The Board, the General Committee, and even the
Corresponding Secretary might look serious, and even
hesitate about assuming such an obligation as this was
to be — for faith then was weaker and less intelligent
than it is to-day. But God was pressing us up to the
duty which we had to fulfill for him. So, all parties
— the superintendent included — were alike carried
beyond themselves, and their first small plans, out
into purposes and opportunities that were worthy of
the great work to which " the Lord of the harvest "
was calling them. What wonderful reading now is
that voluminous correspondence upon this subject.
How I was cautioned and instructed — sometimes al-
most censured. But the help I developed from those
generous English friends — who caught the enthusiasm
of our extensive plans — and my own pleadings, encour-
aged the Corresponding Secretary and the Board, so
that they kindly (though often reluctantly) allowed
me to have my own way. Meanwhile the Church,
seeing what was being done, responded with increas-
ing liberality for her share, and the finances rose, year
by year, to the height required, and good Dr. Dnrbin

504 Fkom Boston to Baretlly.

stood by me to the last. His hopes were fulfilled, and
one of the greatest joys of his life was realized when
the mission to India rose to the dignity of an Annual
Conference of the Methodist Episcopal Church !

What else could I do than what I did ? There be-
fore me lay a sight which the Secretary and the
Church could only hear of — the plenteous harvest of
unsaved humanity, 20,000,000 in number, within our
own field ; while " the Lord of the harvest " was
calling for "more laborers," and Bishop Simpson's
words were ringing in my memory, " Brother Butler,
lay deep and broad foundations for Methodism in In-
dia ! " O, I thank God my faith and courage did not
fail me ; not for a moment, even amid the hot fires
of 1857, or when Dr. Durbin (awe-struck with the
carnage) wrote and gave me full leave to reconsider
the field I had chosen, and change it for another, if,
on reflection, I thought I had selected one too hard to
be a safe position for doing mission work. I am equal-
ly grateful that I did not flinch under the pressure of
the_ timid counsels and opinions of some who thought
I should do better by adopting their limited views of
the work and how it was to be laid out.

No ; my Letter of Instructions defined my respon-
sibility, and conceded to me a large discretion in
meeting the great opportunity for our Church. God
was with me every hour, and my trust in his guidance
was simple, but immeasurable ; so I stood up to the
duty laid upon me, and had neither fear nor doubt,

From Boston to Bareilly. 505

Who now regrets that I took counsel of my faith and
assumed the full responsibility of my commission,
throwing upon my Church the onus of cultivating
that grand field which I had selected for her, honor-
ins: her in doinor so ? I do not ; but shall o-o down to
the grave grateful that to me was given the opportu-
nity of committing her to its cultivation. Nor does
any of my brethren amid our extending work in India,
where they rejoice in the field which they occupy,
and in the hopeful race whom they are evangeliz-
ino^. Nor does Dr. Durbin in heaven, nor our livino^
Church to-day, nor the adorable Head of the Church
himself. Our denomination is surely richer for what
she has done for India, and is all the better prepared
to accomplish the work to which our fathers' God is
leading her onward. The help of a Church of such
resources means much to him in the realization of his
promise to liis Son : " I shall give thee the heathen
for thine inheritance, and the uttermost parts of the
earth for thy possession."

So here I stand, and take this look over all the
way which this book records, and the path along
^'hich God has led us. Wliatever it may have in-
volved to us of solicitude, or bereavement, or trial, I
see now that all was for the best. I would not change
a single fact, nor ask exemption from any pain of
mind or body which the duty involved. The close
of the quarter-century has explained and glorified it
all; and now, beyond former experience, I know the

506 From Boston to Bakeilly.

outcome in which what we call mysterious providen-
ces can terminate, and the meaning of the lines :

" Who shall so forecast the years,
And find in loss a gain to match,
Or reach a hand through time to catch

Tlie far-off interest of tears ? "

Gladly would I go through it all again, and far
more, if God so w^illed, to accomplish the same
results, even with full knowledge in advance of what
it would cost the heart in the way of endurance.
The discipline and sorrow which duty often involves
work out the highest results to those who are exer-
cised thereby. The personal benefits acquired by
sanctified trial, has led multitudes of God's faithful
ones to know forever :

" Amid my list of blessings infinite

Stands this the foremost, that my heart has bled;

For all I tliank thee, most for the severe."

Our Saviour was made perfect by suffering, and we
may be, and find at last our life-work all the dearer
to us for every care and toil that it cost us here
below. *

Such were the reflections that filled my heart as
I crossed the Ganges in 1883, and recalled the
emotions which moved my soul at the same crossing
in December, 1856. I was then a stranger, without
a welcome, and all was dark and forbidding. But
here I was joyously reminded of the patriarch's glad

From Boston to Bareilly. 507

reflection : '*' With my staff I crossed over this Jor-
dan, and now I am become two bands!" The long
years of toil and anxiety liad been crowned, and thou-
sands of grateful and loving Christian hearts in that
valley were now waiting to welcome us ! O, w^onder-
ful change ! I remembered Dr. Reid's words at the
farewell meeting in JN^ew York, the night before
we sailed on this voyage, and realized how true to
the sentiments of my heart they were : *' I would
rather found a mission than found an empire." What
hallowed compensation, for any toil and sacrifice, have
we received ! So,

"After all my wanderings through this world of care,
And all my griefs, and God has given me my share,"

I bless him that T have lived to see this day, and
to look upon these glad results ! My heart bowed
before him in adoration as I there recalled Dr. Dur-
bin's words, written to strengthen me, in April, 1856,
when he sympathized with our lonely and unsus-
tained position, and said : " Be of good courage, and
let those yet to come say, ' William Butler founded
this mission.' " Amen ! and, again, to God be all the
glory !

Poor India ! A few more words about her before
I terminate this book. She is to-day the most awful
example on earth of the damnable nature of idolatry.
There is a land which is one of the garden spots of
this globe ; a land with a history running back for

508 From Boston to Bareillx-.

four thousand years, having boundless wealth, and a
sixth of the world's population within her borders.
She was in her splendor when our forefathers were
half-naked savages in English forests. Her scholars
were then writing her great epics, and calculating
eclipses. Hundreds of years before the Incarnation
the fame of her greatness had reached the court of
Solomon, and he borrowed some of her superfluities
to increase the " glory " of his capital. But she has
taken a long departure from the religious simplicity
of those times, and is to-day the head and highest
example of the world's idolatry. In the greatness of
her guilt and folly she lias wandered so far from the
original righteousness of a belief in the unity of
God, that she has multiplied her deities until her
"learned Pundits" are said to declare that their Pan-
theon contains 330,000,000 of them ! Every one of
these she has invented. The Lord rebuked Israel be-
cause their gods had become at last as numerous as

*
their cities. What, then, must he, the jealous God,

" who will not give his glory to another, or his praise
to graven images," think of India, a country which,
according to this preposterous enumeration, has a
god and a half for every Hindu in the land ! The
recent census shows that her shrines are served by
601,164 heathen priests. So tliat there is a Brahmin
priest for every three hundred and thirty persons of
that population ! Every god she has added, and
every additional priest slie accepted, has deepened

Fkom Boston to Bareilly. 509

her debasement, and taken her farther away from
truth and righteousness. Modern Hinduism is far
more degrading than was the ancient form. The old
gods of the Yedic times (who have been forsaken for
the modern monstrosities) had some respectability of
character about them, but the deities of to-day have
sunk the nation so low that it was "perishing in its
own corruption " when the Gospel of Christ entered
the land, and began, by missionary teaching and
Christian law, to arrest the dreadful downward tend-
ency.

The record is atrocious. Idolatry was fully justify-
ing, by its matchless cruelty, the Lord Jehovah's de-
nunciation of it. For under the sanction of gods and
goddesses, who were deified Thugs, and delighted in
human blood, even helpless female infancy was re-
morsely sacrificed, and tens of thousands of beautiful
women were immolated in their suttees in honor of
these " divine " monsters. The clergy of India — its
Brahmin priesthood — instead of protesting, gave the
system their fullest sanction, urging on the devilish
crimes, and putting the golden gains derived from
them into their hungry purses.

In this deep departure from truth and holiness the
men and the women of India are more degraded than
any other heathen by the popular objects of their
adoration, for they have sunk so low that they are
groveling before idols as preposterous as a monkey-
god, and worshiping symbols of sensuality which de-

610 From Boston to Bareilly.

cencj forbids to be named. Poor, deluded, misguided
souls ! how much tliej need our Christian pity and help
to aid them, so " that tliey may recover themselves
out of the snare of the devil, who are taken captive by
him at his will."

Perhaps no human mind this side of eternity can
form an adequate conception of ilndfearfnl cpailt and
debasing effects of tlie sin of idolatry. In its mental
and material manifestations it is the crime of criuies
— the prolific parent of selfishness, licentiousness, and
denial of God. ]^o wonder the Lord Almighty pro-
nounces the heaviest maledictions of his holy law
against this crime, and declares that no " idolater hath
any inheritance in the kingdom of Christ and of God."
Heaven is closed against all such.

Here, then, is our obligation — to save India from
this fearful guilt, which is the cause of all her woe
and sorrow, and turn her from her " dumb idols, to
serve the living God." Glorious mission ! Honored
forever will be the men and the women who are en-
gaged in working out her redemption, and upon all
who help and sympathize with them in their blessed
toil. She can be redeemed. Already her salvation
has commenced, and they have begun to " cast their
idols to the moles and to the bats," and the blessed
Christ is receiving them graciously, and saving their
souls. Church of God, press on the work ! India
is a glorious prize to win from the kingdom of dark-
ness. The overthrow of her colossal and organized

Fkom Boston to Bareilly. 611

heathen ism would be the knell of doom to every other
" false god" upon this earth. The Hindu Pantheon,
with its millions of " abominable idolatries," w^ould
carry down in its ruin the polytheism of all Asia.
That overthrow, when it comes, will realize to the
' heart of Christendom a thrill of victory more full and
ecstatic than that heart has ever felt before. Heaven
and earth will unite to celebrate this matchless fact of
the Redeemer's triumph over the prostrate heathen-
ism of the world. Long ago it was foretold that " the
idols he shall utterly abolish," the hundreds of mill-
ions of those in India included. Then will have come
the glad hour when

" To adorn the worsliip of the One
A universe of gods has passed away,"

and " the Lord alone shall be exalted in the earth."
Christian India! Redeemed at last from the sins
and wrongs and sufferings which idolatry imposed
upon her, and radiant then with all the graces and
peace and joy of our holy faith ! It seems to me
as though the devoted missionaries who have toiled
for this consummation, " but died without the sight,"
would want to rise from the dead to behold this high-
est triumph of Onmipotent grace. " The heart of
Asia" will have been won for Christ, her adorable
Lord and Master ; whom no doubt she will henceforth
serve with an ardor wortliy of those who have had
" much forgiven," while her vast resources will be laid

512 Fkom Boston to Bareilly.

at liis feet, and her part in spreading his glory in the
earth be worthily done. Some one has anticipated
that " day of days " in lines which I quote as I close :

" No longer bestial, but in queenly mold,

Beauteous in needle-work and woven gold,

All Orient riches set on her large brow.

And from her lips sweet song and lioly vow;

Her sandaled foot and life-enkindling hand,

Known by fair traces on her smiling land.

Thus glorious, she will glide through peaceful years,

The joy and wonder of applauding spheres,

And Christ will bear her henceforth honored name

On the broad ensign of his conquering fame ! "

Once more I desire to express the gratitude with
which this work commenced, to the generous friends
to whom we are indebted for the memorable oppor-
tunity of this India visit — out of which, at their sug-
gestion, this book has grown — to enable them to share
wdtli us, in some measure, what we were there privi-
leged to see and enjoy. I conclude with my adoring
acknowledgment of the kind providential care which
was over us by day and night during the long journey
of twenty-seven thousand miles, and which returned
us in safety and health

"From the glad Orient to the still-loved West."

THE END.

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